August  1,  1901. 
115 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
yORKJQitTHEWEEK.. 
IS 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Vines. — In  Pots  for  Early  Forcing. — To  have  ripe  Grapes  from  Vines 
started  in  November,  by  the  end  of  March  or  early  in  April,  the  canes 
ought  now  to  have  the  wood  thoroughly  brown  and  hard,  buds  well 
developed  and  somewhat  prominent,  with  foliage  assuming  the  sere  and 
yellow  condition.  If  not,  keep  the  house  rather  warmer  by  day,  80°  to 
85°,  with  ventilation,  closing  the  ventilators  considerably,  in  the  early 
part  of  the  afternoon,  to  raise  the  temperature  to  90°  or  95°,  and  opening 
them  fully  at  night.  Thip,  and  the  full  exposure  of  the  foliage  to  light, 
will  induce  maturity.  Supply  water  or  liquid  manure  to  prevent  the 
foliage  becoming  limp,  but  do  not  give  it  until  the  soil  is  getting  dry. 
Lateral  growths  must  be  kept  in  check,  leaving  only  enough  to 
appropriate  any  excess  of  sap,  and  so  prevent  the  principal  buds 
starting.  When  sufficiently  ripened,  as  they  are  when  the  wood 
becomes  brown  and  hard  and  the  buds  are  plump,  they  should  be 
lemoved  to  a  position  outdoors  in  the  full  sun.  Place  them  on  a  board 
or  slates  in  front  of  a  south  wall,  fence,  or  building,  and  secure  the  canes 
to  the  face  of  the  wall,  only  giving  water  to  prevent  the  leaves  falling 
prematurely.  Have  some  waterproof  material  at  hand  to  throw  off 
the  rain  from  the  pots  in  case  of  heavy  showers  occurring.  In  this 
position,  or  even  in  a  house  ventilated  to  the  fullest  extent,  they  will 
rest  without  the  leaves  being  shed,  provided  they  are  not  kept  too 
moist.  When  the  leaves  turn  yellow,  commence  reducing  the  laterals, 
and  the  leaves  having  all  fallen,  prune,  cutting  the  laterals  close  to  the 
cane;  avoid  injuring  the  buds,  and  cut  the  cane  back  to  the  length 
required,  or  from  6  to  8  feet.  Dress  all  the  cuts  with  patent  knotting. 
The  Vines  should  be  placed  in  a  cool,  airy,  dry  place  until  required 
for  forcing.  Dryness  at  the  roots  is  advisable,  but  the  soil  must  not 
become  so  much  devoid  of  moisture  as  to  cause  the  wood  to  shrivel, 
and  the  needful  precaution  must  be  taken  against  frost. 
Earliest  Forced  Planted-out  Vines. — A  dry  atmosphere  is  now 
necessary,  which  will  be  secured  by  full  ventilation  and  the  withholding 
of  atmospheric  moisture  by  discontinuing  the  dampings  or  occasional 
syringings.  All  laterals  must  be  kept  stopped  and  the  house  cool, 
ith  moderate  dryness  at  the  roots.  Where  the  Vines  are  in  an 
unsatisfactory  condition  preparation  should  be  made  for  lifting,  getting 
fresh  loam  and  clean  drainage,  so  that  the  work  may  be  quickly 
performed.  When  the  Vines  have  the  run  of  outside  and  inside 
borders,  one  part  only  ought  to  be  operated  on  at  once,  the  inside  one 
year,  and  the  outside  the  next.  This  prevents  loss  of  orop,  but  when 
the  roots  are  all  inside  there  is  no  help  for  it  but  to  lift  the  Vines 
bodily,  and  when  this  is  done  carefully  the  crop  of  the  following  year 
will  not  be  materially  prejudiced.  The  Vines  will  need  pruning  by  the 
middle  of  September,  or  when  lifted  a  little  later. 
Grapes  Ripening. — Many  Grapes  swell  considerably  whilst  ripening, 
therefore  a  moist,  but  not  saturated,  condition  of  the  borders  is 
important.  Give  the  needful  supplies  of  water  or  liquid  manure,  always 
in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  so  that  the  superfluous  moisture  may  be 
dissipated  before  night.  Heavily  cropped  Vines  should  be  allowed 
time,  and  be  supplied  with  phosphatic  matter,  such  as  dissolved  bones, 
dry  and  crumbling,  with  a  little  potash  and  magnesia.  Three  part  s  super¬ 
phosphate  or  dissolved  bones  is  good,  and  two  parts  double  sulphate  of 
potash  and  magnesia,  mixed,  applying  3  or  4  czs.  per  square  yard,  and 
working  in  lightly.  The  bones  will  supply  sufficient  nitrogen  at  this 
stage,  and  the  fertiliser  will  not  only  help  the  current  crop  but  supply 
matter  for  storing,  to  proht  the  Vines  in  the  following  season.  A  good 
rest  at  night  in  a  temperature  of  G0°  to  65°  with  air,  is  a  great  aid  to 
Vines  taxed  to  the  utmost  by  weight  of  Grapes.  A  moderate  amount 
of  air-moisture  also  is  essential  to  the  health  of  the  Vines,  sprinkling 
the  paths  and  borders  occasionally,  and,  if  possible,  allow  the  laterals  to 
extend.  Full  or  overcropped  Vines  rarely  can  cater  for  more  than 
the  principal  leaves  and  Grapes.  Admit  air  constantly,  enough  with  a 
gentle  heat  in  the  pipes  to  insure  a  circu'aiion,  and  maintain  a 
temperature  by  day  of  70°  to  75°,  keeping  through  the  day  at  80°  to  85° 
or  90°  with  sun,  and  full  ventilation. 
He  Kitchen  Garden, 
Cabbage. —  The  spring  crop  of  Cabbage  must  now  be  sown  on  a  piece 
of  ground  that  is  moderately  rich  and  open.  Dig  up  the  ground  well 
and  bring  it  into  a  pulverised  condition,  then  afford  a  copious  watering. 
Scatter  the  seed  thinly  and  evenly  on  the  Burface,  and  cover  with  a 
layer  of  fine  soil.  Should  the  weather  be  very  hot  and  dry,  shade  the 
ground  with  mats  until  the  germination  of  the  seed  commences,  then 
remove  them  and  maintain  the  soil  moist  afterwards.  A  steady  growth 
is  essential,  and  will  produce  good  plants.  Sutton’s  Flower  of  Spring, 
Ellam’s  Dwarf  Early,  Wheeler’s  Imperial,  Dicksons’  Perfection,  Webbs’ 
Emperor,  and  London  Market  are  excellent  for  present  sowing. 
Celery. — Forward  rows  of  white  Celeiy  may  now  be  finally  earthed, 
so  that  well  blanched  sticks  may  be  procurable  early  in  September. 
Previous  to  giving  the  final  moulding  up,  however,  thoroughly  soak  the 
roots  with  water  or  liquid  manure,  seeing,  however,  that  the  hearts  are 
not  saturated  at  the  time  the  soil  is  placed  about  them,  which  should 
also  be  kept  from  the  centres.  Sucoessional  rows  should  also  be  trimmed, 
watered,  and  a  little  fresh  material  chopped  down  about  the  plants  and 
carefully  drawn  round,  first  drawing  the  leaves  together  with  strands  of 
raffia  grass,  not  too  tightly.  The  trimming  should  consist  of  removing 
sucker  growths  and  short  basal  leaves  previous  to  the  first  placing  of 
soil  round  the  plants. 
Endive. — Where  Endive  is  appreciated  a  sowing  should  be  made  of 
the  Broad-leaved  Batavian  or  Green  Curled.  It  is  best  sown  in  drills 
drawn  a  foot  apart,  and  moistened  before  sowing,  just  covering  with 
dry  soil.  Thin  out  the  seedlings  before  crowding  takes  place. 
Lettuce. — Seedling  Lettuce  for  an  autumn  supply  should  be  well 
thinned  out  where  the  seedlings  stand  thickly  together,  but  it  ought  to 
be  done  before  they  beoome  drawn  and  spoiled.  Make  a  sowing  of  a 
row  or  two  for  succession,  and  to  stand  the  winter.  The  hardy  varieties 
are  best  for  this  purpose,  including  Hardy  Hammersmith,  Winter 
White  Cos,  All  the  Year  Bound  Cabbage,  and  Black-seeded  Bath  Cos 
and  Brown  Cos. 
Winter  Greens. — Curled  Kale,  Coleworts,  and  Savoys  may  still  be 
planted  out,  though  the  earlier  this  is  done  the  better.  Afford  liquid 
manure  at  the  time  of  planting,  and  afterwards,  if  available,  this 
materially  enriohing  the  soil.  Hoeing  the  surface  between  the  rows  of 
plants  whenever  the  surfaoe  hardens  maintains  a  suitable  condition 
for  encouraging  growth. 
Broccoli. — Rapid  and  luxuriant  growth  is  not  so  desirable  for  thepe 
as  steady  progress  and  stocky  plants.  If  any  plants  still  remain  to  be 
placed  out  insert  them  on  firm  ground.  On  such  ground  planting 
cannot  usually  be  carried  out  with  a  dibber,  hence  it  is  desirable  to 
form  holes  with  a  crowbar.  Insert  the  roots  straight  down,  work  some 
soil  amongst  them,  and  water  freely. 
Late  Peas. — Encourage  the  growth  of  late  Peas  by  mulching  the 
soil  down  each  side  of  the  rows  with  manure,  and  water  freely  with 
liquid.  Lack  of  moisture  in  the  soil  will  cause  them  to  fail. 
Beans.  —Scarlet  Runner  Beans  will  succeed  well  if  due  precautions 
are  taken  to  maintain  the  soil  moist.  Copious  applications  of  water 
and  liquid  manure  are,  therefore,  essential,  followed  by  a  thick  mulching 
of  manure.  Freely  gather  the  pods  as  they  become  ready,  allowing 
none  to  remain  on  the  plants  to  become  old.  Dwarf  Beans  are  now 
over,  hence  the  old  plants  may  be  pulled  up.  A  sowing  may  be  made 
in  a  frame,  which  will  furnish  a  few  gatherings  late  in  the  season. 
Parsley. — Simple  as  the  cultivation  is,  this  crop  is  sometimes  very 
scarce  owing  to  missing  suitable  opportunities  for  sowing.  The 
present  time  is  a  very  good  period  to  sow  a  few  rows,  or  to  scatter  the 
seed  broadcast  on  a  bed.  In  very  dry  weather  water  the  bed  or  drills 
well  first.  The  seed  has  time  to  germinate  and  grow  to  a  fair  size 
before  winter,  and  in  spring  an  excellent  bed  is  obtained,  which  will 
last  through  the  summer  with  only  a  small  proportion  of  plants  running 
to  seed. 
Onions. — The  tops  of  Onions  which  are  still  green,  may  be  bent 
over,  and  this  will  assist  in  the  maturation  of  the  bulbs  previous  to 
lifting  the  crop.  Ground  for  sowing  Tripoli  Onions  may  be  well  dug 
over,  not  adding  much  manure.  Sowing  may  be  carried  out  shortly. 
Publications  Received. — Summer  number  of  the  “North  British 
Agriculturist,”  containing  thirty-one  portraits  of  leading  agricultural 
men  of  the  North ;  supplement,  July  10th.  “Journal  of  the  Depart¬ 
ment  of  Agriculture  of  Western  Australia,’’  June,  1901  ;  contents  : 
Cultivation  of  Lucerne,  Raisin  oulture,  Injurious  effects  of  certain 
grasses  to  live  stock,  Fruit  tree  pruning,  Poultry  feeding  experiments,  &o. 
“Seventh  Annual  Report  on  Field  Trials,  1900,  of  the  Agricultural 
Department  of  Reading  College ;  ”  contents  :  Manure  for  hay  and 
pasture,  Manures  for  rotation  crops,  Seeds  for  hay  and  pasture, 
Manuring  of  crops,  Notes  on  Manures  ;  the  author  is  Mr.  Douglas 
A.  Gilchrist,  B.Sc.,  F.R.S.E.  “  Gartenflora,”  July  15th,  1901.  “  Annual 
Report  of  the  Proceedings  under  the  Sale  of  Food  and  Drug  Acts,  1875 
to  1899  ;”  “The  Merchanaise  Marks  Acts,  1887  to  1894;”  “The 
Fertilisers  and  Feeding  Stuffs  Act,  1893;”  and  “  The  Board  of  Agri¬ 
culture  Act,  1889  ”  (section  2,  sub-section  3),  by  the  Intelligence 
Division  of  the  Board  of  Agriculture  for  the  year  1900 ;  the  price  is 
3d.,  through  any  bookseller,  or  from  Messrs.  Eyre  &  Spottiswoode. 
“  Rhineland,”  published  at  30,  Fleet  Street,  E.C.,  no  price  stated;  it  is 
a  small  pamphlet.  “  The  South  Sea  Islands;  Notes  of  a  Trip,”  by  Mr. 
R.  Cheesman  of  Brighton  Nurseries.  The  contents  of  this  exceedingly 
interesting  publication  desoribe  what  Mr.  Cheesman  saw,  and  in  part 
what  he  did,  and  information  on  a  variety  of  subjects  relating  to 
natural  history,  botany,  biology,  &c.,  during  a  seven  weeks’  tour  through 
the  New  Hebrides  group  of  islands.  The  publication  is  in  peculiar, 
soft  brownish,  gilt-paper  covers.  We  may  have  more  to  say  about  the 
booklet.  “  The  Leader,”  Melbourne,  June  8th,  1901.  “  The  Florists’ 
Exchange.”  “  Handbook  of  the  Destructive  Insects  of  Victoria,”  Part 
III.,  French,  2s.  6d.;  a  marvel  at  the  price,  laden  with  beautiful  coloured 
plates  of  birds  and  insects.  “  Holidays  in  Belgium,  with  Brussels  and 
the  Ardennes.”  “  Pacific  Coast.  Fruit  World.”  Cassell’s  “  Dictionary 
of  Gardening,”  Part  III.,  contains  a  coloured  plate  of  Coleus  thyrsoideus, 
and  numerous  illustrations,  price  7d.  “Board  of  Agriculture  Leaflets,” 
68  and  69,  on  “Currant  Aphides”  and  “  Tent  Caterpillars”  ;  these  oan 
be  had  free  from  4,  Whitehall  Place,  London,  S.W. 
