174 
■JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENLR. 
August  22,  1901. 
Winter  Tomatoes. 
It  is  very  easy  to  write  about  Tomatoes  all  the  year  round,  and 
even  give  instructions  for  producing  them  during  the  winter  months. 
I  have  not  found  that  their  carrying  out  to  the  letter  is  a  certainty, 
as  with  me  the  fruit  fails  to  set  satisfactorily  during  the  short 
dull  days  of  the  late  autumn  and  early  winter  months.  Never¬ 
theless,  winter  Tomatoes,  like  winter  Cucumbers,  may  be  had.  The 
secret  is  to  have  at  command  a  low  forcing  house  well  heated, 
properly  ventilated,  and  large  panes  of  clear  glass  kept  scrupulously 
clean  inside  and  outside.  The  plants  should  be  secured  of  the  sturdiest 
character  from  a  sowing  made  early  in  August,  or  even  at  the  middle 
of  that  month.  Chemin  Rouge  is  the  variety  that  always  carries 
plenty  of  pollen  in  the  flowers,  and  if  this  is  kept  from  becoming  paste 
a  certain  setting  of  the  fruit  is  assured.  Conqueror  also  sets  well  when 
the  atmosphere  is  sufficiently  buoyant.  Frogmore  Selected  is  likewise 
a  good  pollen  bearer,  and  under  favourable  conditions — the  grand 
secret — free  setting  and  heavy  cropping.  Early  Ruby  must  be  in  the 
fray  for  prolificacy  and  early  ripening.  Ladybird  has  special  claims 
for  winter  work ;  Comet  and  Ham  Green  Favourite,  as  well  as  others, 
are  suitable  for  the  purpose.  The  plants  should  be  raised  very  thinly 
in  pots  or  pans  on  shelves  near  the  glass  in  a  house  in  succession  to 
either  Cucumbers  or  Melons,  admitting  air  freely  as  soon  as  the 
seedlings  appear,  in  order  to  have  tkem  sturdy,  short-jointed,  and 
stored  from  the  very  beginning  with  elaborated  substances  in  a 
consolidated  form.  From  the  pans,  or  even  pots,  they  may  be  lifted 
with  some  earth  and  potted  into  3-inch  pots  without  experiencing  any 
perceptible  check.  The  plants  should  be  grown  on  near  the  glass,  and 
from  the  3-inch  pots  transferred  either  into  the  fruiting  pots  or  shifted 
into  6-inch  pots.  I  prefer  the  Bhifting-on  system,  for  this  stunts,  or 
rather  broadens,  the  plants,  and  induces  the  earliest  show  for  fruit,  the 
point  being  to  keep  them  near  the  glass  and  freely  ventilated,  even  at 
night,  but  not  allowing  the  temperature  to  fall  below  55°. 
The  planting  out,  if  that  system  is  followed,  may  be  deferred 
until  the  plants  show  for  bearing,  planting  in  a  narrow  ridge  of  good 
loamy  soil  about  16  inches  distance  apart,  and  train  to  a  single  stem, 
side  growths  or  laterals  being  rubbed  off  while  quite  small.  Fruiting 
in  pots  is  the  better  plan,  10-inch  or  11-inch  pots  being  quite  large 
enough,  allowing  room  when  potting  for  about  one-quarter  the  depth 
of  the  pots  for  top-dressings.  Rather  firm  potting  is  advisable,  the 
drainage  being  thorough  but  not  excessive.  Arrange  the  plants  on  a 
bed  of  ashes  about  16  inches  distance  apart,  and  provide  a  stake  for 
each  plant,  and  secure  the  stem  to  it  as  required.  Water  should  le 
given  rather  sparingly,  for  the  evaporating  conditions  are  not  great  in 
the  late  summer  and  autumn  months,  the  tendency  being  to  too  free 
rather  than  too  little  growth.  Flagging  is  not  advisable,  but  a  little 
limpness  of  leafage  does  no  harm — rather  conduces  to  a  floriferous 
habit ;  and  if  the  trusses  of  bloom  are  smaller  in  consequence  the  fruit 
sets  all  the  better. 
When  the  first  flowers  show  colour  a  more  airy  and  drier 
atmosphere  should  be  maintained,  and  even  with  these  conditions  it  is 
advisable  to  have  recourse  to  artificial  fertilisation.  Cross-fertilisation 
often  proves  effective  where  self-impregnation,  or  pollen  from  the 
individual  flower,  is  impotent ;  indeed,  pollen  from  a  different  flower 
on  the  same  plant  often  proves  effc  ctive  on  another  blossom,  while  on 
its  own  the  setting  of  the  fruit  is  very  indiffeient.  I  think  Mr.  W. 
Iggulden  first  drew  attention  to  this  fact,  at  least  advised  the  rubbing 
of  the  tertilising  parts  of  the  flowers  together,  each  bloom  thus  being 
made  to  assist  its  neighbour.  In  the  case  of  shy  setters,  not  any 
service  for  winter,  or  where  there  is  a  deficiency  of  pollen,  the  polbn 
of  a  more  free  setting  variety  should  be  used.  The  pollen  should  be 
collected  on  a  sheet  of  white  paper,  and  a  camefs-hair  brush  laden 
with  it,  and  then  applied  to  the  pistil  of  the  flower  on  a  fine  day,  or 
when  the  flower  is  fully  expanded  about  noon.  Lightly  tapping  the 
footstalks  of  the  flowers  may  answtr  where  the  pollen  is  abundant, 
but  it  does  not  answer  to  trust  to  chance,  or  even  where  the  pollen 
falls  freely  when  the  footstalks  of  the  flowers  are  sharply  rapped, 
artificial  fertilisation  and,  better  still,  cross-fertilisation  being  resorted 
to.  Partial  impregnation  means  irregular  swelling  fruit,  for  unless 
the  proper  complement  of  ovules  are  impregnated,  or  seeds  secure  r, 
the  fruit  will  not  attain  perfection,  swelling  more  or  less  irregularly, 
and  the  quality  correspondingly  injuriously  affected. 
As  regards  topping  the  plants,  this  may  be  done  at  the  joint  beyond 
the  second  bunch  of  bloom,  allowing  one  strong  shoot  from  each  plai  t 
pushing  above  to  develop  another  bunch  of  flowers.  Top-dressing 
will  assist  the  swelling  of  the  fruit,  but  it  should  be  deferred  until 
the  first  bunch  of  bloom  has  set.  Turfy  loam  and  half-rotted  manure, 
preferably  cow-yard,  in  equal  parts,  with  a  quart  of  a  mixture  in  equal 
proportions  by  measure  of  air-slaked  lime,  wood  ashes,  and  soot  to 
each  bushel  of  compost.  If  warmed,  and  then  put  on  a  couple  of 
inches  in  thickness,  it  is  quickly  taken  possession  of,  both  by  ascending 
roots  and  also  those  still  stronger  which  are  emitted  by  the  stems ;  the 
plants  thereby  receive  much  benefit  at  a  time  when  support  is  most 
needed.  A  second  top-dressing,  applied  when  the  clusters  of  fruit  of 
the  second  setting,  or  those  following  on  the  topping  of  the  plantp,  are 
set,  will  suffice  for  the  completion  of  the  crop. 
A  temperature  of  55°  to  60°  by  night,  increased  to  65°  or  70°  by 
day,  with  80°  from  sun  heat,  closing  early  so  as  to  increase  the 
temperature  to  85°  or  90°  for  a  time,  is  suitable  for  winter  Tomatoes. 
Ventilation  is  very  important,  a  “crack  of  air”  constantly  being 
advisable  at  the  top  of  the  house,  and  a  free  circulation,  especially  in 
the  daytime  when  the  weather  permits.  When  the  fruit  neard 
ripening,  or  when  changing  colour,  a  moist  atmosphere  must  be 
avoided,  or  the  fruit  may  crack.  Where  there  is  this  tendency  less 
moisture  should  be  afforded,  both  in  the  atmosphere  and  at  the  roots, 
and  the  fruits  having  the  slightest  indications  of  cracking  should  be 
cut  and  ripened  off  the  plants  on  shelves. 
As  regards  watering,  keep  the  foliage  fresh,  always  keeping  on  th» 
dry  rather  than  the  wet  side  in  the  case  of  winter  Tomatoes.  Liquid 
manure  may  be  given  once  a  week  after  the  fruit  is  set  and  swelling, 
but  discontinuing  it  when  the  fruit  commences  to  ripen.  Sufficient 
atmospheric  moisture  will  be  present  without  recourse  to  damping 
down,  though  on  fine  days  sprinkling  the  paths,  beds  and  walls  may 
be  pracised  in  the  early  afternoon. 
White  fly  is  sometimes  troublesome,  also  aphides,  and  not  uncom¬ 
monly  red  spider.  Vaporisation  with  nicotine  compound  is  effective 
against  aphides,  and  deterrent  of  white  fly  and  red  spider.  For  these 
pests,  however,  a  little  sulphur  brushed  on  the  hot- water  pipes,  after 
forming  into  a  cream  with  skim  milk,  is  most  satisfactory  in  results, 
and  the  fumeB  given  off  also  act  well  against  fungoid  germs. — G.  A. 
Tl(e  Vine  of  Anymore. 
Everybody  has  heard  of  the  Hampton  Court  Vine,  and  most  people 
know  there  are  several  big  Vines  in  various  parts  of  the  country  ;  but 
it  may  be  news  to  many  to  be  told  that  one  of  the  largest,  and  perhaps 
the  best,  flourishes  at  the  foot  of  the  Grampians,  near  the  middle  of 
Perthshire. 
Auohmore,  one  of  the  seats  of  the  Marquis  of  Breadalbane,  is 
situated  at  the  west  end  of  Loch  Tay,  about  a  mile  from  Killin  village. 
The  mansion  is  a  fine  new  building,  with  a  beautiful  conservatory 
attached,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  nice  flower  garden.  The  kitchen 
garden  and  glass  is  perhaps  half  a  mile  lower  down  the  hillside — a 
pleasant  spot  in  the  midst  of  a  pleasant  land  in  the  pleasant  summer 
time.  The  Vine  occupies  a  lean-to  house  170  feet  long,  running  along 
the  outside  of  the  south  wall ;  and  from  the  trunk,  whioh  is  6  or  7  inches 
through,  there  extends  a  branch  each  way  to  the  ends.  From  these  the 
usual  rods  run  up  at  regular  distances.  The  crop  this  year  (about  the 
usual  one)  consists  of  over  500  bunches,  ranging  from  about  1  lb.  to 
3  lbs.  in  weight ;  probably  the  average  may  be  well  on  to  2  lbs.  The 
time  of  our  visit,  middle  of  July,  the  fruit  was  about  half  ooloured, 
and  looked  excellent  in  every  way.  Where  a  young  rod  had  been  taken, 
up  to  replace  an  old  one,  it  was  strong  enough  to  be  considered  a  oapital 
cane  if  grown  in  the  usual  way. 
This  Vine,  a  Black  Hamburgh,  is  said  to  have  been  planted  about 
1832  by  one  Robert  Gardiner  in  a  much  smaller  house.  Possibly  its 
first  advances  to  greatness  may  have  been  the  result  of  something  like 
accident,  but  certainly  the  keeping  of  it  in  its  robust  health  and 
fertility  for  twenty-five  years,  as  Mr.  Cant  has  done,  is  by  no  means 
accidental,  but  involves  the  best  of  cultural  skill  and  attention.  In 
these  days  it  is  difficult  to  make  records,  but  if  there  is  anybody  else 
who  has  gathered,  say,  10  tons  of  Grapes  from  one  Vice,  many  might  be 
interested  to  hear  of  him.  The  extension  system  carried  to  such  a 
length  may  not  appeal  favourably  to  many,  being  too  much  a  putting 
of  eggs  in  one  basket ;  but  the  jolly  old  Vine  of  Auchmore  is  not  only 
worth  a  visit,  but  well  worth  study.  That  there  are  cases  where  the 
system  might  be  profitably  adopted  is,  we  think,  certain.  Needless  to 
say  the  natural  soil  of  Auohmore  is  good  and  suitable  for  Vine 
growing ;  and  where  that  is  the  case,  and  it  is  not  convenient  to  root 
out  an  old  vinery  with  the  usual  number  of  occupants,  the  roots  of  one 
of  them  might  be  sent  farther  afield  to  new  pastures  by  extending  the 
branches. 
By  the  kindness  of  the  Marquis  the  gardens  at  Auchmore  are  open 
to  the  public  on  Wednesdays,  and  the  Vine,  although  the  principal,  is 
by  no  means  the  only  object  of  interest.  The  country  round  Killin  is 
pioturesque  and  beautiful.  The  River  Doohart,  seen  from  the  bridge 
just  outBide  Auohmore  gate,  acres  of  rock,  with  little  streams 
murmuring  over  it  in  dry  summer,  acres  of  angry  foam  in  a  winter 
spate,  and  Ben  More  towering  in  the  distance,  are  scenes  not  to  be 
forgotten.  A  little  farther  north  the  Lochy  glides  smooth  as  a  mirror 
through  green  fields,  to  meet  the  Dochart  just  before  they  enter  Loch 
Tay. — *C.  M. 
