April  17,  1902, 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
351’ 
WOKK,f^theWEEK.. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
YOUNG  STRAWBERRY  BEDS. — Frequently  hoe  the  ground 
between  the  rows,  alike  to  destroy  weeds  and  encourage  the 
growth  of  the  plants.  Cut  off  runners  as  soon  as  they  appear. 
In  warm,  dry  weather,  newly  planted  ,  Strawberries  may  be 
watered,  but  avoid  saturating  the  roots  too  freely  if  the  plants 
are  but  sparsely  furnished  with  them. 
ESTABLISHED  STRAWBERRY  BEDS.— In  addition  to  the 
mulching  applied  between  the  rows,  liquid  manure  should  be 
applied  to  the  plants,  though  only  to  those  which  are  sh'owing 
flower.  Farmyard  liquid  manure,  diluted  if  too  strong,  contains 
much  excellent  nutriment  of  great  value  to  Strawberries 
approaching  flower  and  fruiting. 
PROTECTING  TREES  IN  BLOOM. — Preparations  must  be 
made  for  protecting  any  choice  bush,  pyramid,  or  cordon  Plum, 
Cherry,  or  Pear  trees  advancing  into  bloom.  The  slight  protec¬ 
tion  afforded  during  the  prevalence  of  very  wet  or  frosty  nights 
might  be  the  means  of  ensuring  a  good  set  of  fruit.  The  question 
of  adopting  the  best  means  of  protecting  trees  in  the  open  has 
to  be  considered.  It  is  obvious  that  only  dwarf  trees  can  be 
managed.  Arrange  round  them  tall  poles  or  stakes,  which  may 
meet  above  the  tops  of  the  trees  and  there  be  secured  together. 
Around  the  poles  wind  tiffany  or  canvas,  making  it  secure. 
APRICOTS. — Protection  may  still  be  continued  to  the  trees 
during  the  prevalence  of  untoward  weather,  and  especially  in 
positions  where  the  aspect  is  cold  and  bleak,  as  full  exposure  to 
cutting  draughts  of  easterly  winds  causes  blistered  leaves.  If 
fruit  has  set  well  on  the  trees  some  thinning  must  be  done, 
removing  the  inconveniently  placed  fruit  the  first,  carrying  out 
the  work  in  a  gradual  manner  until  the  frait  is  swelling  freely, 
and  has  passed  the  stoning  period.  Thinning  is  usually  com¬ 
menced  when  the  fruits  reach  the  size  of  horse  beans,  and  this 
stage  is  reached  the  soonest  by  those  trees  which  are  growing  in 
a  sheltered  and  favourable  aspect.  The  disbudding,  too,  of  the 
superfluous  shoots  also  must  be  attended  to.  Any  growths  which 
cannot  readily  be  laid  in,  instead  of  being  dispensed  with  entirely, 
can  be  shortened  to  a  few  leaves,  when  they  will  ultimately  form 
spurs.  Apricots  bearing  freely  on  these  as  well  as  young  ripened 
growths  of  the  previous  year.  The  latter  may  be  laid  in  accord¬ 
ing  to  their  suitability  and  position,  avoiding  overcrowding.  The 
Apricot  maggot  often  proves  troublesome,  and  search  should  be 
made  for  them  whenever  curled  leaves  indicate  their  presence. 
Immediately  black  or  green  fly  is  detected  on  young  shoots 
attempt  their  destruction  by  dusting  the  affected  parts  with 
tobacco  powder. 
DISBUDDING  PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES.— Good  ex¬ 
amples  of  these  trees  -on  walls  must  havfe  early  attention  in  the 
matter  of  subduing  superfluous  growths.  The  earliest  and  most 
vigorous  growths  are  to  be  found  on  the  upper  parts  of  trees, 
hence  attention  should  first  be  directed  to  these.  Rub  or  cut  out 
the  unsuitably  placed  first,  and  follow  on  with  the  reduction  of 
crowded  shoots.  When  young,  short,  and  sappy  it  is  not  difficult 
to  rub  them  off,  but  as  they  increase  in  strength  and  become 
woody  their  removal  must  be  effected  by  cutting.  Some  .shoots,  in 
the  case  of  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  as  Avell  as  Apricots,  though 
not  suitable  for  laying  in,  are  yet  worth  retaining  in  a  .shortened 
condition,  eventually  forming  spurs.  These  ought,  however,  to 
be  limited  in  number,  for  the  production  of  fruit  on  jmung  wood 
is  preferable.  Regularity  in  furnishing  the  space  and  ensuring  the 
be.st  trained  .trees  is  secured  by  training  the  growths  only  from 
the  upper  .sides  of  branches.  Strong,  sappy  growths  ought  to 
be  rubljed  oft’  early,  especially  those  springing  from  dormant 
buds.  They  can  seldom  be  utili.sed  as  fnriting  shoots,  but  Avhen 
well  placed,  and  are  required,  they  will  form  the  foundation  for 
permanent  branches,  thus  coming  in  useful  in  old  trees  when  a 
renewal  of  branches  is  found  to  be  necessary.  One  or  two  may 
be  retained  Avith  this  end  in  vieAV,  and  if  not  rvanted  ma}'  be 
discarded  at  the  Avinter  pruning. 
DISBUDDING  PLUMS  AND  CHERRIES.— Plums  and 
Cherries,  Avhen  established  on  Avails,  are  invariably  trained  Avith  a 
limited  number  of  branches,  on  Avliich  spurs  are  originated. 
Growths  alAvays  issue  from  these  in  far  greater  quantity  than 
can  possibly  be  retained  in  regard  to  the  health  of  the  trees, 
because  overcroAvding  must  result.  Therefore,  take  the  earliest 
opportunity  to  reduce  these,  selecting  the  Avorst  placed  for 
romoA^al,  effecting  this  a  little  at  a  time.  The  additional  space 
thus  provided  for  Avhat  are  to  he  the  permanent  shoots,  Avill 
cause  them  to  groAv  more  .sturdily  and  have  larger  leaves  at  the 
loAvor  part  of  shoots  to  Avhich  they  must  eventually  be  shortened. 
Disbudding  is  an  excellent  means  of  shaping  and  training  young 
trees,  Avhether  on  Avails  or  in  the  open.  It  avuII  save  the  produc¬ 
tion  of  much  unnecessary  groAvth.  Morello  Cherries,  which  are 
grown  on  Avails,  may  be  treated  in  the  matter  of  disbudding  the 
same  as  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  though  more  shoots  may  be 
retained  as  growths  are  trained  more  closely,  but  avoid  over¬ 
crowding.  The  best  growth  at  the  base  of  a  fruiting  shoot  is  the 
one  to  preserve,  but  rub  out  all  others,  except  the  leading, 
growth  above  the  fruit,  Avhicli  is  necessary  to  clraAV  the  sap  to- 
the  fruit. — East  Kent. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
VINES:  EARLY  FORCED  HOUSE.— If  the  Vines  are  in-^ 
fosted  Avith  red  spider  give  a  timely  syringing  Avith  paraffin 
emulsion,  2oz  to  a  gallon  of  hot  water,  and  used  in  a  tepid  state; 
This  is  a  rather  tedious  process,  yet  it  is  the  safest  and  best 
remedy.  Syringing,  even  betAveen  the  bunches,  Avith  the  clearest 
Avater,  spoils  the  appearance  of  the  Grapes  for  table  or  market 
purposes,  and  employing  sulphur  on  the  hot-Avater  pipes  is  some¬ 
times  attended  AAutli  serious  discolouration  in  Avhite  Grapes. 
Afford  a  thorough  supply  to  the  inside  border,  applying  it  early 
in  the  day,  so  that  surplus  moisture  may  pass  off  before  closing 
time.  Avoid,  hoAvever,  making  the  soil  sodden  and  sour,  as  this 
usually  results  in  shanked  berries.  A  light  mulch  of  dry  material 
Avill  prevent  moisture  arising  prejudicial  to  the  Grapes,  but  we 
use  rather  fresh,  yet  well  sAveetened,  short  litter  from  the  stables, 
and  it  prevents  the  soil  cracking,  and  encourages  surface  roots. 
Early  Grapes  do  not  alwa.ys  colour  Avell,  the  defect  chiefly  arising, 
from  overcropping  or  continued  hard  forcing  year  after  year,  and 
often  from  attacks  of  red  spider :  it  is  only  avoided  by  moderate- 
cropping,  rational  treatment,  and  cleanly  culture.  A  constant 
supply  of  rather  Avarm  and  dry  air,  Avith  a  Ioav  night  temperature, 
Avill  do  much  to  assist  heavily  cropped  Vines  in  colouring  the 
Grapes.  W’hen  the  Grapes  are  fully  ripe  a  redviction  of  tempera— 
ture  is  advisable,  but  a  temperature  of  60deg  i.s  essential  to-  the 
after  welfare  of  the  Vines,  and  moderate  moisture  should  be 
maintained  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage.  The  moisture  Avill  not 
do  the  Grapes  any  harm,  provided  free  ventilation  is  given. 
SUCCESSION  HOUSES.— The  stopping  and  tying  of  the 
shoots  must  have  attention.  Where  the  space  is  restricted,  stop 
the  shoots  tAAm-  joints  beyond  the  fruit,  and  as  foliage  is  neces¬ 
sary  to  sustain  root  activity,  leave  the  laterals  on  the  shoot  both 
above  and  below  the  bunch,  or  at  least  those  from  the  tAvo  loAver- 
most  eyes,  and  those  level  AV'ith  and  above  the  bunch.  Pinch, 
these  at  the  first  joint,  especially  those  from  the  basal  leaves,  also 
those  above,  unless  there  is  space  for  extending  the  laterals,  Avlieiij 
they  may  be  alloAved  to  make  tAVO-  or  three  lea\ms,,  but  no  more 
growth  must  be  encouraged  than  can  liaAm  full  exposure  to  light 
and  air.  After  the  space  is  fairly  funiished,  keep  the  groAvths 
closely  pinched  to  one  joint  as  made. 
TYING  DOWN.— It  is  a  good  plan  to  have  the  rods  some¬ 
what  lower  than  the  trellis,  so  that  the  shoots  from  the  side  have 
a  slight  incline  upwards.  In  tying  these  in  the  places  Avhere  they 
are  to  remain  during  the  summer,  it  is  a  common  practice  to 
begin  tying  them  doAvn  as  soon  as  they  are  long  enough  to  bend. 
This  is  not  advisable  unless  as  a  precaution  against  injury  from 
frost,  as  the  shoots  at  this  stage  are  so  tender  that  the  slightest 
tAvist  the  Av-rong  way  breaks  them.  It  is  a  good  method  to  defer 
tying  doAAm  until  the  shoots  are  less  sappy,  AA'hich  may  be  Avhen 
tile  bunches  are  shoAving  clear  of  the  leaves.  Sufficient  space 
should  be  left  in  the  ligature  for  the  SAvelling  of  the  shoots. 
Stopping  ought  to  commence  Avhen  the  leaf  at  the  joint  or  place 
of  pinching  is  the  size  of  a  halfpenny. 
VINES  IN  FLOWER.— Afford  Muscats  a  froe  circulation  of 
rather  dry  air  and  a  temperature  of  SOdeg  to  Sodeg  or  90deg  by 
day  from  sun  heat,  TOdeg  to  75deg  otherwise,  and  65deg  to  7Udeg 
at  night.  Raise  the  points  of  the  bunches  to  the  light,  and 
liberate  the  pollen  at  mid-day  by  gently  rapping  the  footstalks- 
of  the  bunches,  or  go  over  the  bunches  carefully  Avith  a  large-- 
sized  camel’s-hair  brush,  so  as  to  remoA'e  the  ‘‘  cups,”  and  after- 
Avards  dust  them  Avith  another  charged  AA'ith  Alicante  pollen,  or 
that  of  some  different  variety  of  a  free  setting  nature.  Ham- 
burghs  set  freely  in  a  loAver  temperatui-e,  but  they  are  better 
for  a  little  assi, stance  from  fire  heat,  and  other  A-arieties  are 
similarly  aided  during  the  flowering  period. 
THINNING  BUNCHES  AND  BERRIES.— It  is  advisable  to 
make  a  selection  of  the  best  bunches,  and  leave  only  those 
required  for  the  crop  before  they  come  into  floAver.  This  con¬ 
centrates  the  forces  of  the  \  ines  on  those  retained,  and  by 
proper  attention  to  fertilising  the  floAvers  a  good  set  and  finer 
bunches  and  berries  are  secured.  Thinning  the  berries  should 
commence  as  soon  as  they  are  set,  especially  in  the  case  of  the 
free-setting  varieties,  and  Avhere  fine  specimens  are  required  for 
exhibition,  it  should  be  attended  to  Avhilst.  they  are  in  floAver. 
With  the  shy  setters  thinning  should  be  deferred  until  the  pro¬ 
perly  fertilised  can  be  distinguished  by  their  taking  the  lead  in 
SAvelling.  FoIIoav  it  up  on  dull  days,  or  early  and  late  jn  bright 
Aveather.  Remove  surplus  bunches,  under  rather  than  over¬ 
cropping  the  Vines,  as  too  hear-y  cropping  is  fatal  to  colour  and., 
finish. 
