JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE.  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  8,  1901. 
12  '> 
Figs  under  Glass. 
Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. 
As  soon  as  the  second  crop  of  fruit  is  gathered  examine  the  treee 
for  red  spider  and  scale,  as  keeping  the  soil  somewhat  drier  at  the 
roots,  and  the  atmosphere  being  drier  in  consequence  of  a  free 
circulation  of  air,  these  pests  increase  to  an  alarming  extent.  They 
are  almost  certain  infestors  of  Fig  trees  in  beated  structures,  and 
however  alert  the  cultivator  may  be,  these  enemies  get  ahead  during 
the  ripening  of  the  fruit.  Theiefore,  when  the  fruit  is  cleared  off  the 
trees  recourse  must  he  had  to  cleansing,  and  as  the  foliage  and  wood  is 
far  advanced  in  ripening  destructive  agents  may  be  employed  at  a 
strength  that  would  not  be  scfe  at  an  earlier  stage.  If,  therefore, 
these  pests  have  made  undesirable  progress  it  will  be  advisable  to 
syringe  the  trees  with  an  insecticide,  those  advertised  being  effectual 
only  if  care  is  taken  to  follow  the  instructions.  Or  dissolve  lb.  of 
softsoap  in  a  gallon  of  rain  water  by  boiling,  and  whilst  in  that  state, 
but  removed  from  the  fire,  add  1  gill  (quarter  pint)  of  paraffin  oil, 
stirring  briskly  until  amalgamated,  then  dilute  with  hot  water  to 
4  gallons.  When  cool  enough,  130°  to  135°,  apply  by  means  of  a 
sprayer  (for  economy  of  liquid),  or  syringe  so  as  to  wet  every  part  of 
the  trees,  the  under  as  well  as  the  upper  side  of  the  leaves,  and  all 
the  wood.  To  prevent  the  mixture  soaking  into  the  soil  a  little  dry 
moss  may  be  placed  tied  round  the  stem,  and  then  a  sort  of  pyramid 
of  the  same  placed  about  the  plants.  If  the  wood  is  badly  inlested 
employ  a  somewhat  stiff  brush  for  freeing  it  of  scale  whilst  wet.  In 
bad  cases  repeat  this  within  a  day  or  two,  afterwards  syringing 
thoroughly  with  tepid  water.  The  trees  will  only  need  water  to 
prevent  the  foliage  becoming  limp,  ventilating  to  the  fullest  extent 
day  and  night,  but  protect  the  trees  from  heavy  rams,  which  have  a 
tendency  to  growth  instead  of  securing  that  rest  essential  for  those 
subjected  to  early  forcing. 
Early  Forced  Planted-out  Trees. 
When  the  second  crop  is  ripening  a  circulation  of  air  will  be 
needed  constantly,  more  by  day  than  at  night.  If  dull  weather  and 
wet  prevail,  a  gentle  heat  in  the  hot-water  pipes  make  all  the 
difference  between  well-ripened  and  insipid  fruit.  It  also  often  makes 
immunity  or  otherwise  from  “spot”  certain  or  uncertain.  Watering 
at  the  roots  must  be  diminished  and  syringing  discontinued,  but  a 
moderate  air  moisture  may  be  maintained  for  the  benefit  of  the  foliage. 
If  red  spider  is  present,  and  there  is  heat  in  the  hot-water  pipes,  coat 
those  thinly  with  a  cream  formed  of  sulphur  and  skim  milk,  which, 
by  the  fumes  given  off,  is  inimical  to  red  spider,  and  also  to  “  spot  ” 
fungus  germs  or  spores.  A  good  syringing  may  also  be  given  after 
the  fruit  has  been  picked  close,  choosing  a  time  when  there  is  a 
prospect  of  the  moisture  not  remaiLing  long  on  the  trees.  As  soon 
as  the  fruit  is  all  gathered  the  trees  may  have  a  good  washing  with 
the  syringe  or  engine,  to  free  the  foliage  of  dust  and  red  spider, 
otherwise  a  circulation  of  dry  warm  air  should  be  maintained  in  the 
house  until  the  foliage  commences  falling  naturally,  and  which  must 
not  be  accelerated  by  allowing  the  soil  to  become  dust  dry  at  the 
roots. 
Unseated  Houses. 
When  Fig  trees  are  grown  against  walls  the  crops  are  not  always 
satisfactory,  especially  in  a  wet  season,  but  covering  such  trees  with 
glass  usually  results  in  the  produce  of  Figs  i  f  the  highest  quality. 
Structures  with  a  south  aspect  are  the  most  suitable,  and  to  have  the 
trees  thoroughly  under  command  the  roots  must  be  restricted  to 
narrow  borders,  one-third  the  width  of  trellis  being  ample,  and  not 
more  than  2  feet  deep,  over  plenty  of  drainage  of  a  calcareous  nature. 
The  border  may  consist  of  good  substantial  loam,  with  about  one-fifth 
of  old  mortar  rubbish  and  one-sixth  of  road  scrapings  incorporated. 
The  calcareous  matter  is  essential  to  the  formation  of  nitrate  of  lime 
in  the  soil,  and  sand  is  an  important  constituent  in  building  up  the 
structure  of  the  trees.  With  unobstructed  light,  and  provision  for 
free  ventilation,  Figs  of  the  highest  excellence  may  be  obtained,  if  the 
usual  attention  is  given  to  watering  and  feeding  with  liquid  manure 
as  required.  It  is  also  necessary  that  the  growths  be  thin,  acting  on 
the  extension  system,  but  securing,  by  judicious  stopping,  a  fair 
amount  of  spurs,  and  in  no  case  allowing  more  growths  to  be  made 
than  can  have  full  exposure  to  light.  The  fruit  is  now  advanced  in 
swelling,  and  every  pains  should  be  taken  to  keep  the  foliage  free 
from  red  spider.  This  may  be  effected  by  forcible  syringings  early  in 
the  afternoon,  but  do  not  syringe  it  if  there  is  no  prospect  of  the 
foliage  becoming  dry  before  night.  Under  such  circumstances  damp 
the  border,  especially  in  the  afternoon,  and  occasionally  with  liquid 
manure. 
Admit  air  early,  increasing  it  with  the  sun  heat,  maintaining 
through  the  day  a  temperature  of  80°  to  85°,  with  free  ventilation, 
closing  early  so  as  to  run  up  to  90°  or  95°,  or  even  100°,  and  when  the 
sun  is  declining  a  little  air  may  be  admitted  at  the  top  of  the  house,  so 
as  to  allow  the  pent-up  moisture  to  esca^-  the  temperature  gradually 
cooling  down.  Water  or  liquid  manure,  according  to  circumstances, 
will  be  required  about  once  a  week  or  oftener,  in  order  to  keep  the  soil 
in  a  properly  moist  condition.  When  the  fruit  begins  to  ripen  lessen 
the  supply  of  water  and  discontinue  syringing,  securing  a  circulation 
of  air  constantly,  and  freely  ventilate  when  favourable.  Husband  sun 
heat,  which  will  not  do  any  harm  if  the  atmosphere  is  not  confined,  a 
little  ventilation  being  given  so  as  to  allow  of  the  moisture  escaping 
instead  of  condensing  on  the  fruit  and  causing  it  to  crack  and  mould. — 
Grower. 
- - 
Lilies  for  Ifeavy  Soils. 
There  are  between  sixty  and  seventy  known  species  of  Lilium,, 
besides  others  which  have  not  yet  been  classified,  while  much  remains 
to  be  done  in  the  exploration  of  districts,  principally  in  Chins,  known 
to  be  rich  in  the  genus.  Some  of  these  sixty  or  seventy  species,  too,, 
contain  many  varieties.  This  magnitude  of  the  family  becomes  more 
wonderful  when  we  reflect  that  the  genus  Lilium  does  not  include 
many  flowers  we  usually  term  Lilies — e.g..  Day  Lily  (Hemerocallis), 
St.  Bruno’s  Lily  (Anthericum),  Plantain  Lily  (Funkia),  African  Lily 
(AgapaUthus),  and  many  others.  It  is  strange  that  the  southern 
hemisphere  has  given  us  .no  Lilies  proper,  but  perhaps  it  is  not  so 
strange  that  all  come  from  the  temperate  zone  of  the  northern 
hemisphere  (except  Lilium  philippinense  and  two  or  three  little 
known  ones  from  the  East  Indies),  considering  that  nearly  all  of 
them  like  partial  shade  and  a  cool  moist  bottom.  Such  being  the 
nature  of  Lilies,  it  follows  that  it  is  possible  to  grow  practically  all  of 
them  outdoors  in  this  country. 
A  factor,  however,  which  limits  the  choice  for  tie  heavy  soils 
which  we  are  going  to  cater  for,  is,  that  many  will  only  grow  in  peat 
or  in  a  peaty  soil,  and  some  only  in  a  swamp.  But,  fortunately  for 
the  English  amateur  who  has  only  a  clay  6oil  at  his  disposal,  there  are 
some  Lilies  which  will  grow  in  any  soil,  and  others  which  can  be 
induced  to  do  so  with  a  little  extra  attention.  Such  matchless  flowers 
as  Lilies,  with  their  stateliness,  grace,  and  beauty  of  form  and  colour, 
often  accompanied  by  a  delicious  scent,  are  surely  worth  a  little  more 
consideration  than  we  give  to  the  generality  of  flowers.  And  yet  few 
flowers  need  less  attention  than  many  Lilies  do  when  once  established 
in  a  congenial  soil  and  position.  It  is  no  unusual  thing  in  cottage 
gardens,  where  some  Lilies  find  such  congenial  homes,  for  clumps  of 
Lilies  to  grow  for  a  generation  without  being  touched.  The  fact  is,  no 
Lilies  like  having  their  roots  interfered  with,  however  necessary  it  may 
be  sometimes  for  manuring  or  division  of  clumps,  some  even  refusing  to 
show  themse.ves  above  ground  for  a  year  afterwards.  Yet  few  flowers 
repay  more  liberally  just  a  moderate  compliance  with  their  wishes. 
But  revenons  a  nos  moutons. 
First  and  foremost,  alike  the  most  common,  and  to  many  people 
the  most  beautiful,  comes  the  white,  or  Madonna  Lily  (Lilium 
candidum).  Such  expressions,  “fair  as  a  Lily”  and  “Lily-white 
hands,”  must  have  originated  when  this  was  the  only  Lily  grown  in 
this  country,  and  thiB  must  have  been  the  extent  of  the  introduction 
of  Lilies  up  to  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century,  as  Shakespeare  uses 
the  whiteness  of  Lilies  as  an  apt  simile.  This  Lily  seems  to  almost 
prefer  cottage  gardens  to  the  gardens  of  the  great,  for  nowhere  is  it  to 
be  seen  in  greater  beauty  than  in  the  former.  Fortunately  it  will 
thrive  on  the  heaviest  soils,  and  the  secret  of  success  with  it  on  such 
soils  is  to  deeply  dig  the  ground  before  planting,  and  to  mix  with  it  a 
good  dressing  of  rotted  manure,  with  some  leaf  mould  and  road  sand. 
When  planted  in  such  a  medium,  and  previously  sprinkled  with  dry 
flowers  of  sulphur  to  keep  the  disease  away,  it  must  be  left  alone, 
when  each  bulb  will  become  a  clump  in  about  five  years.  On  an 
Essex  clay  soil  I  had  one  stem  this  year  with  eighteen  flowers  upon 
it,  and  several  with  fifteen  or  sixteen,  and  I  was  surprised  at  the  Lily 
Show  at  Chiswick  to  see  that  the  finest  specimens  of  the  white  Lily 
there,  had  no  more  than  a  dozen  bloc  ms  on  a  stem,  and  smaller  blooms 
too.  It  should  be  planted  in  August,  or  September  at  the  latest,  if 
bloom  are  desired  for  the  first  season,  care  being  taken  to  secure 
English  grown  bulbs,  as  the  French  ones  are  more  liable  to  the  fell 
disease,  which  is  so  much  on  the  increase. 
A  Lily  which  is  only  less  common  than  the  white  one,  is  the 
Orange  Lily  of  cottage  gardens,  Lilium  croceum.  It  may  truly  be 
said  of  this  Lily  that  it  will  grow  anywhere,  though  to  get  it  in 
perfection — 4  or  5  feet  high,  with  a  dozen,  or  even  twenty,  blooms  on 
a  stem — it  should  be  put  in  a  fairly  damp  place,  where  the  ground 
has  been  deeply  dug  and  heavily  manured.  It  is  perhaps  the  most 
gross  feeder  of  all  Lilies  if  it  has  the  opportunity,  thriving  almost 
upon  a  subsoil  of  manure.  It  needs  two  to  three  years  to  attain  its 
maximum  growth,  when  it  is  a  really  fine  sight.  It  is  seldom  seen, 
however,  in  its  perfection,  as  it  rarely  has  much  trouble  bestowed 
upon  its  cultivation,  not  being  regarded  as  worth  it.  Another  common 
