CA2  JOURNAL  OP  ttORTICULTURP  AND  COLL  AGP  OARDPNER.  December  23,  isg?. 
o''o  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should,  until 
further  notice,  be  directed  to  “  The  Editor,”  s.  Rose  Hin  Road, 
Wandsworth,  Xondon,  S.W.,  and  NOT  to  Fleet  Street.  It 
is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately  to  any  of  our  corre¬ 
spondents,  seeking  information  on  matters  discussed  in  this 
Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable  trouble  and 
expense,  and  departmental  writers  are  not  expected  to  answer 
any  letters  they  may  receive  on  Gardening  and  Bee  subjects 
tlirough  the  post.  If  information  be  desired  on  any  particular 
subject  from  any  particular  authority  who  may  be  named, 
endeavour  will  be  made  to  obtain  it  by  the  Editor. 
Correspondents  should  not  mix  up  on  the  same  sheet  questions  relating 
to  Gardening  and  those  on  Bee  subjects,  and  should  never  send 
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for  insertion  should  be  written  on  one  side  of  the  paper  only;  and 
the  name  and  address  of  each  writer  must  be  known  by  the 
Editor,  though  not  necessarily  for  insertion.  We  cannot,  as  a 
rule,  reply  to  questions  through  the  post,  and  we  do  not  under¬ 
take  to  return  communications  which,  for  any  reason,  cannot 
be  inserted. 
Grevillea  robnsta  (  Wi,  G.). — This  is  a  New  Holland  evergreen  green¬ 
house  plant  belonging  to  the  natural  order  Proteaceas.  It  certainly  cannot 
be  exhibited  as  a  Fern,  and  the  adjudicators  were  right  in  rejecting  it. 
Carnation  Blooms  Diseased  ((7.  E.). — The  flowers  are  what  is 
commonl}'  called  “  damped,  ’  meaning  a  turning  brown  or  discolouration 
of  the  petals,  and  speedy  decay.  This  is  considered  a  consequence  of  a 
close  and  damp  atmosphere,  esjiecially  when  the  development  has  been 
somewhat  forced  and  the  tissues  thin  and  tender,  hence  very  susceptible 
to  injury.  The  “  damping  ”  sometimes  occurs  without  any  accompanying 
micro-organisms  at  first,  but  these  may  follow.  A  very  minute  form  of 
parasitic  fungus  was  found  outside  of  the  ovary  of  one  of  the  flowers, 
producing  slender  fertile  hy]ih£e,  bearing  the  conidia,  and  when  falling 
away  forming  a  dark  jiowder.  In  other  cases  the  ovaries  were  quite 
healthy,  and  the  ovules  within  perfectly  normal  —indeed,  in  several  cases 
fertilised.  The  presence  of  the  fungus  may  or  may  not  have  had  some¬ 
thing  to  do  with  the  flowers  “  damping  off,”  but  it  is  not  the  damping 
followed  by  a  blue  mould,  and  is  interesting  even  if  disastrous  in  result. 
Perhaps  a  little  sulphur  on  the  hot-water  pipes  might  keep  the  parasite  at 
bay,  especially  with  air  left  on  the  house  constantly,  and  the  moisture 
somewhat  reduced.  This  we  have  found  the  best  preventive  of  common 
damping  and  mould,  but  this  case  of  yours  is  altogeiher  different,  and 
we  are  obliged  by  your  bringing  it  under  notice. 
Cucumbers  Failing  {A.  E.  (7.).— We  regret  to  report  that  the 
plant  has  succumbed  to  the  root-stem  eelworm.  Tylenchus  obtusus,  the 
same  enemy  as  is  represented  on  page  597.  The  lateral  roots  are  not 
affected  in  any  way  by  the  parasite.  The  disease  commences  at  the 
point  where  the  radicle  issues  from  the  seed,  but  w'e  do  not  for  one 
moment  entertain  the  idea  that  the  nematode  has  gone  over  in  the  seed. 
As  the  decayed  parts  contain  countless  numbers  of  cysts,  and  the  swollen 
parts  of  root-stem  innumerable  eggs,  we  advise  the  careful  lifting  of  the 
plants  with  a  spade,  cutting  all  round  and  under,  so  as  to  remove  the 
root-stem  intact,  and  place  each  as  removed  in  a  pail  smeared  inside 
with  petroleum,  finally  burning,  then  do  one  of  the  three  things  fol¬ 
lowing  :  —  1,  Scald  the  bed  without  delay  with  boiling  water,  also  the 
walls  of  the  bed  and  house,  as  w'ell  as  the  paths.  2,  Use  6  ozs.  of 
kainit  per  square  yard  to  each  6  inches  depth  of  soil,  and  either  6  ozs.  of 
quicklime  or  f  lb.  basic  slag  phosphate  along  with  the  kainit, 
mixing  uniformly  through  the  soil,  then  let  it  lie  a  few  weeks.  3,  Place 
on  the  bed  1  oz.  of  mustard  dross  per  square  yard  for  6  inches  depth  of 
soil,  and  mi.x  similarly.  These  we  have  found  the  most  simple  and  safe 
preventives.  Corrosive  sublimate  is  the  .best  germicide,  and  can  be 
applied  in  two  ways  : — One  mixed  with  1000  parts  of  dry  earth,  or  in 
solution  w'ith  water,  1  oz.  to  6^  gallons.  It  is,  however,  such  a  virulent 
poison  that  we  do  not  like  to  incur  the  responsibility  of  recommending 
it.  If  you  employ  the  kainit  and  basic  slag  phosphate,  as  much  growth 
as  desired  can  be  secured  by  usingnitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of  ammonia, 
half  to  1  oz.  per  square  yard,  at  intervals  of  four  to  six  weeks,  or  better 
supply  it  in  liquid  form,  and  never  stronger  than  \  oz.  to  a  gallon  of 
water.  As  regards  prevention  in  respect  of  fresh  soil,  either  (1)  Char 
the  turfy  loam  or  compost,  heating  it  through  to  a  temperature  of  about 
boiling  point ;  (2)  Scald  with  boiling  water ;  or  (3)  Stack  the  turf  along 
with  the  other  intended  ingredients  of  the  sompost,  using  the  kainit  and 
basic  slag  phosphate  in  the  proportion  before  quoted— viz,  1  oz.  kainit 
per  square  j’ard  to  each  inch  thickness  of  soil,  or  2^  lbs.  per  cubic  yard, 
and  double  that  amount  of  basic  slag  phosphate,  sprinkling  the  propor¬ 
tionate  quantities  on  each  layer  of  turf  as  placed  in  the  heap  ;  you  will 
then  have  a  compost  containing  potash  and  magnesia,  phosphate,  lime,  | 
and  iron,  also  probably  devoid  of  animal  parasites.  A  little  nitrate  of 
soda  given  occasionally,  when  the  plants  are  growing,  will  supply  the 
essential  nitrogen  to  enable  them  to  utilise  the  other  food  elements  to  the 
best  advantage  in  the  production  of  healthy  grow'th  and  profitable  crops. 
Hard  Carrots  {L.  Row). — It  is  comparatively  w'ell  known  that  there 
is  a  tendency  in  some  varieties,  particularly  those  which  form  part  of 
the  root  above  ground,  to  become  more  or  less  hard  in  places.  This  is 
partly  due  to  the  early  sowing  (late  March  or  early  April).  The  hard¬ 
ness  of  the  flesh  is  in  no  way  attributable  to  the  manure.  We  should 
not  sow  before  the  middle  of  April  for  the  main  crop,  and  oven  then  in 
light  silicious  and  calcareous  soils  the  roots  are  liable  to  become  over¬ 
grown — that  is,  advanced  towards  the  seeding  state,  and  so  have  more  or 
less  hard  cores  or  parts  that  do  not  become  tender  without  extra  long 
boiling.  In  such  soils  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  sow  early  in  July 
to  produce  a  late  crop  ;  the  roots  then  attain  to  a  good  useable  size,  and 
are  tender  and  delicious  when  cooked. 
Pruning  Roses  when  Planting  (i?os<?  .A 7«a<eMr).— Certainly  you  may 
when  planting  your  Roses  do  a  certain  amount  of  pruning.  Ho  not 
hesitate  to  shorten  the  very  long  growth,  reducing  them  about  half,  though 
we  know  they  are  often  left  uncut  till  spring,  and  Roses  thus  left  unpruned, 
say  till  April,  have  grown  very  well,  though  we  have  also  known  some  to 
fail.  The  difference  may  be  attributable  to  the  weather.  Should  the 
air  be  very  dry  over  a  long  period,  as  it  often  is  in  February  or  March, 
when  easterly  winds  prevail,  the  longer  the  shoots  are  the  greater  the 
evaporating  surfaces,  and  consequently  the  gretiter  the  escape  of  the 
juices  from  the  plants,  at  a  time  when  the  roots  are  inactive,  and  cannot 
absorb  moisture  from  the  soil  to  compensate  for  the  loss.  When  Roses 
are  dug  up  and  planted  in  October  and  November  they  may  commence 
rooting  at  once,  and  can  then  imbibe  moisture  to  meet  the  demands  of 
evaporation  ;  but  when  planted  now  and  onwards,  we  suspect  the  roots 
remain  dormant  till  the  spring,  and  on  this  account  we  should  shorten 
the  branches  as  the  safest  course  to  adopt  in  conserving  the  moisture  in 
the  lower  part  of  the  stems.  If  a  Rose  tree  is  dug  up  in  October,  before 
the  leaves  fall,  the  moisture  escapes  from  them,  and  the  stems  shrivel, 
but  if  most  of  tho  leaves  are  cut  off  tbe  evaporating  surface  is  reduced, 
and  the  stems  remain  fresh.  But,  observe,  we  should  only  “half  prune’' 
now,  shortening  more  closely  in  spring  after  the  buds  push  from  near  the 
tops  of  the  shoots,  and  if  they  grow  an  inch  or  more  no  harm  is  done  by 
their  removal. 
Vine  Leaves  and  Shoot  Diseased  {Ardgown).—T\\&  leaves  are  slightly, 
and  the  wood  seriously,  infested  with  the  Grape  anthracnose  fungus 
(Sphaceloma  ampelinum),  and  in  very  characteristic  form,  the  most 
damage  being  done  to  the  young  shoots  and  (when  any)  the  fruit.  The 
small  raised  spots  represent  the  pycnidia  of  the  anthracnose  fungus,  and 
from  these  the  minute  spores  are  pushed  out  when  mature.  When  these 
spores  fall  on  green  leaves  or  young  shoots,  they  germinate  under 
favourable  conditions,  the  resulting  niycelial  hyphae  growing  in  the  bark 
tissues  down  to  the  outer  wood,  causing  it  to  become  brown  or  black. 
The  fungus  lives  over  the  winter  on  the  Vines.  The  trtatment  usually 
found  effective  as  a  preventive  consists  in  cutting  out  all  injured  canes 
during  the  winter,  and  spraying  the  Vines  thoroughly  with  a  solution  of 
sulphate  of  iron,  1  lb.  to  5  gallons  of  water.  Stronger  solutions  are  used 
on  the  Continent  as  a  winter  dressing,  the  solution  being  applied  by 
means  of  a  brush  when  the  Vines  are  quite  dormant.  When  the 
disease  appears  a  powder  composed  of  equal  parts  of  air-slaked  lime  and 
flowers  of  sulphur  may  be  dusted  on.  The  Vines  are  so  weak  that  we 
should  use  the  solution  first  named  shortly  after  the  pruning.  But  what 
is  the  condition  of  the  roots  ?  We  put  this  question  as  the  wood  is  very 
weak,  and  the  leaves  thin  in  texture.  Examine  carefully  the  stems 
within  the  soil,  and  you  may  possibly  find  either  eelworms  (see  page  597) 
on  the  root-stem,  or  mites,  or  some  other  pests  to  account  for  the 
indifferent  growth.  If  you  find  anything  abnormal  we  shall  be  pleased 
to  render  any  further  assistance  in  our  power  if  you  submit  specimen  for 
examination. 
Vallota  purpurea  (T.  R.  J.). — The  compost  for  Vallotas  should 
consist  of  turfy  loam  with  a  little  decayed  manure  and  leaf  mould,  with 
sufficient  coarse  sand  to  keep  the  soil  open.  In  potting  place  three  bulbs 
in  a  well  drained  6-inch  pot ;  if  the  bulbs  are  scarce  have  one  in  a  3-inch 
pot,  but  we  recommend  the  former  practice  where  possible,  as  the 
plants  will  flower  profusely  and  make  a  beautiful  display.  In  potting 
place  some  of  the  roughest  of  the  compost  over  the  drainage,  then  three- 
parts  fill  the  pots  with  soil,  and  press  it  down  gently  to  prevent  it  sinking 
too  much.  If  6-inch  pots  are  used  place  the  bulbs  a  little  distance  apart 
to  allow  the  growth  of  offsets.  Give  a  good  watering  through  the  rose 
of  a  watering-can  and  transfer  the  pots  to  the  greenhouse,  assigning  them 
a  position  near  the  glass  ;  the  bulbs  will  then  soon  commence  growing. 
Never  permit  them  to  be  insufficiently'  supplied  with  water,  and  in  the 
summer  months  they  should  be  gently  sprinkled.  When  the  pots  are 
quite  full  of  roots  and  the  flower  stems  appearing,  weak  guano  water  may 
be  given  twice  a  week.  After  flowering  remove  the  flower  stems,  as  they 
exhaust  the  bulb  ;  the  pots  can  then  be  placed  in  any  sunny  part  of  the 
greenhouse,  so  as  to  have  the  bulbs  well  ripened.  The  soil  must  not 
be  allowed  to  become  dust- dry  at  any'  time,  not  even  in  the  winter 
months.  The  Vallota  is  increased  by'  oBsets.  The  small  bulbs  can  be 
taken  in  the  spring,  and  are  either  potted  singly  in  small  well-drained 
pots  or  placed  in  pans  in  a  compost  of  half  loam  and  leaf  soil  with  a 
little  sand,  and  if  placed  in  a  warm  part  of  the  greenhonse  they  will 
soon  produce  roots.  To  flower  the  plants  well  they  must  be  root-bound, 
and  three  bulbs  in  a  6-inch  pot  will  not  require  a  larger  one  for  three  or 
four  years,  providing  the  drainage  is  open. 
