562 
.rnURN'AL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
December  9,  1897. 
6-inch  pots,  keeping  the  side  growths  continually  disbudded,  unless  a  space 
has  to  be  covered. 
If  jdanted  outside,  as  soon  as  danger  from  frost  is  over  Tomatoes  will 
succeed  well,  and  will  amply  repay  any  trouble  taken.  If  possible  the 
plants  should  be  put  against  walls  facing  the  south.  For  winter  fruiting, 
to  insure  a  good  set,  the  dowers  must  be  artificially  fertilised  every  day 
about  noon.  During  the  dark  days  of  winter  the  Tomato  will  require 
little  water,  allowing  the  pots  to  ring  before  giving  it,  or  seeing,  by 
examination,  the  beds  are  dry.  In  the  case  of  manures,  I  think,  were  less 
sheep  or  cow  manure  water  used,  trusting  to  some  well-proved  fertiliser, 
we  should  hear  less  of  the  dreaded  disease.  In  the  winter  a  temperature 
of  from  48°  to  53°  will  suit  well,  giving  air  on  all  favourable  occasions. 
—Semper. 
Haspberries. 
The  Raspberry  is  one  of  the  commonest  and  most  useful  fruits  we 
have,  yet  I  fear  it  is  often  given  a  place  in  the  garden  where  it  can  never 
receive  proper  attention  ;  indeed,  I  have  seen  Raspberries  so  neglected 
that  it  has  been  difficult  to  perceive  where  the  original  canes  were  planted. 
For  a  good  crop  of  fruit  I  would  recommend  the  following  mode  of 
culture. 
Select  an  open— though  not  necessarily  exposed  — piece  of  ground,  and 
if  in  nature  it  be  somewhat  retentive,  so  much  the  better.  If  possible, 
trench  the  site  3  feet  deep,  adding  a  liberal  quantity  of  farmyard  manure. 
The  best  time  for  planting  is  the  month  of  September,  or  as  soon  as 
the  leaves  turn  yellow,  though  it  may  be  done  at  any  time  from  now 
until  the  end  of  February,  provided  the  weather  be  open.  Choose  a 
good  variety,  such  as  Superlative,  which  has  proved  in  every  way  an 
acquisition.  It  is  robust  in  habit,  without  throwing  up  an  unusual 
number  of  suckers  ;  while  the  fruit  is  large,  handsome,  and  freely  pro¬ 
duced.  Plant  in  rows  5  feet  apart,  the  canes  or  stools  being  2  feet 
asunder,  this  will  allow  room  for  getting  lietween  the  rows  in  inclement 
weather. 
After  planting,  place  iron  uprights  at  equal  distances  along  the  rows, 
and  to  these  attach  four  stout  galvanised  wires,  the  whole  when  finished 
being  5  feet  high.  To  these  wires  tie  the  canes  looselj"  to  allow  for  a 
slight  sinking  of  the  ground.  !4ome  growers  cut  their  young  canes  down 
to  within  a  foot  of  the  ground  the  first  year,  thus  giving  the  stools  time  to 
gain  strength  and  throw  up  three  or  four  strong  canes  for  next  year’s 
fruiting.  This  is  to  be  recommended  when  the  canes  have  been  planted 
late,  but  if  planted  in  September  a  light  crop  may  safely  be  taken  the  first 
year.  After  the  stools  become  established  give  copious  waterings  with 
liquid  manure,  as  Raspberries  are  gross  feeders,  and  soon  exhaust  the 
ground  in  which  they  are  growing. 
Remove  the  bearing  wood  immediately  after  fruiting,  tying-in  the 
young  canes  about  6  inches  apart  along  the  wires,  which  will  give 
neatness  to  the  quarter  and  expose  the  wood  to  the  elements  to  get  well 
matured.  When  the  leaves  fall,  shorten  the  growths  retained  to  the  top 
wire,  removing  every  one  that  is  not  required  with  a  fork.  Let  this  last 
item  be  thoroughly  well  done  each  year,  as  it  is  most  important  to 
maintain  a  neat  and  presentable  appearance,  while  if  allowed  to  remain 
the  suckers  will  rob  the  ground  of  much  useful  food. 
Hoe  the  surface  lightly,  giving  a  good  mulching  of  decayed  manure 
to  remain  over  the  winter.  This  mulching  should  be  taken  off  from  time 
to  time,  and  renewed  with  fresh,  as  it  is  advisable  not  to  dig  between 
Raspberries  at  any  time,  their  rootlets  making  quite  a  network  immediately 
below  the  surface  of  the  soil.  In  the  case  of  light  soils  farmyard  manure 
is  by  far  the  best  to  use,  it  helping  to  retain  moisture.  Should  the  soil, 
however,  be  retentive  a  dressing  of  fish  manure  may  be  used  about  thrice 
in  the  year,  from  which  I  have  seen  excellent  results.  Raspberries  may 
remain  from  eight  to  ten  years  if  properly  fed,  a  new  plantation  being 
made  in  the  meantime  to  take  the  place  of  the  old.— T.  P. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — Foggy,  wet,  and  dull  weather,  alternating  with  windy 
and  bright  intervals,  tax  the  plants  severely,  growth  being  very  unsatis¬ 
factory.  Keep  the  glass  as  clean  as  possilde  both  outside  and  inside,  for 
every  ray  of  sunlight  is  of  consequence.  Use  sweet  warm  soil,  and  not 
very  wet,  for  earthing-up  the  roots,  covering  them  lightly  as  showing  at 
the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks.  A  few  sweetened  horse  droppings 
with  an  occasional  sprinkling  of  soot  spread  on  the  surface  will  attract  the 
roots  and  afford  nourishment  to  the  plants  when  watered.  This  is  prefer¬ 
able  to  liquid  manure,  unless  the  plants  are  growing  in  very  small  beds 
or  confined  to  boxes  or  pots  ;  then  copious  supplies  will  l)e  necessarj'. 
Always  apply  it  weak  and  tepid,  and  not  too  often.  Sufficient  moisture 
will  be  secured  Ity  damping  the  paths  and  walls  in  the  morning  and 
afternoon  of  fine  days ;  but  avoid  an  excess,  and  do  not  supply 
water  to  the  roots  till  the  soil  is  becoming  dry,  then  afford  a  thorough 
supply.  Look  over  the  plants  at  least  once  a  week  for  stopping,  removing 
bad  leaves,  thinning  as  required,  but  neither  stopping  nor  thinning  will 
be  much  needed  ;  yet  these  must  not  be  neglected,  as  crowding  is  one  of 
the  greatest  evils  in  the  growth  of  winter  Cucumbers. 
Mildew  is  sometimes  troublesome  at  this  time  of  year.  It  may  be 
combated  by  dusting  the  affected  parts  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  and  the 
atmosphere  should  be  kept  drier.  A  light  brushing  over  the  hot-water 
pipes  with  a  cream  of  sulphur  and  skim  milk  is  useful  against  mildew, 
red  sjtider,  and  white  fly.  Thrips  and  aphides  are  best  destroyed  by 
fumigation  with  tobacco  paper  or  vapourisation  with  nicotine  essence. 
Tobacco  powder  dusted  on  green  and  black  fly  or  aphides  destroys  them, 
and  fumigation  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings  eradicates  these  pests. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — To  have 
fruit  at  the  earliest  possible  time,  and  without  overtaxing  the  trees  by 
very  hard  forcing,  they  should  be  started  without  loss  of  time  to 
ripen  the  fruit  at  the  end  of  April.  Only  the  very  early  varieties  will 
do  that,  such  as  Alexander,  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice,  Early  Louise,  and 
Early  Leopold  Peaches  ;  Cardinal,  Advance,  and  Flarly  Rivers  Nectarines. 
These  embrace  varieties  with  both  large  and  small  flowers,  so  that  there 
is  no  difficulty  in  securing  pollen  for  cross-fertilisation.  The  trees  do 
admirably  in  a  three-quarters  span-roofed  house  facing  south,  quarter, 
half,  and  full  standard  trees  being  grown  so  as  to  have  the  heads  near  the 
gla-s.  Tomatoes  can  be  grown  against  the  back  wall  for  an  early  supply 
of  fruit,  and  when  the  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees  go  outside  the  house 
will  be  at  liberty  for  plants  in  pots.  The  trees  require  the  same  treat¬ 
ment  as  trees  in  borders. 
Earliest  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. — Trees  started  in  December,  or  at 
an  early  date  in  previous  years,  swell  their  buds  promptly  without 
incitement  from  artificial  heat,  but  those  forced  for  the  first  time  are 
slower  in  starting  into  flower.  To  have  fruit  ripe  in  May,  and  the  trees 
being  of  the  second  early  or  midseason  varieties  and  not  before  early  forced, 
the  house  must  now  be  started.  They  must  not  be  hurried,  but  given 
time  to  advance  steadily  and  develop  a  strong  flower,  perfect  in  all  its 
parts.  The  proper  procedure  is  to  admit  a  little  air  constantly  at  the  top 
of  the  house,  and  above  50°  it  should  be  increased  correspondingly  with 
the  tem]»erature.  Do  not  allow  a  decline  below  50°  in  the  daytime, 
sufficient  artificial  heat  being  emidoyed  for  that  purpose,  and  with  sun 
heat  an  advance  may  be  allowed  to  65°,  closing  for  the  day  before  the 
heat  has  receded  to  below  55°.  A  temperature  of  40°  to  45°  is  ample  at 
night,  or  in  mild  weather  50°. 
When  the  flowers  are  advanced  so  as  to  show  the  anthers  cease  syring¬ 
ing,  but  afford  a  moderate  amount  of  air  moisture  by  damping  the  borders, 
paths,  and  walls  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  on  fine  days.  Avoid  a 
close  moist  atmosphere  at  any  time,  especially  at  night.  Examine  the 
inside  border,  making  sure  that  there  is  no  deficiency  of  moisture.  If  neces¬ 
sary  afford  a  thorough  supply  of  water  or  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees. 
The  surface  soil  is  often  deceptive,  being  kept  moist  by  syringing,  there¬ 
fore  supply  enough  to  moisten  the  soil  through  to  the  drainage,  for 
surface  moistening  does  little  good.  Trees  often  have  weakly  blossoms, 
and  fail  to  set  in  consequence  of  water  being  given  to  the  tops  of  the 
trees  instead  of  to  their  roots.  Remember,  a  sodden  soil  is  just  as  bad, 
or  worse,  than  a  dry  one,  therefore  guard  against  extremes  either  way. 
If  there  is  a  superabundance  of  blossom  buds,  remove  those  on  the  under 
side  of  the  trellis  or  shoots  by  dra  ving  the  hand  the  reverse  way  of  the 
growth.  This  will  materially  assist  the  swelling  of  the  remaining  buds. 
If  there  be  any  trace  of  aphides  fumigate  the  house  on  two  or  three 
consecutive  evenings  Frotect  the  outside  border  with  leaves  and  a  little 
litter,  but  not  so  thick  as  to  heat. 
Second  Forced  Ilouse.—lf  the  trees  are  very  early  varieties,  such  as 
Alexander,  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice,  Early  Louise,  and  Early  Leopold 
Peaches,  Cardinal  and  Advance  Nectarines,  fruit  may  be  had  early 
in  May  by  starting  at  the  new  year  ;  but  if  the  trees  are  such  as 
Hale’s  Flarly,  Dr.  Hogg,  Early  Alfred,  Stirling  Castle,  Royal  George, 
Dymond,  or  Grosse  Mignonne  Peaches,  Early  River's,  Lord  Napier,  and 
Stanwick  Elruge  Nectarines,  the  fruit  will  not  rip  n  until  May  is  well 
advanced  or  early  in  June.  This  must  be  taken  into  consideration  by 
growers.  In  either  case  the  house  must  be  closed  at  once.  Fire  heat  must 
only  be  used  to  exclude  frost,  the  trees  being  sprinkled  occasionally,  or  on 
fine  days  in  the  morning  and  afternoon,  allowing  time  for  them  to  become 
fairly  dry  before  night.  Keeping  the  trees  constantly  dripping  with 
moisture,  especially  at  night,  enfeebles  the  blossoms,  and  is  provocative 
of  wood  bud  rather  than  of  blossom  bud  development.  Do  not  allow  the 
temperature  to  exceed  50"  in  the  daytime  without  full  ventilation.  Supply 
water  or  liquid  manure  to  inside  borders,  and  protect  outside  with  some 
leaves  and  a  little  litter  over  them. 
Succession  Houses.  —'Where  the  roof-lights  are  moveable  it  is  much  the 
best  plan  to  remove  them,  and  expose  the  trees  to  the  elements  for  the 
winter,  the  wood  being  thoroughly  ripe.  This  is  inimical  to  many 
insects,  especially  brown  scale,  and  the  trees  are  insured  rest  and  thorough 
moistening  of  the  border.  Even  the  latest  and  unheated  houses  are  best 
treated  in  that  way,  often  having  the  effect  of  causing  trees  to  retain  their 
buds,  which  cast  them  under  fixed  roofs,  and  the  blossoms  are  generally 
finer  on  trees  that  are  kept  constantly  evaporating  from  the  young  wood 
through  the  time  they  are  at  rest  under  fixed  roofs,  or  when  they  are 
subjected  to  alternating  rests  and  excitements  where  plants  are  grown  in 
the  house.  The  fogs  and  damp  of  winter,  with  the  drenching  rains  and 
snow,  suit  Peaches  and  Nectarines  in  well-drained  soil,  the  trees  being 
invigorated  and  the  soil  enriched.  If  the  houses  have  fixed  roofs, 
ventilate  to  the  fullest  extent  in  all  but  very  severe  weather.  Proceed 
with  the  pruning,  bringing  matters  to  a  close  in  respect  ot  cleansing  the 
house  and  trees  as  soon  as  possible. 
Pines.  -  Young  Stock. — Spare  no  effort  to  keep  growing  jilants  from 
becoming  drawn  and  weakly,  by  giving  all  the  light  possible,  and  not 
pinching  for  room.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  55°  to  60°,  which, 
with  65°  in  the  daytime,  will  keep  all  young  stock  gently  growing, 
