December  2,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
the  shading  as  often  as  required.  An  occasional  watering  of  clear 
soot  water  or  prepared  liquid  manure  was  given  each  week  after  the  pots 
were  well  filled  with  roots.  The  evergreen  species  should  lie  kept 
rather  dry  during  their  resting  season,  which  should  commence  as 
soon  as  fiowering  is  over.  The  deciduous  kinds  require  drying  gradually 
as  soon  as  they  commence  to  lose  their  foliage  until  they  are  quite  dry 
at  the  roots.  These  require  a  long  and  thorough  rest  after  flowering. 
Calanthes  seem  to  be  more  subject  to  brown  and  white  scale  than  any 
other  pest.  Red  spider  will  sometimes  attack  them  ;  but  owing  to  the 
somewhat  moist  atmosphere  which  should  be  maintained  this  pest  is  well 
kept  under.  All  kinds  should  be  diligently  sought  for  and  destroyed  if 
good  results  are  expected.  The  best  mode  of  propagation,  to  my  know¬ 
ledge,  is  division  of  the  plants  and  preserving  the  smallest  pseudo-bulbs, 
which  are  placed  either  in  pans  or  pots  and  grown  with  the  others.— 
J.  F.  D.,  Yorks. 
Notes  on  Violets. 
The  Violet  has  always  been  a  universal  favourite,  and  deservedly  so, 
for  its  innocent  beauty  and  charming  perfume  claim  the  admiration  and 
appreciation  of  all  To  insure  success  in  the  cultivation  of  Violets  for 
gathering  in  winter,  three  essential  points  may  be  observed.  1,  Plant 
early,  thereby  providing  a  long  season  of  growth  for  the  development 
and  maturing  of  well  ripened  crowns.  2,  Freedom  from  insect  pests, 
or  weak  unsightly  foliage  and  impoverished  crowns  will  be  in  evidence,  in 
lieu  of  dark  green,  glossy  foliage  and  robust  crowns.  3,  Careful  manage¬ 
ment  after  lifting  throughout  the  winter,  especially  in  ventilating  and 
watering. 
I  have  seen  three  methods  of  propagation,  each  giving  good  results. 
By  division,  selecting  soft  crowns  which  have  not  flowered  the  previous 
season,  but  merely  auxiliary  growths  attached  to  the  main  crown  by  a  sub¬ 
terranean  stem,  generally  possessing  at  the  junction  good  feeding  rootlets, 
which  also  issue  from  the  stem.  By  inserting  cuttings  early  in  March 
in  boxes,  using  a  good  rooting  medium,  in  ratio  of  2  to  1  loam  and  leaf 
mould,  with  plenty  of  sand,  placing  in  cool  house  or  frames ;  and  by  layer¬ 
ing  the  first-mentioned  soft  crowns  or  runners  between  the  plants  in  a 
frame  selected  for  propagation.  Place  about  2  inches  of  soil  as  above, 
having  previously  just  loosened  the  existing  soil.  Secure  the  layers  firmly 
with  wire  pegs  or  their  equivalents,  and  water  thoroughly.  Syringe  twice 
daily  in  bright  weather,  and  keep  the  soil  in  a  moist  condition  always. 
Roots  will  soon  be  plentifully  emitted  close  to  the  crown. 
This  latter  method  is,  I  think,  preferable.  The  afternoon  prior 
to  planting  the  plants  should  receive  a  thorough  soaking,  when  if  lifted 
with  care  sufficient  soil  will  adhere  to  the  plant  to  give  it  a  fair  start 
without  a  check.  The  advantage  is  also  seen  at  flowering  time,  better 
colour  and  more  substantial  blossoms  being  the  result. 
The  date  of  planting  will  be  governed  somewhat  by  climatic  influences. 
For  warm  localities  the  first  week  in  April  is  very  suitable,  but  in  colder 
parts  the  plants  may  be  allowed  to  remain  attached  to  the  parents  till 
favourable  weather  prevails.  The  site  selected  for  planting  should  be 
open,  and  protected  if  possible  from  easterly  winds.  A  good  friable  loam, 
in  which  has  been  incorporaited  plenty  of  Alushroom  bed  refuse  or  decom¬ 
posed  leaves  and  manure  used  for  hotbeds,  with  the  addition  of  a  good 
sprinkling  of  soot,  suits  them  well.  When  planting  allow  12  inches 
asunder  each  way,  which  greatly  facilitates  the  successional  hoeings  ; 
water  well,  then  give  a  light  mulch  to  conserve  the  moisture.  The  frequent 
use  of  the  Dutch  hoe  wilt  be  necessary  during  the  growing  season  to  keep 
weeds  in  subjeotion,  as  constant  stirring  the  soil  prevents  undue  evapora¬ 
tion  during  dry  weather. 
During  very  hot  weather  spraying  as  the  sun  leaves  them  is  very- 
beneficial  to  the  plants,  besides  preventing  the  ravages  of  red  spider. 
Should  the  pest  make  its  appearance,  syu’inge  forcibly',  esjiecially'  the  under 
side  of  foliage,  with  a  solution  of  flowers  of  sulphur,  adding  a  little  soft- 
soap  to  aid  adhesion.  After  the  Violets  have  been  planted  from  six  to 
eight  weeks,  give  a  slight  dusting  of  soot,  and  again  at  intervals  of  two  to 
three  weeks  onwards,  interchanging  sometimes  with  guano.  If  possible 
manure  in  showery  weather,  or  water  it  in.  Remove  weakly  and  surplus 
runners  as  they  appear.  If  the  soil  be  very  light  about  the  middle  of 
August  give  the  bed  a  good  treading,  as  this  tends  to  throw  the  strength 
into  the  plants  rather  than  in  the  production  of  runners.  This  is  the 
summer  treatment ;  a  few  more  lines  for  winter  management  shall  follow 
in  due  course. — H.  Turner. 
GARDENERS’  CHARITABLE  AND  PROVIDENT 
INSTITUTIONS. 
The  Gardeners’  Royal  Benevolent  Institution.— 5'ecrefary 
Mr.  G.  .1.  Ingram,  50,  Parliament  Street,  London,  "W.C. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society.  - 
Secretary,  IMr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balham,  London,  S.W. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund. — Secretary,  iMr.  A.  F.  Barron, 
The  Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund,  Cniswick.  W. 
A  Useful  Almanac. — We  have  recently  received  a  copy  of*  Hollo¬ 
way’s  Illustrated  Almanac  for  1898,  and  find  it  contains  much  useful 
information  relating  to  everyday  aifairs.  This  is  beyond  the  ordinary 
calendarial  matter,  while  in  addition  illustrations,  accompanied  by  letter- 
press  explanations  thereto,  are  given  of  several  of  the  sports  of  the  world. 
\yOKK.FoilTHEWEEK.. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Planting  Raspberries.— Suckers  which  issue  from  the  soil  some 
distance  away  from  the  main  stools  form  excellent  plants  for  present 
planting  where  it  is  desired  to  renew  or  extend  the  Raspberry  quarters. 
The  suckers  selected  for  this  purpose  should  possess  some  vigour,  which 
is  best  indicated  by  the  mass  of  fibrous  roots  attached  when  lifting, 
rather  than  the  thickness  of  the  canes. 
The  soil  for  Raspberries  ought  to  bo  well  and  deeply  prepared, 
enriching  it  during  the  operation  with  a  liberal  (piantity  of  rich  farmyard 
manure.  The  possibility  of  making  the  soil  too  rich  is  not  to  be  feared 
in  this  case,  because  it  is  essential  that  the  roots  have  good  feeding  in 
order  that  strong  vigorous  canes  lie  produced,  without  which  profitable 
crops  cannot  be  secured.  Raspberries  form  strong  roots,  which  descend 
deeply,  and  near  the  surface  a  mass  of  fibrous  roots.  The  presence  of 
these  latter  affords  a  good  reason  why  the  ground  previous  to  planting 
must  be  thoroughly  prepared.  The  practice  of  digging  among  the  jflants, 
especially  close  to  the  stems,  is  not  a  good  one  owing  to  the  certainty  of 
destroying  these  roots  wholesale. 
Raspberry  plants  are  usually  arranged  in  lines  or  clumps  of  three 
plants.  In  the  former  method  stout  posts  are  fixed  at  each  end  of  the 
rows,  these  being  5  feet  apart.  Three  lengths  of  wire  may  be  fixed 
along  each  row,  stretching  them  tightly.  If  the  rows  are  long  support 
in  the  middle  also.  The  lowest  wire  may  be  a  foot  from  the  ground,  the 
others  2  feet  asunder  aliove.  The  plants  may  be  placed  15  inches  apart 
in  the  rows.  Clumps  should  be  in  rows  also,  5  feet  or  6  feet  apart.  Each 
clump  may  be  3  feet  from  the  next  one,  three  plants  in  each.  A  stout 
stake  must  be  fixed  in  the  centre,  to  which  the  canes  from  each  plant 
must  be  eventually  trained. 
In  planting  spread  out  the  roots  in  shallow  holes,  and  cover  with  fine 
soil  distributed  upon  them  from  the  stem  outwards,  making  the  whole  firm 
without  injuring  the  roots.  Mulch  the  soil  with  short  manure. 
Previous  to  growth  commencing  in  spring  the  canes  of  all  newly 
planted  Raspberries  must  be  shortened  to  within  a  foot  of  the  soil.  This 
induces  the  buds  at  the  base  to  push  strong  growths,  a  selection  of  which 
is  retained  for  the  following  year  s  fruiting.  Prince  of  Wales, 
Baumforth’s  Seedling,  Superlative,  and  White  Antwerp  are  good  varieties. 
Planting  Bush  Ywiit.— Gooseberries. — This  is  the  best  season  for 
planting  either  small  or  large  bushes,  but  it  is  more  satisfactory  to  plant 
those  not  older  than  two  or  three  years.  It  pays  to  liberally  manure  and 
thoroughly  move  the  soil  in  preparing  the  site,  so  that  the  plants  may 
obtain  a  good  start.  Gooseberries  succeed  very  well  planted  between 
Apple  trees,  if  both  are  planted  at  the  same  time  and  neither  crowded. 
When  planted  in  a  quarter  to  themselves  the  distance,  both  between  the 
rows  and  the  plants,  should  be  6  feet. 
Growing  Gooseberries  against  walls  or  espalier  fences  is  a  method 
which  might  be  more  freely  practised,  inasmuch  as  good  crops  are  secured 
and  the  huds  are  not  so  fre(iuently  picked  out  by  birds  as  from  bush 
plants.  The  branches  should  be  trained  as  upright  cordons.  In 
establishing  these,  shoots  are  trained  horizontally  right  and  left  of  the 
main  stem.  From  these  upright  shoots  are  laid  in,  training  them  straight. 
As  these  produce  side  shoots  the  latter  are  stopped  in  summer  at  the 
third  leaf.  This  induces  the  formation  of  spurs  near  the  stems.  The 
winter  pruning  each  year  consists  in  cutting  back  the  summer  stopped 
shoots  to  within  an  inch  of  their  base. 
Bushes  in  the  open  quarters  are  best  when  plenty  of  young  wood  is 
annually  retained  at  regular  distances  without  crowding.  Six  good  and 
useful  varieties  of  Gooseberries  are  Red  Warrington,  Crown  Bob,  Early 
Sulphur,  Matchless,  Whitesmith,  and  Ritmaston  Green  Gage. 
Bed  and  White  Currants.  —These  fruits  I'equire  identical  treatuient  in 
planting,  training,  and  general  culture.  Soil,  aspect,  and  distances  apart 
may  be  the  same  as  for  Gooseberries.  They  also  succeed  on  walls  and 
espaliers.  The  pruning  must  be  on  one  principle  only,  whether  growing 
the  plants  as  bushes  or  upright  cordons.  The  formation  of  bushes 
consists  in  originating  five  to  seven  main  branches.  Shorten  the  side 
shoots  in  summer,  and  in  winter  spur  them  back  to  the  buds  at  the  base. 
The  main  branches  may  extend  about  a  foot  yearly,  or  a  little  less, 
according  to  the  vigour  displayed— that  is,  the  leading  shoots  should  be 
pruned  back  in  winter  to  the  extent  named,  until  the  height  desirable  is 
reached.  AYhen  the  plants  attain  to  a  free  fruiting  condition  apply 
liberal  mulching  of  manure  annually  over  the  roots.  Good  varieties  of 
Red  and  White  Currants  are  Red  Dutch,  'White  Dutch,  and  Raby  Castle. 
Black  Currants. — Healthy  young  plants  with  strong  shoots  must  be 
selected.  Rather  moist  and  heavy  ground,  though  well  drained  and 
fertile,  is  better  adapted  for  Black  Currants  than  for  Red  and  White. 
The  chief  point  in  the  management  of  bushes  is  to  retain  sufficient  young 
wood  annually  to  furnish  them,  cutting  out  the  old. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherry  House. — The  trees  must  now  be  pruned.  Full-grown  trees, 
properly  attended  to  in  stop])ing  during  growth,  will  require  very  little 
pruning  now.  Any  summer  shoots  that  have  grown  considerably  should 
