150 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
August  15,  1901. 
Current  Notes. 
With  healthy,  free  growing  plants  that  are  filling  the  pots  with 
roots,  there  is  but  little  difficulty  in  the  watering,  as,  immediately  the 
s-urface  soil  dries,  a  copious  supply  of  water  may  be  given  to  moisten 
the  whole  mass.  It  is  otherwise  with  overpotted  plants  or  those  that 
have  not  yet  fully  occupied  the  space  with  roots.  The  supply  of 
water  must  not  be  given  so  frequently,  and  though  the  surface  may 
appear  dry,  on  examination  it  may  be  seen  that  this  is  somewhat 
misleading,  for  the  bulk  of  soil  below  retains  ample  moisture.  The 
best  criterion  of  such  pots,  as  to  the  necessity  for  watering,  is  to  sound 
them  by  a  smart  rap  with  the  knuckles,  when  a  dull,  heavy  sound 
\  ill  indicate  that  no  water  is  required ;  a  hollow  ring  that  moisture 
is  needed.  The  condition  of  the  rooting  power  of  various  plants  is 
soon  seen  by  observing  the  pots  for  several  days  after  a  heavy  down¬ 
pour  of  rain.  Those  plants  with  plenty  of  roots  will  dry  up  the 
quickest,  while  the  others  with  few  roots  remain  comparatively  wet 
lor  some  time.  Let  these  dry  out  before  applying  water.  Plants 
in  very  small  pots,  when  once  established  in  them,  dry  up  very 
quickly,  and  water  should  be  given  on  the  least  appearance  of 
dryness. 
The  time  has  now  arrived  when  liquid  manure  or  sprinklings  of 
artificial  preparations  are  necessary  and  beneficial  to  sustain  plants 
healthy  and  vigorous.  These  stimulants,  however,  must  not  be  given 
when  the  soil  in  the  pots  is  dry.  It  must  be  made  moist  first  with 
clear  water.  The  virtues  in  the  stimulant  are  then  retained  for  the 
benefit  of  the  roots.  Stimulants  must  not  be  given  too  freely  at  first. 
Occe  or  twice  a  week  will  suffice,  and  then  it  should  be  in  a  weak 
condition.  Liquid  animal  manure  is,  perhaps,  as  good  as  anything 
to  begin  with,  of  the  colour  and  strength  of  pale  ale.  It  should  be 
given  clear  and  not  in  a  muddy  state.  A  mixture  of  cow  manure, 
horse  and  fowl  dung,  may  be  placed  in  a  bag,  tied  securely,  and  sunk  in 
a  30  gallon  tank  of  water.  A  peck  of  manure  will  be  sufficient  for 
t  his  amount  of  water.  Stir  frequently  for  a  few  days,  then  allow  to 
settle,  and  the  solution  will  be  ready  for  use.  Should  it  appear  too 
strong  dilute  with  water,  as  it  is  really  best  to  give  it  weak  rather 
than  powerful  so  as  to  destroy  roots.  Changing  the  stimulants  given 
is  always  good  for  Chrysanthemums,  hence  a  tub  of  soot  water  should 
also  be  prepared  in  a  similar  manner.  A  peck  of  fresh  pungent  soot 
placed  a  bag  in  a  30-gallon  tub  of  water  will  shortly  make  a  beneficial 
manure.  A  little  lime  introduced  to  the  water  and  stirred  in  is  an 
admirable  means  of  clearing  it,  so  that  it  will  appear  like  wine.  This 
is  very  good  for  Chrysanthemums,  and  may  be  given  alternately  with 
other  stimulants.  A  solution  made  of  sheep  manure  may  be 
occasionally  applied,  giving  it  weakly  and  not  too  frequently.  In 
addition  to  these,  light  top-dressings  of  Clay’s,  Standen’s,  and  other 
artificial  mixtures  can  be  used,  watering  in  the  dressing.  At  present, 
however,  it  is  not  desirable  to  gorge  the  soil  with  rich  food,  particularly 
during  the  time  the  buds  are  forming.  After  they  have  made  a  start 
in  swelling  is  the  best  period  to  commence  giving  stimulants.  The 
side  shoots  on  the  main  stems  ought  to  be  gradually  rubbed  out  on 
all  the  large  flowering  varieties,  confining  the  energies  of  the  plants 
to  the  production  of  principal  blooms. 
Dead  leaves  on  the  plants  are  good  hiding  places  for  earwigs,  so 
allow  none  to  remain.  Weeds  growing  in  the  pots  abstract  food  and 
moisture ;  therefore,  while  still  comparatively  small,  pull  them  out. 
Securing  the  stems  to  the  supports  must  be  attended  to,  anticipating 
the  rough  winds  which  are  sure  to  occur  about  this  time  and  shortly. 
Do  not  tie  too  closely  to  the  tops,  as  a  little  freedom  given  will 
prevent  snapping  and  breaking  of  the  stems. — E.  D.  S. 
Xiove  of  Nature. — The  garden  around  the  late  W.  J.  Stillman’s 
cottage  in  the  Surrey  Pine  woods  was  in  itself  a  charming  evidence  of 
the  affectionate  remembrance  in  which  he  always  held  his  native 
America.  His  endeavour  was  to  have  as  many  American  trees,  shrubs, 
and  flowers  as  could  be  taught  to  grow  in  the  English  climate.  His  pet 
squirrels  were  to  be  fed  on  nuts  from  American  trees,  wild  berry  bushes 
from  the  States  made  a  hedge  along  one  side  of  the  little  domain,  and 
in  a  little  artificial  pool  in  a  hollow  among  the  Pines  was  planted  an 
American  Water  Lily.  In  fact  there  was  no  corner  of  the  garden  in 
which  the  loving  work  of  acclimation  did  not  go  on. 
Conifers. 
Abies  Pinsapo,  the  Spanish  Silver  Fir,  differs  much  from  any  of 
the  Silver  Firs  already  mentioned.  The  branches  are  not  flat  or 
frondose  like  many  of  the  species,  and  the  leaves,  which  are  rather 
short,  are  stiff  and  piickly  ;  they  are  thickly  set  all  over  the  branches, 
which  gives  the  tree  a  very  dense  appearance ;  the  silvery  bands  on 
the  under  side  of  the  leaves  are  very  faint.  Thu  tree  is  quite  hardy, 
and  not  fastidious  as  to  soil  or  situation,  but  is  said  to  be  especially 
suitable  for  chalk  land.  Its  stiff  appearance  may  perhaps  be  somewhat 
against  it,  all  the  same  it  makes  a  beautiful  specimen  when  young  ; 
at  any  rate,  it  is  a  model  of  symmetry.  It  is  suitable  for  the  lawn 
or  pleasure  grounds. 
Thuia  occidentalis  is  the  common  or  American  Arbor  Vitae,  and  is 
a  well  known  evergreen  shrub  in  this  country.  In  its  native  habitat, 
however,  it  assumes  the  form  and  height  of  a  tree;  it  thrives  best  in 
a  moist  situation,  in  dry  soil  it  becomes  thin  and  bare.  For  villa 
ornamentation  it  is  excellently  adapted,  also  tor  forming  hedges  and 
screens.  There  are  several  varieties,  including  a  variegated  and 
pendulous  form.  Lutea  is  a  self-coloured  variety,  the  whole  of  the 
foliage  and  young  growth  being  of  a  bronzy  yellow  colour.  The 
plant  is  less  dense  than  the  type.  Biota  orientalis,  the  Chinese  Arbor 
Vitae,  is  a  fine  free-growing  species,  and  is  present  over  the  country  in 
variety,  and  forms  a  fine  tufty  bush-looking  plant  ;  it  is  one  of  the 
commonest  and  most  useful  garden  shrubs.  Its  habit  is  more  dense, 
and  the  foliage  of  a  brighter  green  than  the  common  Arbor  Vitae. 
The  only  variety  I  am  familiar  with  is  semper-aurescens,  which  is  a 
dwarf  globose  shrub.  The  foliage  and  terminal  growth  are  of  a  deep 
golden  hue  ;  it  has  the  advantage  over  many  coloured  forms  by 
retaining  its  colour  throughout  the  season. 
Thuia  gigantea  and  Ltbocedrus  decurrens.  There  appears  a  great 
deal  of  confusion  respecting  these  two  trees.  As  far  as  my  experience 
goes  Libocedrus  decurrens  is  quite  different  to  Thuia  gigantea,  in  a 
young  state  at  any  rate,  but  I  think  they  are  both  often  sold  under 
the  name  of  Thuia  gigantea.  They  are  both  tall-growing  trees,  and 
were  introduced  in  the  same  year,  1853  ;  Thuia  gigantea,  by  William 
Lobb,  which  was  formerly  known  under  the  name  of  Lobbi,  and 
Libocedrus  decurrens,  by  John  Jeffrey.  The  branches  of  the  latter  are 
more  rigid  and  upright,  and  young  trees  are  very  dense  ;  the  bark  on 
the  branches  is  of  reddy  brown  colour,  and  the  leaves  a  beautiful 
bright  green  on  both  sides,  they  are  strongly  decurrent  and  much 
flattened.  The  bark  of  Thuia  gigantea  is  more  red,  the  leaves  are 
darker  green  on  the  upper  side,  but  a  lighter  green  beneath,  and  are 
arranged  more  distinctly  in  opposite  pairs.  They  are  beautiful  trees, 
and  in  their  native  country  grow  to  a  great  height.  Although  they 
will  thrive  in  a  variety  of  soils,  moist  situations  suit  them  best,  and 
they  are  quite  hardy.  Libocedrus  decurrens  is  known  as  the 
Californian  White  Cedar,  also  the  Incense  Cedar.  The  name  has 
reference  to  the  fragrance  of  the  wood. 
Cryptomeria  japonica  forms  a  noble  and  distinct  tree  where  it 
grows  well ;  it  requires  a  sweet,  moist  soil,  and  a  warm  or  sheltered 
locality,  it  then  makes  a  handsome  ornamental  tree.  It  is  quite  hardy 
in  this  country,  but  there  are  not  many  places  that  can  boast  of  good 
specimens.  This  is  said  to  be  due  to  climatal  causes,  the  most  potent 
being  a  less  annual  rainfall,  and  a  lower  average  summer  temperature, 
than  in  its  native  habitat,  Japan.  It  is  much  thought  of  in  that 
country,  and  is  largely  used,  not  only  in  gardens,  but  it  is  also  planted 
to  form  avenues  along  the  public  roads.  In  this  country  the  trees 
grow  very  well  for  a  few  years  ;  they  then  very  often  lose  their  lower 
branches,  and  take  on  a  sickly  appearance.  The  trunk  appears  rather 
weak,  and  thus  is  liable  to  be  injured  by  wind  or  snow.  Cryptomeria 
elegans  is  somewhat  hardier,  and  more  easily  accommodated,  I  believe, 
than  C.  japonica,  but  my  experience  is  with  small  trees  only.  The 
trunk  is  not  so  straight  and  tapering,  the  branches  are  shorter,  and 
the  general  appearance  of  the  tree  is  less  formal  than  japonica.  The 
foliage  and  young  growth,  which  is  bright  green  during  the  growing 
season,  changes  toward  the  end  of  the  autumn  to  a  reddish  brown,, 
which  makes  the  plant  an  attractive  object  during  the  winter 
months. — Pinus. 
- «•<» - 
Plant  Cultivation  in  Britisli  Colonies. 
Mr.  E.  Hedger- Wallaoe  (formerly  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture, 
Victoria,  and  the  Government  Horticultural  College,  Melbourne), 
recently  delivered  a  course  of  ten  lectures  to  the  students  and  others 
connected  with  the  Eoyal  Botanic  Society’s  Garden.  The  seoond  of  his 
series  summarised  the  general  comformation  of  the  African  continent, 
and  the  outstanding  physioal  and  climatic  features  of  the  British 
colonies  of  this  great  oountry,  together  with  concise  observations  on 
what  vegetable  products  our  African  colonies  furnish.  In  his  opening 
