302 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
April  3,  1902. 
Poniological  Notes. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines— Earliest  Forced  Houses. 
The  very  early  vai’ieties,  such  as  Alexander,  \\aterloo,  Early 
Beatrice,  and  Early  Louise,  vill  soon  give  indications  of  ripening, 
when  syringing  must  cease,  and  the  leaves  that  shade  the  fruit 
be  drawn  aside,  raising  the  fruit,  if  necessary,  on  laths  placed 
across  the  wires  of  the  trellis,  so  that  its  apex  will  be  directly 
to  the  liglit.  Do  not  hurry  such  varieties  as  Hale’s  Early,  Stir¬ 
ling,  Royal  George,  and  Dymond  Peaches,  or  Early  Rivers,  Lord 
Napier,  and  Elruge  Nectarines  during' the  stoning  process,  hut 
continue  the  temperature  at  60deg  to  65deg  at  night,  70deg  to 
75deg  by  day  with  sun  heat,  and  about  65deg  in  the  daytime  in 
dull  weather,  avoiding  sudden  fluctuations  and  depressions.  Tie 
the  shoots  to  the  trellis  as  they  advance,  and  regulate  the  shoots 
for  future  bearing,  so  as  not  to  have  them  too  crowded,  as  by 
giving  the  shoots  ample  room  the  fruit  is  better  exposed  to 
the  sun  and  air,  and  the  wood 'for  another  year  is  stouter  and 
better  ripened.  Shoots  disposed  to  grow  more  than  14in  may 
have  the  points  pinched  off,  but  extensions  should  be  trained 
to  their  full  length.  When  the  stoning  is  over,  which  may  be 
ascertained  by  testing  a  few  fruits  with  a  knife,  the  crop  will 
require  regulating  for  the  final  swelling.  Very  vigorous  trees 
may  be  allowed  to  carry  more  than  one  fruit  to  each  square  foot 
of  trellis,  whilfe  weakly  trees  should  not  be  allowed  to  bear  so 
many.  Snpply  weakly  trees  with  liquid  manure,  the  inside  border 
in  any  case  being  kept  properly  watered,  mulching  the  surface 
with  a  little  Avell  decayed  manure.  This  Avill  secure  uniform 
moisture,  and  favour  the  surface  roots. 
Trees  Started  at  the  New  Year. 
The  fruit  should  be  thinned  to  a  few  more  than  is  required  for 
the  crop.  Avoid  sudden  checks  by  judicious  ventilation,  cold 
air  in  the  daytime  and  a  high  temperature  at  night  proving 
fatal  to  the  fruit  stoning.  A  night  temperature  of  60deg  to 
65deg,  and  55deg  on  cpld  nights,  and  6ddeg  by  day  in  dull 
weather,  with  70deg  to  75deg  from  sun  heat  is  quite  sufficient. 
Trees  Started  Early  in  February. 
Syringe  the  trees  occasionally  in  dull  weather,  and  twice 
daily  in  bright;  but  avoid  heavy  syringings,  especially  late  in  the 
afternoon,  as  the  water  remaining  long  on  the  leaves  interferes 
with  their  elaborating  functions,  and  may  destroy  the  tispes. 
Allow  a  temperature  of  65deg  to  60deg  in  mild  weather  at  night, 
ventilating  from  65deg,  permitting  an  advance  to  70deg  or  7odeg 
from  sun  heat,  but  with  full  ventilation.  Attend  to  disbudding, 
and  follow  it  up  day  by  day  until  only  the  shoots  required  for 
future  bearing  or  the  extension  of  the  trees  are  retained.  A 
shoot  may  be  left  at  the  base  of  those  now  bearing,  and  another 
on  a  level  with  or  above  the  fruit.  If  the  latter  is  not  required 
for  extension  it  should  be  stopped  at  a  few  joints  of  growth.  In 
the  case  of  trees  not.  full  grown,  it  will  be  necessary  to  leave 
shoots  about  Ifiin  distance  apart,  calculating  from  the  base  of  the 
last  year’s  growth,  to  form  the  bearing  shoots  of  next  year,  the 
terminals  being  trained  in  their  full  length  as  .space  permits. 
Avoid  crowding  the  growths,  as  they  become  weak  and  unfruitful. 
Commence  thinning  the  frnit  when  they  start  swelling,  removing 
the  .smallest  first  and  those  on  the  under  side  of  the  trellis, 
beginning  with  the  weakest  part  of  the  trees,  thinning  propor¬ 
tionately  more  than  on  stronger  wood,  which,  from  carrying  more 
fruit,  will  tend  to  equalise  the  vigour  of  the  tree.  Laying  in  the 
shoots  requires  to  be  done  early  and  carefully,  so  as  not  to  bring 
down  the  shoots  too  sharply,  yet  it  is  necessary  for  giving  the 
right  direction  to  the  growths,  and  in  securing  the  gi’owths  to 
the  trellis  space  must  be  left  for  their  swelling. 
Trees  Started  in  March. 
While  the  trees  are  in  blossom  it  is  well  not  to  syringe  them ; 
but  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  may  be  secui-ed  by 
damping  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning  and  early  after¬ 
noon.  Prevent  a  vitiated  atmosphere  by  providing  a  little  air 
constantly  through  the  top  ventilators.  Maintain  a  night  tem¬ 
perature  of  SOdeg,  falling  5deg  or  more  through  the  night  in 
severe  weather ;  SOdeg  to  56deg  by  day,  and  65deg  from  sun  heat. 
Latest  Houses. 
The  blossoms  being  abundant,  remove  those  on  the  under  side 
of  the  shoots.  Shake  the  trees  daily  fi’oni  the  first  pollen 
ripening  until  the  last  of  the  blossoms  requires  attention,  selecting 
the  early  part  of  fine  days  when  artificial  impregnation  is  resorted 
to,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  dust  every  blossom  when  the  pollen 
is  ripe  with  a  cameTs-hair  brush,  a  feather,  rabbit’s  tail  mounted 
on  a  stick,  or  a  small  plume  of  Pampas  Grass.  Any  trees  deficient 
of  pollen  should  have  it  taken  from  those  affording  some  plenti¬ 
fully,  such  as  the  small-flowered  vai’ieties.  Royal  George  Peach 
and  Elruge  Nectarine.  Maintain  the  temperature  at  40deg  to 
45deg  at  night,  50deg  to  5.5deg  by  day,  in  all  cases  accompanied 
by  slight  ventilation  at  the  top  of  the  house,  wHch  must  be 
increased  when  the  temperature  roaches  .lOdeg,  and  having  it  full 
at  Godeg. 
Unheated  Houses. 
The  trees  are  coming  into  blossom.  Ventilate  the  house  at 
50deg,  and  do  not  permit  an  advance  above  65deg  without  full 
ventilation  top  and  bottom,  and  close  the  house  at  50deg  in  mild 
weather;  but  when  there  is  a  prospect  of  frost  at  night  close  at 
65deg,  leaving  a  little  air  to  allow  of  moisture  escaping.  In 
mild  weather  leave  the  ventilators  open  constantly  when  the 
temperature  exceeds  50deg.  Remove  the  blossoms  on  the  under 
side  of  the  shoots  where  there  is  a  superabundance.— G.  A. 
Melons:  Earliest  Plants. 
The  first  Melons,  those  raised  from  seed  early  in  the  year  and 
planting  out  early  in  Eebruai’y,  are  setting  fruit  on  the  first 
laterals.  A  rather  drier  atmosphere,  and  no  more  water  than  to 
prevent  nagging,  with  an  increase  of  temperature  of  about  5deg, 
and  a  circulation  of  warm  air,  are  desirable  during  the  setting 
period.  The  flowers  should  be  fertilised  every  day  when  fully 
expanded,  pinching  out  the  points  of  the  shoots  one  or  two  joints 
beyond  the  fruit.  When  the  fruits  are  set,  and  about  the  size 
of  a  Walnut,  give  the  bed  a  thorough  watering,  and  in  a  day  or 
two  add  soil  to  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks,  pressing  it 
firmly,  and  again  supply  water.  Both  the  soil  and  water  should 
be  warmed  to  the  temperature  of  the  bed.  Stop  the  subsequent 
growths  toi  one  or  two  joints,  and  prevent  overcrowding  by 
rubbing  off  shoots  from  which  there  is  not  room  for  the  foliage  to 
have  full  exposure  to  light.  If  the  bottom  heat  be  increased  5deg, 
or  to  85deg,  it  will  assist  the  swelling  of  the  fruit.  Do  not  over¬ 
crop  the  plants,  but  leave  the  fruit  proportionate  to  their  vigour, 
two  on  weakly,  three  or  four  on  vigorous,  and  very  strong  plants 
may  carry  six  fruits.  The  night  temperature  may  be  65deg  to 
70deg,  75  deg  by  day,  ventilating  from  that  point,  increasing  to 
85deg  or  90deg,  do, sing  at  85deg,  sufficiently  early  to  increase  to 
90deg,  95deg,  or  lOOdeg.  Damp  the  house  in  the  morning,  syringe 
moderately  by  or  before  three  o’clock  on  bright  warm  afternoons, 
damping  available  surfaces  in  the  evening  with  liquid  manure. 
Plants  in  narrow  beds  will  require  plenty  of  liquid  nourishment, 
always  in  advance  of  the  mean  temperature  of -the  house,  and  top- 
dressings  of  rich  material. 
Successional  Plants. 
Train  the  growths  regularly,  remove  every  alternate  lateral, 
rubbing  them  off  directly  they  are  perceived,  the  remainder  being 
trained  tO'  the  right  anci  left  of  the  stems.  Pinch  out  the  points 
of  the  shoots  of  p|rimai'y  growth  after  they  have  extended  two- 
thirds  of  the  required  distance.  Increase  the  supply  of  moisture 
both  at  the  roots  and  in  the  atmosphere  as  the  days  lengthen. 
Pot  off  seedlings,  shift  into  larger  pots,  and  plant  out  as  required. 
Sow  more  seeds,  tO'  afford  plants  in  proportion  to  the  wants  of 
individual  establishments.  In  pits  and  frames  a  bottom  heat  of 
80deg  should  be  secured  to  plants  that  are  growing  freely,  renew¬ 
ing  the  linings  from  time  to  time  so  as  to  maintain  requisite 
heat.  In  newly  made  beds  the  bottom  heat  should  be  about 
90deg.— G.  R. 
Cucumbers:  In  Houses. 
Shade  will  be  neces,sary  from  bright  sun,  but  it  should  only 
be  used  for  a  few  hours  at  the  hottest  part  of  the  day,  and  only 
sufficient  to  prevent  flagging.  Assist  plants  in  fnll  bearing  v  itli 
frequent  applications  of  weak  tepid  liquid  manure,  and  add  fresh, 
warmed  soil  to  the  beds  occasionally.  Plants  in  bearing  for  any 
great  length  of  time  should  have  the  old  exhausted  soil  removed 
with  a  small  fork,  not  injui'ing  the  roots,’  adding  fresh  lumpy 
compost  previously  warmed.  Thin  out  the  exhausted  growths, 
and  encourage  fresh  bearing  shoots.  Expel  worms  with  lime  or 
soot-water,  a  peck  to  thirty  gallons  of  water,  stirred  well,  letting 
it  stand  forty-eight  hours,  then  watering  with  the  clear  liquid. 
Subdue  canker  at  the  collar  and  in  the  old  grow'ths,  by  nibbing 
quicklime  into  the  affected  parts.  Damp  the  floor  in  the  mormng 
between  seven  and  eight  o’clock,  syringing  the  foliage  gently  on 
warm  afternoons,  and  keep  liquid  manure  in  the  evaporation 
troughs,  xittend  to  stopping,  thinning,  and  training  at  least  once 
a  week.  Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65deg,  70deg  to  75deg 
by  day,  80deg  to  90deg  with  sun,  and  close  sufficiently  early  to 
maintain  the  latter  temperature,  or  even  rising  to  lOOdeg,  with 
abundance  of  atmospheric  moisture.  Ventilate  moderately  and 
early,  avoiding  sudden  changes  of  temperature,  also  currents  of 
cold  air,  which  cripple  the  foliage  and  cause  the  young  fruit  to 
become  deformed,  and  to  swell  irregularly.  Where  straight  fruit 
is  required  glasses  should  be  employed. 
Pits  and  Frames. 
The  requisite  heat  should  be  maintained  by  renewing  the 
linings.  Train  the  growths  rather  thinly,  pegging  them  down  as 
required,  and  stop  one  joint  beyond  the  show  for  fruit,  or  the 
leading  growths  about  1ft  from  the  sides  of  the  frame.  Add  fresh, 
warmed  soil  to  the  ridges  or  hillocks  as  the  roots  extend.  Be 
moderate  in  the  application  of  water,  as  the  nights  are  as  yet 
cold,  and  employ  thick  night  coverings.  Admit  a  little  air  early, 
so  as  to  have  the  foliage  dry  before  the  sun  acts  powerfully  upon 
it.  The  heat  through  the  day  may  range  from  80deg  to  90deg 
\rith  sun.  Close  early  in  the  afternoon  no  harm  accruing  if  tbe 
temperature  rises  to  90dog,  or  even  lOOdeg,  provided  there  is  no 
rank  steam.  If  there  is  danger  from  it,  admit  a  little  air  con¬ 
stantly,  a  small  opening  being  sufficient  to  allow  it  to  escape,  as 
it  is  veiy  light. — A.  G, 
