i42 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  QABDENER, 
Febn  ury  13,  1902. 
Chrysanthemum,  Nellie  Pockett. 
The  splendid  specimen  plant  of  this  variety,  and  illustrated 
on  page  143,  was  grown  by  Mr.  Robert  Masson,  gardener  to 
M.  Bisset,  Esq.,  38,  Alby  Place,  Aberdeen.  Mr.  Wells,  of 
J'larlswood,  who  sent  us  the  photograph,  remarks  that  the  plant 
was  the  best  ever  he  saw,  taking  quality,  size  of  blooms,  strength, 
and  quantity  of  healthy  foliage  into  consideration.  Regarding 
his  treatment  of  bush  Chrysanthemums,  Mr.  Masson  has  been 
kind  enough  to  furnish  the  following  particulars : — “  The 
cuttings  were  inserted  in  December,  and  shifted  on  early  in 
h  ehruary  into  3in  pots.  After  the  plants  were  established  they 
were  placed  in  a  cool  house  without  any  fire  heat.  Towards  the 
end  of  March  they  were  moved  into  cold  frames  and  placed  as 
near  the  glass  as  possible.  Early  in  May  they  received  the  next 
sh  ft  into  ojin  pots,  while  towards  the  middle  of  June  they  re¬ 
ceived  the  final  potting;  Thomson’s  Vine  and  plant  manure,  and 
bonemeal  were  used  liberally  for  all  the  pottings.  The  plants 
were  fed  with  soot  water  and  Thomson’s  manure  alternately, 
after  the  pots  were  filled  with  roots,  and  until  the  blooms  were 
half  developed.  The  variety  Nellie  Pockett  was  pinched  about 
tbe  end  of  March,  then  allowed  to  make  a  natural  break,  and 
second  crown  buds  secured.  To  become  successful  in  growdng 
specimen  plants  I  consider  the  following  points  important: — 
(1),  Young  plants  give  healthier  wood  and  larger  blooms  than 
old  plants.  (2),  The  final  potting  must  not  be  too  hard  or  else 
the  growth  is  not  so  free.  (3),  Careful  staking  is  needful,  and  it 
is  better  to  insert  a  few  at  the  final  potting,  the  remainder  dur¬ 
ing  the  season  as  required.  By  doing  this  there  is  not  the  same 
check  to  the  roots.  (4),  In  order  to  keep  the  foliage  in  good  con¬ 
dition  the  plants  must  never  be  allowed  to  flag  at  any  time. — 
Robert  Masson.” 
Seasonable  Notes. 
Very  good  plants  for  general  purposes  may  be  grown  from 
cuttings  inserted  now,  and  even  during  the  next  two  months  ; 
but,  of  course,  the  early  raised  plants  are  the  most  readily  grown 
into  lai'ge  specimens.  The  early  Japanese  varieties,  all  the  in¬ 
curved,  reflexed,  single,  and  October  flowering  varieties  of  any 
section  make  excellent  plants  from  good  cuttings  obtained  and 
inserted  now.  The  tardiness  with  which  some  varieties  produce 
cuttings  often  makes  it  imperative  that  late  propagation  should 
be  adopted.  If  cuttings  are  obtainable  earlier,  it  seems  reason¬ 
able  to  assume  that  if  they  are  of  a  small,  weak  character,  rather 
than  remove  and  insert  them  at  once,  it  is  better  to  allow  them 
to  extend  and  strengthen  while  yet  attached  to  the  parent  stools, 
affording  the  latter  a  favourable  position  near  the  glass.  The 
.stools  are  best  under  cover  in  a  more  or  less  cool  position,  accord¬ 
ing  to  what  is  best  to  bring  forward  the  cuttings  sturdily.  A 
little  steady  growth  maintains  the  sap  in  motion,  and  the  cut¬ 
tings  when  inserted  strike  more  easily.  Unless  the  cuttings  are 
specially  strong,  it  is  not  necessary  to  place  singly  in  small  pots, 
as  they  root  more  readily  round  the  sides  of  3in  pots  or  larger. 
Use  a  conipost  of  two  parts  loam  to  one  of  leaf  soil  and  sand,  and 
surface  with  sand.  Use  sucker  growths  if  possible,  about  3in  or 
4in  long,  and  shortened  to  a  joint.  Water  after  insertion,  and 
try  to  keep  the  cuttings  fresh  afterwards.  Serious  flagging  pre¬ 
vents  rooting.  The  best  position  for  the  cuttings  is  in  a  small 
heated  frame,  or  a  box  in  a  vinery,  in  which  panes  of  glass"  may 
be  laid  to  exclude  air.  Wipe  off  the  condensed  moisture  ever^' 
morning  from  the  glass.  As  the  cuttings  commence  rooting, 
afford  air  in  increasing  ciuantity,  until  the  glass  covering  can  be 
entirely  dispensed  with. 
Immediately  roots  become  plentiful,  the  first  potting  of  the 
plants  must  be  made.  Cuttings  inserted  some  time  ago  will  now 
be  ready  for  potting  singly.  Pots  2iin  in  size  are  the  most  suit¬ 
able  for  tbe  first  potting,  though  some  of  the  strong  rooting 
varieties  can  be  placed  at  once  in  larger  pots.  Employ  clean,  dry 
pots,  draining  them  with  one  crock  at  the  bottom  of  each,  covering 
with  a  layer  of  moss  or  rough  parts  of  compost.  The  latter  may 
consist  of  loam  two  parts,  leaf  soil  one  part,  with  a  moderate 
amount  of  sand,  and  a  sprinkling  of  wood  ashes.  “  Veltha,”  an 
antidote  against  rust  and  other  fungoid  diseases,  may'be  added 
to  the  soil  with  advantage,  for  it  is  better  to  commence  early 
with  such  preventives  as  these.  The  plants  may  be  thoroughly 
clean  and  free  from  the  disease,  but  the  spores  of  the  rust  may 
be  resting  in  the  soil.  To  be  doubly  safe,  also  dip  the  plants  in 
“  Veltha  Emulsion,”  and  no  harm  will  be  done  if  cuttings  are 
treated  the  same. 
Pot  the  plants  fairly  firm.  For  a  few  days  after  no  water 
should  be  needed,  but  water  with  a  rosed  can  when  the  soil  dries.. 
The  best  place  for  the  plants  is  a  frame  on  a  bed  of  ashes,  but 
they  would  do  for  a  time  on  a  shelf  near  the  glass  in  a  cool  house,, 
especially  should  the  severity  of  the  weather  preclude  frame  treat¬ 
ment.  Air  is  important  when  rooting  commences,  but  at  first 
keep  rather  close,  as  this  induces  a  start.  They  are  much  longer 
in  starting  growth  under  cold  frame  treatment  entirely,  hence 
where  a  slightly  heated  frame  is  not  available,  it  is  better  to. 
establish  them  first  on  a  greenhouse  or  vinery  shelf,  and  transfer 
to  a  cold  frame  later.  Protection  must  be  afforded  from  frosts,, 
as  any  check  to  active  growth  is  not  beneficial,  but  may  bring  on 
mildew.  When  air  is  afforded  during  cold  east  winds,  great  care 
must  be  taken  that  direct  draughts  do  not  do  harm.  It  will  be 
better  to  apply  air  the  opposite  side  to  that  tbe  wind  blows. — 
E.  D.  S. 
Notes  on  New  Japanese  Varieties. 
Mrs.  Thirkell. 
Tbe  narrow  florets  are  fringed  at  tbe  tips.  Tbe  colour  is  a  distinct 
and  pleasing  orange-yellow. 
Mrs.  C.  J.  Salter 
is  be.st  described  as  a  glorified  Cullingfordi,  wbicb  was  known  for 
years  as  tbe  finest  of  bright  coloured  varieties  for  decoration. 
Matchless 
is  perhaps  too  small  for  exhibition,  according  to  the  present  day 
standard.  Tbe  florets  are  narrow,  drooping  gracefully,  very  dark 
in  colour. 
Kitty  Baxter 
has  broad,  drooping  florets  wbicb  fold  inward  at  the  sides,, 
reminding  one  of  that  once  popular  variety,  Mons.  Astorg, 
in  its  general  formation,  but  is  immensely  superior.  The  colour 
is  pure  white,  with  a  cream-coloured  centre  as  the  florets  unfold. 
Mrs.  E.  Brown 
is  a  seedling  from  Mrs.  H.  Weeks,  thus  requiring  similar  treat¬ 
ment.  This  is  a  promising  variety  in  every  way.  The  florets 
curl  and  twist  at  the  point,  building  up  a  full,  solid  bloom.  The 
base  florets  are  flushed,  edged  and  lined  with  purple,  tbe  other 
portion  pure  white. 
Lord  Salisbury, 
altbougb  not  quite  new,  is  sufficiently  so  to  be  recommendedl 
amongst  the  novelties  of  the  season.  When  well  grown,  blooms 
measure  Sin  in  diameter ;  the,  petals  are  irregularly  twisted,  and 
the  colour  is  conspicuous — old  gold,  splashed  and  edged  with 
crimson. 
Silver  Queen 
has  pointed  florets  which  are  rather  loose.  The  colour,  as  its 
name  implies,  is  silvery  puik,  flushed  with  rose  on  the  surface. 
J.  McKellar  , 
somewhat  resembles  Mutual  Friend  in  the  formation  of  flower. 
The  florets  incurve  at  the  tip  and  are  rosy  pink. 
Sensation 
has  florets  ^in  in  width,  which  incurve  slightly  at  the  tip.  The 
colour  is  pleasing — gold  striped,  and  splashed  with  crimson. 
Edward  VII.,  as  a  novelty,  has  medium-sized  irregular  florets  of 
a  dull  crimson  colour. 
Mrs.  G.  Lawrence 
has  narrow  twiiding  florets  of  a  rich  yellow  colour.  Lady  Esther 
belongs  to  the  incurving  Japanese  section,  and  is  a  full-sized, 
creamy-white  flower.  May  Perkins  belongs  to  the  same  section, 
and  is  rich  yellow  in  colour. 
Princess  Bassaraba  de  Brancova 
has  florets  after  the  Mdme.  P.  Rivoire  type,  pure  white  and 
very  promising.  Nelly  Bean  reminds  one  in  its  formation  of 
Mrs.  E.  Mileham,  although  it  is  quite  distinct  from  that  variety. 
In  colour  it  is  especially  plea,sing,  being  a  shade  of  lavender  pink. 
Mrs.  Frank  Grey  Smith 
is  a  deep  orange  yellow,  flushed  with  bronze,  deeper  on  the 
surface  w'hen  unfolding.  Evelyn  Beauty  reminds  one  of  Progne 
in  colour — purple  amaranth. 
Marjorie 
has  creamy-white  florets,  which  have  a  warm  lilac  base.  A  full 
and  promising  variety.  Duchess  of  Sutherland,  orange  yellow,, 
long  curly  florets,  making  a  bold  full  flower. 
C.  Penford 
is  named  after  Mr.  C.  Penford,  Leigh  Park  Gardens,  near- 
Havant,  a  well-known  exhibitor,  and  the  raiser  of  that  estimable 
variety  General  Duller.  The  newcomer  is  a  reddish  crimsoH 
with  a  buff  reverse.  The  florets  being  long  and  drooping,  pro¬ 
duce  an  exceptionally  deep  bloom. 
Mrs.  E.  Hbmmel 
is  a  great  acquisition.  The  florets  are  extra  long.  The  colour  is 
somewhat  peculiar  to  description.  The  lower  florets  are  flushed 
amaranth,  the  upper  portion  a  pinky  white  shaded  yellow. 
In  the  next  issue  of  the  Journal  I  hope  to  describe  the  new 
varieties  of  incurved  which  have  lately  been  added_  to  this 
increasingly  popular  section ;  with  the  numerous  additions  that 
have  during  the  last  two  or  three  seasons  been  made  it  is  quite 
safe  to  say  this  section  has  increased  in  popularity.. 
— E.  Molyneux. 
(To  t#  continued.) 
