4 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
July  4,  1901. 
Notes  on  Chrysanthemums. 
Placing  the  main  stock  of  plants  in  their  flowering  pots,  as  well 
as  those  which  have  been  cut  down  and  are  now  breaking  into 
growth,  claims  the  attention  of  growers  at  the  present  time.  The 
largest  plants  and  the  strongest  rooting  varieties  should  be  dealt  with 
first,  these,  of  course,  becoming  root-bound  the  soonest.  They  must 
be  thoroughly  well  moistened  before  potting,  especially  those  plants 
which  have  formed  a  compact  mass  of  roots,  and  are  in  a  measure 
somewhat  pot-bound.  Such  as  these  will  materially  suffer  later  on 
if  placed  in  the  pots  with  the  soil  and  roots  dry.  It  is  best  to 
emphasise  the  importance  of  this,  as  to  endeavour  to  moisten  plants 
after  the  final  potting  leads  to  ui  due  saturation  of  the  new  compost, 
and  washes  out  much  of  its  fertility  before  new  roots  have  had  time 
to  enter  it.  The  plants,  too,  should  be  thoroughly  free  from  insects, 
black  or  green  fly  being  the  chief  pests  now  prevalent.  To  destroy 
them  lay  the  plants  on  their  sides  and  sjringe  with  a  softsoap  and 
tobacco  solution,  or  dip  their  infested  points  in  a  similar  solution. 
Dusting  with  tobacco  powder  will  destroy  them,  afterwards  syringe 
with  clear  water. 
The  compost  for  the  final  potting  should  be  of  a  substantial 
character.  Good  turfy  loam,  in  the  proportion  of  three  parts  to  one 
of  decayed  manure  and  one  of  leaf  soil,  is  good.  Add  to  this  half  a 
part  of  pulverised  mortar  rubbish,  and  a  quarter  of  wood  ashes  and 
silver  coarse  sand.  Soot  is  of  much  value  in  improving  the  compost, 
but  must  not  be  used  too  freely.  A  6-inch  potful  to  a  bushel  of-  soil 
is  sufficient.  Use  also  the  same  quantity  of  bonemeal.  Thoroughly 
incorporate  the  ingredients  by  mixing  several  times,  and  bring  it  toT;he 
proper  state  of  moisture  by  sprinkling  with  water  as  the  mixing  proceeds. 
The  most  suitable  sized  pots  tor  blooming  the  plants  in  are  8  and 
9-inch  pots.  Some  of  the  weaker  growers  and  small  plants  may  have 
7-inch  size,  while  a  few  of  the  strongest  growers  and  largest  plants 
may  have  10-inch  pots,  or  two  plants  from  small  pots  can  be  arranged 
together  in  the  latter  size.  On  turning  out  the  plants  for  potting,  take 
away  the  drainage  crocks  at  the  base  and  loosen  a  few  of  the  roots  at 
the  sides  especially  if  more  than  ordinarily  pot-bound.  Drain  the 
pots  carefully,  but  not  too  liberally,  and  cover  with  fibrous  portions  of 
the  compost.  Over  that  a  slight  dusting  of  soot  tends  to  keep  away 
worms,  and  acts  as  food  material  for  the  roots  when  later  on  they 
push  down  to  it.  Introduce  soil  to  the  required  height  for  arranging 
the  ball  of  roots  upon,  making  it  fairly  firm.  The  loose  roots  should 
be  spread  out  in  a  careful  manner  ;  place  the  soil  round  the  ball  in 
layers,  and  make  each  firm  with  a  potting  stick.  Ample  room  must 
be  left  to  supply  water,  and  the  furnishing  of  a  top-dressing  of  rich 
material  in  early  autumn  to  encourage  surface  roots.  At  the  time  of 
potting  place  a  stake  to  each  plant. 
The  treatment  accorded  to  cut-down  plants  nicely  breaking  into 
growth  may  be  the  same  as  for  tall  specimens.  Limit  the  number  of 
growths  upon  them  to  about  four  of  the  best.  Arrange  the  pots  on  a 
firm  ash  bed,  or  in  lines  on  boards  ;  give  no  water  at  first,  but  syringe 
the  plants  daily.  In  a  few  days,  however,  should  the  weather  be 
sunny,  a  copious  watering  will  be  necessary,  as  flagging  of  the  foliage 
must  be  prevented.  When  the  growth  becomes  established  and  free 
arrange  the  plants  permanently  for  the  summer. — S. 
Early  Flowering  Chrysanthemums. 
Outdoor  early  flowering  varieties  of  Chrysanthemums  are  making 
good  growth  where  they  were  planted  in  May.  .Remove  very  weakly 
growths,  and  maintain  the  soil  clean  and  free  from  weeds.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  keep  constantly  watering  such  as  are  well  established. 
The  later  planted  may  require  copious  supplies  at  intervals  until 
established  should  the  weather  be  hot  and  dry. — E. 
Amorphophallus  tltanum  at  Xew. — For  the  first  time  since 
1889  a  flower  of  this  remarkable  Aroid  has  been  produced  at  Kew. 
The  present  specimen  will  be  found  in  the  Victoria  Regia  house.  The 
flower  of  1889  (the  first  ever  seen  at  Kew)  was  5  feet  long  to  the  tip 
of  the  spadix,  the  spathe  being  3  feet  long  and  4  feet  across.  The 
tuber  weighed  57  lbs.,  and  was  6f  feet  around.  The  infloresoence  of 
the  present  plant  reaches  4  feet  high.  The  first  records  of  the  plant 
were  published  twenty-three  years  ago  by  a  Dr.  Beccari,  who  found  the 
Aroid  in  Sumatra.  The  leafstalk  of  this  wonderful  plant  has  been 
known  to  grow  17  feet  high,  with  a  “  leafage  spread  ”  of  45  feet  round. 
There  is  a  picture  of  the  plant  on  the  ceiling  of  the  Wood  Museum  at  Kew. 
Notes  on  Figs  Under  Glass. 
Second  Crops. — The  fruits  on  early  forced  trees  have  now  swelle  1 
to  a  good  size,  and  in  order  to  secure  a  number  of  fine  Figs 
they  must  not  be  overcropped,  keeping  the  foliage  free  from  insects 
and  feeding  the  roo's  liberally.  Early  forced  planted  out  trees 
should  have  the  you-  g  wood  ripened  and  be  resting  by  the  middle 
of  October,  there  not  being  anything  like  a  good  rest  for  Fig 
trees.  Borders  that  have  become  dry,  or  inclined  that  way,  must  be 
watered  to  bring  them  into  a  moist  condition  down  to  the  drainage. 
Liquid  manure  will  be  required  by  trees  having  the  roots  in  borders 
of  limited  extent.  Mulch  lightly,  not  more  than  an  inchdoep,  and 
keep  damped  when  it  becomes  dry,  so  as  to  encourage  surface  roots. 
[Syringe  daily,  except  in  cold  weather,  when  morning  or  early  afternoon 
syringing  will  be  sufficient  to  keep  down  red  spider,  but  if  it  gets  a 
hold  destroy  by  means  of  an  insecticide.  Maintain  a  night  temperature 
of  60°  to  65°,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day.  Ventilate  early,  especially  on 
bright  mornings.  Keep  the  house  through  the  day  at  80°  to  85°  with 
sun  heat,  and  close  sufficiently  early  to  run  up  to  90°  or  even  95°, 
providing  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture. 
Succession  Houses. — Where  the  fruit  changes  colour,  afford  more 
air,  insuring  a  circulation  constantly.  Reduce  the  moisture  gradually, 
keeping  it  from  ihe  fruit,  as  with  this  ripening  “  spot  ”  is  very  liable 
to  present  itself  at  the  apex.  The  fruit  cannot  be  exposed  too  much 
to  the  influence  of  light  and  air  in  order  to  insure  high  quality. 
Lessened  supplies  of  water  at  the  roots  tell  in  favour  of  high  quality 
yet  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  suffer  for  lack  of  it.  Trees  swelling 
their  crops  will  be  benefited  by  a  light  mulching  of  short  material  over 
the  routs,  and  through  this  supply  liquid  manure  in  the  case  of  trees 
carrying  heavy  crops  of  fruit.  In  fine  weather  syringe  twice  a  day, 
always  in  good  time,  and  close  so  as  to  run  up  to  90°,  95°,  or  100°.  As 
the  fruit  approaches  ripening  provide  a  little  ventilation  before  nighttall, 
and  let  it  remain,  increasing  it  early. — Grower. 
Melons. 
Plants  swelling  their  fruits  require  liberal  supplies  of  water,  and 
copious,  but  not  overdoses,  of  liquid  manure ;  all  points  considered, 
there  is  not  any  better  than  the  drainings  of  stables  and  cowhouses, 
adding  to  each  gallon  of  neat  liquid  4  ozs.  of  superphosphate  of  lime, 
and  diluting  with  five  times  the  bulk  of  water  for  use  ;  failing  this, 
Peruvian  guano,  1  cz.  to  a  gallon  of  water,  is  excellent  for  feeding 
purposes,  and  also  for  charging  the  hot- water  pipe  troughs,  or  damping 
the  house  occasionally  in  the  evening,  but  not  using  more  than  a 
gallon  to  about  7  square  yards  of  floor,  bed,  or  wall  surface.  Light 
top-dressings  of  the  advertised  fertiliser  are  also  excellent,  adding  fresh 
soil  to  the  ridges  or  hillocks  as  the  roots  protrude,  and  always  warmed. 
I  like  this  old-fashioned  plan,  as  the  plants  are  always  kept  well  in 
hand,  and  there  is  no  occasion  to  employ  more  compost  than  is 
absolutely  necessary,  a  point  of  some  importance  where  loam  has  to 
be  purchased.  To  concentrate  the  energies  of  the  plant  on  the  fruit 
the  laterals  should  be  pinched  at  each  joint  or  two  of  growth.  By 
syringing  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon,  and  damping  well  down 
before  nightfall,  red  spider  will  be  kept  in  check.  Mildew  and  white 
fly  are  best  subdued  by  brushing  a  little  sulphur  on  the  hot-water 
pipes,  and  heating  them  to  over  170°  ;  and  aphides  by  fumigating. 
Canker  yields  to  timely  rubbing  with  quicklime. 
Of  all  Melons  I  consider  the  highest  quality  are  produced  in  frames. 
The  rage,  however,  is  all  for  hot- water  heating.  Still,  where  there  are 
frames  and  fermenting  materials  at  command  they  should  be  utilised, 
though  this  is  the  age  of  “drift”  rather  than  of  utilisation.  Young 
plants  recently  put  out  will  give  useful  fruit  in  August  or 
September.  It  is  well  to  train  the  plants  with  four  shoots,  two  being 
taken  to  the  front  and  two  to  the  back  of  the  frame,  keeping  the 
laterals  rubbed  off  to  about  6  inches  from  the  stem,  and  pinching  the 
main  shoots  when  12  to  15  inches  from  the  sides  of  the  frame.  The 
laterals  will  show  fruit  at  the  first  or  second  joint,  and  the  flowers 
being  fully  expanded  fertilise  them  about  noon  on  a  fine  day,  leaving 
a  little  air  od  constantly  to  prevent  the  condensation  of  moisture  on 
the  blossoms,  a  moist,  close  atmosphere  being  fatal  to  a  good  set. 
Sprinkle  the  plants  in  the  afternoon  of  fine  days  with  clear  soft  water, 
closing  about  3.30  P.M.  to  4  p.m.,  or  so  early  as  to  raise  the  temperature 
to  90°,  95°,  or  100°,  and  ventilate  early  in  the  day,  or  from  7.30  a.m. 
to  8  a.m.,  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  90°,  and  reduce  the 
ventilation  gradually.  A  sharp  look-out  should  be  kept  for  aphides. 
Red  spider  will  not  appear  if  the  plants  are  kept  properly  moist. 
Be  careful  to  keep  water  from  the  collar  of  the  plants,  as  it  conduces 
to  canker.  If  this  appears  on  the  stem  rub  quicklime  into  the 
affected  parts  until  they  are  quite  dry,  and  repeat  as  occasion  requires. 
Under  the  foregoing  conditions  excellent  fruit  may  be  looked  for  in 
due  time,  and  they  will  be  found  very  useful  for  desser  . — A. 
