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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
September  26,  1901. 
practised.  Mats  or  clean  straw  laid  over  borders  will  to  some  extent 
prevent  evaporation.  Outside  borders  need  not  be  covered  where  the 
soil  acts  like  a  sieve,  but  where  composed  of  somewhat  moisture-holding 
■material,  a  covering  against  heavy  rains  is  advantageous.  Glass  lights 
are  best,  wooden  shutters  good,  and  tarpaulin  over  dry  bracken  or  straw 
answers  well.  Where  the  Grapes  are  not  yet  ripe  the  temperature  must 
not  be  less  than  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  65°  at  night,  falling  5°  through 
the  night,  allowing  an  advance  to  80°  to  85°  from  sun  heat,  continuing 
this  until  the  Grapes  are  ripe,  at  least  until  the  wood  is  brown  and 
hard,  for  it  is  almost  useless  to  expect  good  results  in  Grapes  that  are 
not  properly  finished  by  this  time. 
Young  Vines. — The  laterals  must  now  be  gradually  cut  back,  letting 
the  sun  have  a  clear  effect  on  the  principal  growths,  not  removing  them 
all  at  once,  but  by  degrees,  getting  them  near  the  main  rod  with  little 
further  delay,  so  as  to  leave  nothing  but  the  chief  cane  or  canes,  and 
thus  the  principal  leaves  will  plump  the  buds.  Those  having  a  tendency 
to  continue  growing  to  a  late  period  may  be  checked  by  stopping  the 
shoots  moderately,  facilitating  the  ripening  by  a  high  and  dry  tempe¬ 
rature  by  day,  turning  off  the  heat  and  keeping  the  ventilators,  except 
during  frost,  open  at  night.  Afford  water  only  at  the  roots  to  prevent 
the  foliage  becoming  limp.  This  will  harden  the  wood  and  tend  to 
induce  maturity  of  the  growths. — St.  Albans. 
Tlie  Kitchen  Garden. 
Celery. — The  most  favourable  opportunities  should  not  be  lost  for 
giving  the  necessary  attention  to  Celery.  All  the  earliest  rows  will 
now  be  finally  earthed,  and  some  will  be  in  use.  Rows  that  have  not 
yet  had  much  soil  drawn  round  the  plants  should  receive  liquid  manure, 
and  plenty  of  water  if  the  soil  is  somewhat  dry.  Useless  leaves  and 
suokers  ought  in  the  first  instance  to  be  pulled  off,  which  will  materially 
improve  them  ;  lightly  draw  the  remainder  together,  and  secure  in  an 
upright  position  with  strands  of  raffia.  This  is  better  than  allowing 
the  leaves  to  hang  about,  where  they  beo  >me 
bent  and  broken,  and  do  not  assist  in  blanching 
the  inner  leafstalks  and  heart.  While  Celery  is 
making  growth  it  is  not  desirable  to  mould  it  up 
finally.  This  may  be  done  a  few  weeks  before 
wanted  for  use.  During  the  earlier  stages  the 
soil  should  not  be  applied  higher  than  the  hearts, 
which  must  be  free,  in  order  that  the  plants  can 
advance.  When  the  roots  have  become  thoroughly 
moistened,  soil  broken  down  round  the  plants 
greatly  helps  in  retaining  it. 
Planting  Lettnce. — If  the  seedlings  are  not 
too  crowded  there  should  be  plenty  of  sturdy 
young  plants  suitable  for  planting  out  a  few 
inches  apart.  Plant  out  as  many  as  possible  on 
good  ground  that  has  been  well  dug.  The  hoe 
may  be  plied  between  earlier  established  plants, 
these  shortly  being  available  for  use.  Beds  of 
smaller  seedlings  may  be  thinned,  and  the  plants 
allowed  to  stand  through  the  winter. 
Cabbage. — Insert  a  good  breadth  of  plants 
from  the  August  sown  seed  beds,  placing  them 
in  rows  2  teet  apart,  each  plant  being  allowed 
a  space  of  15  to  18  inches.  They  may  be  planted 
closer  together  than  this  if  alternate  plants  are 
removed  in  spring  and  planted  elsewhere,  or  cut 
closely  to  the  ground  for  early  use.  Moderate 
sized  plants  of  a  sturdy  character  are  better 
than  those  larger  and  stronger.  Thin  out  those 
remaining.  Small  plants  should  be  pricked  out 
in  a  nursery  bed,  where  they  will  grow  and 
strengthen,  and  be  available  for  spring  planting. 
Potatoes. — All  Potatoes  will  be  better  out  of 
the  ground  now,  choosing  fine  dry  weather  for 
the  work  of  lifting  them.  Spread  the  tubers 
on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  where  they 
may  remain  for  a  few  hours  to  dry  ;  afterwards 
pick  them  over,  discarding  all  the  small  fry 
and  any  that  give  the  least  indication  of  disease.  Should  the  latter  be 
apparent  postpone  the  final  storing  for  a  few  weeks,  in  the  meantime 
keeping  the  tubers  in  a  dry  shed  covered  with  straw,  and  look  over 
them  several  times  so  as  to  remove  any  tainted  specimens.  This  also 
insures  the  tubers  being  perfectly  dry,  an  important  matter  when  they 
have  to  be  stored  in  bulk  or  clamped  outdoors.  At  the  same  time  pick 
out  suitable  seed  tubers. 
Parsley. — Prepare  a  bed  for  winter  use  by  clearing  out  all  weeds 
and  superfluous  plants,  especially  those  which  have  produced  seed  stems. 
Sturdy  plants  throwing  out  strong  leafstalks  with  curled  foliage  are  the 
most  useful.  Stir  the  soil  about  them  and  encourage  growth.  Prior  to 
bad  weather  protection  is  not  needed,  but  on  its  advent  a  frame  placed 
over  the  bed  and  covered  with  lights  serves  as  valuable  protection,  but 
fully  expose  on  all  favourable  occasions.  Some  sturdy  old  plants  lifted 
and  planted  in  the  Cucumber  frame  will  provide  some  valuable  pickings 
in  early  spring,  when  the  outdoor  supply  is  probably  running  short. 
The  small  plants  from  the  August  sowing  may  be  lightly  thinned  and 
kept  free  from  weeds. 
Tomatoes. — Strong  plants  in  8-inch  pots  growing  close  to  the  glass 
in  a  warm  house  should  be  setting  fruit  now.  Encourage  them  to  do 
this  by  careful  attention  to  the  requirements  of  the  plants  and  dispersing 
the  pollen  at  midday  when  the  atmosphere  is  dry.  If  a  moderate  crop 
can  be  set  it  is  not  so  difficult  to  develop  it.  Green  fruit  remaining  on 
plants  outdoors  or  on  the  summer  plants  under  glass  should  now  be  cut 
and  finished  in  a  heated  structure. 
Cauliflowers. — A  frame  may  be  filled  with  seedlings  which  have  been 
recently  raised.  The  bed  should  be  near  the  glass,  and  plenty  of 
ventilation  given.  The  strongest  might  be  planted  outdoors,  three  or 
fou  r  together,  and  covered  with  a  hand-light.  Also  plant  a  bed  in 
a  sheltered  position  outdoors. — Lymington,  Hants. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  EDITOR,”  12,  mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Book  "Wanted  (F.  P.,  Devon). — “Chemistry  of  the  Garden,”  by 
H.  Cousins,  is  obtainable  from  Macmillan  &  Co.,  London,  price  Is., 
postage  extra.  It  is  one  of  the  best  little  books 
a  gardener  could  purchase. 
Nymphaeas  (Rev.  C - .  S - .). — Mr.  Rail- 
lem.’s  notes  referred  to  varieties,  all  of  which  are 
hardy  with  him  in  Essex. 
TTaroissus  triandrus  (Minor). — This  charming 
little  Narcissus  is  most  suitable  for  culture  in 
pots ;  pots  about  4  inches  or  5  inches  in 
diameter.  With  this  pretty  species  you  could 
grow,  in  separate  pots,  of  ooirrse,  such  others  as 
N.  cyclamineus,  N.  Bulbooodium  monophyllus, 
N.  Johnstoni  Queen  of  Spain,  and  others  that 
might  be  named,  and  which  are  also  dwarf  and 
excellent  for  potting-up.  By  securing  good  sound 
bulbs  now,  and  using  a  light  compost,  plunging 
the  pots  under  fibre  or  ashes,  by  February  the 
bulbs  will  be  placing  indoors  for  flowering. 
Lean-to  Mushroom  House  (Z.). — Mushroom 
houses  should  be  slightly  sunk,  as  propagating  pits 
are,  for  instance ;  their  roofs  are  reoommended 
to  be  made  of  thatch.  You  can  furnish  a  Mush¬ 
room  house  simply  by  placing  stout  upright 
beams,  4  inches  by  2  inches,  close  against  the 
wall,  and  fasten  on  horizontal  beams  of  the  same 
measurements  at  right  angles,  at  the  top  of  the 
perpendicular  beams.  To  the  top  horizontal 
beam,  and  also  to  the  uprights  at  either  side, 
nail  your  sloping  joists,  which  of  course  will 
be  fastened  to  a  similar  stout  horizontal  cross 
beam  forming  what  will  be  the  front  part  of  the 
lean-to — the  part  outermost  from  the  wall.  Stout 
posts,  or  a  brick  front,  which  is  preferable,  will 
be  required  at  either  corner  to  support  the  front 
horizontal  beam.  Then,  having  made  your  frame¬ 
work  of  outer  beams  with  the  downward  sloping 
joists,  proceed  to  nail  on  the  wood  to  form  the 
roof,  which  may  then  be  tiied  or  slated.  Wooden 
roofing  would  not  be  required  if  it  is  resolved  to  employ  a  thatch.  The 
front  and  sides  may  also  be  boarded  in.  If  the  lean-to  is  partly  sunk 
you  will  require  to  arrange  for  two  steps,  or  perhaps  three,  and  the  sides 
from  which  the  earth  has  been  excavated  will  require  to  be  built  up. 
Within  the  house  arrange  slate  benches  2^  feet  or  3  feet  deep  each ;  there 
may  be  two  benches  in  a  house  9  feet  high.  If  you  wish  more  definite 
information,  write  again  please. 
Selection  of  Dwarf  Narcissi  (A.  B.). — We  cannot  do  better  than 
recommend  to  your  notice  Messrs.  Barr’s  notes  on  these  charming  little 
subjects  for  rockwork,  where  their  dainty  flowers  are  seen  to  perfection. 
They  should  be  left  undisturbed  for  years,  and,  if  happy,  will  soon 
establish  themselves  and  afford  a  lovely  picture  in  early  spring.  All 
the  Corbularias  (except  Corbularia  monophylla)  like  moisture,  and 
should  therefore  be  planted  at  the  foot  of  the  rockery.  Cyclamineus 
also  likes  moisture  and  partial  shade.  Corbularia  monophylla  flourishes 
in  a  warm  dry  sheltered  situation,  and  should  be  given  a  hot  sunny 
nook,  planted  in  almost  pure  sand  ;  when  coming  into  bloom  give  water 
freely.  Triandrus  albus  (Angel’s  Tears)  and  juncifolius  delight  in 
partial  shade  and  a  light  gritty  soil,  and  should  be  given  a  well -drained 
