JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  16,  1897. 
584 
■golden  yellow  (grand  in  every  way)  ;  J.  B.  Douvoir,  white,  shaded  lilac 
rose  ;  La  Petite  Marie,  white  ;  Martinmas,  pink  ;  Miss  Davis,  pink  ; 
Piercy’s  Seedling:,  bronzy  yellow,  one  of  the  best  ;  Pr^cocit6,  yellow,  and 
AVhite  St.  Crout%. 
Later  Flowering  Varieties. — Aurore  Boreale,  orange  bronze;  Black 
Douglas,  dark  crimson;  Bob,  crimson  brown;  Cedo  Nulli,  gold; 
Domte  de  Morny,  bright  purple  ;  Florence  Carr,  bronze,  gold 
tips,  a  pretty  flower  ;  Golden  Mdlle.  Marthe,  fine  ;  Kyrle,  crimson  and 
yellow ;  Mdlle.  Elsie  Dordan,  rose  pink  ;  Maid  of  Kent,  white  ;  Miss 
Wheeler,  carmine ;  Nellie  Kainford,  Imff ;  Prince  of  Orange,  orange 
amber  ;  Snowdrop,  a  pretty  white  ;  Soeur  Melaine,  pure  white  ;  William 
Payne,  bronzy  orange,  fine  ;  and  St.  Michael,  rich  golden  yellow. — 
■Chkysantha. 
Cardiff  Chrysanthemum  Society. 
"  On  Wednesday  last  between  forty  and  fifty  members  and  friends  met 
to  celebrate  their  annual  festive  gathering,  the  chair  being  taken  by  Mr. 
F.  G.  Treseder,  who  was  supported  by  Councillor  Gerhold,  Hon. 
Treasurer  ;  and  Mr.  H.  Gillett,  Secretary.  The  usual  toasts  were  given, 
and  the  Chairman,  in  responding  for  “  The  Society,”  stated  the  late  show, 
although  not  quite  so  extensive  in  exhibits,  was  never  surpassed  for 
quality.  Councillor  Gerhold  also  responded,  and  added  a  few  seasonable 
words  of  encouragement  to  the  Committee  and  exhibitors.  The  Secretary 
gave  a  few  statistics,  and  said  there  would  be  a  small  available  balance. 
During  the  year  the  Committee  have  had  twelve  meetings,  and  the  average 
attendance  of  members  had  been  twenty.  The  town  unfortunately  lacks 
a  suitable  hall  for  holding  the  annual  show,  and  besides  they  have  to  pay 
a  heavy  rental  for  the  two  days,  which  makes  a  serious  inroad  on  their 
receipts. 
IMPROVINa  DISEASED  PEAR  TREES. 
Of  the  specimens  submitted  by  “Young  Hand”  some  are  infested  by 
two  and  others  one  species  of  parasitic  pests.  The  twigs  are  infested  in 
this  and  last  year’s  wood  by  brown  rot  fungus  (Sclerotinia  fructigena) 
in  the  mycelial  hyphse  condition.  This  permeates  the  cambium  (formative 
layer  between  the  inner  bark  and  outer  wood)  and  alburnum  (outer  layers 
of  young  wood),  ruptures  the  cortex  (bark),  and  produces  the  first 
fructifying  stage  of  the  parasite  —  namely,  conidia  or  spores.  These 
spores  go  forth,  and  alighting  on  fruit  germinate  under  favouring  condi¬ 
tions  of  air  moisture,  and  push  the  germinal  tube  into  the  tissues, 
giving  rise  ultimately  to  brown  rot — that  is,  the  affected  fruits  become 
brown,  and  afterwards  dense  downy  tufts  appear  on  the  surface,  often 
growing  in  circles,  white  at  first,  then  dingy  red.  In  this  stage  the  fungus 
is  known  as  Monilia  fructigena,  and  has  spoiled  Pears  by  the  bushel. 
Some  of  the  shoots  have  the  current  year’s  growth  destroyed,  and  in 
others  the  base  of  this  year’s  wood  is  swollen  to  twice  its  normal  size,  and 
in  this,  in  the  cambium  and  adjacent  young  wood,  is  seated  the  mycelium. 
This  spreads,  until  it  girdles  the  shoot  or  branch,  causing  its  collapse,  the 
bark  having  a  scarified  appearance,  but  never  exposing  the  wood  as  in 
ordinary  canker.  There  is  also  some  scale  on  the  twigs — the  mussel 
scale,  Mytilaspis  pomorum,  now  in  the  egg  state.  This,  however,  has 
nothing  to  do  with  the  canker. 
The  roots  are  for  the  most  part  dead,  as  might  easily  have  been 
ascertained  by  slicing  off  the  bark  here  and  there.  They  are  Quince 
roots,  and  it  is  not  uncommon  for  these  to  die  in  heavy  soil,  unless  it 
contains  a  large  amount  of  gravel. 
What  can  be  done  to  improve  the  trees  ?  It  may  be  that  the  soil  is 
unsuitable  for  the  Quince.  Many  soils  have  to  be  improved,  and  the  way 
to  make  a  strong  loam  fertile  is  to  first  of  all  drain  it,  get  the  water  out  and 
air  in  to  a  depth  of  not  less  than  3  feet,  having  the  drains  about  5  yards 
apart  ;  then  remove  the  ameliorated  surface  soil  down  to  the  clay,  and 
either  take  this  away  or  burn  it,  mixing  one-third  with  the  soil  removed, 
and  put  the  rest  back  as  ballast  for  drainage,  keeping  the  ameliorated 
soil  on  the  top  as  before  with  the  finer  of  the  burnt  clay  mixed  with  it  as 
stated.  If  the  clay  is  not  burnt,  which  is  strongly  advised,  put  in  a  foot 
in  depth  of  brick  rubbish  from  an  old  building  for  drainage.  It  is  best 
screened  through  a  half-inch  screen,  using  the  rough  for  drainage  and  the 
screenings  for  mixing  in  the  soil,  one-third  not  being  too  much,  and  15  to 
18  inches  depth  of  soil  over  the  drainage  is  deep  enough  for  Pears  on 
the  Quince.  IMake  sure  that  the  border  is  not  a  pit  for  holding  water, 
having  a  drain  to  carry  it  away.  In  the  absence  of  old  building  rubbish, 
loose  gravel  (not  binding)  will  be  found  serviceable. 
The  trees  will  have  to  be  lifted  and  laid  in  whilst  the  border  is  made 
ready.  It  need  not  be  more  than  4  feet  wide,  or  if  a  high  wall,  6  feet. 
Cut  away  all  the  shoots  or  branches  which  are  cankered  all  round  to 
sound  wood,  making  clean  cuts,  and  dress  every  part  with  a  wash  formed 
of  caustic  soda  (98  per  cent,  purity)  and  commercial  potash,  1  oz.  each  to 
1§  gallon  of  water,  applying  with  a  clean  half-worn  painter’s  sash  brush, 
wetting  every  part,  and  working  gently  into  the  cracks  as  a  painter  does 
into  rough  parts  of  woodwork.  lYhen  convenient  the  solution  is  applied 
at  a  temperature  of  130°  to  140°,  but  it  has  been  found  effective  when  cold. 
The  roots  if  matted  must  be  thinned,  dead  parts  removed,  and  the  long 
healthy  roots  shortened.  Replant  carefully,  adding  wood  ashes  and  a 
little  well  decayed  manure,  for  the  Quince  enjoys  humus,  and  mulch  with 
farmyard  manure,  about  an  inch  thick.  Secure  the  branches  to  the  wall, 
and  the  trees  may  be  expected  to  prosper. 
Another  plan  we  have  seen  tried  in  the  open  and  against  walls 
with  Pears  on  the  Quince  on  a  stubborn  clay  was  lifting  the  trees, 
removing  the  good  soil,  providing  a  foot  of  drainage,  and  planting  the  trees 
over  it  with  a  third  of  opening  material  mixed  with  the  top  soil.  The 
trees  were  thus  on  mounds,  ann  they  did  well  assisted  by  summer 
mulchings.  On  the  flat  the  trees,  especially  Louise  Bonne  of  Jersey, 
cankered  in  stem  and  fruits.  On  the  mounds  the  mulching,  watering,  and 
feeding  enabled  them  to  produce  fine  fruit,  while  the  sound,  healthy 
growth  of  the  trees  did  not  seem  favourable  for  the  attacks  of  their 
enemies. — G.  Abbey. 
RASPBERRY  CULTURE. 
In  many  gardens,  both  large  and  small,  it  is  a  frequent  thing  to  find 
the  Raspberry  bed  in  some  out-of-the-way  corner.  This  was  more 
ommonly  the  case  some  years  back  than  it  is  now,  but  still  I  think  this 
luscious  fruit  scarcely  gets  its  due.  The  canes,  often  too  numerous,  are 
twisted  closely  together,  many  fruiting  buds  being  thus  rubbed  off  or 
crushed,  also  no  light  let  into  the  canes,  and  the  worst  of  all  the  grower 
diligently  once  a  year  digs  the  ground  deeply  and  brings  to  the  surface  and 
removes  to  the  refuse  heap  great  quantities  of  roots.  By  this  pernicious 
system  the  old  stools  are  left  standing  high  up  like  islands,  with  no  roots 
save  those  immediately  under  them. 
In  preparation  for  Raspberries  choose  a  fairly  good  piece  of  ground  ;  if 
under  the  shade  of  trees  never  mind,  for  our  humble  friend  the  Raspberry 
naturally  takes  shelter  under  some  growth  more  imposing  than  itself. 
Clear  the  ground,  manure  it,  and  be  sure  no  Raspberries  have  been  ever 
jfianted  there  before,  because  they  in  time  “  grow  sick  of  the  same  soil.” 
Draw  a  straight  line  for  a  row.  At  the  one  end  put  a  stout  post  (3  feet 
3  inches  above  the  ground),  a  similar  one  at  the  other  end,  and  one  or  two, 
according  to  the  length  of  the  row,  of  slighter  dimensions  between.  Run 
along  a  piece  of  galvanised  wire,  such  as  is  used  for  hanging  clothes  on, 
about  1  foot  from  the  ground,  and  another  about  half  a  foot  from  the  top 
of  the  posts  ;  then  plant  single  canes  a  foot  apart  all  along  one  side  of  the 
wire,  passing  each  cane  in  and  out  of  the  wires  for  support  You  may 
have  as  many  rows  as  you  require  by  simply  repeating  this  system.  I 
do  not  think  there  should  be  less  than  4  feet  between  the  rows.  This  is 
the  best  plan  for  growing  this  fruit,  and  all  others  are  very  second-rate. 
Each  bud  has  a  fair  chance  ;  light,  sun,  and  air  are  admitted.  Birds 
have  not  so  good  an  opportunity  of  hiding  as  if  the  canes  were  straggling 
about,  and  old  ones  have  a  habit  of  hiding  instead  of  flying  out  when  the 
boy  or  man  shouts  to  clear  the  garden.  Then  they  cannot  perch  on  them 
as  readily  as  when  bent  into  arches.  The  whole,  too,  looks  neat  and  tidy, 
and  above  all  the  fruit  can  be  gathered  readily  and  no  canes  trodden 
upon. 
I  have  seen  an  enlargement  of  this  plan  as  follows  ;  —A  row  of 
Raspberries  planted  as  I  recommend,  then  some  rows  of  Currant  bushes, 
also  Strawberries,  then  another  row  of  Raspberries  ;  the  posts,  instead  of 
3  feet  3,  being  6  feet  high,  and  a  light  framework  passed  from  post  to 
post,  the  whole  covered  at  the  fruit  season  with  fish  netting.  The  owner 
of  the  garden  told  me  he  more  than  paid  his  expenses  the  first  year,  for 
he  had  a  choice  lot  of  Currants  hanging  very  late,  and  all  Raspberries, 
Strawberries,  and  Currants  free  from  bird  or  boy  depredations.  The 
height  of  the  whole  enabled  a  grown  person  to  go  inside  without  stooping 
and  gather  the  fruit  comfortably. 
The  Raspberry  delights  in  rich  and  damp  soil,  and  no  Raspberries 
I  have  ever  seen  equalled  those  grown  in  the  fens ;  not,  indeed,  on  peaty 
soil,  but  on  those  gardens  in  the  fen  towns  and  villages  which  were 
naturally  built  on  the  islands  in  the  fens  to  which  the  waters  never  or 
only  partially  extended,  and  where  the  subsoil  is  often,  but  not  always, 
gravel ;  but  whatever  the  subsoil,  the  soil  above  is  deep,  damp,  and  rich, 
partaking  something  of  the  fenny  nature  of  the  district  around. — 
Grower. 
Thanksgiving  Day  in  New  York.— For  Thanksgiving  Day 
trade  tempting  arrays  of  fruits  were  made  in  the  markets  and  stores. 
California  Grapes  were  offered  in  large  variety  and  of  excellent 
quality,  and,  handsome  with  their  rich  bloom,  these  looked  as  fresh 
and  crisp  as  when  taken  from  the  Vines  several  weeks  ago.  New  York 
State  Grapes,  of  remarkable  freshness  for  this  season,  were  also 
displayed  in  variety,  and  included  good  Niagaras  and  Delawares.  Lady 
Apples,  some  red  Bananas,  Strawberries  from  California,  Cocoanuts, 
Pineapples,  Italian  and  French  Chestnuts  and  Cranberries  were  all  in 
special  demand.  Other  favourite  fruits  were  Florida  Oranges  and 
Grape  fruits,  choice  varieties  of  Pears,  as  Winter  Seckle  and  Comice, 
and  showy  Apples.  During  one  week  37,633  barrels  of  the  latter  fruit 
were  received  in  this  city  for  the  local  trade,  besides  18.861  barrels  for 
export.  Other  receijits  of  fruits  were  two  cargoes  of  Cocoanuts  from 
Colon  and  Trinidad,  which  comprised  nearly  250,000  of  these  fruits, 
and  four  steamers  brought  60,000  bunches  of  Bananas  from  Jamaica 
and  Central  America.  One  cargo  from  Kingston,  Jamaica,  consisted 
of  10,613  barrels  of  Oranges  and  665  boxes,  besides  other  shipments  of 
Oranges  from  the  same  island.  There  are  now  on  the  way  from  the 
^Mediterranean  to  this  port  6200  barrels  of  Almeria  Grapes,  3000  boxes 
of  Oranges,  and  60,700  boxes  of  Lemons.  Fruits  are  still  coming  from 
the  Pacific  Coast,  and  twenty-one  carloads  were  sold  in  one  week,  of 
which  nineteen  were  Grapes.  Other  western  fruits  received  were 
Winter  Nelis  Pears  from  Oregon,  Easter  Beurre  and  other  late  varieties 
of  Pears  from  California,  a  carload  of  new  crop  Navel  Orange?  from 
the  southern  part  of  the  same  State,  and  attractive  Lemons  of  excellent 
quality. — (“  Garden  and  Forest.”) 
