January  30,  1902. 
■JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
lia 
p 
1 
1 
jo  WOKK.foi;.theWEEK..R 
Fruit  Forciug. 
HOUSES  TO  AFFORD  RIPE  GRAPES  IN  JTXY.— Start  the 
Vines  at  the  beginning  of  February.  There  is  no  need  to  cover 
the  outside  border  vith  fermenting  materials,  but  there  is 
absolute  necessity  for  applying  a  covering  of  leaves  or  htter  so 
as  to  preverit  the  ground  being  frozen.  If  the  Vines  are  planted 
outside,  see  that  the  stems  are  well  protected  by  haybands,  for 
if  these  become  frozen  after  the  Vines  have  started  into  growth,  it 
is  certain  thej'  will  receive  a  severe  check  and  the  crop  be  lost. 
Syringe  the  rods  three  times  a  day  maintaining  a  temperature 
of  SOdeg  at  night  and  bodeg  by  day,  with  sun  heat.  Supply 
inside  borders  with  tep'd  water  or  liquid  manure,  and  repeat  as 
neces.sarv.  so  as  to  bring  the  soil  into  a  thoroughly  moist  con¬ 
dition,  but  not  making  it  sodden  and  sour. 
PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES— EARLIEST  FORCED 
TREES. — A  good  set  of  fruit  often  attends  the  mere  shaking  of 
the  trellis  or  trees.  It  is  desirable,  however,  to  fertilise  the 
blossoms  as  they  expand  and  the  pollen  becomes  ripe,  distribut¬ 
ing  it  over  the  stigmas  with  a  camel-hair  brush,  feather,  or  rabbit 
tail  mounted  on  a  stick.  Syringing  may  be  resorted  to  both 
morning  and  afternoon,  when  the  fruit  is  set  and  s  veiling,  and 
the  weather  bright  ;  but  in  dull  periods  damp'ng  the  floors  and 
borders  will  be  sufficient,  and  the  afternoon  syringing  should  take 
place  early,  to  allow  the  foliage  to  become  fairly  dry  before  night¬ 
fall.  This  is  important,  for  excessive  moisture  encourages  soft 
woody  growths,  weakens  the  tissues,  and  interrupts  the  elabora¬ 
tion  and  assimilation  of  the  juices,  which  are  essential  to  the  de¬ 
velopment  of  the  fruit  and  the  sound  construction  of  the  wood. 
The  water  used  for  damping  and  .syringing  must  be  of  the  same 
temiDerature  as  the  house,  also  that  supplied  to  the  roots.  Avoid 
a  sodden  condition  of  the  soil,  which  frequently  induces  the  cast¬ 
ing  of  the  fruit,  and  the  growth  of  long-jointed  useless  wood. 
Disbudding  must  be  done  very  carefully  at  this  early  season, 
removing  a  few  growths  from  a  tree  at  a  time,  and  continuing  the 
process  daily.  This  is  preferable  to  removing  shoots  in  quantity 
at  distant  intervals,  as  it  gives  a  check  to  the  roots,  interferes 
with  the  diffusion  of  the  nutrient  matter,  and  promotes  wood 
growth  at  the  exiieiise  of  the  fruit.  The  night  temperature  wilt 
need  to  be  ma'iitained  at  55deg,  to  insure  steady  progress,  or 
even  GOdeg  on  mild  n  ghts  may  be  allowed,  while  on  cold  it  may 
fall  to  oOdeg,  for  safety  is  on  the  .side  of  the  low  degree,  GOdeg 
to  Godeg  by  day  artificially,  odeg  less  on  these  figures  vhen  the 
weather  is  severe  and  dull.  Vent  late  early,  admitting  air  at 
65deg.  not  allowing  an  advance  over  70deg  without  free  or  full 
ventilation,  closing  at  Godeg,  always  excepting  a  small  opening 
at  the  top  of  the  house  constantly.  This  prevents  a  .stagnant 
atino.sphere,  .secures  a  healthy  conditicn  in  the  foliage,  and  it  is 
enabled  to  act  fully  n  the  presence  of  light. 
SECOND  EARLY  HOUSE.— This  is  the  fir.st  in  most  estab¬ 
lishments,  and  being  started  at  the  new  year,  the  trees  are 
expanding  their  flower.',  being  s  ngularlj'  free  from  aphides.  Great 
care  must  be  exercised  in  fumigating  with  tobacco,  or  even 
vaporising  with  nicotine,  as  the  organs  of  fructification  are  easily 
destroyed,  therefoi’e  fum  gat  on  on  two  or  three  consecutive  even¬ 
ings  moderatelj'  must  be  had  recourse  to  if  necessary,  in  order 
to  keep  the  insects  in  check,  but  vaporising  is  the  .safest  proce.ss. 
Solutions  sometimes  injure  the  blossoms,  and  ought,  as  a  rule,  to 
be  avoided,  but  quavsia  extract,  duly  diluted,  may  be  u.scd  -^juite 
.safely.  With  an  excess  of  blo-som  buds  the  trees  may  fail  to  set 
the  fruit  well,  but  by  removing  those  on  the  under  side  of  the 
shoots  the  remainder  are  correspondingly  invigorated,  and  the 
setting  usually  .satisfactory.  Syring  ng  is  best  discontmued  from 
the  time  the  buds  show  colour  and  until  the  fruit  is  set,  but  the 
house  may  be  sprinkled  n  the  morn  ng  and  afternocn.  which 
will  afford  quite  enough  moisture  for  .steady  progress,  a  .stagnant 
atmosphere  being  avoided  by  leaving  a  little  air  on  constantly  at 
the  top  of  the  house  and  increasing  the  ventilation  from  50deg, 
which  .should  be  the  minimum  day  temperature,  and  Godeg  the 
maximum  from  sun  heat,  with  full  ventilation.  Regard,  how¬ 
ever,  must  be  had  to  cold  air,  it  not  being  advisabl.^  to  admit  too 
much,  but  vai*3'  the  ventilation  according  to  external  conditions. 
Inside  borders  should  be  thoroughly  moi.stened  to  the  drainage, 
avoiding  needless  watering. 
TREES  TO  AFFORD  FRUIT  IN  JULY.— The  house  should 
be  closed  at  the  beginning  of  February,  when  such  varieties  a,s 
Dymond,  Royal  George,  Gros.se  Mignonne,  Noble.sse,  and 
Rellegarde  Peaches,  with  Stanwick  Elruge,  Humboldt,  Dryden, 
and  Pineapple  Nectarines,  will  give  a  supply  of  th?  choicest  fruit, 
while  the  earlier  vai'ieties,  if  any  are  grown,  will  come  in  about 
three  weeks  earlier.  The  very  early  varieties,  however,  are  not 
tvorth  grow'ing  beside  these  midseason  sorts,  but  the  second 
early,  such  as  Hale’s  Early,  A  Bee,  Dr.  Hogg,  and  Rivers’  Early 
York  Peaches,  with  Rivers’  Early,  Goldoni,  and  Lord  Napier 
Nectarines,  are  excellent  for  preceding  the  raidseason  varieties. 
The  trees  should  be  syringed  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  during 
bright  Aveather,  occasionally  only  in  dull,  and  the  border  niu.st  be 
brought  into  a  thoroughly  moist  condition.  Employ  fire  heat  to 
raise  and  maintain  the  temperature  at  oOdeg  by  day,  above  which 
ventilate  freely,  and  allow  to  fall  to  45deg  or  40deg  at  night. 
SUCCESSION  AND  LATE  HOUSES.— Fini.sh  pruning  the 
trees  at  once,  dressing  them  with  an  insecticide,  after  washing 
with  softsoapy  water,  3oz  or  4oz  to  a  gallon,  taking  care  not  to. 
dislocate  the  buds,  not  using  the  dressing  at  wunter  strength 
after  the  buds  are  advancing  in  sw^elling,  but  employ  a  w'eaker 
•solution,  and  applying  with  a  syringe.  Secure  the  trees  to  the 
trellis,  allowing  space  for  the  swelling  of  the  branches,  and  leave 
room  between  them  for  laying  in  young  wood  for  future  bearing. 
Loosen  the  surface  of  the  border  lightly,  not  disturbing  the  roots 
materially,  removing  any  loose  soil  or  old  mulching,  and  supply¬ 
ing  fresh  loam,  with  a  dressing  of  bone  superphosphate  three 
parts,  sulphate  of  potash  two  parts,  and  one  part  sulphate  of 
lime,  mixed,  applying  a  good  handful  per  .square  yard — the  water¬ 
ings  will  wash  it  in  fast  enough.  If  the  borders  are  at  all  dry., 
afford  a  thorough  watering.— Sx.  Albans. 
The  Kitchen  Garden. 
EARLY  POTATOES. — On  a  sheltered  south  border,  having 
light. well-drained  soil,  a  batch  of  early  Potatoes  may  be  planted. 
The  rows  should  be  2ft  apart,  and  the  sets  placed  a  foot  asunder, 
about  Gin  deer.  The  best  sorts  for  the  purpose  are  the  A.shleaf 
va'.'ieties,  and  Ringleader,  Harbinger,  and  Sharpe’s  Victor.  This 
planting  will  follow  the  crop  of  frame-grown  Potatoes,  but  atten¬ 
tion  mu.st  be  given  to  protect  the  growth  after  it  has  appeared 
above  ground.  Those  varieties  which  are  to  be  grown  im 
frames  on  slight  hotbeds  ought  also  to  be  planted  now.  Leaves 
and  manure  well  mixed  and  placed  together  in  a  heap,  rather 
wider  all  round  than  a  frame,  and  4ft  high,  will  form  a  good  bed, 
using  9,11  of  soil  on  the  top.  The  Ashleaf  varieties  are  admirably 
suited  for  frame  culture,  and  if  the  tubers  can  be  sprouted  pre¬ 
viously  to  planting,  progress  in  growth  will  be  rapid.  Medium 
sized  tubers  are  the  best  to  plant,  and  if  sprouted,  rub  off  all  the 
weakly  shoots,  retaining  only  one  bold,  short-jointed  growth  to 
each.  Throw  mats  over  the  frame  in  frosty  weather. 
SPROUTING  POTATOES  FOR  LATE  PLANTING.— Tubers 
that  are  encouraged  to  produce  short  jointed  purple  shoots  must 
necessarily  be  planted  later  outdoors  than  dormant  tubers.  This, 
however,  is  a  suitable  time  to  select  the  tubers,  placing  them  oil' 
end  in  shallow  boxes,  and  arranging  in  a  cool,  light  position,  to 
produce  the  growths  slowly.  They  will  be  ready  lor  planting  in' 
April,  and  may  then  need  some  protection  from  light  spring  frosts 
as  the  growths  push  through  the  soil. 
DIVIDING  AND  REPLANTING  RHUBARB.— From  the 
present  time  until  growths  push  from  the  crowns  is  a  suitable  time 
tC'  make  fresh  plantations  of  Rhubarb.  Divisions  with  two  or 
three  eyes  or  crowns  are  adapted  for  planting.  The  ground 
cannot  be  too  deeply  dug  or  too  freely  manured,  as  Rhubarb  is  a 
gross  leeding  subject  and  pays  for  liberal  treatment.  Roots  that 
have  been  foiced  ought  not  to  be  employed  for  forming  a  new 
plantation,  unless  a  season  or  two  can  be  given  to  them  to 
recuperate.  Plant  the  divisions  3ft  apart  each  way,  the  crowns 
being  just  level  with  the  surface. 
PLANTING  SHALLOTS. — When  the  ground  is  moderately 
dry  on  the  surface,  and  can  be  made  tolerably  firm.  Shallots  may 
be  planted.  Draw  shallow  drills  1ft  apart,  and  plant  the  cloves 
in  them  9in  asunder.  Simply  press  them  firmly  into  the  ground 
so  as  to  keep  them  in  position  until  roots  are  emitted  from  the 
base. 
TOMATOES. — Seedling  plants  from  an  early  sowing  growing 
in  a  warm  house  must  be  potted  singly,  or,  if  very  small,  placed 
round  the  edges  of  3in  pots.  In  either  case,  sink  the  stems  to 
the  seed  leaf,  as  roots  will  be  emitted  from  the  stem,  and  thus 
strenqthen  the  plants.  A  position  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass  must 
be  afferdej  them.  Further  sowings  may  be  made,  as  the  seedlings 
will  grow  more  readily  and  strongly  with  the  increased  light  and 
adequate  heat.  Earliest  of  All  is  a  good  variety  for  the  first  crops, 
following  with  such  sorts  as  Duke  of  York  and  Frogmore  Selected. 
Perfection  and  Ham  Green  Favourite  are  good  main-cropping 
varieties. 
CABBAGE. — Any  plants  remaining  in  the  seed  beds  may  be 
planted  out  to  enlarge  the  existing  plantation  of  young  plants, 
or  to  fill  up  vacancies  which  have  occurred  during  the  winter. 
As  soon  as  the  surface  soil  is  dry  and  workable,  the  Dutch  hoe 
should  be  run  among  the  plants.  All  those  that  are  found  to  be' 
loose  round  the  stems  ought  to  be  made  firm. 
MUSTARD  AND  CRESS. — Sa'ad  being  frequently  in  demand, 
it  is  desirable  to  sow  Mustard  and  Cress  frequently  in  a  warm' 
structure.  Fill  boxes  with  light  soil,  water,  and  sow  the  seed  on, 
the  surface.  A  brisk  heat  brings  it  on  quickij'  into  use. — Lyming- 
TON,  Hants. 
