September  5,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
231 
express  the  thanks  of  those  present  to  the  Messrs.  Grieve  for  the 
opportunity  given  them  of  spending  such  a  pleasant  and  profitable  hour. 
Mr.  Todd,  in  his  happiest  vein,  conveyed  to  Mr.  Grieve  the  gratitude  of 
all  present  for  the  feast  of  beauty  with  which  he  had  fed  them,  and 
oomplimented  the  firm  on  the  improving  and  prosperous  appearance  the 
grounds  everywhere  presented,  and  hoped  that  their  worthy  senior,  who 
had  been  so  long  a  leader  in  Soottish  horticultural  life,  would  be  long 
spared  with  the  enthusiasm  of  youth  and  the  wisdom  of  age  to  render 
yet  further  services  to  horticultu  it  Edina. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
Gathering  and  Storing  Fruit. — Varieties  of  Apples  and  Pears 
which  are  in  a  mature  and  ripe  condition  during  the  present  month 
will  be  upon  the  whole  in  an  advanced  condition  for  gathering  and 
storing  in  a  suitable  structure  to  complete  the  ripening.  Most  early 
Apples  may  be  eaten  in  good  condition  direot  from  the  treep,  but  it  is 
seldom  wise  to  leave  them  hanging  after  the  ripening  process  is 
advanced,  for  the  fruit  is  liable  to  fall  and  become  seriously  bruised, 
after  which  decomposition  sets  in  and  the  fruits  rapidly  become  useless 
Another  reason  for  gathering  is  that  blackbirds  peck  the  fruits  and 
half  eat  them  away.  Waspp,  too,  are  very  troublesome,  attacking  the 
lipestand  most  lusoious  specimens.  Pears  ought  not  to  hang  on  the 
t tees  until  ripe,  as  they  invariably  become  mealy  if  hanging  too  loDg. 
As  soon  as  the  skins  begin  to  turn  a  yellow  colour,  these  fruits  may  with 
advantage  be  picked  and  stored  in  a  cool  room  to  finish.  Another  ready 
means  of  ascertaining  whether  the  fruit  is  in  a  condition  to  pick  or  not 
is  to  lift  the  fruits  to  a  horizontal  position,  and  if  they  easily  detach 
themselves  from  the  spurs  they  are  of  oourse  ready  to  gather.  Twisting 
or  dragging  from  the  spurs  is  not  a  proper  method  of  gathering.  The 
best  and  choicest  specimens  of  both  Apples  and  Pears  should  be 
handled  carefully  when  gathering.  All  fruit  should  be  stored  in  a  clean, 
sweet,  and  airy  structure,  and  ought  to  be  laid  a  single  layer  deep  on 
clean  paper,  and  covered  with  another  layer  of  paper  to  exolude  light. 
Pears  ought  to  be  separately  stored  from  Applep,  that  is,  where  there 
are  many ;  a  separate  compartment  is  best.  Movable  and  portable 
fruit  trays  are  excellent  for  the  purpose  of  storing,  and  also  for  making 
the  frequent  examinations  of  the  fruit  afterwards  which  are  necessary 
in  order  to  remove  the  decaying  specimens.  Where  Pears  are  wanted 
to  be  accelerated  in  ripening,  it  is  best  to  give  them  the  warmest  end  of 
tie  structure.  Some  fruits  can  always  be  brought  on  in  this  way.  A 
few  days  will  often  suffice  to  bring  them  to  a  fully  ripe  condition. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  on  Walls. —  The  midseason  varieties  of 
Peaches  and  Nectarines  now  advancing  to  a  ripe  condition  should  have 
protection  from  birds  by  hanging  nets  in  front  of  the  tree?,  also  in 
such  manner  as  to  catch  any  fruits  which  may  fall.  Before  DettiDg 
the  trees  it  is  desirable  to  fully  expose  all  fruits  to  the  sun  by 
drawing  the  leaves  on  one  side,  or  in  some  cases  cutting  away  one- 
half  of  a  leaf.  The  fruits  cannot  readily  colour  where  they  are  shaded. 
It  will  also  be  necessary  where  the  growths  have  not  bfeen  laid  in  to 
do  this,  at  the  same  time  cutting  away  all  those  parts  which  are  super¬ 
fluous,  so  far  as  this  can  be  done,  while  fruit  remains  on  the  trees. 
New  Strawberry  Plantations. — Before  fresh  quarters  of  Strawberries 
can  be  planted  it  is  necessary  to  trench  and  manure  the  ground.  Bastard 
trenching  is  the  beet  method  of  preparation,  as  by  this  plan  the  soil, 
though  deeply  moved,  is  kept  in  its  original  position.  This  method 
is  imperative  where  the  subsoil  is  bad,  and  not  fit  to  be  brought  to 
the  surface.  After  trenching  the  ground  may  be  made  firm,  and 
strong  well-rooted  plants  inserted  as  soon  as  possible.  Plants 
previously  inserted  for  an  early  crop,  and  now  well  established,  should 
have  the  runners  removed  which  may  have  started  since  planting.  The 
soil  between  the  plants  ought  also  to  be  kept  free  from  weeds  by 
lightly  hoeing.  Where  there  is  a  quantity  of  well-rooted  runners  which 
have  emanated  from  plants  that  have  fruited  well  this  season,  and  they 
cannot  be  planted  at  once,  it  is  best  to  lift  and  plant  them  in  nursery 
beds  until  the  ground  for  their  permanent  reception  is  prepared  for 
them.  A  number  of  small  but  promising  youDg  plants  may  also  be 
treated  in  the  same  way  for  spring  planting. 
Outdoor  Vines. — Lateral  shoots  that  are  likely  to  become  exuberant 
should  be  pinched  back.  A  moist  condition  of  the  soil  about  the 
roots  will  assist  the  swelling  and  ripening  of  tie  fruit.  Give  a  good 
mulching  of  manure  after  the  watering,  which  will  keep  the  ground  in 
a  uniform  state  of  moisture.  Outdoor  Grapes  fall  a  prey  to  mildew  if 
the  Boil  about  the  roots  should  long  remain  dry.  Secure  the  current 
year’s  rods  or  canes  in  to  the  wall  or  fence,  as  it  may  be  highly 
essential  to  dispense  with  some  of  the  old  rods,  and  train  in  fresh  at 
the  winter  pruning. 
Morello  Cherries. — If  it  be  necessary  to  preserve  fruit  on  the  trees 
as  long  as  possible,  it  is  requisite  to  net  over  the  trees  where  the  fruit 
is  hanging.  Trees  from  which  the  fruit  has  been  gathered  should  be 
overhauled,  first  cutting  out  the  old  bearing  shoots,  then  reduce  the 
number  of  the  current  year’s  growths,  retaining  the  most  promising 
for  laying  in,  and  furnishing  the  trees  with  bearing  wood  for  the  next 
season.  Long  shoots  of  medium  strength  are  the  best  for  bearing. 
Very  strong  and  sappy  wood  is  not  so  desirable,  though  such  shoots 
may  be  useful  for  filling  up  vacancies  in  bare  parts. 
Wall  TreeB  after  Fruiting. — The  majority  of  wall  fruit  trees,  after 
the  fruit  has  been  gathered,  may  be  divested  of  much  superfluous  wood, 
and  receive  a  good  washing  with  the  hose  or  syringe.  This  will  rid  the 
trees  of  insects.  Red  spider  is  a  troublesome  pest  to  many  of  the 
stone  fruit  trees,  suoking  the  juices  from  the  leaves,  which,  owing  to 
this,  cannot  properly  carry  out  their  functions,  hence  the  buds  are 
weakened,  and  the  frnit-bearing  capacity  of  the  trees  impaired  for 
another  season.  The  roots  must  also  be  well  moistened. — Lymington. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Melons. — Plants  in  pits  and  frames  will  not  need  further  damping 
overhead,  and  they  should  only  be  given  enough  water  at  the  roots  to 
keep  the  foliage  from  flagging.  Apply  good  linings  to  the  sides  of  the 
frames,  so  as  to  furnish  a  warm  atmosphere,  kept  dry  by  free  ventila- 
tion,  which  the  frnit  requires  to  finish  well.  The  latest  plants  in  houses 
are  now  in  flower.  Fertilise  the  blossoms  when  fully  expanded,  and 
continue  to  do  so  daily  until  sufficient  fruits  are  set  for  the  orop.  The 
atmosphere  should  be  kept  dry,  a  little  ventilation  being  given  at  night 
to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  flowers.  Supply  earth  to 
the  sides  of  the  ridge  or  hillock  as  the  fruit  swells.  Water  carefully, 
yet  encourage  and  sustain  root  action  by  a  proper  amount  of  moisture 
in  the  soil.  Syringing  will  only  be  required  on  fine  afternoons. 
Maintain  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  and  70°  to  75°  by  day, 
advancing  to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat.  To  ripen  the  fruit  properly  at 
this  season  a  brisk  heat  should  be  maintained  by  day. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Early  Forced  Trees. — The  trees  have  now 
shed  their  leaves,  and  may  be  syringed  with  water  at  a  temperature  of 
140°.  It  must  not,  however,  be  used  carelessly  ;  if  too  hot  it  will  injure 
the  trees,  if  lower  in  temperature  it  is  useless  against  brown  scale,  red 
spider,  thrips,  and  brown  aphis.  All  the  houses  should  be  subjected  to 
the  hot  water  treatment,  as  simple,  effective,  and  safe  for  cleansing,  on 
the  score  of  both  fungoid  germs  and  insect  pests.  The  trees  being 
loosened  from  the  trellis,  and  tied  in  small  bundles  for  facilitating 
cleansing  operations,  wash  the  woodwork  with  a  brush  and  paraffin, 
softsoap,  or  carbolio  hard  soap,  reaching  every  angle  and  crevice. 
Limewash  the  walls,  and  if  required,  paint  the  wood  and  wirework. 
Pruning  will  be  a  light  affair,  merely  thinning  the  shoots  where  orowded 
or  too  weak  for  carrying  fine  fruits,  no  shortening  being  necessary 
except  for  the  production  of  shoots  for  extension  or  furnishing  the  trees 
with  bearing  wood.  Remove  the  loose  surface  soil  down  to  the  roots, 
and  supply  about  a  couple  of  inches  depth  of  fresh  loam,  containing 
about  a  fourth  of  well-deoomposed  manure,  and  about  7  lbs.  of  bone 
superphosphate,  and  3£  lbs.  of  double  sulphate  of  potash  and  magnesia 
to  each  cartload.  Avoid  mulchings  of  manure  at  this  time;  they 
exclude  air.  If  the  roof-lights  have  been  removed  they  need  not  be 
replaced  until  the  time  arrives  for  starting  the  trees.  Where  the  roof- 
lights  are  fixed  admit  air  to  the  fullest  extent  constantly. 
Early  Forced  Trees  in  Pots. — The  trees  must  be  top-dressed.  It  is 
best  done  before  the  leaves  have  fallen,  as  fresh  roots  are  pushed  at 
once,  and  this  makes  a  difference  in  the  setting.  Roots  outside  the  pots 
should  be  cut  off,  and  some  soil  removed  all  round  the  inside  of  the  pots. 
Add  new  soil  and  ram  it  firmly.  Give  a  good  watering,  and  plunge  the 
pots  in  ashes  level  with  the  rims  in  an  open  but  sheltered  situation  till 
forcing  time.  From  Alexander,  Early  Louise,  Hale’s  Early,  and  Stirling, 
the  best  results  are  produced. 
Boot~pruning  and  lijting  of  established  trees  must  be  deferred  until 
the  leaves  give  indications  of  falling,  but  these  operations  are  best 
performed  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  sufficiently  matured,  and  whilst  the 
leaves  or  some  of  them  are  upon  the  trees. 
Late  Houses. — The  bright  weather  has  suited  the  late  varieties,  and 
where  water  and  nourishment  has  been  supplied  liberally  the  fruit  has 
attained  a  large  size,  and  is  strikingly  beautiful,  as  well  as  excellent  in 
quality.  The  trees  must  still  have  sufficient  water,  though  a  somewhat 
drier  condition  at  the  roots  is  desirable  when  the  fruits  are  ripening 
than  when  they  are  swelling,  but  if  kept  too  dry  the  fruit  is  mealy.  A 
free  circulation  of  air  is  necessary,  utilising  the  sun  heat  if  the  fruit  is 
backward,  as  with  ventilation  early  in  the  day  the  temperature  may 
run  up  to  85°  or  90°,  which  is  preferable  to  fire  heat  at  a  later  period. 
Strawberries  in  Pots. — Runners  Dot  over-early  rooted  on  account  of 
the  dry  weather  may  now  be  placed  in  5-inch  pots.  We  have  found 
La  Grosse  Sucree,  Royal  Sovereign,  Yicomtesse  Hericart  de  Thury, 
Noble,  Sir  Joseph  Paxton,  Lucas,  Gunton  Park,  and  British  Queen 
excellent  for  early  work.  Plants  potted  some  time  ago  should  be 
examined,  and  if  making  side  buds  too  numerously  they,  where  fine 
fruits  are  desired,  should  be  removed  with  a  pointed  piece  of  hardwood, 
so  as  to  throw  the  vigour  into  the  central  crowD.  If  the  plants  grow 
vigorously  liquid  manure  will  not  las  required,  but  those  that  are 
weakly  should  have  supplies  of  it  twice  a  week.  Remove  all  runners 
as  they  appear,  and  loosen  the  surface  of  the  soil.  As  the  plants  grow 
set  the  pots  correspondingly  wider  apart,  so  as  to  secure  good  exposure 
of  the  foliage  to  light  and  air. — St.  Albans. 
