586 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
December  16,  1897. 
their  growing  season.  It  is  a  preventive  of  rust,  keeping  the  foliage  green 
and  healthy. 
The  plants  after  being  placed  in  their  flowering  pots  should  have 
very  little  water  until  the  end  of  March  when  they  begin  to  grow, 
but  great  care  must  still  be  taken  in  the  watering  of  them  after  this 
month.  Air  ought  to  be  abundant  on  bright  days  through  the  winter 
months.  Heat  should  only  be  used  in  the  Carnation  house  in  the  case  of 
frost  or  excessively  damp  weather.  As  soon  as  the  plants  liegin  to  grow 
they  must  have  stakes  affixed,  and  the  young  shoots  tied  loosely  to  these 
to  prevent  breakage.  All  withered  and  diseased  leaves  should  be  removed, 
as  this  not  only  gives  the  plants  a  clean  appearance  but  keeps  them  healthy, 
for  if  these  leaves  are  allowed  to  remain  the  healthy  ones  soon  become 
affected. 
During  the  flowering  season  bees  do  much  damage  to  the  flowers,  and 
to  prevent  them  tiffany  should  be  placed  over  the  ventilators.  From  the 
above  culture  Carnations  are  seen  at  their  best,  the  plants  being  healthy 
and  the  blooms  all  that  could  be  desired. — East  Lothiak. 
Notes  on  Cucumber, s. 
If  an  early  supply  of  Cucumbers  is  wanted  a  start  should  now  be 
made.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  one  rarely  sees  a  good  house  of  this 
delicious  vegetable  with  wood,  foliage,  and  fruit  in  first-rate  condition  and 
health,  so  a  few  notes  as  to  their  successful  management  will,  I  hope, 
benefit  readers  of  the  “  Domain.”  For  early  use  it  is  not  advisable  to 
begin  before  the  middle  of  December.  Seeds  should  then  be  sown  singly 
in  clean  thumb  pots  in  a  mixture  of  loam  and  leaf  soil  in  equal  parts. 
This  must  be  in  a  moderately  moist  condition,  as  no  water  ought  to  be 
given  until  after  germination  has  taken  place.  The  pots  should  be  filled 
with  the  compost,  and  a  slight  rap  on  the  bench  is  sufficient  to  make  it 
firm  enough.  Cover  the  seeds  slightly,  and  plunge  the  pots  in  brisk 
bottom  heat,  covering  them  with  a  sheet  of  glass  to  prevent  rapid 
evaporation. 
When  the  seedlings  appear  through  the  soil  remove  the  glass,  and 
place  the  pots  on  a  shelf  near  the  roof  in  the  same  house  or  pit.  With 
the  advent  of  the  first  rough  leaf  place  the  young  plants  in  3J-inch  pots, 
using  a  compost  consisting  of  one  part  good  loam  ani  one  part  old 
Mushroom  manure.  This  should  be  previously  placed  in  the  house  they 
are  to  occupy,  in  shallow  boxes,  so  that  it  will  be  thoroughly  warmed  to 
the  temperature  of  the  house.  The  pots  must  be  clean  and  properly 
crocked,  as  it  is  by  observing  these  small  details  that  success  is  obtained. 
Provided  the  soil  is  moderately  moist,  as  well  as  the  balls  of  roots,  no 
water  will  be  needed  for  a  day  or  two.  If  the  young  plants  have  become 
drawn  curl  them  down  in  the  pots,  so  that  the  seed  leaves  are  just  above 
the  surface.  Continue  to  keep  them  near  the  glass,  and  if  the  weather  is 
bright  shade  lightly  until  they  will  bear  the  sun  without  flagging.  A  dew 
over  with  the  syringe  is  beneficial  to  them,  but  great  care  must  be  taken 
at  this  time  of  the  year  or  they  will  damp  off,  espe  daily  in  dull  weather. 
Avoid  sudden  depressions  in  the  temperature  and  cold  draughts,  particularly 
if  the  plants  occupy  a  shelf  near  the  ventilators  of  the  house. 
Under  the  foregoing  treatment  they  will  be  ready  to  plant  out  in  their 
fruiting  quarters  by  the  end  of  February.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  house 
they  are  to  occupy,  as  this  both  of  structure  and  plants  is  the  main  point 
in  Cucumber  growing.  The  compost  for  the  beds  should  consist  of  two 
parts  fresh  fibrous  loam,  one  part  of  horse  droppings,  and  a  good  addition 
of  soot  and  artificial  manure.  Turn  it  all  over  a  few  times  to  insure 
all  being  properly  mixed,  and  wheel  it  into  the  house  several  days  before 
planting,  so  that  it  will  be  well  warmed.  If  the  house  is  span-roofed, 
say  20  feet  by  12  feet,  five  plants  on  each  side  will  be  ample.  The  young 
plants  should  be  carefully  turned  out  and  planted  firmly,  placing  a  stick 
to  each  reaching  to  the  first  wire.  Care  must  be  taken  in  watering  until 
they  are  growing  freely,  when  copious  supplies  will  be  required.  Syringe 
on  clear  days  in  the  afternoon  only,  and  maintain  a  moist  atmosphere  by 
damping  surfaces  a.s  they  become  dry.  Morning  syringing  is  often  the 
cause  of  injury  to  the  foliage  and  should  not  be  resorted  to  except  it  can  be 
done  very  early. 
Cucumbers  delight  in  a  high  temperature  and  plenty  of  light.  Close 
early,  to  raise  the  temperature  of  the  house  to  90^^  or  100°  from  sun  heat 
after  syringing,  and  admit  a  little  air  before  nightfall  as  a  safeguard 
against  condensed  moisture,  increasing  it  the  next  morning  at  75°.  Never 
allow  the  plants  to  receive  a  check,  either  from  want  of  nourishment  or 
by  admitting  air  to  cause  a  draught,  and  lower  the  temperature.  I  find 
the  best  way  of  training  is  to  stop  them  at  the  first  wire,  taking  three 
shoots  to  each  plant,  thus  giving  plenty  of  room  and  light  for  leaf 
development.  The  side  laterals  of  these  three  main  shoots  will  produce 
fruit  in  abundance.  Regular  sprinklings  of  artificial  manure,  or  diluted 
stable  liquid,  wilt  greatly  benefit  the  plants  when  they  are  swelling  their 
fruit,  also  top-dressings  of  good  loam  as  the  roots  appear  on  the  surface. 
Of  varieties,  perhaps  the  least  said  the  better,  as  most  gardeners  have 
their  favourites,  but  for  handsome  fruits  and  good  cropping  I  find  Lockie’s 
Perfection  one  of  the  liest. — Nil  Dbsperandum. 
Sunlight  Year  Book. — With  the  advent  of  the  1898  edition,  this 
publication  enters  its  fourth  year.  The  range  of  subjects  dealt  with  is 
nider  than  has  been  the  case  before,  and  as  most  of  the  information  is 
conveyed  in  a  clear  and  concise  manner,  its  value  will  be  materially 
enhanced  as  a  book  of  everyday  reference.  Comprising  nearly  500  images, 
the  book  is  bound  in  cloth  covers,  and  sold  for  the  price  of  3d.  by  Messrs. 
Lever  Bros.,  Port  Sunlight.  In  recommending  this  vade  mecum,  we  may 
mention  that  it  contains  an  admirably  written  storv  by  Conan  Dovle 
entitled  “  Burger’s  Secret.”  ’ 
HARDY  FRUIT  G.4RDEN. 
Winter  Pruning  Fruit  Trees. — Advantage  ought  to  be  taken  of  every 
favoural)le  opportunity  to  proceed  with  the  winter  pruning  of  fruit  trees^ 
in  the  open  quarters,  on  walls  and  espalier  fences.  Exception  may  be 
made  in  the  case  of  Apricots,  Peaches,  and  Nectarines  on  walls  as  regards 
the  final  pruning  at  the  present  time,  these  trees  being  best  left  until 
closer  upon  the  period  when  the  buds  commence  swelling.  Although, 
however,  the  pruning  and  nailing  or  tying  is  best  deferred  at  present,  yet 
in  cases  where  the  old  bearing  wood  of  the  past  fruit  season  has  not  been 
removed  that  work  may  be  carried  out  at  once.  It  is  desirable,  also, 
when  the  trees  are  trained  on  walls  to  detach  the  l^ranches  and  shoots. 
Secure  them  in  bundles  away  from  the  wall,  thus  preventing  the  premature 
swelling  of  the  buds  until  the  time  for  final  pruning  arrives. 
Pyramid  and  Bush  Trees. — The  first  important  step  to  take  in  the 
winter  pruning  of  these  is  to  look  over  them  for  crowded  and  ill-placed 
branches.  Saw  all  such  out  as  cleanly  as  possible  close  to  the  point  from 
which  they  originate.  The  distance  between  the  main  bearing  branches 
of  pyramid  and  bush  trees  should  not  be  less  than  a  foot.  Pare  the 
edges  of  large  cuts  quite  smoothly  with  a  sharp  knife.  Branches  having 
very  crowded  spurs  must  have  some  removed  or  shortened.  Those  left 
are  much  benefited  by  the  process.  The  summer  growths  require  to  be 
pruned  back  to  one  or  two  buds  on  the  best  ripened  shoots.  Very  sappy 
or  green  shoots  may  be  cut  out  entirely,  also  spray  issuing  from  the  old 
wood  in  any  part  of  the  trees.  The  leading  shoot  of  each  branch,  if 
required  to  make  further  extension,  should  be  shortened  to  one-third 
its  length,  so  that  the  buds  on  the  part  left  may  develop  into  fruit 
buds,  or  throw  out  side  shoots,  which  can  be  induced  by  restrictive 
pruning  to  do  so.  The  upper  bud  must  of  course  be  a  wood  bud,  in  order 
that  the  desired  extension  of  the  branch  may  be  originated  next  season. 
Wall  and  Espalier  Trees. — Horizontal  training  is  the  usual  form  for 
Apples  and  Pears  on  walls  and  trellises.  When  high  walls  have  to  be 
covered  Pears,  Plums,  and  Uherries  are  frequently  grown  fan-shaped, 
main  branches  covering  the  space,  and  allowed  to  extend  as  far  as  possible. 
The  branches  should  not  meet  at  the  points  nearer  than  1  foot.  Fruitful 
trees  cannot  be  obtained  when  crowding  is  allowed.  The  pruning  of 
espalier  branches  consists  in  shortening  the  summer  shoots  to  well-ripened 
buds  at  the  base,  reducing  elongated,  and  thinning  out  rank  spurs.  Dead 
wood  must  be  carefully  cut  out  wherever  met.  The  spurs  on  the  upper 
espalier  branches,  particularly  on  walls,  ought  to  be  kept  within  bounds  ; 
for  to  allow  them  to  project  to  an  undue  extent  over  the  branches  below 
is  to  cause  the  latter  to  suffer  from  a  limited  amount  of  light.  Neglect 
in  this  respect  is  frequently  the  cause  of  trees  becoming  fruitless,  and  the 
proper  balance  between  roots  and  branches  destroyed. 
Fan-shaped  trees  being  furnished  with  a  number  of  main  branches 
may  have  the  foreright  shoots  shortened  and  thinned  out  to  form  fruit 
buds.  Should  any  vacancies  occur  by  decay  or  removals  that  cannot  be 
filled  up  by  regulating  the  permanent  Itranches,  ne  v  shoots  originating 
from  suitable  positions  may  be  laid  in.  This  can  be  very  frequently 
earned  out  with  Plums  and  sweet  Cherries,  as  these  fruits  are  subject  to 
the  wearing  out  or  loss  of  branches,  and  the  system  of  laying  in  young 
shoots  affords  a  ready  means  of  renewal. 
Cordon  Trees. — The  branches  of  these  when  the  trees  are  in  a  flourishing 
and  fruitful  condition  usually  bristle  with  fruit  buds,  and  the  summer 
growths  extending  from  among  the  spurs  are  not,  as  a  rule,  numerous. 
The  branches  of  cordons  are  trained  at  the  proper  distance  apart  from  the 
first,  and  each  branch  receives  its  due  share  of  light  and  air.  With 
cordons  due  attention  must  be  paid  to  shortening  the  summer  shoots  in 
.July,  to  encourage  the  formation  of  fruit  buds, 
The  shoots  thus  dealt  with  in  summer  may  now  be  finally  pruned 
back  to  the  basal  buds,  leaving  two  or  three,  according  to  circumstances, 
for  increasing  the  number  of  fruit  buds.  When  the  groups  of  spurs 
become  elongated  so  that  they  extend  too  far  from  the  main  branch  they 
should  be  gradually  shortened  back  to  some  of  the  lower  placed  buds. 
Thinning  the  spurs  may  also  be  necessary,  in  fact  essential,  where  they 
have  become  crowded. 
The  best  treatment  for  cordons  is  to  give  all  the  necessary  pruning 
at  the  proper  time  annually  from  the  first  formation  of  the  branches  and 
spurs,  thus  necessitating  less  drastic  treatment  than  is  demanded  by 
neglecting  the  trees  for  long  periods.  Ill-placed  spur  growths  and  those 
behind  the  branches,  also  sappy  shoots  breaking  from  the  old  wood,  are 
best  removed  entirely. 
Standard  Trees.  —The  principle  of  winter  pruning  free-growing  standard 
trees  is  that  of  thinning  and  regulating  the  growths  to  allow  the  entrance 
of  light  through  the  trees  when  the  foliage  is  present.  The  best  course 
to  follow  is  to  cut  out  entirely  all  interlacing  branches,  those  growing  too 
closely  together,  and  any  that  spoil  the  outline  of  the  tree.  It  is  indis¬ 
pensable  that  dead  or  exhausted  wood  and  rank  sappy  spray  should  be 
cut  out.  Standard  Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  and  Cherries  may  all  be 
treated  on  these  lines.  Though  the  simplest  of  all  methods  of  pruning  it 
invariably  brings  good  results,  provided  the  trees  have  a  sufficient 
amount  of  space  to  do  their  best. 
