August  15,  19ol. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
163 
3^5)  WORKfoi\the\ 
El 
SK..I 
mm 
Fruit  Forcing, 
Cucumbers. — Old  plants,  whether  in  houses,  pits,  or  frames,  which 
have  been  bearing  from  an  early  part  of  the  season,  produoe  fruit 
about  this  time  or  soon  afterwards,  knobby  ended,  and,  essential  as 
these  are  for  seed,  they  are  indifferent  for  use.  Besides,  seed  bearing 
is  fatal  to  the  production  in  quantity  of  useful  fruit.  Old  plants, 
however,  may  be  kept  in  a  bearing  condition  by  cutting  out  the  old 
growths  and  encouraging  young,  so  as  to  insure  a  succession  of  bearing 
wood,  yet  the  fruit  is  more  or  less  liable  to  become  knobbed.  Train 
the  young  growths  thinly,  removing  old  leaves  to  afford  room  for  new 
growths,  and  stop  at  one  or  two  joints  beyond  the  fruit.  Remove  the 
surface  soil  where  it  can  be  done  without  injury  to  the  roots,  and  supply 
fresh  lumpy  loam.  Plants  in  frames  that  have  been  bearing  some  time 
will  be  restored  to  vigour  by  a  free  thinning  out  of  the  old  growths 
and  the  addition  of  a  little  fresh  loam,  giving  a  moderate  watering  and 
a  sprinkling  over  the  foliage  on  bright  afternoons,  closing  about  3  p.m. 
With  linings  to  the  sides  of  the  beds,  and  the  protection  of  mats  over 
the  lights  when  the  nights  become  cold,  Cucumbers  will  be  produced 
for  a  lengthened  period. 
Autumn-fruiting  Plants. — When  a  supply  of  Cuoumbers  is  wanted 
in  late  summer  and  autumn,  young  plants  afford  them  much  better 
than  old  ones,  either  in  frames  or  houses.  Therefore  the  plants 
raised  some  time  ago,  and  planted  out,  should  be  encouraged  to  make 
a  strong  growth  by  earthing  the  roots  betimes,  applying  enough  each  time 
to  cover  those  protruding,  and  taking  care  to  have  the  soil  moist  and 
warm.  Supply  water  to  the  roots  only  when  wanted,  and  give  a 
thorough  supply  each  time.  Syringe  about  3  p.m.,  damping  in  the 
morning,  at  noon,  and  in  the  evening  during  bright  weather.  Maintain 
a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  80° 
to  90°  from  sun  heat,  and  close  sufficiently  early  to  rise  to  90°,  95°,  or 
even  100°.  Train  the  growths  rather  thinly,  allowing  about  12  inches 
between  the  side  growths,  and  stop  them  about  every  foot’s  growth  to 
give  the  needful  fruiting  and  furnishing  shoots.  Remove  all  fruits  and 
male  flowers  as  they  show,  so  as  to  induce  a  sturdy  habit,  the 
beginning  of  September  being  sufficiently  early  to  allow  fruit  to  show 
for  cutting  at  the  end  of  the  month,  then  by  cropping  lightly 
fruit  will  be  had  in  full  supply  later  on,  when  it  is  most  wanted  ;  the 
plants,  however,  will  give  fruit  from  the  early  part  of  September  if 
desired,  and  not  being  overburdened,  keep  up  a  succession  till  the  new 
year  or  longer.  Avoid  overfeeding,  as  it  only  induces  fungoid  diseases 
and  favours  root  eelworm  attacks.  Secure  plenty  of  roots  by  sweet 
compost,  and  sturdy  growth  by  top-dressing  of  fertilisers,  judicious 
ventilation,  and  full  exposure  of  the  foliage  to  the  light. 
Houses  for  Winter  Fruit. — The  structure  must  be  light  and 
efficiently  heated  both  at  top  and  bottom,  and  means  of  ventilation 
provided,  so  that  air  can  be  admitted  without  creating  a  prejudicial 
draught.  The  plants  will  have  been  raised  from  seed  about  the  10th  of 
this  month.  Pot  the  plants  as  soon  as  ready,  keep  them  near  the 
glass,  transfer  into  large  pots  as  they  require  more  root  space,  and 
place  a  small  stick  to  each  for  support,  growing  the  plants  without 
stopping,  but  rubbing  off  side  shoots  as  they  appear  to  the  height  of 
the  trellis.  In  the  meanwhile,  the  house  should  be  cleansed  and 
repaired  or  painting  completed.  Remove  all  the  old  soil,  and  make 
everything  as  sweet  as  possible,  so  that  the  plants  may  have  a  chance. 
Winter  Cucumber  growing  is  much  easier  to  write  about  than  practise 
successfully. 
Vines. — Early  Houses. — Vines  that  have  been  forced  to  ripen  their 
fruit  in  May  and  June  have  the  wood  ripe.  Some  of  the  old  leaves 
may  also  have  fallen,  which  are  generally  the  first  formed,  as  these, 
from  their  thin  texture,  are  soonest  exhausted  in  elaborative  power. 
There  are  other  causes  for  the  leaves  having  died  early,  suoh  as  attacks 
of  red  spider,  insufficient  supplies  of  water,  and  lack  of  nourishment. 
These  must  be  guarded  against,  but  under  the  best  of  treatment  some 
of  the  lower  leaves  fall  early  from  no  other  cause  than  their  thin 
texture,  whilst  the  laterals,  which  are  formed  later,  have  stouter  foliage. 
Such  are  useful  is  assimilating  nutrient  elements,  some  of  which  find 
their  way  to  the  leafless  buds,  as  is  seen  in  their  plumping,  and  in  the 
thickening  of  the  adjacent  wood.  The  laterals  must  not,  therefore,  be 
cut  close  in,  as  that  would  probably  cause  the  principal  buds  to  start, 
but  remove  the  growths  by  degrees,  deferring  the  final  pruning  until  the 
early  part  of  September. 
Renovating  the  Borders  of  Early  Houses. — When  the  Vines  are 
weakly  it  is  good  practice  to  remove  the  surface  soil  down  to  the 
roots,  taking  the  advantage  of  raising  any  that  are  deep,  and  laying 
them  in  fresh  turfy  loam  nearer  the  surface.  Good  calcareous 
gravelly  loam  is  the  best,  especially  if  of  a  somewhat  irony  nature,  or 
one-sixth  of  lime  rubbish  may  be  added  where  lime  and  gritty  matter 
is  deficient  and  the  soil  heavy.  If  the  soil  be  light  and  brashy,  add  a 
sixth  of  clay  marl  dried  and  pounded.  A  twelfth  part  of  wood  ashes 
may  be  supplied  with  advantage,  and  where  the  soil  is  poor  a  fifth  part 
of  fresh  horse  droppings.  Other  fertilisers  are  best  applied  as  surface 
dressings.  Give  a  moderate  watering ;  fresh  roots  will  push,  especially 
from  near  the  collar,  into  the  new  soil  at  once,  and  be  in  capital 
condition  to  support  a  good  start  in  the  Vines  when  the  time  comes 
round.  The  border  renovation,  also  lifting,  should  be  performed  whilst 
the  leaves  are  on  the  Vines.  If  the  weather  is  bright  the  house  will 
need  shading  and  keeping  rather  close  and  moist  for  a  few  days. 
Midseason  Houses. — The  Vines  have  had  plenty  of  sun  this  season, 
and  have  perfected  or  are  ripening  satisfactory  crops.  Where  the 
Grapes  are  ripe  air  should  be  freely  admitted,  and  enough  afforded  at 
night  to  insure  a  free  circulation.  If  water  is  needed  supply  it  early 
on  days  that  promise  to  be  fine,  and  with  a  free  ventilation  the  moisture 
will  not  do  any  harm,  but  favour  the  keeping  of  the  Grapes  in  a  sound 
condition.  A  slight  shade  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  sun  taking  the 
colour  out  of  Black  Hamburghs  and  other  black  Grapes,  especially 
where  the  foliage  is  thin.  Grapes  commencing  to  colour  need  a 
circulation  of  air,  enough  at  night  to  insure  a  change  of  atmosphere,  a 
gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes  often  being  necessary  when  the  weather  is 
cold  or  damp  both  day  and  night.  Copious  supplies  of  water  and 
occasional  applications  of  liquid  manure  will  be  needed  until  the 
Grapes  are  well  advanced  in  colouring,  and  then  the  inside  border  may 
be  mulched  with  short,  dry,  spent  material. 
Late  Houses. — Full  supplies  of  water  and  feeding  at  the  surface  are 
necessary  until  the  Grapes  are  ooloured  up  to  the  footstalk,  for  many 
late  Grapes  appear  ripe  when  they  are  only  partially  finished.  All  late 
Grapes  require  time  ;  they  ought  now  to  be  colouring  or  advanced  in 
that  process,  then,  with  a  circulation  of  warm,  rather  dry  air  constantly, 
and  a  thoroughly  moist  condition  of  the  soil,  they  will  swell  and  finish 
well.  The  chief  cause  of  Muscats  shrivelling,  even  when  they  are  unripe, 
is  poverty  ;  also  of  others  shrinking  after  they  have  hung  some  time. 
Afford  a  temperature  of  70°  to  75°  by  day  artificially,  80°  to  90°  with 
sun,  and  close  sufficiently  early  to  increase  to  90°  or  95°.  When  the 
sun  is  losing  power,  afford  enough  air  to  insure  a  circulation,  and  allow 
the  temperature  to  inorease  to  90°  or  95°.  When  the  sun  is  losing 
power,  afford  enough  air  to  insure  a  circulation,  and  allow  the 
temperature  to  gradually  cool,  which  prevents  the  moisture  in  the 
atmosphere  depositing  on  the  berries.  The  hot-water  pipes  should,  if 
necessary,  ha  e  a  little  warmth  in  them  to  prevent  the  night 
temperature  falling  below  65°.  Give  particular  attention  to  the  early 
ventilation  of  the  house. — St.  Albans. 
The  Kitchen  Garden. 
Onions. — Seeds  of  a  few  varieties  to  stand  the  winter  should  now 
be  sown.  The  Tripoli  varieties  are  the  best,  including  Lemon  Rocca. 
Sow  thinly  in  drills  a  foot  apart,  and  with  care  in  sowing  but  little 
thinning  will  be  required  until  plants  are  drawn  for  spring  planting. 
The  main  crop  of  Onions  must  now  be  hastened  towards  maturity,. 
Should  the  tops  be  erect  and  green  break  them  down. 
Cauliflower. — Where  the  autumn  sowing  of  Cauliflowers  for  next 
early  summer  use  is  practised  the  seed  may  now  be  sown  on  a  sheltered 
border.  Prick  out  some  plants  when  large  enough  in  the  same  border, 
and  also  where  they  can  be  sheltered  with  a  frame. 
Carrots. — A  sowing  made  now  in  light,  comparatively  dry,  but  not 
rich  soil,  will  grow  to  a  fair  size  before  winter,  through  which  they  may 
probably  pass  with  safety  and  furnish  useful  roots  in  spring.  Scarlet 
Intermediate  and  Model  are  good  varieties,  forming  medium  sized 
roots,  which  are  better  than  the  long  varieties  for  this  sowing. 
Turnips. — It  is  desirable  to  make  another  small  sowing  of  Turnips, 
even  if  the  previous  sowing  is  coming  on  all  right.  Chirk  Castle 
Blaok  Stone,  being  a  good  hardy  variety,  may  be  sown.  Fairly  rich 
ground  and  an  open  position  should  be  selected.  Good,  well  formed 
and  useful  roots  largely  depend  on  well  developed  foliage,  which  is  not 
usually  produced  in  a  shady  position. 
Celery. — The  Celery  crop  now  demands  considerable  attention.  The 
earliest  rows,  if  required  for  use  in  September,  must  be  finally  earthed, 
though  it  is  not  necessary  to  give  the  final  moulding  up  until  three 
weeks  before  wanted  for  use.  The  rows  of  mainorop  varieties  will 
need  a  little  more  tying  and  earthing,  previously  soaking  the  roots 
well  with  liquid  manure.  Tie  up  the  plants,  and  keep  the  soil  away 
from  the  hearts.  The  latest  rows  should  be  ready  for  trimming,  this 
consisting  of  removing  the  lower  useless  leaves  and  suckers  springing 
from  the  base.  Weeds,  too,  in  and  on  the  sides  of  the  trench  ought  to 
be  pulled  out.  Give  the  rows  a  liberal  soaking  of  manure  water  and 
a  light  dusting  of  soot  before  placing  any  soil  round  the  plants. 
Grubs  of  the  Celery  fly  attacking  the  leaves  by  burrowing  between 
the  tissues  may  be  destroyed  by  crushing  between  the  finger  and 
thumb.  Plants  sufficiently  moist  at  the  roots  and  actively  growing 
are  not  attacked  so  virulently  as  those  partially  starved  by  lack  of  food 
and  moisture  in  the  soil. 
Lettuce. — The  best  varieties  of  Lettuce  for  sowing  now  are  Brown 
Cos  and  Hardy  Hammersmith.  YouDg  plants  from  previous  sowings 
may,  as  soon  as  large  enough,  be  thinned  and  planted  out.  Insert 
them  4  to  6  inohes  apart  in  rows  a  foot  asunder. 
Endive. — Thinnings  of  early  sown  rows  may  be  transplanted  6  inohes 
apart  on  a  warm,  sheltered,  rioh  border.  Should  they  progress  well, 
