September  26,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
299 
Yonng  Gardeners’  Domain. 
Watering. 
Some  inexperienced  amateur  gardeners  would  very  likely  smile 
soornfully  if  told  that  one  of  the  most  important,  and  perhaps  one  of 
the  most  difficult,  duties  which  the  grower  of  plants  under  glass  is 
called  upon  to  perform  is  that  of  watering  them.  They  might  admit 
that  raising  plants  from  seed,  striking  cuttings,  potting,  and  maintaining 
a  suitable  temperature  were  tasks  in  which  the  experience  of  an  expert 
was  of  value,  and  likely  to  effect  results  which  they  could  not  hope  to 
rival ;  but  watering,  surely  anyone  could  water  a  plant — that,  at  least, 
presents  no  difficulty  to  the  most  inexperienced,  and  it  may  not  be  an 
altogether  unpleasant  reflection  for  those  who  depend  for  a  livelihood 
on  growing  plants  for  sale  that  vast  numbers  are  watered  by  anyone, 
so  effectually  watered  that  they  soon  have  to  be  replaced  by  others,  to 
the  pecuniary  benefit  of  the  professional  grower. 
Of  the  many  causes  whioh  lead  to  the  death  of  plants  after  they 
leave  the  grower’s  care,  the  most  general  is  undoubtedly  improper 
watering,  and  more  plants  are  probably  killed  by  an  excessive,  than  by 
an  insufficient  water  supply.  Every  gardener  knows  that  one  of  the 
great  secrets  of  success  in  growing  plants  is  judicious  watering,  and  the 
art  is  not  to  be  mastered  in  a  day,  or  a  week.  If,  as  is  often  supposed 
by  the  inexperienced,  a  rule  could  be  laid  down  that  certain  plants 
required  water  at  certain  intervals,  all  would  be  simple  enough  ;  but  as 
it  is  impossible  to  lay  down  any  such  rule,  this  is  where  the  necessity 
for  thought  and  observation  on  the  part  of  the  gardener  comes  in. 
It  is  easy  enough  to  say  a  plant  must  be  watered  when  it  requires 
water,  but  the  point  is  to  be  able  to  judge  when  it  does  require  water, 
or  is  likely  to  require  it.  At  times  it  is  both  possible  and  necessary  to 
go  through  a  collection  or  group  of  plants  and  tap  each  pot  with  the 
knuckles  or  a  stick,  and  with  a  little  praotice  the  degree  of  moisture 
in  the  soil  can  be  judged  to  a  nicety  by  the  ring.  But  this  means  is  not 
always  practicable ;  life  is  short  and  time  is  precious,  and  will  not 
always  allow  of  its  being  done,  particularly  in  watering  small  stuff. 
Often,  when  an  inexperienced  person  might  suppose  a  man  to  be 
watering  simply  haphazard,  there  are  half  a  dozen  considerations  passing 
in  bis  mind  deciding  whether  a  certain  plant  or  group  of  plants  is  to  be 
watered  or  not,  but  so  rapidly  that  to  the  oasual  observer  he  appears  to 
be  splashing  round  in  a  careless,  happy-go-lucky  fashion. 
The  circumstances  which  must  govern  the  supply  of  water  given  to 
plants  grown  under  artificial  conditions  are  many.  The  nature  of  the 
climate  of  which  it  is  a  native,  whether  it  is  in  a  rapidly  growing  state 
or  in  bloom,  whether  it  is  exposed  to  bright  sunlight  and  ventilation,  or 
in  close  proximity  to  the  hot-water  pipes  or  away  from  them,  and  many 
other  points  regulate  the  amount  of  water  required.  Newly  potted 
stuff  must  be  watered  carefully  for  some  time  until  the  pot  begins  to  fill 
with  roots,  when,  as  the  plant  gets  more  firmly  established,  more  and 
more  water  will  he  required.  The  season  and  the  state  of  the  atmo¬ 
sphere  are  other  important  factors.  Many  plants  which  can  scarcely 
be  overwatered  during  the  height  of  the  summer  will  suffer  and  possibly 
damp  off  if  not  kept  on  the  dry  side  during  cold  weather,  while  it  is 
obvious  that  a  plant  in  a  close,  damp  atmosphere  will  transpire  less 
through  the  foliage,  and  consequently  require  less  moisture  at  the  root, 
than  one  in  a  house  that  is  kept  well  ventilated,  and  where  the  air  is 
free  from  humidity. 
Only  a  knowledge  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  various  kinds  and  orders 
of  plants,  to  be  gained  by  experience,  will  teach  a  gardener  how  to 
water  so  as  to  obtain  the  best  results.  From  the  theoretical  side,  it  is 
true,  much  may  be  said,  such  as  that  plants  with  very  fine  fibrous  roots, 
like  the  Ericas,  require  frequent  attention,  while  those  with  thick  fleshy 
roots,  like  Palms,  will  go  without  water  for  some  time  without  harm  ; 
that  plants  with  thick  hard  leaves,  such  as  the  Sedums,  transpire 
slowly,  while  those  with  soft  flabby  leaves,  such  as  the  Cucumber, 
having  large  stomata,  transpire  quickly,  and  must  never  be  allowed  to 
get  dry.  But  without  practical  knowledge  the  would-be  gardener 
would  find  this  of  little  use  to  him.  Experience  is  the  only  sound 
teacher,  in  this  case  at  any  rate,  and  he  would  find,  as  in  most  other 
horticultural  operations,  that  an  ounce  of  praotice,  if  he  make  an 
intelligent  use  of  his  faculties  of  observation  and  judgment,  is  worth 
many  pounds  of  precept. — A.  W.  D. 
Trade  Catalogues  Received. 
James  Cocker  &  Sons,  nurserymen,  seedsmen,  and  florists,  130,  Union 
Street,  Aberdeen. — Dutch  Flower  Roots. 
Samuel  Dobie  &  Sod,  Heatbfield  Gardens,  near  Chester. —  Garden 
Annual ,  autumn  edition. 
Laing  &  Mather,  Kelso-on-Tweed,  N.B. — Carnations. 
Hugh  Low  &  Co.,  Bush  Hill  Park,  Enfield,  Middlesex. —  Catalogue  of 
Plants,  tshrubs,  Trees,  fyc. 
Louis  Paillet,  nurseryman,  Vallee  de  Chatenay,  Chatenay,  Seine,  Paris, 
France. — Tree  and  Herbaceous  Peonies. 
William  Paul  &  Son,  Waltham  Cross,  Herts. — Catalogue  of  Roses. 
Amos  Perry,  Winchmore  Hill,  London, "N. —  Bulbs  and  Tubers,  part  I. 
Pinehurst  Nurseries  (Otto  Katzenstein,  manager),  Pinehurst,  N.C., 
U.S.A. — American  Seeds  Conifers,  Palms,  Trees,  Shrubs,  fyo.;  also 
Wholesale  Seed  List  of  Woody  and  Herbaceous  Plants. 
Herrn  L.  Spatb,  Baumschule,  Baumsohulenweg,  Berlin. — Trees,  Shrubs, 
and  General  Nursery  Stock. 
Robt.  Yeitch  &  Sons,  54,  High  St.,  Exster. — Bulbs  and  Strawberry  List. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
Cucumbers. — The  latest  plants  whioh  are  to  afford  a  supply  of  fruit 
about  the  new  year  should  be  placed  out  in  ridges  or  hillocks,  training 
with  a  single  stem  to  the  trellis,  up  which  they  may  be  allowed  to 
advance  two-thirds,  when  pinch  off  the  lead.  Those  not  having  the 
convenience  of  a  Cucumber  house  may  secure  fair  supplies  of  winter 
fruit  by  growing  the  plants  in  pots  or  boxes,  training  the  growths  near 
the  glass  over  the  paths  in  stoves,  fruiting  Pine  houses,  or  other  well- 
heated  structures.  Plants  in  bearing  should  not  be  overcropped,  or 
the  fruit  allowed  to  remain  longer  than  it  is  fit  to  cut,  removing  all 
deformed  fruit  in  a  young  state.  Maintain  a  night  temperature,  5°  less 
in  the  morning,  75°  by  day,  up  to  85°  or  90°  with  sun,  admitting  a 
little  air  at  the  top  of  the  house  at  every  favourable  opportunity,  and 
keeping  the  evaporation  troughs  charged  with  liquid  manure,  floors 
damped  with  water  about  8  A  M.  and  4  p.m.,  dispensing  with  the  syringe 
over  the  plants.  Reduoe  the  supply  of  water  at  the  roots,  but  not  so 
much  as  to  cause  flagging.  A  little  sweetened  manure  sprinkled  on 
the  beds  occasionally  will  benefit  the  plants  through  the  waterings, 
washing  their  elements  into  the  soil  and  the  ammonia  given  off,  bat 
this  must  not  be  excessive,  or  the  foliage  will  be  injured.  Keep  the 
foliage  thin  and  the  glaBS  clean,  so  as  to  secure  thoroughly  solidified 
growths. 
Melons. — The  end  of  the  Melon  season,  as  regards  those  grown  in 
frames  and  pits  heated  with  fermenting  materials,  is  approaching, 
though  fairly  good  fruit  may  be  had  up  to  November,  especially  of 
kinds  that  will  keep  some  time.  Any  fruits  approaching  ripeness 
should  be  cut  with  a  good  portion  of  stem,  and  placed  in  a  house  with 
a  gentle  warmth,  where  they  will  ripen,  and  be  welcome  additions  to 
the  dessert.  From  houses  a  supply  of  fruit  will  be  kept  up  some  time 
longer,  the  latest  fruits  only  swelling  now.  Sufficient  moisture  will  be 
secured  to  the  crop  by  damping  in  the  morning,  and  again  early  in 
the  afternoon,  affording  water  to  the  roots  moderately ;  a  supply  once 
a  week  will  in  most  cases  be  sufficient.  All  superfluous  laterals  should 
be  cut  out,  so  as  to  afford  the  principal  foliage  the  benefit  of  tha 
autumn  sun.  Plants  with  fruit  approaching  ripeness  should  be  kept 
rather  dry,  and  a  brisk  heat  maintained  with  rather  free  ventilation, 
the  temperature  being  kept  at  65°  at  night,  7(P  to  75°  by  day,  rising 
to  85°  or  90°  from  sun  heat,  affording  a  little  air  at  the  upper  part  of 
the  roof  whenever  the  weather  is  favourable. 
Vines. — Midseason  Houses. — Black  Hamburghs  and  other  descriptions 
of  thin-skinned  black  Grapes  have  the  colour  taken  out  of  them  by 
hanging,  and  oan  only  be  lessened  by  keeping  a  good  spread  of  foliage, 
or  drawing  a  double  thickness  of  herring-net  over  the  roof-lights.  The 
latter  is  the  preferable  plan,  as  lateral  growths  interfere  with  light  to 
the  principal  leaves  and  the  free  access  of  air  so  desirable  for  maturing 
the  wood.  Those  from  whioh  the  Grapes  have  been  cut  may  hive  the 
growths  out  back  to  a  few  joints  above  the  pruning  buds,  6rst  curtailing 
the  laterals  and  then  cutting  back  the  main  growths.  This  insures  the 
buds  becoming  plumper,  whilst  the  freer  access  of  light  and  air  affeots 
the  wood  favourably.  A  free  circulation  of  air  is  necessary  to  expel 
damp,  with  a  little  constantly  to  prevent  the  deposition  of  moisture  on 
the  berries,  a  gentle  warmth  in  the  hot-water  pipes  being  neoessary 
when  the  external  air  is  cold  and  damp ;  but  the  wood  being  ripe  and 
the  growth  matured,  it  will  suffice  to  maintain  a  temperature  of  50  , 
and  this,  with  a  free  circulation  of  air  and  a  cool  day  temperature,  will 
secure  the  Grapes  keeping  plump  and  sound.  Vines  that  have  not  the 
wood  ripe  should  have  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°  at  night  and 
70°  to  75°  by  day,  admitting  air  freely,  and  continuing  thiB  until  there 
is  no  doubt  on  the  point.  Keep  the  laterals  well  in  check,  not  allowing 
them  to  interfere  with  the  chief  growths.  The  border  must  not  be 
allowed  to  become  too  dry,  or  the  Grapes  will  shrivel,  therefore  afford  a 
supply  of  water  where  necessary,  always  in  the  morning  and  on  a  tine 
day,  so  that  air  can  be  admitted  and  the  superfluous  mois  ure  pass  off. 
The  watering  will  not  do  the  least  harm,  for  it  is  not  moisture  at  the 
roots,  unless  exoessive,  that  oauses  the  Grapes  to  spot  and  decay,  but 
a  continued  stagnant  atmosphere,  moisture  being  condensed,  it  may  be 
imperceptibly,  on  the  berries,  that  give  moulds  their  opportunity,  which 
they  never  pass  by,  but  grow  and  multiply  under  the  favouring  circum¬ 
stances.  Keep  well  ventilated,  and  have  no  leaks  in  the  roof,  then  all 
will  be  well  with  the  Grapes. 
Late  Houses. — Where  the  Vines  were  started  in  good  time,  say 
March  and  early  April,  and  aided  in  the  spring  by  fire  heat,  as  well  as 
in  the  summer,  the  Grapes  will  be  thoroughly  ripe,  in  which  state  they 
can  only  be  expected  to  keep  satisfactorily,  and  the  wood  thoroughly 
matured ;  all  laterals  or  spray  may  be  removed  down  to  the  main  buds, 
ventilating  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions.  Fire  heat  will  only  be 
necessary  to  prevent  the  temperature  falling  below  50°.  Musoat  of 
Alexandria,  however,  matures  better  in  a  temperature  of  55°.  To 
prevent  dust  falling  on  the  berries  raking  or  sweeping  must  not  bo 
