103 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
January  50,  1902. 
Roses  for  Autumn  Blooms. 
{Concluded  from  nage  87.) 
I  propose  now  to  make  a  few  remarks  on  the  general  cul¬ 
tivation  of  the  particular  classes  of  Roses  specially  valuable 
for  their  autumn-flowering  qualities,  and  I  shall  then  submit 
the  names  of  some  of  the  best  varieties  of  different  habits 
of  growth  and  of  various  shades  of  colour.  The  Chinese 
Roses  of  all  kinds,  the  dwarf-growing  Tea-scented  Roses, 
and  such  of  the  Hybrid  Teas  as  approximate  in  nature  and 
habit  to  the  dwarf  Teas,  thrive  best  in  moderately  light 
soils.  Light  loam  suits  them  well,  and  they  will  flourish 
even  in  peaty  soil.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  they  are 
susceptible  to  severe  frost,  and  when  such  appears  to  be 
imminent  it  is  well  to  draw  some  of  the  surrounding  soil 
towards  the  collar  of  the  plant,  so  as  to  keep  its  heart  un¬ 
injured.  It  is  also  well  to  place  pieces  of  cut  evergreen 
or  other  litter  loosely  among  the  branches  of  the  plants. 
Severe  pruning  never  has  the  effect  of  destroying  the  flower¬ 
ing  of  these  classes  (although,  of  course,  the  larger  the  nlants 
can  be  grown  the  finer  will  be  their  effect  in  the  garden),  so 
that  no  hesitation  need  be  felt  in  removing  in  spring  any 
wood  that  appears  to  have  been  injured  by  frost  or  moisture 
during  winter.  There  should  be  no  stint  of  nourishment  in 
the  soil,  as>the  strain  on  the  plants  in  the  case  of  varieties  so 
continually  growing  and  flowering  is  very  great. 
The  beds  or  borders  should  be  mulched  every  November 
with  rich  manure,  which  may  be  turned  in  with  the  soil  in 
spring.  In  order  to  develop  and  improve  the  autumn  crop 
of  flowers  (although  the  greatest  success  in  this  respect  will 
always  depend  largely  upon  the  choice  of  the  most  suitable 
varieties),  something  may  be  done  to  assist  Nature  by  atten¬ 
tion  to  the  plants  after  the  first  flowering  is  finished  in  July. 
A  period  of  rest  is  highly  beneficial,  indeed  necessary,  after 
which  a  little  summer  riruning  and  thinning  is  advisable, 
and  the  pinching  back  of  any  gross  shoots  as  they  appear  will 
tend  to  equalise  the  growth  and  strength  of  the  remainder  of 
the  plant,  with  corresponding  advantage  to  the  coming  crop 
of  flowers.  Especial  attention  .should  be  given  to  any  point 
that  will  assist  the  second  growth  of  the  plants  when  it  com¬ 
mences,  as  it  is  upon  the  young  shoots  that  the  flowers  are 
produced.  Keeping  the  ground  well  hoed,  and  giving  the 
plants  occasional  waterings  with  manure  water  if  the  weather 
is  dry  from  the  middle  to  the  end  of  August,  will  be  of  assist¬ 
ance  to  them,  and  will  improve  the  quality  of  the  autumn 
flowers. 
The  system  of  culture  for  the  Climbing  Teas  and  the 
Noisette  Roses  is  similar  to  that  recommended  for  the 
Chinese  and  Dwarf  Teas,  excepting  that  greater  care  should 
be  taken  in  the  protection  of  the  wood  in  winter,  and  pruning 
in  spring  should  consi.st  in  leaving  the  best  of  the  strong 
shoots  of  the  previous  year  as  long  as  noasible,  as  these  pro¬ 
duce  the  best  flowers.  The  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  the  Boui*- 
bons,  and  the  Rugosa  Roses  will  succeed  in  a  stronger  soil, 
and,  being  by  nature  hardier  and  better  able  to  resist  frost, 
they  will  require  little  attention  in  winter,  althoiigh,  should 
the  weather  be  very  severe,  some  slight  protection  may  be 
serviceable  in  the  case  of  the  two  former  groups.  _  The 
pruning  in  spring  will  be  at  the  option  of  the  cultivator, 
according  to  whether  a  large  number  of  moderately  sized 
flowers  or  a  smaller  quantity  of  larger  ones  are  desired  for 
the  first  crop — long-pruning  securing  the  former  and  close- 
pruning  the  latter  result.  The  summer  treatment  for  the  im¬ 
provement  of  the  autumn  flowers  will  be  as  recommended 
for  the  other  classes.  Mulching  with  rich  manure  in  early 
winter  is  very  desirable.  The  dwarf  Polyantha  Roses  re¬ 
quire  the  same  treatment  as  the  Chinese,  but  as  they  are 
generally  used  for  edgings,  or  other  positions  where  a  dwarf 
habit  is  desired,  pruning  should  be  close.  The  best  varieties 
of  this  group  are  such  free  autumnal  bloomers  that  thev  need 
no  special  care  or  attention  for  the  development  of  the 
second  crop  of  flowers. 
Coming  now  to  an  enumeration  of  the  best  varieties  of 
Roses  of  different  classes  for  autumn  blooming,  I  think  the 
most  serviceable  way  of  dealing  with  this  part  of  my  subject 
will  be  to  group  them  according  to  their  habits  of  growth, 
specifying  in  each  group  the  best  varieties  of  each  shade  of 
colour.  I  would  here  take  the  opportunity  of  strongly  advo¬ 
cating,  whenever  possible,  the  system  of  planting  Roses  in 
beds  or  masses — .small  or  large,  according  to  the  space  avail¬ 
*  A  paper  re-ad  before  the  Fellows  of  the  Royal  Horticultural 
Society  by  Mr.  Arthur  William  Paul  (Messrs.  Wm.  Paul  &  Son), 
September  24,  1901.  Printed  in  vol.  xxvi  ,  parts  2  and  3. 
able — of  a  single  variety  rather  than  mixing  a  number  of 
varieties  in  one  bed.  Although  a  Rose  under  any  circum¬ 
stances  is  an  object  of  beauty,  and  it  is  rare  to  find  an  un¬ 
pleasing  association  of  colour  in  the  Rose  garden,  by  the 
system  of  mixed  planting  the  different  habits  of  growth  of 
the  different  varieties  are  apt  to  interfere  with  the  general 
effect,  and  when  once  the  bolder  system  of  planting  masses, 
of  one  variety  has  been  tried,  the  superiority  will  be  ad¬ 
mitted  without  question.  It  is  also  desirable,  when  possible, 
to  lay  out  a  Rose  garden  on  grass,  and  a  background  of  ever¬ 
green  or  other  foliage  adds  greatly  to  the  general  effect. 
Where  Roses  in  autumn  are  especially  desired,  dwarf  plants 
will  predominate  in  the  Rose  garden,  but  standards  may  be 
used  in  special  positions,  and  the  stronger  growing  varieties 
of  autumnals  may  be  planted  as  single  specimens  to  form 
pillars  or  large  bushes,  or  they  may  be  massed  in  the  centres 
of  large  beds.  For  our  purpose  the  different  varieties  of 
Roses  seem  to  fall  naturally  into  four  groups,  namely  : 
1.  Dwarf-growing  ones  for  low  masses  or  for  edging  ; 
2.  Varieties  of  moderate  growth  ;  3.  Varieties  of  vigorous 
growth  ;  4.  Varieties  of  semi-climbing  or  climbing  habit.  It 
will  be  understood  that  the  habits  of  growth  and  grouping  of 
colours  are  approximate  only ;  soil  and  locality  will  affect 
the  former,  whilst  colours,  especially  in  the  Tea  and  Hybrid 
Tea  sections,  are  often  difficult  to  classify ;  the  autumn 
shades  are  also  often  deeper  than  the  colours  of  the  same 
plants  in  summer.  I  think,  however,  the  following  grouping^ 
will  be  generally  found  correct : 
Commencing  with  dwarf-growing  varieties  suitable  for 
low  masses  or  for  edgings  to  beds,  the  Polyantha  varieties — 
Anne  Marie  de  Montravel  (white),  Eugenie  Lamesch 
(coppery)  yellow’),  Gloire  des  Polyantha  (bright  rose),  Leonie 
Lamesch  (coppery  red).  Mignonette  (pink),  and  Perle  des 
Rouges  (crimson)  are  excellent.  Other  good  ones  for  this 
purpose  are  the  varieties  of  the  crimson  Chinese  Roses, 
especially  Cramoisie  Superieure,  Eugene  Beauharnais,  and 
Fabvier.  The  Chinese  Roses  White  Pet  and  Red  Pet  are 
also  suitable.  The  miniatiu’e  China  or  Lawrenciana  Roses 
are  a  little  delicate,  but  are  excellent  for  the  purpose  where 
they  will  thrive.  Coming  next  to  the  moderate-growing  ones, 
we  have  in  the  Chinese,  Tea-scented,  and  Hybrid  Tea-scented 
sections  a  wealth  of  varieties  of  the  greatest  excellence  for 
autumn-blooming,  and  it  is  scarcely  possible  to  do  them 
justice  within  the  limits  of  this  paper.  I  shall  therefore 
mention  only  some  of  the  very  best.  Aurore,  Madame 
Eugene  Resal,  and  Madame  Laurette  Messimy  are  a  trio  of 
Chinese  Roses  producing  flowers  of  almost  indescribable 
tints  of  pink  and  rose-colour  mingled  with  shades  of  yellow 
and  copper,  while  the  peerless  Queen  Mab,  with  its  soft 
rosy-apricot  blossoms,  is  one  of  the  gems  of  its  class.  Other- 
valuable  Chinese  Roses  are  the  Common  Pink,  known  also 
as  the  Monthly  Rose,  from  its  persistent  habit  of  flowering  ; 
Ducher  (white)  ;  Diike  of  York  (variable  red  and  white 
flowers  always  beautiful  ;  Irene  Watts  (salmon-pink)  ;  Jean 
Bach  Sisley  (silvery  rose)  ;  and  Maria  Sage  (full  pink).  To 
these  may  be  added  the  Bourbon  varieties  Armosa,  with  its 
bright  pink  blossoms,  and  Mrs.  Bosanquet  (white),  and  the 
Tea  Rose,  Princesse  de  Sagan  (deep  velvety  crimson), 
all  three  of  which  have  many  of  the  characteristics  of 
the  Chinese  Roses.  The  Polyantha  variety,  Perle  d’Or 
(erolden  buff),  and  the  Bourbon  Souvenir  de  Malmaison,  with 
its  blush  flowers,  are  also  good. 
Notes  on  Pines, 
Fruiting  Plants  and  Starters. 
The  plants  started  at  the  new  year  will  now  be  throwing  up 
fruit,  and  should  have  a  mean  temperature  of  70deg,  varying  it 
odeg  according  to  the  weather,  admitting  air  at  80deg  with  sun¬ 
shine,  but  not  lowering  the  temperature,  allowing  it  to  rise  to 
85deg,  closing  between  that  and  80deg,  and  if  it  rise  somewhat 
after  closing  it  will  be  advantageous  rather  than  otherwise.  The 
plants  recently  started  for  fruiting  will,  if  in  good  condition  at 
the  roots,  produce  strong  suckers.  When  the  suckers  are 
large  enough  to  handle,  all  except  one  to  each  plant  must  have 
the  growth  checked  by  taking  out  the  centres. 
Successional  Plants. 
To  supplement  the  autumn-potted  plants,  select  others  which 
have  been  wintered  in  Tin  or  8in  pots,  choosing  the  most  vigorous. 
Those  remaining  may  be  reserved  until  the  general^  spring 
potting,  when  they  can  be  shaken  out  and  treated  similarly  to 
suckers.  Good  fibrous  loam,  with  the  turf  v'ell  reduced,  placerT 
under  cover  to  become  dried,  is  a  suitable  compost.  Drain  the 
