122 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
February  6,  1902. 
description,  will  quickly  cause  the  flowers  to  go  blind.  A  tem¬ 
perature  ranging  from  oSdeg  to  GOdeg  suits  them  well  till  the 
flower  stems  begin  to  lengthen  ;  more  heat  may  then  be  applied. 
I  often  wonder  why  Narcissus  poeticus  ornatus  is  not  forced  more 
largely.  Many  are  content  to  get  flowers  in  March,  yet  we  in¬ 
variably  begin  to  cut  at  the  beginning  of  February.  [The 
ordinary  N.  poeticus  is  selling  freely  in  Covent  Garden,  and  has 
been  for  three  weeks. — Ed.]  The  bulbs  are  placed  in  boxes  early 
in  the  autumn,  and  the  earliest  batch  is  placed  under  glass  at  the 
same  time  as  the  Daffodils.  N.  p.  ornatus  will,  in  fact,  bear 
sharper  forcing  than  Daffodils.  Sir  Watkin,  Golden  Spur,  and 
Horsefieldi  are  grand  Narcissi  if  subjected  to  moderate  forcing 
only,  and  if  the.y  are  in  flower  by  the  end  of  February,  that  is 
usually  early  enough. 
With  the  advent  of  bright  weather  all  forced  bulbs  will  re¬ 
quire  considerable  quantities  of  water  at  the  roots,  as  the  soil 
should  be  a  nerfect  network  of  roots,  and  if  too  little  water  is 
given,  the  vigour  of  the  plant  is  greatly  diminished.  A  little 
soot  water  or  other  liquid  manure  given  occasionally  helps  to 
give  high  colour  to  both  flowers  and  foliage,  and  also  to  im¬ 
prove  the  substance  of  both  :  for,  althougli  a  good  bulb  contains 
the  ijerfectly  formed  plant  in  the  embryo,  vet,  as  development 
takes  place,  feeding  will  help  to  give  the  highest  vigour  to  every 
part. 
Spanish  Irises  are  always  appreciated  for  using  as  cut  flowers, 
as  their  quaint  and  brilliant  beauty  appeal  to  some,  quite  as 
much  as  the  more  aristocratic  Orchid.  They  will  not,  however, 
bear  much  forcing.  If  a  batch  is  now  placed  in  a  house  where  a 
gentle  heat  only  is  kept  regularly  in  the  pipes,  they  should  be  in 
flower  by  the  end  of  March  or  early  in  April.  I  find  that  they 
like  constant  ventilation;  if  kept  in  a  close  temperature,  they 
often  get  very  thin  and  weak,  but  with  the  same  amount  of  heat 
in  the  hot  water  pipes,  and  the  regular  current  of  air.  they  succeed 
well.  An  occasional  syringing  during  bright  weather  is  also 
beneficial,  and  should  green  fly  attack  them,  as  it  often  will,  fumi¬ 
gating  should  be  resorted  to,  as  there  are  few  plants  more  easily 
ruined  by  this  well  known  gardeners’  foe  than  the  Spanish  Iris. 
I  would  also  suggest  the  forcing  of  a  few  German  Irises,  whose 
rhizomes  start  freely  in  a  temperature  of  GOdeg. — Plantsman. 
- - 
Seasonable  Hints. 
staking  Trees. 
Let  all  newly  planted  trees  be  -well  and  properly  .secured 
from  the  spring  winds.  If  any  large  trees  have  been  removed 
arid  planted,  three  strong  stakes  should  be  placed  in  a 
triangular,  sloping  po.sition,  meeting  at  the  top,  so  as  when 
tied  to  be,  as  it  were,  embracing  the  tree.  In  this  position,  which¬ 
ever  way  the  wind  blows,  there  will  be  a  stake  to  resist  its 
power,  which,  on  a  large-headed  tree,  iS  always  great.  Hence 
the  necessity  of  having  three  stakes,  to  keep  the  tree  firm 
and  its  roots  quiet.  For  all  moderate-sized  trees  one  stake  will 
be  sufficient,  if  driven  firmly  into  the  ground.  Trees  and  shrubs 
planted  early  in  autumn — if  .staked  then — w^ill  now  require 
examining,  and  .should  either  any  of  the  stakes  have  blown 
loose,  or  the  ties  have  become  .slack,  let  the  stakes  be  fresh 
driven  in  and  the  ties  renewed,  always  remembering  to  place 
some  substance,  such  as  a  hay-band,  between  the  .stakes  and 
the  trees  to  preserve  the  bark  from  being  rubbed  off  or 
injured. 
Attention  to  Walks. 
All  walks  that  do  not  require  renewing  should  now  be 
weeded,  well  swept,  and  frequently  rolled,  to  make  them 
firm,  smooth,  and  even  ;  after  frost  the  gravel  is  apt  to  stick  to 
the  roller.  To  prevent  this,  let  the  operator  put  on  a  water¬ 
proof  overcoat,  and,  while  a  gentle  shower  is  falling,  take  the 
roller  and  draw  it  over  the  walk  several  times.  The  rain  will 
wash  the  gravel  off  the  roller,  and  effectually  prevent  it  stick¬ 
ing.  Rolling,  while  the  rain  is  falling,  will  crush  in  the  larger 
pebbles,  as  the  rain  will  soften  the  understratum,  to  allow 
that  effect  to  take  place.  This  crushing,  rolling  opeiution,  if 
frequently  performed,  will  also  help  to  destroy,  or  to  prevent 
the  growth  of  mosses — those  sad  disfigurers  of  gravel  walks. 
The  above  remarks,  of  course,  apply  only  to  our  amateur 
readers  who  can  afford  to  purchase  a  roller.  No  good  garden, 
indeed,  ought  to  be  without  one.  Our  cottage  friends,  perhaps, 
may  have  some  kind  neighbour  that  will  lend  them  a  roller 
occasionally  for  their  walks  also.  Should  any  pebbles  be  so 
large  that  the  roller  will  not  crush  them  in,  take  a  rammer, 
such  as  the  paviors  use,  only  not  quite  so  large,  and,  with  this 
instrument,  beat  down  these  large  stones  to  the  level  of  the 
walk  :  then  run  the  roller  over  the  walk,  and  all  will  be  even 
alike.  We  have  frequently  practised  the  rolling  of  gravel 
walks  during  a  shower,  and  always  found  it  to  answer  admirably 
in  preventing  the  gravel  adhering  to  the  roller  and  making 
it  set  firmly,  and  become  an  even  smooth  walk. 
Trenching  and  Digging. 
These  operations  may  yet  be  performed  in  the  flower- 
garden,  where  the  beds  are  empty  of  flower  roots,  that  is,  if  our 
plan  of  having  the  beds  filled  with  evergreens  in  pots  has  not 
been  adopted.  I'he  plan  to  do  this  well  and  effectually  is  to., 
remove  all  the  soil  out  of  each  bed  to  the  depth  of  IGin  or  18in. 
If  the  soil  be  poor  or  exhausted  take  it  all  away,  and  entirely 
renew  the  bed  with  fresh  soil.  Flowers  mostly,  love  a  light  and 
rather  rich  soil.  The  follov.'ing  compost  will  suit  the  generality 
of  flowers,  usually  grown  in  masses  of  one  variety,  in  each  bed;. 
One-half  of  turfy  loam  from  a  common  or  old  hilly  pasture 
(this  should  be  at  least  twelve  months  laid  up  in  a  heap  and 
regularly  turned  over  once  a  month,  for  that  time,  before 
u.sing) ;  sandy  peat,  one-quarter ;  very  much  decayed  cowdung. 
and  leaves,  one-quai*ter ;  with  as  much  river  .sand  as  will  give 
the  whole  a  .sandy  texture.  To  make  this  perfectly  plain,  we 
will  describe  the  compost  as  consisting  of  two  barrowloads  of 
loam,  one  barrowload  of  .sandy  peat,  half  a  barrowload  of  cow- 
dung,  and  the  .same  quantity'  of  rotten  leaves,  with  the  requisite 
quantity  of  .sand — perhaps  a  bushel  of  sand  to  the  above  quantities 
would  be  enough,  or  less  would  do  if  the  loam  and  peat  are 
naturally  sandy.  At  the  bottom  of  each  bed  put  in  the  rougher 
parts  of  the  compost,  which  may  be  picked  out  for  that  purpose. 
The  old  soil  will  be  useful  for  vegetable  crops,  and  may  be 
wheeled  at  once  into  the  kitchen  garden.  When  the  soil  of  the 
beds  is  once  thoroughly  renew'ed,  as  above  described,  it  will  last 
several  years,  with  the  addition  of  a  portion  of  dung  or  rotten 
leaves  annually.  The  soil  in  the  beds  ought  to  be  filled  in  so 
high  as  to  allow'  for  settling.  When  all  the  beds  are  filled,  if 
they  are  on  the  lawn,  let  the  edges  be  neatly  cut  with  a  sharp 
edging  knife,  and  the  turf  that  is  cut  off  taken  to  the  compost 
yard  to  decay.  It  will  make  good  loam  for  various  potting  pur¬ 
poses.  The  beds  will  now  require  no  more  attention  till  the  time- 
arrives  to  plant  the  flowers. 
Violets. 
Continue  to  cover  up  every  night,  and  give  air  on  all  mild 
days.  Keep  a  good  look  out  for  slugs,  as  they  are  very  fond  of 
making  a  meal  of  those  favourite  flowers.  Let  the  flowers  be 
gathered  as  soon  as  they  are  fully  blown.  By  doing  this  con¬ 
stantly.  you  will  strengthen  the  conning  blooms.  Should  several 
sunny  days  succeed  each  other  they  will  require  water.  When¬ 
ever  you  observe  this,  have  some  soft  water,  about  as*w'arm  as 
new  milk.  Do  not  give  them  a  mere  dribbling  only,  but  a  right 
good  soaking,  that  will  thoroughly  wet  the  soil  and  go  down  to> 
the  roots  effectually.  This  good  watering  will  cause  them  to  send 
up  fine,  large,  well-coloured  flowers.  The  operation  will  them 
not  need  to  be  so  often  repeated,  for  when  too  often  done  there 
is  danger  of  damping  off  the  flowers.  Watering  should  now  be 
always  done  early  in  the  morning,  and  on  fine,  warm  days.  It 
may  happen  that  the  green  fly  will  make  its  appearance.  As  soon 
as  you  see  them,  even  in  small  numbers,  procure  some  tobacco- 
— or  tobacco  paper— and  fill  the  frame,  or  pit,  with  its  smoke. 
Do  this  carefully,  or  you  may  scorch  the  leaves.  Never  allow 
the  tobacco  to  blaze;  if  you  do  your  Violets  will  suffer  for  it. 
It  is  easily  prevented  by  damping  the  tobacco  just  enough  to- 
prevent  that  effect.  The  red  spider  is  also  very  fond  of  Violet 
leaves,  and  if  allowed  to  go  ahead  will  almost  destroy  them — at 
least  prevent  them  from  flowering  .satisfactorily.  This  is  a  far- 
more  formidable  enemy  to  contend  with  than  the  green  fly, 
and  ten  times  more  destructive.  It  is  also  more  difiScult  either  to- 
prevent  or  to  get  rid  of.  Yet  it  must  be  destroyed,  or  your  crop- 
of  Violet  flowers  will  be  very  meagre. 
Forcing  Roses. 
The  first  lot  will  now  be  showing  flowers,  and  should  be 
attended  to  closely,  with  moderate  waterings.  At  every  third- 
application  of  water  mix  a  small  portion  of  guano  in  the  water, 
or  some  manure  water  made  with  cowdung — both  excellent 
fertilisers  for  the  Rose  forced  iff  pots.  Should  any  worm-casts 
appear  on  the  surface  of  the  earth  in  the  pots,  apply  clear  lime 
vater.  This  will  destroy,  without  injuring  the  plants.  '  The 
green  fly  will  also  make  its  appearance,  and  may  be  easily 
destroyed  by  the  same  means  as  that  mentioned  above  for 
Violets.  The  red  spider  is  also  fond  of  Rose  leaves.  Use  the 
syringe  freely  to  keep  him  within  bounds.  Look  also  for 
maggots  in  the  buds,  and  crush  them  vdth  the  fingers.  All  these 
enemies  require  constant  watchfulness  t-o  keep  them  from- 
destroying  what  all  your  pains  are  put  forth  to  obtain — healthy 
plants  and  full  handsome  flowers.  Some  more  pots  of  Roses 
ought  now  to  be  taken  in,  to  insure  a  succession  of  blooms.  Place 
them  at  first  at  the  coolest  end  of  the  house  or  pit,  giving  but 
little  water  for  the  first  fortnight.  The  roots  will,  by  that  time, 
have  begun  to  put  out  rootlets  (young,  roots),  and  -will  be  able 
now  to  take  up  nourishment  for  the  springing,  buds.  You  may 
then  give  water  more  freely.  The  heat  for  forcing  Roses  should 
be  55deg  by  day  and  oOdeg  by  night.  With  sun  heat  it  may  be 
allowed  to  rise  to  GOdeg,  provided  there  is  plenty  of  air  on  at 
the  same  time.  Any  higher  temperature  w'ould  cause  them  to> 
draw  up  weakly  and  the  flower  buds  to  drop  off. — G.  G. 
