November  25,  1897.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTIGULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
515 
Pines. — Swcessional  Plants. — Span  or  three-quarter  span-roofed  pits  or 
small  houses  properly  ventilated  are  the  most  suitable  for  small  stock, 
which  at  this  season  often  suffer  irreparable  injury  from  being  kept  too 
close  and  warm,  the  plants  being  drawn  and  weakly,  A  temperature  of 
60°  at  night  and  65°  in  the  daytime  will  keep  all  young  stock  gently 
progressing,  admitting  a  little  air  at  65°  at  the  top  of  the  house,  leaving 
it  on  all  day,  but  not  to  lower  the  temperature  below  that  point ;  and 
when  the  sun  raises  the  temperature  to  75°  a  free  circulation  of  air  should 
be  allowed.  The  bottom  heat  must  be  kept  steady  at  80°.  Avoid  any¬ 
thing  approaching  a  damp  atmosphere ;  moderate  humidity  only  is 
needed  at  this  time  of  year.  Apply  water  when  the  plants  become 
dry,  and  then  afford  a  thorough  supply  of  weak  liquid  manure.  It  is 
essential  that  the  plants  be  kept  well  up  to  the  glass,  and  be  given  plenty 
of  room. 
Suckers. — Those  ready  for  starting  now  should  be  kept  until  March, 
and  if  there  is  likely  to  be  a  scarcity  of  suckers  any  recently  potted  may 
be  retained  in  5-inch  pots,  affording  them  a  light  position  in  a  rather 
moist  pit  with  a  temperature  of  55°  at  night  and  a  slight  bottom  heat, 
keeping  them  rather  dry.  Take  every  opportunity  of  collecting  leaves 
whilst  dry,  Oak  and  Beech  being  the  best,  and  whenever  a  favourable 
opportunity  offers  push  forward  whatever  may  be  necessary  in  the  renew¬ 
ing  or  augmenting  the  permanent  beds,  effecting  this  without  giving  a 
check  to  the  plants. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — A  start  must  be  made  early  in  next  month  to 
have  fruit  ripe  early  in  March.  La  Grosse  Sucr^e"  has  been  for  many 
years,  and  still  remains,  our  standard  early  forcing  variety,  with  some 
plants  of  Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury  and  Royal  Sovereign  (of  late 
years)  introduced  at  the  same  time.  The  plants  have  always  done  best 
with  us  in  a  three-quarter  span-roof  house  facing  south,  there  being  a 
bed  in  front  for  Cucumbers  or  Melons,  a  path  at  the  back,  and  a  narrow 
border  at  the  foot  of  the  wall  for  Tomatoes  now  going  on  towards  fruit¬ 
ing  in  pots  in  another  structure,  they  coming  into  the  Strawberry  house 
soon  after  starting.  The  Strawberry  plants  are  placed  on  an  improvised 
stage,  tier  fashion,  so  as  to  admit  of  ready  access  for  watering  from  the 
path,  and  about  15  inches  from  the  glass.  The  plants  to  be  introduced 
should  have  the  drainage  seen  to,  rectifying  it  if  defective,  making  sure 
that  it  is  free,  removing  the  loose  surface  soil,  and  supplying  a  top-dressing 
of  horse  droppings  rubbed  through  a  i-inch  sieve,  adding  a  good  handful 
of  some  approved  fertiliser,  then  watering  it  with  a  rose  watering  pot,  so 
as  to  bring  into  a  moist  state  and  consolidate  the  material,  otherwise  it 
washes  off  in  watering  the  plants.  Plants  so  treated  push  surface  roots 
freely,  and  the  manurial  elements  are  taken  up  by  them.  Wash  the  pots, 
remove  the  decayed  leaves  only,  and  place  in  position,  taking  care  to  keep 
the  soil  moist,  for  dry  soil  causes  the  loss  of  roots. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Forcing  Asparagus. — No  vegetable  is  more  easily  forced  than  Aspara¬ 
gus,  and  early  dishes  are  invariably  fully  appreciated.  It  is  somewhat 
expensive  to  produce,  because  forcing  many  plants  usually  means  breaking 
up  one  or  more  well  established  beds  to  get  them.  Once  forced  they  are 
of  no  further  value.  Those  who  annually  force  Asparagus  in  the 
ordinary  way  form  a  new  bed  every  season,  and  every  winter  break  up 
the  oldest  or  least  valued  bed  among  those  that  have  been  established 
several  years.  If  Asparagus  is  wanted  for  Christmas  the  start  should  be 
made  at  once.  Heated  pits  with  depth  enough  for  a  hotbed  of  leaves,  or 
leaves  and  manure,  is  the  best  position,  and  failing  this  a  box  frame  on  a 
mild  hotbed  is  preferable  to  all  fire  heat.  The  bottom  heat  must  not  be 
violent.  Prepare  the  leaves  and  manure  in  the  usual  way,  and  put  them 
together  firmly  as  a  partial  preventive  of  overheating.  Cover  with  a 
layer  of  rich  soil,  and  when  it  is  seen  the  heat  is  not  above  65°  the  plants 
may  safely  be  introduced.  These  ought  to  be  carefully  lifted,  and  at 
once  arranged  closely  together  on  the  hotbed,  covering  with  4  inches  of 
good  fine  soil.  A  moist  top  heat  of  60°  to  65°  ought  not  to  be  exceeded, 
hard  forcing,  and  also  poverty  at  the  roots,  leading  to  the  production  of 
weakly  shoots.  In  cold  weather  the  frames  or  pits  may  be  constantly 
matted  over. 
Rhubarb. — Rhubarb  is  now  most  often  forced  in  Mushroom  houses 
and  other  heated  structures.  After  they  have  produced  leafstalks  to 
their  fullest  extent  the  clumps  are  thrown  away,  so  that  in  this  case  again 
young  plants  must  be  constantly  prepared  to  take  the  place  of  the  old 
ones.  When  lifting  clumps  for  forcing  save  a  little  soil  about  them  and 
move  into  a  house  or  pit,  the  temperature  of  which  can  be  kept  at  from 
55°  to  65°.  They  may  be  arranged  together  on  a  mild  hotbed  or  on  a 
solid  bed  of  rich  soil,  in  either  case  banking  over  with  rich  moist  soil. 
Keep  the  clumps  constantly  moist,  allowing  them  to  become  very  dry 
ending  in  the  production  of  weakly  leafstalks.  The  colour  and  flavour  of 
Rhubarb  grown  in  the  dark  is  usually  preferred. 
Seakale. — Strong  one  or  two-year-old  plants  are  the  best  for  lifting 
and  forcing.  These  can  be  partly  cleared  of  coarse  roots,  and  packed 
somewhat  closely  together  in  large  pots  or  deep  boxes  of  rich  soil. 
Enough  to  form  several  successions  may  be  lifted  and  potted  or  boxed  off 
at  one  time,  introducing  them  into  heat  at  intervals  of  a  week  or  ten  days 
between.  If  pots  or  boxes  are  placed  into  ordinary  forcing  houses,  not 
far  from  the  hot-water  pipes,  or  are  arranged  on  hotbeds,  these  must  have 
other  large  pots  or  boxes  inverted  'over  them  to  exclude  the  light.  If 
kept  constantly  moist  at  the  roots  the  crowns  may  be  cut  over  twice,  the 
second  crop  of  shoots  frequently  doing  good  service. 
Protecting  Seakale. — Ordinary  Seakale  is  quite  hardy,  but  the  lily  white 
form  is  not.  All  the  plants  of  this  variety,  popular  because  most  delicately 
flavoured  and  attractive  in  appearance,  required  for  forcing,  ought  to  be 
lifted  now  and  stored  thickly  in  moist  soil  where  they  can  he  protected 
from  frost.  Any  left  in  the  ground  should  have  a  ridge  of  ashes  placed 
over  them,  later  on  banking  soil  over  this,  the  first  by  way  of  protection 
from  frost,  and  the  soil  to  keep  the  growth  blanched  for  use  when  it 
starts  next  spring. 
Endive. — There  ought  to  be  no  further  delay  in  storing  or  providing 
protection  for  the  greater  portion  of  Endive  grown.  After  sustaining 
slight  injury  from  frost  decay  is  rapid,  but  if  uninjured,  the  plants  tied  up 
and  then  moved  into  a  pit,  frame,  or  vinery,  surrounding  the  roots  with 
moist  soil,  they  will  keep  good  for  several  weeks — always  provided 
additional  protection  is  afforded  whenever  necessary.  Endive  will  also 
keep  for  several  weeks  in  sheds  and  other  makeshift  places.  Blanching 
may  be  effected  either  by  tying  up  each  plant  with  raffia,  or  they  may  be 
covered  a  few  at  a  time  with  mats.  Where  there  is  a  Mushroom  house 
available,  this  will  be  found  a  good  place  for  blanching  Endive. 
Horseradish. — When  Horseradish  is  left  in  possession  of  the  same  plot 
of  ground  for  several  j'ears  in  succession  the  quality  of  the  roots  deterio¬ 
rates  greatly.  It  is  best  when  grown  quickly  and  strongly.  Should  the 
weather  continue  comparatively  mild  and  open  fresh  beds  may  be  formed 
now  instead  of  waiting  till  the  spring,  when  so  much  other  important 
work  has  to  be  done.  Clear  an  old  bed  by  trenching  deeply,  saving  all 
the  roots  found.  Prepare  a  fresh  breadth  of  ground  by  trenching,  mixing 
good  solid  manure  with  the  bottom  spit  of  soil  only.  Dibble  in  young 
straight  roots  to  their  full  length  1  foot  apart  each  way.  One  year  later 
abundance  of  very  fine  roots  ought  to  be  available. 
Flowers  for  Bees. 
Do  bee-keepers  study  the  requirements  of  the  bees  by  planting 
suitable  plants,  shrubs,  and  trees,  which  in  their  season  will  yield 
pollen  or  honey,  and  at  the  same  time  beautify  our  gardens  or  land¬ 
scape  ?  I  am  afraid  the  reply  must  more  often  than  otherwise  be  in 
the  negative.  There  are  many  bee-  keepers  who,  if  they  had  the  will, 
have  not  the  opnortunity.  Fortunately  there  are  many  gardeners 
who  are  interested  in  bee-keeping,  some  of  whom  may  have  oppor¬ 
tunities  of  planting,  it  may  be  a  tree  or  shrub,  which  in  its  season 
will  be  of  great  benefit  to  the  bees.  I  was  reminded  of  this  fact 
within  the  past  few  days  on  passing  a  plant  of  Ceanothus  Veitcbianus 
in  full  bloom,  and  which  was  covered  w  th  both  the  hive  and  wild  bee> 
which  were  evidently  obtaining  honey  as  well  as  pollen  from  its 
flowers.  Owing  to  the  fine  weather  experienced  throughout  the 
autumn  there  are  still  many  hardy  flowers  in  the  garden,  which  is 
very  unusual  in  the  dark  days  of  November.  In  addition  to  tne 
plants  mentioned  in  previous  notes  as  useful  to  the  bees,  and  which 
may  be  planted  at  this  season,  may  be  mentioned  the  different  varie¬ 
ties  of  bulbs,  the  earliest  of  which  is  the  Winter  Aconite,  commencing 
to  bloom,  if  the  weather  is  favourable,  early  in  January. 
Tulips  are  very  showy  for  either  beds  or  borders,  and  when  carpeted 
with  a  dwarf-growing  plant,  such  as  Aubrietia,  which,  by  the  way,  is 
a  capital  bee  plant,  they  are  invariably  much  admired,  and  are 
appreciated  by  the  bees  on  account  of  the  pollen  obtained  from  them. 
Many  of  the  bulbs  are  quite  at  home  when  planted  in  the  grass,  where 
they  may  be  allowed  to  remain  undisturbed  for  years.  The  scarlet 
Due  Van  Thol  Tulip  is  a  charming  object  for  this  purpose,  so  are 
Scillas,  Aconites,  and  many  other  bulbs  which  are  of  value  to  the  bees. 
The  grass  must  not,  however,  be  cut  until  the  foliage  of  the  bulbs  has 
died  down. 
The  different  varieties  of  Salix,  or  what  are  commonly  called 
Willows,  must  not  be  omitted  from  the  list,  as  they  yield  abundance  of 
pollen  throughout  the  early  spring  months,  when  it  is  so  necessary  for 
the  well-being  of  the  stocks.  Willows,  too,  have  a  handsome  appear¬ 
ance  when  planted  on  the  maigin  of  a  lake  or  pools  of  water — in  fact, 
they  will  grow  in  any  damp  place  where  no  other  tree  will  exist, 
except  it  may  be  the  Poplar,  which,  however,  is  of  no  use  for  the 
bees. 
The  Palm  Willow  should  be  planted  if  there  is  only  room  for  one 
variety,  as  it  is  the  best,  and  is  also  the  earliest,  commencing  to 
flower  early  in  February  and  continuing  for  several  weeks.  It  pro¬ 
duces  more  pollen  than  any  other  tree  with  which  I  am  acquainted, 
and  it  comes  at  a  season  when  it  is  most  required. 
Bottom  Ventilation  for  Bees. 
Now  that  there  is  no  danger  of  robbing  taking  place,  it  will  be 
advisable  to  open  the  entrance  to  the  hives  their  full  length,  as  this 
will  cause  a  full  circulation  of  air,  and  will  dispel  damp,  which  is  so 
