September  12,  1901.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
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Fruit  Forcing. 
Vines. — Midseason  Houses. —  When  the  Grapes  have  been  cleared 
from  the  Vines  divest  the  shoots  of  their  laterals  down  to  the  principal 
bnds,  which  are  to  be  retained  for  the  next  year’s  fruiting,  but  be 
careful  to  avoid  injuring  the  old  leaves,  for  upon  their  preservation  in 
health  depends  the  maturation  and  plumping  of  the  buds,  also  the 
storing  of  nutrition  in  the  adjacent  wood  as  well  as  the  ripening  of  the 
wood,  which  is  essential  to  a  good  break  and  a  proper  development  of 
the  bunches  and  foliage  in  the  early  stages  of  growth  next  season. 
Allow  a  free  circulation  of  air,  and  in  the  oase  of  luxuriant  or  young 
Vines,  or  where  there  is  the  least  doubt  about  the  thorough  maturity 
of  the  wood,  maintain  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes.  After 
the  removal  of  the  laterals  clear  off  the  remains  of  the  mulching  or 
remove  the  loose  surface  soil,  particularly  near  the  collar  of  the  Vines, 
picking  the  old  soil  from  amongst  the  roots,  and  supply  lumpy  loam, 
with  a  fourth  of  sweetened  manure,  a  fifth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  and  a 
twelfth  of  wood  ashes  added  and  intermixed,  in  its  place.  Avoid 
burying  the  roots  deeply,  a  couple  of  inohes  is  deep  enough.  They  will 
push  adventitious  roots  into  the  new  material,  and  these  oan  be 
encouraged  to  any  extent  by  timely  surface  dressings  or  light 
mulchings,  when  the  Vines  are  in  need  of  support  another  season.  If 
a  handful  of  approved  Vine  manure  per  square  yard  is  applied,  it  will 
aid  the  Vines  wonderfully  in  the  early  stages  of  growth  another  year. 
Inside  borders  will  need  watering,  so  as  to  keep  the  soil  healthfully 
moist.  In  the  case  of  borders  that  are  only  partially  made,  a  breadth  of 
about  2  feet  may  be  added  to  the  front,  choosing  dry  weather  for  the 
operation  and  compressing  the  materials  moderately.  If  inside  afford 
a  good  watering,  if  outside  it  will  not  be  necessary  unless  the  oompost 
is  dry. 
Late  Houses. — The  thin-skinned  Muscats,  such  as  Canon  Hall,  the 
most  splendid  in  appearance  and  the  highest  in  quality  of  all  Grapes 
when  well  done,  and  Muscat  of  Alexandria,  also  Madresfield  Court,  are 
very  impatient  of  a  stagnant  and  moist  atmosphere,  the  two  former 
spotting  and  the  latter  cracking.  They  require  fire  heat  until  thoroughly 
ripe,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air  in  the  daytime,  and  enough  at  night, 
with  gentle  warmth  in  the  pipes,  to  insure  a  circulation  of  air,  to 
prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on  the  berries,  being  careful  to  admit 
air  rather  freely  on  fine  morningp,  and  before  the  sun  acts  powerfully 
upon  the  house.  Continue  this  until  the  Grapes  are  thoroughly  finished, 
when  a  gradual  reduction  of  temperature  may  be  made  to  about  50°  at 
night.  But  there  must  not  be  any  great  hurry  in  this,  as  the  Grapes 
put  on  oolour  long  after  they  appear  finished,  and  improve  in  quality  so 
long  as  there  are  any  leaves  on  the  Vines.  Keep  the  border  moist  by 
watering  as  necessary  in  the  early  part  of  a  fine  day,  for  though  the 
leaves  become  yellow  at  the  edges  they  have  green  parts  that  are  more 
or  less  useful  in  elaborating  and  storing  food.  Moisture  must  be  kept 
down  by  free  ventilation  ;  it  is  pent-up  air,  with  a  sudden  increase  of 
temperature  from  sun  heat  in  the  early  part  of  a  fine  day,  or  at  any 
time,  which  causes  moisture  to  condense  on  the  berries,  which  “  spots  ” 
and  facilitates  the  germination  and  growth  of  ripe  “rot  fungus,” 
Glseosporium  laeticolor,  when  the  berries  speedily  decay. 
Late  Thick -skinned  Grapes. — These  are  less  affected  by  atmospheric 
moisture  than  thin-skinned,  Mrs.  Pince  shrivelling  in  a  house  where 
there  is  sufficient  moisture  to  cause  Muscat  of  Alexandria  to  rot.  They 
are  also  liable  to  give  evidence  of  finish  that  will  not  bear  dose  exami¬ 
nation  ;  therefore  make  sure  that  the  berries  are  well  finished  up  to  the 
shanks  before  ceasing  the  needful  aid  from  fire  heat.  In  a  confined 
atmosphere  Gros  Colman  sometimes  splits  at  the  nose  of  the  berries 
when  ripening,  also  Gros  Guillaume  in  less  degree.  Alicante  and  Lady 
Downe’s  finish  better  and  in  less  time  than  other  late  thick-skinned 
Grapes.  Then  the  latter  should  be  given  more  time,  also  the  white 
varieties,  Trebbiano,  Calabrian  Raisin,  and  Syrian,  and  after  they  are 
apparently  finished  a  temperature  of  about  55°  should  be  assured, 
advancing  to  60°  or  65°  by  day  and  a  circulation  of  air  until  the  foliage 
is  giving  indications  of  falling,  when  a  temperature  of  50°  is  sufficient. 
The  inside  border  should  be  watered  in  the  early  part  of  a  fine  day, 
and  air  be  freely  admitted,  for  it  is  not  so  much  the  moisture  as  its 
confinement  that  causes  berries  to  spot  and  crack.  Outside  borders 
will  be  quite  damp  enough  from  the  recent  rains.  In  case  of  very  heavy 
rains  it  is  advisable  to  cover  outside  borders  with  spare  lights  to  throw 
the  water  off,  especially  when  this  is  liable  to  hold  moisture. 
Late  Hamlurghs. — Houses  of  these  that  were  allowed  to  start 
naturally  may  need  a  little  fire  heat  to  oolour  and  finish  the  Grapes 
satisfactorily,  as  they  will,  when  it  is  hopeless  to  do  anything  more  with 
the  thick-skinned  varieties.  They  should  have  a  temperature  of  60°  to 
65°  at  night,  and  70°  to  75°  in  the  daytime,  with  a  circulation  of  air 
constantly,  and  free  ventilation  when  favourable.  Water  the  inside 
border  if  necessary,  and  when  the  Grapes  are  only  partially  advanced 
in  ripening.  Only  restrict  the  laterals  to  prevent  overcrowding,  as  a 
good  spread  of  foliage  over  thin-skinned  black  Grapes  is  the  best  safe¬ 
guard  against  the  sun  taking  oolour  out  of  them  when  ripe.  When  the 
Grapes  are  thoroughly  finished  reduce  the  temperature,  maintaining  it 
at  about  50°  by  artificial  means  by  day,  and  45°  at  night,  with  a  little 
air  constantly. 
Young  Vines. — Afford  every  encouragement  essential  to  the  perfecting 
of  their  growths,  keeping  the  foliage  clean,  removing  all  lateral  growths,, 
as  those  produced  after  this  time  are  of  little  value,  and  maintain  a 
warm,  well-ventilated  atmosphere  until  the  oanes  are  thoroughly  matured. 
Any  supernumeraries  intended  to  fruit  next  season  should  have  the 
laterals  cut  away  to  the  principal  buds,  leaving,  however,  an  outlet  for 
the  sap  by  a  few  joints  of  the  laterals  beyond  the  length  of  cane  to 
which  they  are  to  be  shortened,  and  be  careful  not  to  injure  the 
principal  leaves.  If  the  wood  does  not  ripen  kindly,  it  may  be 
accelerated  by  keeping  the  house  rather  close  in  the  daytime,  so  as  to 
get  a  temperature  of  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  opening  the  ventilators  at 
night.  Afford  sufficient  water  at  the  roots  to  prevent  the  foliage 
becoming  limp  and  no  more.— St.  Albans. 
He  Kitchen  Garden. 
Potatoes. — A  commencement  should  now  be  made  in  digging  up  the 
crops  of  Potatoes,  dealing  first  with  all  those  whioh  have  completed 
growth,  and  have  died  or  are  dying  away.  Such  as  these  will  be  better 
out  of  the  ground  than  in,  especially  if  the  weather  should  turn  damp. 
The  crop  can  be  turned  out  much  better  when  the  ground  is  dry,  and 
given  fine  weather  for  a  few  days  the  tubers  become  thoroughly  dry,  in 
which  state  they  can  be  readily  stored.  As  a  rule  it  is  the  best  plan  to 
lift  just  so  many  rows  as  can  be  dealt  with  in  a  day,  turning  the  tubers 
out  on  the  surface  early  in  the  morning,  exposing  them  throughout  the 
middle  of  the  day  to  sun  and  air,  and  picking  them  up  into  sacks  before 
night.  The  choicest  tubers  ought  to  be  secured  iu  good  condition.  The 
smaller  can  be  picked  up  under  less  favourable  conditions,  but  they 
must  not  remain  on  the  ground  long.  Potatoes  must  be  stored  in  a  dry 
place,  where  they  can  be  kept  from  frost.  Where  there  is  a  quantity, 
and  storage  room  is  scarce,  pitting  or  clamping  will  meet  the  difficulty. 
Select  a  dry  well-drained  position.  Take  out  a  foot  of  soil  3  to  6  feet 
wide,  and  form  a  ridge  of  tubers ;  cover  well  with  straw,  and  finally  with 
soil.  Damp  tubers  must  not  be  stored  in  this  way,  or  damage  may 
result  from  heating. 
Cabbage. — The  August  sown  Cabbage  should  be  planted  out  in 
quantity  now.  Good  ground  is  essential,  but  it  must  be  made  so  rather 
by  previous  manuring  than  digging  in  rich  material  now,  which  will 
cause  a  suoculent  growth.  On  very  poor  and  hungry  soil  manure  must 
be  given,  but  even  such  ground  will  be  better  improved  by  deep 
digging  and  little  manure  rather  than  shallow  preparation  with  much 
manure.  Plant  the  Cabbage  in  rows  2  feet  apart,  and  rather  thickly,  so 
as  to  admit  of  cutting  out  every  other  one  rather  freely  in  spring  for 
early  use,  or  the  plants  may  be  transferred  to  other  positions.  Plant) 
firmly,  burying  the  stems  to  the  bottom  leaves. 
Celery. — During  the  present  month  Celery  advancing  in  size  may  be 
freely  fed  with  liquid  manure  or  top-dressing  of  artificials  may  be 
applied  and  watered  in.  Early  rows  may  be  fully  earthed  so  as  to 
beoome  blanched  for  use  in  a  few  weeks’  time.  Rows  about  to  be 
earthed  for  the  first  time  should  first  have  ail  superfluous  suckers  and 
leaves  from  the  base  trimmed  away.  Secure  the  remaining  leaves 
closely  together  with  a  loose  strand  of  raffia  grass  tied  round.  This 
serves  to  prevent  soil  working  into  the  hearts  of  the  plants  or  between 
the  leafstalks,  but  at  first  the  earthing  up  must  not  be  carried  too 
high.  After  the  final  earthing  Celery  is  ready  for  use  in  three  or  four 
weeks. 
Leeks. — Leeks  grown  in  trenches  should  receive  plenty  of  water  and 
liquid  manure.  Then  remove  some  of  the  bottom  leaves,  slightly  shorten 
the  remainder,  and  earth  up  the  stems.  Good  Leeks  may  be  grown 
without  trenches,  but  the  latter  are  convenient  for  feeding  and  applying 
soil  for  blanching. 
Lettuce. — Plant  ont  the  thinnings  from  the  early  August  sown  rows 
on  moderately  good  ground.  If  established  now  the  plants  will  attain 
strength  for  passing  through  the  winter.  A  last  sowing  may  be  made 
on  a  sheltered  border. 
Endive. — Seedling  Endive,  too,  may  be  planted  out.  Encourage  the 
forward  plants  by  hoeing.  Those  that  are  fully  grown  and  ready  for 
blanching  may  have  the  outer  leaves  tied  together  to  effect  this,  or  au 
inverted  pot  with  the  hole  corked  or  stopped  oan  be  placed  over  each 
plant.  The  hearts  will  also  blanch  well  under  a  slate,  but  it  should  be 
laid  on  when  the  plants  are  dry. 
Spinach. — Winter  Spinach  may  be  freely  thinned  out,  as  isolated 
plants  stand  the  winter  better  than  crowded  rows.  Remove  weeds,  and 
give  an  occasional  hoeing  between  the  rows. 
Outdoor  Tomatoes. — Fruit  setting  after  this  date  has  little  chance  of 
becoming  ripe,  so  the  growth  of  the  plants  may  be  stopped,  the  larger 
leaves  shortened,  and  the  lower  foliage  removed,  thus  fully  exposing 
the  fruit  to  the  sun. — Lymington,  Hants. 
Query. — Can  anyone  tell  who  are  the  publishers  of  the  book 
entitled  “  The  Botanic  Gardens  of  Europe  ?  ” 
