608 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
December  28,  1897. 
SERVING  THE  KITCHEN. 
1  CONSIDER  that  this  subject  embraces  one  of  the  most  important 
connected  phases  of  a  gardener’s  work.  He  usually  devotes  his  energies, 
and  employs  all  the  appliances  at  his  command,  to  produce  a  supply  of 
edible  fruits  and  vegetables  for  his  employer’s  use.  But  when  they  are 
produced,  no  matter  how  excellent  the  quality  may  be,  the  grower’s  part 
is  not  finished  until  such  produce  has  been  sent  to  the  kitchen  in  the  best 
possible  manner,  and  it  is  with  this  aspect  of  the  question  that  I  purpose 
to  deal,  and  I  shall  make  the  notes  apply  to  a  medium  sized  establishment, 
where  both  luncheons  and  late  dinners  are  the  rule,  and  where  from  eight 
to  a  dozen  servants  are  kept.  Such  a  place  takes  a  fair  amount  of  time 
and  close  attention,  let  alone  patience,  to  supply  the  kitchen  properly. 
In  no  two  places  are  the  arrangements  for  serving  the  kitchen  exactly 
alike.  In  some  this  duty  is  relegated  to  an  old,  decrepit  labourer  who 
knows  how  well  enough,  but  is  past  the  work.  In  others  the  boy  just 
from  school  is  sent  to  the  work,  while  in  a  third  the  garden  woman  does 
the  work,  and  this  I  consider  an  objectionable  arrangement.  In  my 
opinion  one  of  the  young  men,  who  fully  intends  following  gardening  as  a 
])rofession,  ought  to  be  made  responsible  for  this  department.  Some 
gardeners  may  dissent  from  this  view,  but  it  is  an  excellent  course  of 
training  for  a  young  man  for  at  least  one  year.  It  gives  him  a  better 
idea  of  the  wants  ot  an  establishment  than  he  could  otherwise  obtain, 
and  if  he  does  not  take  the  utmost  care  he  will  soon  find  what  a  well- 
seasoned  tongue  a  cook  possesses. 
It  does  not  signify  what  the  arrangements  are,  if  the  person  who  has 
the  work  to  do  is  not  well  supported  by  his  chief,  and  every  facility 
provided  for  the  proper  management  of  the  work.  In  the  first  place  the 
man  in  charge  of  the  kitchen  should  go  about  his  business  in  a  straight¬ 
forward  manner,  and  always  be  as  tidy  in  his  appearance  as  circumstances 
will  permit.  I  know  it  is  not  the  cleanest  part  of  a  gardener’s  duty 
gathering  vegetables,  neither  does  gathering  Gooseberries  improve  a  good 
suit  of  clothes.  At  the  same  time  it  is  essential  that  the  young  man 
should  not  be  a  fop,  for  there  is  a  happy  medium. 
An  adequate  supply  of  suitable  baskets  ought  to  be  at  command,  those 
made  of  strong  white  willow  being  the  most  serviceable  for  carrying  the 
cleanest  vegetables  to  the  kitchen.  What  are  termed  “skeps”  are  the 
best  for  gathering  vegetables  from  the  garden  and  for  carrying  Potatoes. 
Small  round  baskets  are  ever  in  request,  and  plenty  should  be  provided, 
and  when  finished  with  for  the  day  should  always  be  put  in  their  proper 
places,  so  that  if  one  were  wanted,  even  in  the  dark,  it  could  be  found. 
A  shallow  tub  should  be  provided  for  the  washing  of  Carrots  and  other 
roots,  and  it  will  be  found  a  great  convenience  if  a  shallow  receptacle  is 
at  disposal  in  which  to  place  Cauliflowers  for  their  preservation  when  the 
supply  is  larger  than  the  demand.  They  can  be  cut  with  a  long  stem, 
and  it  placed  in  about  2  inches  of  water  will  keep  perfectly  fresh  for 
several  days,  and  possibly  prevent  an  awkward  break  in  the  supply. 
In  many  establishments  it  is  no  light  task  to  serve  the  kitchen  owing 
to  the  great  distance  of  the  residence  from  the  gardens,  and  entails  no 
small  amount  of  labour.  In  such  places  the  man  needs  to  have  all  his 
wits  about  him,  or  he  will  cause  himself  a  great  amount  of  endless  trouble 
and  waste  a  lot  of  valuable  time.  In  well  managed  houses  he  will  always 
know  what  to  take  with  him  on  the  first  journey  each  morning,  and  if 
the  cooks  are  worthy  of  their  position  the  work  can  be  very  much 
simplified.  For  instance,  during  the  small  fruit  season  Gooseberries  and 
Currants  can  generally  be  ordered  the  day  before  they  are  required. 
In  the  store  rooms,  or  other  places  that  are  provided  in  connection 
with  every  kitchen,  receptacles  should  be  provided  wherein  to  place 
Potatoes  and  other  vegetables  so  as  to  avoid  confusion.  By  having  such 
conveniences  the  man  knows  where  to  place  his  vegetables  and  the  cook 
to  find  them.  It  will  generally  be  found  best  to  keep  a  small  stock  of 
Turnips  and  Carrots  ready  for  the  cook,  but  never  allow  any  vegetables  to 
remain  when  they  have  become  stale.  A  drawer  fitted  with  compart¬ 
ments  should  also  be  provided  in  which  to  keep  dried  herbs,  such  as 
Sage,  Thyme,  Mint,  Tarragon,  Marjoram,  and  any  others  that  are  in 
stock.  A  good  supply  must  always  be  in  reserve  carefully  labelled 
and  ready  for  use.  When  small  culinary  fruits  and  Green  Peas  are  in 
season  it  will  be  a  busy  time,  especially  on  a  Saturday,  for  on  that  day 
a  double  supply  should  always  be  taken  in  ready  for  Sunday  use,  I  have 
frequently  commenced  at  six  o’clock  on  a  Saturday  morning  during  the 
season  above  referred  to,  and  have  been  kept  going  as  hard  as  possible 
until  twelve  o’clock. 
Now  a  few  words  regarding  size  of  vegetables  for  the  table.  Some 
people  appear  to  have  an  idea  the  larger  the  better  ;  that  is  a  mistake. 
1  or  instance,  of  what  use  are  the  big  Onions  we  see  and  hear  so  much 
about  for  general  purposes,  when  they  weigh  from  2  to  3  lbs.  each? 
True,  they  would  do  for  Onion  porridge,  but  if  you  took  such  in  to  some 
cooks  you  would  find  perhaps  4  ozs.  of  one  used  and  the  remainder 
thrown  away.  A  ith  Cabbages  medium  sized  hearts  are  far  more 
preferable  than  very  large  ones.  My  opinion  regarding  Cauliflowers  is 
that  one  about  6  inches  in  diameter,  as  white  as  snow,  is  better  than  one 
twice  the  size,  and  is  also  much  more  easily  protected  from  sunlight,  rain, 
and  frost.  In  the  case  of  Savoys  the  small  compact  heads  of  the  Dwarf 
Ulm  type  are  more  useful  than  the  flabby  Drumhead  section,  but  I  have 
found  D  warf  Ulm  is  no  use  for  market  work.  If  we  would  have  the  best 
quality  in  vegetables  we  must  have  medium  size  ;  hence  the  lesson. 
Never  let  the  kitchen  authorities  have  the  slightest  idea  of  any  one 
thing  that  is  in  season  if  you  can  possibly  help  it,  or  you  will  be  asked  for 
it  every  day,  whereas  if  you  have  plenty  you  can  rest  perfectly  assured 
you  will  not  be  very  much  troubled.  I  well  remember  one  place  of  which 
I  look  charge.  There  was  only  a  small  quantity  of  Artichokes  in  the 
garden,  and  I  was  asked  for  them  two  or  three  times  each  week,  The  next 
season  I  remedied  that  fault  and  provided  plenty,  but  very  few  were 
then  required.  Always  aim  at  providing  plenty  for  each  day’s  supply, 
but  do  not  allow  any  waste  if  it  can  possibly  be  avoided. 
One  frequent  cause  of  friction  is  taking  vegetables,  such  as  Peas, 
French  and  Runner  Beans,  into  the  kitchen  too  old.  This  is  a  great 
mistake,  though  I  know  it  is  somewhat  difficult  to  always  prevent  a  pod 
of  Peas  slightly  too  mature  from  finding  its  way  into  the  basket.  The 
test  for  Runner  and  French  Beans  is  a  very  simple  one.  If  a  pod  will 
snap  in  two  without  leaving  any  string  it  will  be  tender  despite  what 
anyone  may  say  to  the  contrary. 
In  some  establishments  the  kitchen  garden  is  too  small  for  the  require¬ 
ments  of  the  family  and  it  falls  very  heavily  on  the  gardener  in  charge  ; 
but  if  he  has  any  natural  resources  it  will  bring  them  to  the  front,  and 
he  will  endeavour  to  supply  his  employer’s  tables,  with  an  occasional  dish 
for  the  servant'}.  In  many  cases  that  cannot  be  accomplished  every  day, 
and  here  is  an  opportunity  for  the  man  whose  duty'  it  is  to  serve  the 
kitchen.  If  his  heart  and  mind  are  in  his  work  he  can  save  his  chief  a 
large  amount  of  anxiety  by  noting  how  the  supplies  are  holding  out.  If 
there  are  plenty  then  accjuaint  the  cook  and  they  can  be  used  in  the 
servant’s  hall,  and  if  supplies  are  falling  short  acquaint  the  chief.  Take 
Potatoes,  for  instance.  The  full  supply  of  these  can  seldom  be  produced 
in  the  kitchen  garden  proper,  and  in  some  cases  have  to  be  bought  in. 
Of  course,  this  is  part  of  the  gardener’s  duty,  and  the  man  in  charge  of 
the  kitchen  department  should  always  remind  his  chief  before  the  stock 
is  too  low. 
A  few  remarks  on  packing  vegetables  for  the  family  when  in  town 
may  perhaps  be  serviceable  to  some,  as  this  is  a  duty  that  all  gardeners 
have  to  perform.  Always  commence  with  the  heaviest  and  bulkiest 
vegetables,  placing  these  at  the  bottom  of  the  hamper.  If  the  packing 
is  done  during  the  Pea  season  these  may  be  placed  in  amongst  the  other 
vegetables,  thus  filling  up  all  crevices.  It  is  well  to  remember  that  the 
firmer  all  such  things  are  packed  the  better  they  will  travel.  It  will  also 
be  advisable  to  keep  a  list  of  all  things  sent  to  town  for  family  use,  with 
quantities  on  each  date,  as  in  certain  cases  it  is  apt  to  prove  a  valuable 
safeguard. 
1  have  endeavoured  to  place  a  few  hints  before  you  that  I  have  found 
useful  in  practice.  It  is  impossible  that  every  gardener  can  be  in 
charge  of  such  an  establishment  that  I  have  essayed  to  sketch.  Many 
may  be  in  larger,  where  the  requirements  are  far  more  extensive ;  but,  as 
in  every  other  walk  of  life,  the  gardener  wherever  his  lot  is  cast  must  of 
necessity  adapt  himself  to  circumstances,  and  if  he  happens  to  be  only 
single-handed  he  will  find  the  small  things  as  needful  in  their  several 
places  as  the  great  ones.  To  the  young  man  who  is  just  entering  upon  a 
gardening  career  I  would  say.  By  all  means  serve  the  kitchen  if  you 
possibly  can.  There  will  ))e  hints  and  information  to  be  gathered  that 
will  be  of  the  utmost  value  in  after  life.  Note  down  each  day  what 
has  been  supplied,  and  go  about  your  work  with  a  will  that  would 
impress  even  a  stranger  that  you  were  in  earnest.  I  think  if  you  do 
this  you  will  not  remain  on  the  bottom  rung  of  life’s  ladder,  though 
perhaps  circumstances  will  prevent  you  climbing  as  high  as  you  would 
desire.  Nevertheless,  ever  bear  in  mind  it  is  the  strict  attention  to 
trifles  that  ultimately  achieves  success. — (A  paper  read  by  Mr.  .J.  WlLKlx- 
SON  at  the  Hessle  Gardeners  Mutual  Improvement  Society,) 
SUDBROOKE  HOLME. 
This  is  the  winter  home  of  C.  C.  Sibthorp,  Esq.,  a  gentleman  whose 
generosity  is  well  known  and  appreciated  by  the  inhabitants  of  Lincoln 
and  the  surrounding  villages,  who  have  the  privilege  of  visiting  the  well- 
kept  grounds  during  the  summer  time.  The  charming  park  contains 
many  fine  specimen  trees,  and  is  surrounded  by  woods  and  game 
preserves.  In  one  part  is  a  large  ornamental  lake,  to  which  the  public 
are  admitted  free  in  frosty  weather  for  skating.  That  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Sibthorp  study  the  interest  of  their  employes  is  proved  by  the  substantial 
and  convenient  residences  on  the  estate  for  their  head  servants,  and  their 
universal  kindness  to  all. 
Within  recent  years  the  pleasure  grounds  have  been  greatly  improved 
by  introducing  a  choice  collection  of  shrubs,  both  evergreen  and  deciduous. 
Among  the  latter  Acers,  Frunus,  and  Elders  in  variety  have  been 
arranged  to  produce  effect,  and  the  colours  to  harmonise  with  other  plants 
and  trees.  There  are  an  extensive  Italian  garden,  Alpine  rockeries, 
long  borders  of  herbaceous  plants,  with  a  hardy  fernery  beneath  the 
shade  of  magnificent  specimens  of  Weeping  Elm  and  Weeping  Beech 
trees,  all  of  which  are  much  admired  when  in  their  season  of  beauty. 
The  kitchen  garden,  of  11  or  12  acres,  is  well  cropped  with  winter 
vegetables.  Fruit,  too,  is  cultivated  extensively.  Apricots,  Peaches, 
Nectarines,  Cherries,  Plums,  and  Pears  are  grown  on  the  walls,  and  a 
neat  system  of  training  is  adopted  by  securing  all  the  main  branches  to 
nails  with  thin  shoots  of  ^Yillow  ;  the  nail  is  driven  into  the  wall  where 
required,  the  Willow  turned  once  round  the  nail,  and  the  ends  brought 
round  to  the  front  of  the  branch  and  tied.  The  ordinary  birch  broom  is 
here  substituted  by  one  home-made  of  the  Snowberry  Tree  (Symphori- 
carpus  racemosa),  which  at  this  time  of  the  year  is  cut  and  stored  in  a 
dry  shed,  and  in  wet  weather  the  men  arrange  the  pieces  in  about 
18-inch  lengths,  and  they  are  bound  round  tightly  with  green  Willow 
shoots,  and  put  away  in  bundles.  They  are  said  to  wear  better  and  last 
longer  than  Birch,  and  have  the  advantage  of  being  easily  made  from 
material  that  can  generally  be  got  in  abundance. 
Mushrooms  have  been  successfully  grown  in  a  rather  novel  manner 
