610 
JOURh^AL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
Di’Cfiufiti  23,  18li7, 
description  should  be  raised  and  grown  jireparatory  to  their  removal  to 
the  fiower  beds. 
The  reserve  garden  is  the  proper  place  for  raising  annuals  for  either 
spring  or  summer  flowering.  Asters,  Stocks,  Zinnias,  and  ^larigolds  ought 
to  be  pricked  out  here  for  hardening  before  being  finally  moved  to  their 
blooming  quarters.  It  is  useful  for  propagating  Pinks,  Carnations,  and 
a  host  of  other  perennials.  Roses  may  be  budded,  shrubs  layered,  new 
varieties  of  plants  tested,  and  cuttings  of  ])lants  that  will  root  in  the 
oj)en  air  inserted. 
It  is  not  in  itself  a  thing  of  beauty,  but  provides  the  means  of 
beautifying  the  flower  garden  and  shrubbery.  It  should  be  laid  out 
in  beds  of  convenient  lengths,  and  from  4  to  5  feet  wide,  divided  by 
walks  cut  with  a  spade  about  1  foot  to  18  inches  wide.  The  soil  must 
be  varied  to  suit  the  different  species  of  plants  therein.  It  is  obvious  the 
ground  must  have  the  highest  culture  to  grow  the  plants  to  perfection,  and 
attention  to  the  w'ants  of  each  individual  class  of  plants  must  be  bestowed. 
When  the  reserve  garden  is  of  sufficient  dimensions  plants  for  the  sup]ily 
of  cut  flowers  could  be  grown  here,  so  that  the  beauty  of  the  flower  beds 
is  not  marred  by  frequent  cutting.  The  reserve  garden  is  to  the  flower 
garden  what  the  greenhouse  is  to  the  conservatory,  and  no  well  ordered 
garden  is  complete  without  one.— E,  ,1.  B. 
ERUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — As  these  like  light,  heat,  and  moisture,  the  glass  should 
be  kept  clean,  both  inside  and  outside.  Add  a  little  soil  over  the  roots  as 
they  protrude  through  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks,  using  it  sweet 
and  warmed,  and  moderately  moist.  A  few  stveetened  horse  droppings 
sprinkled  on  the  surface  of  the  bed  occasionally  will  attract  the  roots, 
and  supply  them  with  nourishment.  Supply  water  only  when  the  soil  is 
getting  dry,  then  afford  sufficient  to  moisten  the  soil  through  to  the 
drainage.  Plants  in  borders  of  small  area,  pots,  and  boxes  should  have 
liquid  manure,  always  tepid,  and  not  too  strong  or  too  often.  Damping 
the  paths  and  sides  of  the  bed  and  house  will  be  sufficient  to  maintain  a 
genial  atmosphere  if  it  be  attended  to  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  of 
fine  days.  Remove  surplus  fruits  as  they  appear,  also  tendrils  and  male 
blossoms,  unless  they  are  required  for  impregnating  the  fruit-bearing 
flowers. 
Stopping  and  thinning  the  growths  will  not  be  much  needed,  but 
it  must  not  be  neglected,  as  crowding  is  the  precursor  of  evil  conse(piences. 
Tie  in  the  growths  as  necessar3'.  Do  not  overcrop  the  plants,  and 
be  careful  not  to  allow  the  fruit  to  remain  longer  on  them  than  to  attain 
a  useable  size  ;  they  keep  fresh  several  days  after  being  cut  if  the 
heels  are  inserted  in  a  saucer  of  water  in  a  cool  place,  but  safe  from 
frost.  Red  spider  and  white  fly  are  sometimes  troublesome,  especially  the 
former,  in  structures  that  are  badly  heated,  and  thus  necessitating  sharp 
firing.  Sponging  the  infested  leaves  with  a  solution  of  softsoap,  2  ozs.  to 
a  gallon  of  water,  is  a  sure,  and,  all  things  considered,  the  safest  remedy 
for  red  spider  if  taken  in  time  ;  while  a  little  flowers  of  sulphur  on  the 
hot-water  pipes  checks  it,  and  destroys  white  fly.  Mildew  must  be  kept 
under  by  dusting  with  flowers  of  sulphur,  or  if  the  hot-water  pipes  are 
brushed  over  with  a  mixture  of  sulphur  and  skim  milk  it  will  succumb. 
Green  and  black  aphides  may  be  destroyed  by  dusting  with  tobacco 
powder,  vaporisation  with  nicotine  essence,  or  fumigation  with  good 
tobacco  paper,  but  being  careful  not  to  give  an  overdose,  as  the  foliage  is 
at  all  times,  and  especially  at  this  time  of  year,  soon  injured. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines.  —Earliest  House.  —  The  trees  must  not  be 
syringed  after  the  blossoms  show  colour,  but  a  moderately  moist  atmosphere 
should  be  maintained  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning 
and  in  the  early  part  of  the  afternoon  of  fine  days,  ilaintain  the  tempe¬ 
rature  at  50°  to  55°  by  day,  with  an  advance  from  sun  heat  to  60°  to  65°, 
but  not  without  ventilation  at  top  and  in  front,  50°  being  sufficiently  high 
for  the  night.  If  the  weather  is  cold  and  sharp  the  temperature  may 
fall  to  45°,  or  during  severe  frosts  to  40°  at  night,  which  is  more  advan¬ 
tageous  than  a  higher  and  drier  heat.  The  house  should  be  freely  venti¬ 
lated  when  the  weather  is  favourable,  especially  when  the  blossoms  show 
the  anthers  clear  of  the  petals,  avoiding  cold  draughts,  however  ;  but 
admit  a  little  air  constantly  by  the  top  lights.  Houses  that  have  innu¬ 
merable  “  chinks  ”  of  air  may  remain  closed  in  stormy  weather.  The 
temperature,  however,  must  be  raised  early  in  the  morning  to  50°,  and  be 
kept  between  that  and  55°  through  the  day ;  but  55°  must  not  be 
exceeded  by  artificial  means,  nor  an  advance  allowed  above  it  without  a 
free  circulation  of  air,  and  it  is  not  a  good  plan  to  close  early  in  the 
afternoon  at  this  stage. 
A  close  moist  atmosphere  favours  growth  more  than  sturdy  blossom 
and  the  setting  of  the  fruit.  Under  favourable  climatic  conditions  the 
pollen  is  dispersed  in  a  golden  shower  when  the  day  is  bright  and 
ventilation  has  been  attended  to  early  ;  the  setting  of  the  fruit  is  then 
generally  satisfactory,  even  without  artificial  fertilisation.  The  trees  or 
trellises,  however,  may  be  shaken  every  day  from  the  first  pollen  on  a 
tree  becoming  ripe  until  the  latest  flowers  thereon  have  cast  their  petals. 
A  plume  of  Pampas  Grass  drawn  over  the  blossoms  lightly  scatters  the 
pollen,  or  a  rabbit’s  tail  mounted  on  a  stick  may  be  used  similarly.  A 
camel-hair  brush  passed  over  pollen-laden  anthers  and  applied  to  the 
stigma  of  each  flower  is,  however,  the  most  certain  method  of  artificial 
fertilisation,  operating  after  the  house  has  been  ventilated  some  little 
time. 
Second  Early  House.— 'The  trees  must  be  started  without  delay  to  have 
ripe  fruit  in  May  or  early  .Tune,  according  to  the  variety.  Alexander  and 
Early  Louise  Peaches,  started  from  now  to  the  new  year,  will  ripen  the 
fruit  in  May,  Hale’s  Early  following  closely  i  but  Stirling  Castle  and 
Royal  George,  started  at  the  same  time,  will  not  ripen  their  fruit  until 
June,  unless  very  hard  forced,  which  is  inadvisable.  Fire  heat  should  only 
be  employed  to  keep  out  frost  at  night,  and  to  insure  50°  by  day,  above 
which  ventilate  freely,  and  close  the  house  at  that  temperature,  except 
that  a  little  air  should  be  admitted  constantly  by  the  top  ventilators  in 
close-fitting  houses.  Bring  the  trees  on  slowly,  not  hurrying  them  in 
swelling  the  buds  ;  and  if  these  are  abundant,  rub  off  those  on  the  under 
side  or  at  the  back  of  the  growths.  Sprinkle  the  trees  in  the  morning  and 
early  afternoon  of  bright  days  only,  damping  sufficing  when  the  weather 
is  dull.  Apply  water  if  necessary  to  bring  the  soil  into  a  thoroughly  moist 
condition.  ( lutside  borders  may  be  covered  with  about  3  inches  thickness 
of  leaves  and  litter,  but  avoid  thick  and  rich  coverings. 
Succession  Houses. — These  cannot  be  kept  too  cool  after  the  leaves  are 
all  down  and  the  trees  have  been  pruned  and  dressed.  If  the  roof -lights  are 
moveable,  they  should  be  removed  whilst  the  trees  are  at  rest.  The  frosts 
are  never  so  severe  as  to  injure  the  wood  of  trees  in  good  health  and 
profitable  use,  and  the  borders  become  thoroughly  moistened  by  the  winter 
rains  and  snow,  so  that  [they  seldom  require  water  until  the  fruit  is 
taking  the  first  swelling  and  entering  on  the  stoning  process.  Trees 
under  fixed  roofs  seldom  have  the  soil  thoroughly  moistened,  therefore  the 
buds  are  im])erfectly  formed,  and  are  cast  when  they  should  be  developing 
into  blossom.  If  the  roof-lights  are  fixed,  the  borders  must  be  carefully 
examined,  and  water  supplied  to  keep  the  soil  thoroughly  moist.  Dryness 
at  the  roots  during  the  rest  period  is  a  fertile  source  of  the  buds  falling, 
and  thorough  watering  will  not  do  any  harm  provided  the  drainage  is 
effective. 
Unheated  Houses. — When  the  roof-lights  are  removed  from  these 
directly  the  leaves  are  all  down,  and  they  remain  off  until  the  beginning 
of  March,  the  trees  enjoy  a  complete  season  of  rest  as  far  as  possible 
in  our  climate.  Up  to  that  time,  or  the  swelling  of  the  buds,  they  are 
simply  frost-proof,  for  it  is  not  these  that  suffer  from  severe  frost,  but 
I  he  unripe  wood,  and  that  is  worse  than  useless,  as  it  falls  a  prey  to. 
disease.  Danger  to  the  buds  liegins  when  they  commence  swelling,  and 
having  burst  their  scales,  show  the  downy  integuments  that  protect  the 
Idossoms.  The  pruning  in  such  cases  is  usually'  deferred  until  the  spring, 
which  is  a  light  affair  when  the  trees  are  grown  on  the  long-pruning 
system,  and  the  useless  parts  cut  out  directly  the  fruit  is  gathered, 
so  that  the  wounds  heal  at  once,  and  the  wdnter  pruning  is  rendered 
almost  nil.  Where  the  roof-lights  are  fixed  the  house  must  be  freely 
ventilated  in  mild  weather,  and  even  in  frosty  on  fine  days.  Above  all 
things  see  that  there  is  no  deficiency  of  moisture  in  the  border,  affording 
a  thorough  supply  of  water  when  necessary. 
Pines.  —  If  preparations  have  not  been  made  for  producing  ripe  fruit 
during  May  and  J  une,  no  time  should  be  lost  in  attending  to  the  matter. 
Black  Jamaica,  an  excellent  fruit,  especially  in  winter  ;  Charlotte  Roth¬ 
schild,  and  Smooth-leaved  Cayenne  plants,  which,  however  promising 
now,  failed  to  show  fruit  during  October  and  November,  will  not  throw 
up  in  time  to  ripen  at  the  time  named.  Attention  must,  therefore,  be 
directed  to  such  as  attain  perfection  in  less  time,  as  the  Queens,  Enville, 
and  Providence  varieties.  Select  at  once  those  plants  which  have  an 
enlarged  base  with  a  tendency  to  open  m  the  centre,  evidence  that  the 
fruit  will  shortly  be  visible,  and  place  them  in  a  light  house  or  pit, 
affording  a  brisk  bottom  heat,  say  85°  to  90°,  a  top  heat  of  60  to  70°  at 
night,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  and  10°  to  15°  more  from  sun  heat. 
When  the  external  conditions  are  favourable,  a  moderate  amount  of 
ventilation  must  be  given,  and  the  atmosphere  should  be  genial,  syringing 
the  plants  once  or  twice  a  week,  and  then  very'  lightly,  damping  the  paths 
and  similar  surfaces  in  the  house,  except  the  hot-water  pipes,  on  fine 
afternoons.  Water  will  be  required  at  the  roots  about  every  ten  days, 
but  do  not  supply  it  until  the  soil  becomes  dry,  and  then  in  a  tepid  state, 
with  a  little  guano  (1  oz.  per  gallon)  or  some  other  fertiliser  in  it,  and 
always  copiously,  dribbles  doing  more  harm  than  good. 
PLANT  HOUSES. 
Poinsettias. — As  the  bracts  of  these  fail  the  plants  needed  for  stock 
should  be  given  careful  treatment  afterwards.  Do  not  transfer  them  at 
once  from  a  warm  to  a  cold  structure,  but  remove  them  gradually,  and 
with  the  same  care  diminish  the  supply  of  water  until  it  will  be  safe  to 
keep  them  perfectly  dry  and  cool.  Plants  that  are  doing  duty  in  the 
conservatory  will  need  no  more  water  than  will  keep  their  foliage  fresh  ; 
these,  when  the  bracts  fail,  will  do  very  well  in  cool  quarters. 
Euphorbia  jacquiniaeflora. — Plants  that  have  flowered  in  the  stove 
need  also  the  same  careful  treatment.  They  are  liable  to  suffer  if 
kept  too  wet  or  suddenly  kept  too  dry.  These  after  flowering  should 
not  be  placed  in  too  low  a  temperature  ;  after  they  have  been  gradually 
hardened,  and  can  be  kept  dry,  they  will  be  perfectly  safe  in  a  tempera¬ 
ture  of  50°.  However  beautiful  these  may  be  while  in  flower  in  the 
stove,  they  are  much  more  useful  in  the  conservatory  where  the  tempe¬ 
rature  is  not  allowed  to  fall  much  below  50°  ;  they  also  last  double  the 
length  of  time.  Where  nearly  all  flowering  plants  have  to  be  employed 
in  this  structure  there  is  a  tendency  to  stiffness  at  this  season  of  the  year 
unless  such  light  graceful  plants  as  the  one  under  notice  are  grown  in 
