•68 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
July  18,  1901. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Vines. — In  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — The  canes  for  starting  the 
'first  week  in  November,  to  ripen  the  fruit  in  March  or  early  in  April, 
should  by  this  time  have  completed  their  growth,  and  must  not  have 
any  more  water  than  will  prevent  the  foliage  from  becoming  limp. 
Expose  fully  to  light  and  air,  so  as  to  thoroughly  ripen  the  wood  and 
the  buds.  If  the  laterals  have  been  allowed  to  extend  with  a  view  to 
thickening  the  cane,  they  must  be  brought  back  gradually  by  cutting 
away  part  at  a  time,  reducing  each  by  degrees  to  one  leaf.  The  Vines 
should  be  kept  free  from  insects,  syringing  occasionally  if  red  spider 
appear,  for  it  is  important  that  the  leaves  perform  their  functions. 
When  the  wood  becomes  brown  and  hard  place  the  Vines  on  a  board  or 
slates  in  front  of  a  south  wall,  securing  the  canes  to  its  surface  to 
prevent  the  foliage  being  damaged  by  wind.  Afford  water  only  to 
prevent  the  leaves  flagging,  out  away  the  laterals  close  to  the  cane,  and 
in  a  few  days  shorten  the  cane  to  the  length  required.  The  principal 
leaves  must  not  be  injured,  but  left  to  die  off  naturally.  The  best 
varieties  for  early  forcing  are  White  Frontignan,  Foster’s  Seedling, 
Black  Hamburgh,  and  Madresfield  Court.  Later  Vines  should  be 
encouraged  to  make  a  good  growth  and  perfect  it,  keeping  them  clean, 
also  exposed  to  all  the  light  and  air  possible.  They  must  not  be  over¬ 
watered,  nor  neglected  for  due  supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure. 
Cut -back  Vines  are  much  the  best  for  early  forcing,  as  the  canes  make 
an  earlier  and  sturdier  growth,  and  perfect  it  sooner  than  others. 
This  is  important,  for  the  Vines  have  more  rest  and  start  with  greater 
regularity. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — It  is  not  advisable  to  force  Vines 
year  after  year  to  ripen  their  crops  before  May  or  June,  and  houses 
which  are  started  in  December  or  at  the  new  year,  to  afford  ripe  fruit 
at  the  times  mentioned  respectively,  are  best  planted  with  varieties  that 
ripen  together,  the  structures  being  only  of  sufficient  size  to  admit  of  a 
supply  of  Grapes  for  a  period  of  not  more  than  six  to  eight  weeks. 
This  is  as  long  as  black  Grapes  will  hang  under  a  May,  June,  and  July 
sun  without  turning  red,  or  white  Grapes  from  becoming  brown  on  the 
exposed  side  of  the  bunches,  even  when  a  slight  shade  is  afforded  from 
sun.  Such  arrangement  admits  of  the  foliage  being  cleansed  with  water 
from  a  syringe  or  engine ;  but  when  there  are  late  as  well  as  early 
varieties  in  the  house,  the  dry  atmosphere  that  must  be  maintained  on 
their  account  when  the  Grapes  are  ripening  causes  red  spider  to  increase 
on  the  foliage,  and  this  is  very  disastrous  to  present  and  future  crops 
of  Grapes.  Early  Vines  that  ripened  their  crops  in  May  or  early  June 
will  soon  be  cleared  of  Grapes.  They  should  be  thoroughly  cleansed, 
employing  an  insecticide  if  necessary,  and  the  foliage  be  preserved  in 
health  as  loDg  as  possible  by  occasional  syringing,  full  ventilation 
constantly,  and  due  supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure  at  the  roots. 
Muscats  Ripening. — Unless  the  season  is  exceptionally  fine,  and  the 
Vines  started  early,  Muscats  require  fire  heat  to  insure  their  perfect 
maturation,  even  when  ripening  at  the  hottest  part  of  the  year.  The 
time  taken  by  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and  Canon  Hall  to  ripen  is  not 
less  than  six  to  eight  weeks  from  commencing  to  colour,  and  if  the 
Grapes  are  extra  fine,  and  the  Vines  in  vigorous  health,  perfect  finish  is 
not  had  for  some  time  longer.  They  require  time,  with  assistance  from 
fire  heat,  so  as  to  secure  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  75°  to  85°  by 
day,  up  to  90°  or  more,  with  abundance  of  air.  A  rather  dry  atmo¬ 
sphere  is  essential  to  the  attaining  of  that  golden  hue  characteristic  of 
rich  and  full  Muscat  flavour.  This  is  secured  by  free  ventilation,  a 
little  constantly,  but  the  atmosphere  must  not  become  arid,  damping 
down  occasionally.  In  large  houses  the  moisture  arising  from  the 
borders  is  enough,  except  in  hot  weather,  then  the  paths  and  borders 
should  be  damped  daily.  Too  much  moisture  is  fatal  to  Muscats  when 
ripening,  causing  them  to  “  spot,”  therefore  it  is  necessary  to  have  a 
gentle  warmth  in  the  hot -water  pipes,  and  a  little  air  constantly  to 
prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries.  Abundant  supplies 
of  water  must  be  given  to  the  roots,  for  when  there  is  a  deficiency  of 
moisture  the  Grapes  shrivel.  With  the  borders  properly  constructed, 
and  the  drainage  thorough,  too  much  water  can  hardly  be  given  at  the 
roots,  after  the  leaves  are  full  sized,  until  the  Grapes  are  well  advanced 
in  ripening.  Needless  waterings,  however,  are  baneful,  causing 
shanking  ;  and  driblets,  mere  damping  of  the  surface,  very  ineffective, 
doing  quite  as  much  harm  as  good,  besides  being  deceptive  of  the  right 
indication  of  the  soil  beneath  as  regards  moisture. 
I  oung  Vines. — Canes  planted  this  season  should,  provided  they  are 
to  be  cut  down  to  the  bottom  of  the  trellis,  leaving  three  buds  there  for 
furnishing  a  continuation  of  the  rod,  and  two  side  shoots  for  bearing 
next  year,  be  allowed  to  grow  unchecked,  so  as  to  secure  a  good  root 
formation  and  sturdy  stems.  Any  Vines  intended  for  producing  full 
crops  next  season,  on  the  extent  considered  sufficiently  stout  in  rod, 
should  have  the  laterals  issuing  from  the  side  of  the  buds  towhioh  they 
are  to  be  shortened  stopped  to  one  leaf,  and  the  principal  leaves  kept 
free  of  growths.  If  permanent  Vines,  the  cane  need  not  be  shortened 
till  it  has  grown  to  the  top  of  the  house,  cutting  back  at  the  winter 
pruning  to  three  good  buds  from  the  bottom  of  the  rafter  or  trellis,  and 
only  allowing  the  side  growths  to  bear  each  a  bnnoh  of  Grapes  in  the 
second  year  to  prove  the  variety,  taking  the  leading  growths  forward 
without  cropping.  Supernumeraries  intended  for  next  year’s  bearing, 
and  then  to  be  removed,  should  be  stopped  at  a  length  of  7  to  9  feet, 
pinching  the  laterals  to  one  leaf,  and  sub-laterals  in  like  manner. 
These  ought  to  be  shortened  in  September,  and  by  degrees  out  away 
dose  to  the  oane,  and  in  a  fortnight  afterwards  the  Vines  should  be 
pruned  to  the  first  plump  bud  below  the  first  stopping,  leaving  the  old 
leaves  to  die  off  naturally.  Thorough  ripening  of  the  wood  is  important, 
a  free  circulation  of  air  being  necessary,  with  fire  heat  if  the  weather 
be  cold  and  wet. — St.  Albans. 
He  Kitchen  Garden. 
Cucumbers. — If  kept  in  a  free  growing  and  active  condition  at  the 
roots,  Cucumbers,  both  in  houses  and  frames,  will  continue  in  a  free 
bearing  state.  The  requirements  consist  in  pruning  out  exhausted 
growths  entirely,  removing  useless  and  yellow  leaves,  and  disposing 
new  growths  over  the  space  available,  stopping  these  from  one  to  two 
joints  beyond  the  fruits.  The  roots  must  be  occasionally  stimulated  by 
weak  applications  of  liquid  manure,  and  encouraged  to  increase  and 
multiply  fresh  and  aotive  fibres  by  top-dressings  of  rich  soil  mixed  with 
a  little  artificial  manure.  A  moist  atmosphere  must  prevail  in  order  to 
prevent  attacks  of  red  spider,  and  also  for  the  welfare  of  the  plants. 
Vegetable  Marrows. — These  are  now  in  a  very  aotive  condition  of 
growth,  and  are  likely  to  oontinue  so  if  the  roots  remain  moist. 
Maintaining  a  moist  root  run  for  them,  and  a  little  regulation  of  the 
growths  to  prevent  crowding,  is  really  all  that  is  necessary  to  enable 
them  to  continue  productive,  with  the  exception  of  cutting  the  fruits  as 
soon  as  large  enough  for  use.  If  the  latter  remain  to  grow  large  they 
take  considerable  support  from  others  which  are  ready  to  follow. 
Young  fruits,  with  soft  skins  and  tissue,  are  much  better  for  use  than 
large,  old,  and  hard  fruits.  Give  water  copiously  as  required ;  in  dry, 
poor  soil,  and  during  a  dry  period,  it  may  be  every  day,  though  in 
many  cases  a  good  soaking  twice  weekly  will  meet  all  requirements. 
Carrots. — The  main  crop  of  Carrots  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds* 
and  crowded  plants  removed.  A  mulching  of  short  lawn  grass  proves 
valuable  in  retaining  moisture.  This  is  a  good  season  to  sow  a  crop  of 
Early  Horn  for  late  autumn  and  winter  use.  Ground  recently  cleared 
of  some  early  crop,  suoh  as  Potatoes,  where  the  soil  was  deeply 
cultivated,  will  be  the  best.  See  that  it  is  perfectly  free  from  rubbish 
and  strong-rooting  weeds,  and  rake  off  rough  stones,  making  the  whole 
level.  Draw  the  drills  a  foot  apart,  and,  if  the  weather  be  dry,  rather 
deeper  than  for  spring  sowing.  The  object  of  this  is  that  the  drills 
may  be  soaked  with  water  previous  to  sowing  the  seed.  Scatter  the 
latter  thinly,  and  cover  with  dry,  fine  soil. 
Turnips. — A  few  rows  of  White  Dutch  Turnips  should  be  sown. 
Select  ground  where  the  soil  is  rich,  make  it  fine  on  the  surface,  draw 
drills,  and  moisten  with  water,  afterwards  dusting  slightly  with  super¬ 
phosphate,  and  sow  the  seed.  Germination  soon  ensues.  Thin  as  soon 
as  possible,  continuing  gradually,  and  promote  growth  by  light  Dutch 
hoeings. 
Leeks.  — If  the  full  crop  of  Leeks  has  not  been  planted  more  plants 
must  be  placed  out.  It  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  plant  in  trenches, 
though  this  method  insures  plenty  of  food  and  moisture,  resulting  in  the 
production  of  fine  stems,  which  may  be  blanched  higher  than  those 
planted  on  the  surface.  Give  water  and  liquid  manure  to  well 
established  plants. 
Celery. — The  earliest  rows  may  be  well  soaked  with  water  and  liquid 
manure.  After  this  chop  down  soil  and  place  it  round  the  stems,  first 
tying  them  together  with  strips  of  raffia  grass,  which,  however,  must 
not  be  drawn  tightly,  but  so  that  the  centres  have  room  to  extend,  and 
the  stems  meeting  closely  prevent  soil  reaching  the  hearts.  To  have 
early  blanched  roots  it  is  important  to  oontinue  the  earthing  from  time 
to  time,  but  soil  should  never  be  placed  higher  than  the  hearts.  Trim 
off  suckers  and  the  lower  leaves  from  any  rows  advanced  enough  to 
need  attention,  and  wherever  dryness  of  the  soil  is  apparent  water 
copiously.  Plant  out  the  latest  Celery  at  once. 
Potatoes. — Where  the  tops  of  early  Potatoes  have  died  completely 
down  lift  the  tubers ;  keep  those  for  use  cool  and  away  from  light. 
Seed  tubers  may  be  fully  exposed  to  air  and  light,  whereby  the  skin  will 
become  green,  hard,  and  well  ripened.  Clear  away  the  old  and  dead 
haulm,  leaving  the  ground  as  clean  as  possible  after  the  orop  has  been 
cleared. 
General  Work. — Late  Peas  and  Beans  should  have  the  sticks  placed 
to  them  for  supporting  the  growths.  Water  as  necessary,  and  a  muloh- 
ing  to  retain  the  moisture.  Fill  vacancies  with  autumn  Brooooli, 
Savoys,  Curled  Greens.  Sow  Lettuce  and  Endive,  Parsley,  Spinach, 
and  a  pinch  of  early  Cabbage  in  the  south,  while  a  good  bed  should  be 
sown  in  the  north.  The  outdoor  crop  of  Tomatoes  should  be  kept  well 
moistened  at  the  roots,  affording  also  liquid  manure  to  heavily  cropped 
plants. — Lymington,  Hants. 
