December  16,  1897. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
587 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cherries. — The  house  to  be  employed  for  supplying  ripe  Cherries  from 
the  middle  of  April  onwards  must  now  be  closed.  Be  sparing  of  fire  heat 
at  the  commencement,  not  employing  it  unless  absolutely  necessary  to 
maintain  the  temperature  at  from  35°  to  40°  at  night,  and  40°  to  45°  by 
day,  ventilating  when  the  temperature  is  about  50°  to  5.5°.  Close  the 
house  at  50°.  Syringe  the  trees  early  on  fine  afternoons,  so  as  to  admit 
of  the  buds  becoming  fairly  dry  before  dark.  The  house  will  also  need 
damping  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  of  fine  days,  occasionally  only 
in  dull  weather.  The  border  will  be  sufficiently  moist  for  some  time 
through  the  removal  of  the  roof-lights,  if  not,  it  must  have  water  to  bring 
it  into  a  thoroughly  moist  state.  Trees  in  pots,  if  at  all  dry,  will  require 
repeated  supplies  of  water  to  secure  the  thorough  moistening  of  the  soil 
down  to  the  base  of  the  pots. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — When  the  crowns  commence  swelling  and  the 
trusses  appear,  the  temperature  may  be  advanced  a  few  degrees  by  day, 
but  50°  to  55°  is  sufficiently  high  at  night.  Syringe  the  plants  lightly  in 
the  earlv  part  of  fine  afternoons.  Examine  them  daily,  and  supply  water 
to  all  that  require  it.  Keep  a  sharp  look  out  for  aphides.  They  cluster 
on  the  swelling  crowns,  and  if  any  appear,  vaporise  with  nicotine,  or 
fumigate  with  tobacco  paper  on  two  or  three  consecutive  evenings.  It  is 
very  important  that  the  plants  be  perfectly  clean,  and  fumigation  must  not 
be  practised  when  they  are  in  flower. 
jVnother  batch  of  plants  should  be  placed  in  a  house  from  which  frost 
is  excluded,  removing  the  decayed  leaves,  loosening  the  surface  soil,  and, 
after  removing  the  loose  material,  supplying  a  top-dressing  of  rich 
compost  with  a  little  steamed  bonemeal  added  to  it.  Attend  to  the 
drainage  ;  if  defective  rectify  it,  and  wash  the  pots.  The  plants  may  be 
introduced  during  the  next  three  weeks  to  shelves  in  a  Peach  house 
started  at  the  next  year,  or  into  a  Strawberry  house.  La  Grosse  Sucree, 
Vicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury,  Noble,  and  Royal  Sovereign  are  suitable 
varieties,  also  Keen’s  Seedling  and  Sir  Harry,  when  true. 
Plants  for  starting  later  will  be  quite  safe  in  their  quarters  outdoors 
plunged  in  ashes  to  the  rims  of  the  pots,  and  a  light  covering  of  dry  fern 
or  litter  may  be  given  in  severe  weather,  allowing  to  remain  until  the 
plants"  are  thawed  after  being  hard  frozen,  otherwise  remove  in  mild 
weather.  If  the  plants  are  placed  in  frames  the  lights  should  be  drawn 
off  in  mild  weather,  but  in  this  and  wet  tilt  the  lights  at  the  back  of  the 
frames  so  as  to  throw  off  the  rains,  yet  let  the  plants  have  plenty  of  air. 
They  cannot  be  kept  too  cool,  and  none  should  be  allowed  to  suffer 
through  want  of  water. 
—Earliest  Forced  in  Pofe.  —  When  the  buds  break  the  temperature 
will  need  to  be  increased  to  60°  at  night  in  mild  w'eather,  and  55°  when 
severe,  gradually  increasing  it  so  as  to  have  it  60°  at  night  when  the 
Vines  are  in  leaf,  and  from  65°  to  75°  by  day,  with  moderate  ventilation. 
Sprinkle  the  floors  and  surfaces  of  borders  or  beds  twice  or  thrice  a 
day  in  clear  weather,  avoiding  too  damp  or  too  dry  an  atmosphere. 
Alb ird  liquid  manure  whenever  moisture  is  required  at  the  roots,  always 
supplying  it  at  the  mean  temperature  of  the  house  or  that  of  the 
feruienting  material  about  the  pots.  Disbudding  must  not  be  practised 
until  the  bunches  show  in  the  points  of  the  shoots,  as  any  extra  growth 
goes  towards  increasing  the  activity  of  the  roots. 
[louse  to  Afford.  Ripe  Fruit  in  May.—Uhe  structure  for  this  purpose 
should  be  started  without  delay.  A  bed  of  leaves  and  litter  in  a  state  of 
fermentation  placed  on  the  floor  of  the  house,  turning  a  portion  of  it 
dailv  so  as  to  supply  ammonia  to  the  atmosphere,  saves  fuel,  and 
conduces  to  a  good  break  by  constantly  giving  otf  moisture  and  warmth. 
Outside  Ijorders  should  have  the  needful  protection  from  cold  rains 
and  snow  ;  a  few  inches  thickness  of  dry  leaves,  and  a  little  litter 
over  them,  answer  where  the  Vines  are  planted  inside,  but  where  the 
border  is  all  outside  a  covering  of  warm  litter  is  preferable,  two-thirds  of 
leaves  and  one  of  stable  litter  affording  a  less  violent  heat  than  manure 
alone,  also  more  lasting,  adding  fresh  material  as  necessary.  The  inside 
border  must  be  made  thoroughly  moist  by  applying  water,  or,  in  the  case 
of  w'eakly  Vines,  liquid  manure,  and  never  less  than  the  mean  tempera¬ 
ture  of  the  house.  Avoid,  however,  making  the  soil  very  wet,  for  that 
hinders  root  formation,  and  tends  to  a  soft  growth.  Start  with  a  night 
temperature  of  50°  in  severe  weather,  55°  in  mild  weather,  and  65°  by 
day,  except  the  weather  is  cold,  when  55°  will  be  more  suitable.  This 
slow  work  is  better  than  a  high  forcing  heat,  which  induces  a  weak  growth, 
and  we  do  not  advise  these  temperatures  to  be  exceeded  until  the  growth 
commences.  Depress  young  canes  to  the  horizontal  line,  or  lower,  to 
insure  the  regular  breaking  of  the  buds.  Maintain  a  moist  atmosphere 
by  syringing  occasionally,  iDut  avoid  excessive  moisture  and  keeping  the 
rods  dripping  wet,  which  excites  the  production  of  aerial  roots  from  the 
rods. 
Midseason  Houses. — The  Vines  should  be  pruned  and  at  rest.  If  this 
has  yet  to  be  done  lose  no  time  in  pruning,  cleansing  the  house,  dressing 
the  Vines,  removing  the  loose  soil  from  the  border,  and  supplying  a  top¬ 
dressing  of  fresh  compost.  Where  the  Grapes  are  partially  cut  the 
remainder  may  be  removed  with  a  good  portion  of  wood  attached,  and  if 
the  stems  are  inserted  in  bottles  of  water  the  bunches  will  keep  admirably 
in  a  dry  room  from  which  frost  is  excluded.  Thus  the  Vines  will  be 
liberated  for  pruning  and  the  house  for  cleansing,  repairs,  and  painting. 
A  long  and  complete  rest  invigorates  Vines,  and  early  pruning  effects 
that  better  than  anything  else. 
Late  Houses. — Vines  that  have  the  foliage  all  off  will  only  require 
fire  heat  to  exclude  frost,  but  there  must  not  be  anything  like  a  moist, 
stagnant  atmosphere,  or  the  Grapes  will  speedily  damp  and  decay.  Leaky 
roofs  are  a  chief  cause  of  Grapes  keeping  badly,  and  wide  lai)s  are  not 
much  better,  as  the  wind  drives  the  water  from  them  all  over  the  upper 
side  of  the  berries,  causing  them  to  spot  and  rot.  Grapes  cannot  be  kept 
under  such  circumstances,  and  the  sooner  they  are  cut  and  bottled  the 
better.  A  temperature  of  40°  to  50°  suffices  for  the  thick-skinned  Grapes. 
Muscats  require  a  mean  temperature  of  50°.  The  air  must  be  kept  in 
motion  by  a  gentle  warmth  in  the'  pipes,  and  ventilation  given  whenever 
there  is  a  chance  of  securing  a  change  of  air  without  danger  of  letting  in 
more  moisture  than  expelled. 
Figs.  — Earliest  Forced  in  Pots. — To  force  Figs  successfully  the  trees 
must  be  brought  on  gradually  and  not  subjected  to  too  much  heat  in  the 
early  stages.  This  is  apt  to  occur  with  bottom  heat,  the  heat  above  the 
pots  exceeding  70°  ;  then  the  trees  and  embryo  fruit  come  on  too  rapidly, 
and  often  fall  instead  of  setting.  Until  the  leaves  are  unfolded  the  heat 
at  the  roots  should  not  exceed  70°  at  the  base  of  the  pots,  then  it  may  be 
increased  to  70°  or  80°,  giving  an  atmospheric  temperature  of  70°  to  75°, 
The  temperature  of  the  house  started  at  the  beginning  of  the  month 
should  be  increased  gradually  to  60°  at  night,  65°  by  day  by  artificial 
means,  and  70°  to  75°  with  sun  and  moderate  ventilation,  closing  at  75°. 
In  mild  weather  a  “  chink  ”  of  air  should  be  admitted  early  in  the  day, 
or  between  60°  and  65°,  always  at  the  top  of  the  house,  so  as  to  allow  the 
pent-up  moisture  to  escape  and  insure  a  change  of  air,  to  insure  a 
circulation  in  the  house.  In  cold  w’eather  the  heat  from  the  hot-water 
pipes  will  keep  the  atmosphere  in  motion  and  the  moisture  will  be 
condensed  on  the  glass,  therefore  ventilation  is  not  then  required.  Be 
careful,  however,  not  to  bring  on  the  growth  too  rapidly,  especially  in 
dull  weather,  as  foliage  produced  under  such  conditions  is  not  of  stout 
texture,  but  large  and  thin,  possessing  little  elaborating  power,  and  very 
susceptible  of  external  changes,  often  scorching  and  becoming  infested 
with  red  spider.  Afford  rvater  whenever  necessary',  always  equal  in 
temperature  to  the  mean  of  the  house  or  that  of  the  fermenting  material 
about  the  pots.  Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon  so 
as  to  have  the  foliage  dry  betore  nightfall,  but  avoid  excessive  moisture, 
damping  the  house  only  in  dull  weather  and  only  when  the  paths  and 
walls  become  dry. 
THE  FLOWER  GARDEN. 
Herbaceous  Plants. — When  the  ground  is  fairly  dry,  and  the  weather 
mild,  advantage  may  well  be  taken  of  a  favourable  time  to  lift,  divide, 
and  replant  many  of  the  stronger  growing  hardy  occupants  of  the  mixed 
or  herbaceous  borders  as  may  need  it.  Alt  in  time  become  either  too 
large  for  the  site,  or  present  a  less  healthy  appearance,  owing  to 
having  exhausted  the  stock  of  food  contained  in  the  soil.  The  first  to 
become  crowded  and  exhaust  the  soil  are  Phloxes,  Delphiniums,  Spiraeas, 
Campanulas,  Potentillas,  Hemerocallis,  Asters  (Michaelmas  Daisies), 
Pyrethrums,  notably  P.  uliginosum,  Heleniums,  Chrysanthemums, 
Helianthuses  (Sunflowers),  and  Anemone  jajionica.  About  every  third 
year  these  pay  well  for  lifting,  dividing,  and  as  many  as  are  required 
replanted,  either  in  their  old  stations,  after  some  fresh  soil  and  manure 
have  been  added,  or,  better  still,  in  fresh  quarters.  When  crowded 
and  starved,  the  flowering  season  is  frequently  of  short  duration,  especially 
if  they  ha^e  to  pass  through  a  hot  dry  summer;  whereas,  when  freely 
divided  and  replanted  in  fre.sh  rich  soil,  they  are  much  less  affected 
by  drought,  and  in  any  case  the  quality  of  the  flowers  is  superior.  Plung¬ 
ing  forks,  and  in  some  cases  ordinary  digging  forks,  are  much  the  best  for 
dividing  strong  clumps,  and  when  replanting  the  divisions  take  good  care 
to  well  l)ury  and  firmly  fix  the  soil  about  the  roots,  without,  however, 
unduly  lowering  the  hearts  of  the  plants.  Less  vigoious  jdants,  and 
w'hich  are  too  numerous  to  name  here,  may  well  remain  undisturbed  for 
a  much  longer  period,  or  say  double  the  time  of  the  strong  growers,  and 
these  require  to  be  more  carefully  handled. 
Re-arrantjing  Herbaceous  Plants.  —  Not  unfrequently  old,  and,  it  may 
be,  somewhat  neglected  mixed  borders,  would  be  greatly  improved  by 
being  re-arranged,  and  on  the  whole  the  present  time  is,  weather 
permitting,  as  suitable  as  any  for  this  important  work.  It  is  true  they  are 
more  often  taken  in  hand  in  the  spring,  but  in  most  gardens  there  is  then 
usually  much  other  work  to  be  attended  to,  and  besides  this  also  greatly 
interferes  with  the  display  made  by  early-flowering  bulbous  plants. 
Old  clumps  of  the  latter  are  in  many  instances  now  rooting  freely,  and 
at  this  stage  of  growth  may  be  lifted,  divided,  and  replanted  without 
detriment  to  their  flowering  either  during  the  next  or  following  spring. 
Supposing  it  is  decided  to  re  model  a  border,  the  first  proceeding 
should  be  to  well  scrape  back  the  loose  gravel  on  the  walk  near  at 
hand  (and  such  are  very  general),  and  on  this  set  the  clumps  ot  plants 
and  bulbs,  according  as  these  are  carefully  searched  for  and  forked  out  of 
the  ground.  If  the  nights  are  somewhat  frosty,  or  the  weather  unsettled, 
too  great  a  length  of  border  should  not  be  broken  up  at  one  time,  or  not 
more  than  can  be  trenched  and  replanted  in  one  day.  In  most  cases 
double  digging  or  bastard  trenching  only  ought  to  be  resorted  to, 
abundance  of  half-decayed  manure  being  mixed  principally  with  the  fop 
spit.  There  is  no  necessity  or  wisdom  in  returning  the  plants  to  the 
borders  in  formal  lines,  the  better  plan  being  to  plant  them  somewhat 
irregularly,  due  regard  being  paid  to  the  respective  heights  of  the  species 
and  varieties,  care  also  being  taken  to  well  mix  them  so  that  the  early 
flowering  kinds  may  alternate  with  those  much  later  in  coming  into 
flower.  Nor  is  it  advisable  to  plant  very  thickly,  there  being  a 
considerable  number  of  half-hardy  plants  that  room  should  be  found  for 
in  herbaceous  or  mixed  borders.  All,  whether  bulbous  or  otherwise,  to 
be  correctly  labelled,  the  simplest  and  best  kind  of  label  being  made  from 
1  foot  lengths  of  sound  Hazel  rods,  these  being  pointed  at  one  end,  and 
faced  and  painted  white  at  the  other.  Mulch  with  manure  or  leaf  soil 
after  the  border  is  planted. 
Manuring  and  Mulching  Borders. — The  least  that  can  be  done  to  an 
herbaceous  border  is  to  thoroughly  clean  and  mulch  it  at  this  time  of 
