640 
JOURNAL  OR  HORTIOULTURR  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
December  2,  1897. 
Sulphate  of  Iron  Solution  for  Vine  Mould  {Vines).  —  We  have  not 
found  the  solution  at  a  strength  of  15  per  cent,  1  lb.  of  green  vitriol 
of  Ij  gallon  of  water,  injure  the  current  year’s  wood.  It  was  not 
applied  in  excessive  amount  or  a  careless  manner.  We  should  not  dress 
closely  peeled  Vines  with  it.  The  bark  prevents  the  solution  penetrating 
the  living  tissues.  It  simply  requires  to  be  applied  as  an  ordinary  winter 
dressing  by  means  of  a  clean  half-worn  painter’s  sash  brush,  coating  all 
parts  of  the  rods  whilst  quite  dormant. 
Botanical  Names  of  Pear  and  Apple  Stocks  (  W.  M.). — The  botanical 
name  of  the  Pear  stock  is  Pyrus  communis,  and  that  of  the  Apple 
P.  Mains  ;  but  you  say  “  commonly  used,”  and  the  botanical  names  of 
those  stocks  nobody  knows,  for  they  arc  seedlings  from  pips  of  Pears 
usually  collected  on  the  Continent  or  the  perry  making  counties  of 
England,  and  have  no  connection  with  the  botanical  name,  being  mere, 
and  very  remote,  varieties.  Similar  remarks  apply  to  Apple  stocks. 
Paradise  stock  are  varietal,  originating  in  different  countries.  The 
Doucin  is  regarded  as  Dutch,  Pomme  de  Paradis  as  French,  and  the 
Droad-leaved  Paradise  and  Nonesuch  Paradise  as  English. 
Eaising  Crab  Stocks  (FoMn^isfer).— Crab  stocks,  so  called,  are  raised 
by  sowing  the  pips  or  seeds  of  Apples  that  are  used  in  cider  making,  the 
seeds  being  separated  from  the  pulp,  washed,  and  dried.  They  should 
be  sown  as  soon  as  they  are  available  and  the  ground  is  in  a  suitable 
state,  as  they  lose  their  vitality  in  a  short  time.  If  sown  broadcast  in 
beds  the  seeds  must  be  thinly  distributed,  not  covering  them  more 
than  an  inch  deep  with  fine  soil;  but  it  is  best  to  sow  in  drills  an 
inch  deep  and  9  inches  asunder.  After  depositing  the  seeds  in  them 
thinly  cover  with  fne  soil,  and  press  close  with  the  back  of  the  spade. 
The  situation  should  be  open.  In  the  autumn  following  the  seedlings 
may  be  transplanted,  placing  them  in  rows  about  fbet  apart,  and 
the  plants  18  inches  asunder  in  the  rows,  where  they  may  remain  until 
fit  to  bud  or  graft.  Those  are  free.  True  Crab  stocks  are  obtained  from 
seeds  of  the  wild  Crab. 
Black  Currant  Buds  Swollen  (21  W.). — Yes,  they  are  infested  with  the 
Black  Currant  bud  mite  (Phytoptus  ribis),  and  we  are  not  surprised  at 
the  bushes  not  finishing  their  crops  well  for  the  Hast  two  seasons,  as 
the  buds  then  affected  would  more  or  less  interfere  with  the  supply  of 
nourishment  to  the  fruit.  On  a  shoot  of  thirteen  buds,  ten  are  swarming 
with  mites,  several  hundreds  in  a  bud,  and  only  three  buds  free  from 
them.  Trenching  is  of  no  use,  though  often  advised,  either  before  or 
after  attack.  The  best  thing  is  to  end  the  mites,  and  the  best  plan  will 
be  to  cut  off  every  swollen  bud  at  once,  place  them  in  a  pail  smeared 
inside  with  paraffin  oil,  and  having  a  fire  handy  turn  each  pailful  of  the 
buds  on  it.  This  practical  method,  followed  by  spraying  the  bushes 
when  dry  with  a  solution  of  soluble  petroleum,  thoujh  tedious,  will  be 
found  far  away  the  best  plan,  as  one-fourth  of  the  buds  may  be  thus  saved 
for  producing  shoots  and  berries.  The  alternative  plan  is  to  cut  the 
bushes  doAvn  and  burn  the  prunings,  then  dress  the  stumps  with  soluble 
petroleum  ;  this  means  the  loss  of  a  crop  of  fruit,  though  in  your  case  it 
must  be  a  small  one.  Cut  some  of  the  worst  bushes  down,  dress  as 
advised,  and  communicate  results  in  due  time. 
Diseased  Malmaison  Carnations  (2?.  Johnson). — The  “grass’’  is  badly 
infested  with  a  fungus,  probably  Puccinia  Arenaria',  which  forms  small 
brown  masses,  often  in  irregularly  concentric  groups  on  the  leaves  of 
many  Caryophyllaceous  plants.  The  masses  on  Malmaison  Carnation 
“  grass  ”  are  larger  than  on  Pinks,  and  are  more  disastrous  to  cultivated 
than  wild  plants,  for  this  fungus  infests  a  number  of  wild  as  well  as 
garden  plants  of  the  class  named  ;  and,  unless  the  fungus  is  very 
abundant  the  host  plant  is  not  materially  damaged  or  hindered  in  its 
growth.  The  spores  ai'e  pale  yellowish  brown  and  slender.  They  are 
abundant,  and  the  mycelium  of  the  fungus  is  unusually  vigorous  in  the 
“grass’  you  sent.  There  is  no  remedy  for  these  internal  parasites, 
except  by  the  removal  and  destruction  of  the]  infested  growths  ;  but  the 
disease  can  be  prevented  by  early  treatment  with  copper,  and  bad  as 
your  plants  are  we  advise  your  spraying  them  with  precipitated  carbonate 
of  copper  in  suspension  at  intervals  of  seven  days  twice,  and  afterwards 
at  fortnightly  or  three  weeks’  intervals.  Use  1  oz.  to  12J  gallons  of 
water,  merely  covering  the  “  grass  ”  each  time  with  a  mist-like  but  even 
water  film  on  both  surfaces. 
Grub  in  Plums  (T.  IE). — The  grub,  according  to  your  description, 
appears  that  of  the  Plum  moth,  Carpocapsa  funebrana,  which  sometimes 
causes  the  fruit  to  drop  prematurely,  thus  spoiling  the  crop.  It  is  very 
difficult  to  give  a  remedy,  or  even  a  preventive,  as  the  moths  come  from 
neglected  orchards,  and  even  wild  species  of  Primus,  depositing  an  egg 
in  due  course  on  each  selected  Plum  whilst  comparatively  young.  Thus, 
unless  all  the  infested  trees  in  your  neighbourhood  are  treated,  there  will 
be  little  use  doing  anything.  However,  as  you  say  your  neighbours  have 
used  a  certain  article  and  failed,  they  may,  perhaps,  be  induced  to  try  the 
following,  which  we  have  found  effectual  in  a  locality  where  the  surround¬ 
ings  were  under  control.  1,  Dress  the  trees  with  a  solution  of  soluble 
petroleum,  following  the  instructions  for  winter  dressing,  for  the  prepared 
article  varies  in  strength  of  different  makers,  and  brush  it  well  into  the 
cracks  of  the  bark  where  the  caterpillar  lies  in  a  cocoon.  This  must  be 
reached  and  the  “  silk  ”  saturated  with  the  soluble  petroleum.  2, 
Remove  all  dead  leaves  and  pieces  of  dead  twigs  and  branches  from  under 
the  trees  and  burn  them,  scattering  the  hot  ashes  on  the  ground  under 
the  trees.  3,  Spray  the  trees  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  fairly  set  with  Paris 
green  paste,  1  oz.  to  15  gallons  of  water,  and  repeat  twice  at  intervals  of  a 
fortnight  or  three  weeks  ;  a  shorter  time  if  wet,  a  longer  period  if  dry 
weather  prevaiL 
Plants  for  Wall  with  North-West  Aspect  (/can7ioe).— Ampelopsis 
Veitchi,  a  close  clinging,  free  growing,  miniature  foliaged  dinger,  with 
leaves  dying  off  with  a  purple  tint  ;  Berberis  Darwini,  an  evergreen 
shrub  with  golden  yellow  racemes  of  flowers,  only  suitable  for  a  low  wall; 
B.  stenophylla,  grows  much  taller,  and  has  very  beautiful  pale  yellow 
racemes  of  flowers  ;  Caprifolium  periclymenum  and  var.  alba  praecox, 
free  growing  Honeysuckles  ;  Corchorus  japonicus,  double  yellow  flowers, 
plant  free  growing ;  Cotoneaster  Simmondsi,  and  B.  microphylla,  evergreen 
shrubs,  bearing  an  abundance  of  scarlet  berries  in  autumn  ;  .Jasminum 
nudiflorum,  producing  yellow  flowers  in  winter.  Ivies  do  better  than 
anything  on  a  north-west  aspect.  Hedera  helix  var.  conglomerata,  pretty 
for  rockwork  ;  cuspidata  minor,  Donerailensis  gracilis,  lucida,  marginata 
aurea,  marginata,  marmorata  variegata,  and  Wilkeana  are  handsome. 
Those,  with  Ampelopsis  Veitchi,  .Tasminum  nudiflorum,  and  the  Honey¬ 
suckles  are  the  most  suitable. 
Gooseberries  in  Pots  as  Cordons  for  Walls  (S.  T.). — The  idea  is 
good,  and  the  method,  if  well  carried  out,  would  no  doubt  give  fair  returns 
under  the  best  culture,  and  in  time  possibly  equalling  your  estimate. 
You  may  either  raise  the  plants  as  you  propose  or  insert  the  cuttings  in 
pots,  and  then  proceed  as  for  Chrysanthemums.  The  plants  might  be 
induced  to  make  2  or  3  feet  growth  in  the  season,  but  you  must  remember 
that  spurs  are  of  more  importance  than  mere  length.  Rots  8  inches  in 
diameter  are  large  enough  the  first  season.  We  have  grown  both  Goose¬ 
berries  and  Currants  in  an  orchard  house,  fruiting  them  in  10-inch  pots, 
but  ive  stopped  them  at  every  foot  in  height  for  spur  formation.  The  success 
of  the  plan  must  depend  entirely  on  the  cultural  skill  and  good  judgment 
by  which  it  may  be  carried  out.  You  had  better  choose  free  upright 
growing  varieties.  You  might  obtain  a  little  fruit  the  second  year,  hut 
nothing  worth  speaking  of.  It  is  a  question  if  the  cordons  w’ould  not  be 
better  formed  by  planting  in  rich  soil  outside  than  potting  them. 
Mr.  Neild’s  Illustrated  'Vine  {II.  S.). — Mr.  Neild  obligingly 
supplies  the  following  information  in  reply  to  your  request  : — The 
Gros  Colman  Vine  that  was  grown  in  a  quarter  of  a  cubic  foot  of  soil, 
and  illustrated  in  the  Journal,  was  propagated  from  a  bud  inserted  in 
March,  1896.  The  Vine  was  6  feet  in  length.  My  object  in  growing  the 
Vine  in  such  a  limited  quantity  of  soil  was  to  confirm  or  otherwise  my 
views  with  regard  to  the  extravagant  size  of  Vine  borders.  I  should  not 
expect  the  Vines  to  produce  so  good  a  crop  next  year,  because  the  large 
crop  had  a  very  exhaustive  effect  upon  them.  Wo  should  have  grown  the 
Vines  another  year,  in  order  to  note  the  result,  had  it  not  been  for  want 
of  a  suitable  house  for  the  purpose.  This  year  and  last  year  they  wmre 
grown  in  a  house  along  with  permanent  Vines,  but  as  there  will  be  a 
number  of  lateral  growths  produced  on  those  Vines  next  year  we 
considered  that  the  Vines  in  boxes  would  be  too  much  shaded  to  afford 
them  a  fair  trial,  or  to  produce  satisfactory  results.  The  other  varieties 
of  Vines  grown  in  small  boxes  were  similar  in  every  w'ay  to  the  one 
referred  to.  Information  on  your  other  question  arrives  too  late  for 
insertion  this  week. 
Plants  for  Unheated  Greenhouses  {Inquirer). — If  you  have  a  border 
for  a  climbing  plant  the  roof  may  be  covered  with  the  common 
Passion  Flower  (Passiflora  coerulea),  which,  hanging  down  in  festoons, 
gives  a  very  pleasing  appearance  and  agreeable  shade  in  summer.  Of 
plants,  Aralia  Sieboldi  and  var.  variegata,  Bambusa  Fortunei  variegata 
and  var.  aurea,  B.  gracilis,  Citrus  trifoliata,  Desfontainia  spinosa,  Daphni- 
phyllum  glaucescens,  Elieagnus  macrophyllus,  Eugenia  ugni  and  var. 
variegata,  Eurya  latifolia  variegata,  Eabiana  imbricata,  Grevillea  rosmari- 
nifolia,  G.  sulphurea,  Laurus  nobilis  (Sweet  Bay),  Ligustrum  sinense 
floribundum,  Olea  fragrans,  Photinia  ovata,  Veronica  Andersoni  and  var. 
variegata.  Yucca  filamentosa,  and  Y.  recurva.  Those  are  all  evergreens, 
and  would  form  a  good  setting  for  any  hardy  flowering  plants  that  might 
be  introduced  in  pots,  such  as  bulbs  in  spring,  Pelargoniums,  Fuchsias, 
Begonias  and  others  in  summer,  and  Chrysanthemums  in  autumn. 
The  Chusan  Palm,  Chamsrops  excelsa,  and  Fortune’s  Palm,-C.  Fortunei, 
are  suitable  for  a  cold  house.  The  great  difficulty  is  the  freezing  of  the 
soil  in  the  pots  during  winter,  and  then  thaw'ing  rapidly.  This  may  be  to 
a  great  extent  overcome  by  keeping  the  soil  rather  dry  and  protecting  the 
pots  in  severe  weather  with  dry  material. 
Blood  Manure  {Leumas). — The  blood  manure  recipe,  to  which  you 
allude,  was  given  to  Dr.  Hogg  by  Sir  Daniel  Cooper,  Bart.,  and  first 
inserted  in  the  “  Horticultural  Directory.’'  The  failure  to  produce  the 
manure  may  have  arisen  from  the  weakness  of  the  acid.  The  muriatic 
acid  (solution  of  hydrochloric  acid  gas  in  water)  of  commerce  usually 
contains  32-6  per  cent,  of  real  hydrochloric  acid,  and  has  a  specific 
gravity  of  1'16,  while  the  saturated  solution  (and  no  doubt  intended  by 
Sir  D.  Cooper)  of  the  gas  has  a  specific  gravity  of  1'21,  and  contains 
about  42*4  per  cent,  of  hydrochloric  acid.  In  addition  to  the  probable 
w'eakness  of  your  muriatic  acid,  blood  four  days  old  is  not  suflBciently 
rancid  ;  it  requires  to  be  kept  until  it  “  begins  to  smell,”  then  the  proto¬ 
sulphate  and  muriatic  acid  being  mixed  and  poured  on  it  the 
result  will  be  an  inodorous  powder.  The  powder  may  be  used  at  the  rate 
of  2  ozs.  per  square  yard  as  a  top-dressing  to  all  kinds  of  plants  in  jiots 
or  borders,  or  crops  either  indoors  or  outdoors.  Perhaps  the  formula  was 
not  given  in  proper  form  before,  and  hence  it  may  be  repeated,  as  you  say 
the  blood  still  remains  in  clots  and  the  remainder  still  liquid.  “Muriatic 
acid,  4  ozs.  ;  protosulphate  of  iron,  4  ozs.  ;  blood,  16  lbs.  As  soon  as 
the  blood  begins  to  smell  strongly  pour  upon  it  the  muriatic  acid  and 
protosulphate  of  iron  previously  mixed,  and  it  will  be  reduced  to  an 
inodorous  powder,  which  will  keep  any  time,  and  is  of  a  fertilising 
strength  equal  to  guano.”  j 
