308 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
October_3,  1901. 
The  grower  for  exhibition  is  anxious  to  secure  and  partially 
develop  as  many  buds  as  possible  before  the  end  of  September,  knowing 
well  that  buds  retained  at  that  period,  ranging  from  the  middle  of 
August  to  the  end  of  September,  will  give  him  blooms  which  not  only 
develop  at  the  right  time,  but  are  of  large  size  and  good  quality. 
Later  buds  may  be  secured,  acd  in  son  e  cases  they  will  produce  blooms 
of  a  satisfactory  character,  the  incurved,  reflexcd,  and  pompon  varieties 
especially,  as  these  may  have  the  teiminal  buds  selected,  gradually 
rubbing  out  others.  For  producing  a  display  of  blocm  lor  other 
purposes  than  exhibition,  the  retaining  of  spocial  crown  buds  is  not 
absolutely  essential.  Well-grown  plants  with  vigorous  roots  can 
furnish  admirably  coloured,  well  formed,  and  medium  sized  blooms 
from  terminal  buds,  and  it  will  l  e  found  that  at  this  period  numbers 
of  varieties  are  just  producing  the  buds  in  question. 
The  terminal  buds  appear  in  clusters  of  several,  and  the  largest 
only  is  the  best  to  retaiu.  The  reduction  of  the  side  buds  must, 
therefore,  be  commenced,  disposing  of  a  few  at  a  time  until  the  main 
bud  is  perfectly  alone,  when  it  will  have  the  chance  of  swelling  to  a 
good  size,  helped  by  generous  treatment  and  correct  watering.  In 
addition  to  the  removal  of  superfluous  buds,  side  shoots  which 
constantly  appear  must  be  rubbed  out.  Where  there  are  a  number 
of  growths  to  one  plant  provision  must  be  made  to  space  them  out 
separately,  as  the  admission  of  light  and  air  is  important  for  the 
welfare  of  the  foliage  and  the  ripening  of  the  wood.  When  pots  are 
well  filled  with  roots  feeding  assists  the  plants  to  a  great  extent  in 
multiplying  the  active  fibres,  and  giving  the  nerded  stimulus  to  the 
swelling  and  development  ot  the  buds.  Almost  any  kind  of  animal 
manure  soaked  in  water,  and  the  liquid  given  in  a  weak  state  at  first, 
increasing  its  strength  later,  is  beneficial.  Soot  water  is  very  helpful, 
giving  tone  to  the  foliage  and  depth  of  colouring  to  the  flowers. 
Dustings  of  artificials  may  also  be  given  as  a  change  of  diet.  The 
various  preparations  adapted  chiefly  fcr  the  requirements  of  Chrys¬ 
anthemums  may  be  employed,  or  those  known  as  general  fertilisers 
can  with  safety  be  applied. 
Regularity  in  watering  is  as  important  as  the  application  of 
stimulants.  Allowing  the  plants  to  become  thoroughly  dry  does 
considerable  barm,  and  no  elaborate  preparation  can  make  up  for  the 
lack  of  moisture  as  given  by  the  needful  supplies  of  clear  water. 
Prior  to  feeding  with  manure  water  or  other  stimulant  it  is  requisite  to 
well  moisten  the  soil  in  the  pots  with  clear  water  before  giving  rich 
liquid  food.  A  slight  top-dressing  of  artificial  manure  mixed  with 
soil  is  favoured  by  some  growers,  but  room  must  be  left  in  the  pots  to 
receive  the  material,  afterwards  supply  moisture  with  a  rosed  can  so 
as  not  to  displace  the  dressing.  The  strongest  rooting  plants  require 
considerable  attention  in  the  supplying  of  water,  and  they  may  be 
fed  oftener  than  others  less  vigorous.  Plants  in  small  po:s,  too,  will 
take  more  frequent  supplies  both  of  water  and  liquid  manure,  as  the 
rootiDg  material  being  fully  occupied  with  roots  has  had  its  food 
abstracted  by  them,  therefore  the  frequent  supply  of  more  is  absolutely 
essentia],  in  order  to  maintain  the  plants  in  health  and  vigour  for 
carrying  out  their  mission  of  floweimg  freely  and  satisfactorily. 
Plants  in  an  active  condition  at  the  roots  and  6tocd  on  a  moist 
base  are  apt  to  root  through  into  the  ground  below.  It  is,  therefore, 
desirable  to  twist  the  plants  round  or  lift  them  up  to  prevent  this, 
especially  prior  to  housing,  as  the  sudden  detaching  of  roots  from  the 
base  if  they  had  rooted  well  into  the  soil  might  cause  an  undue  check. 
Most  cultivators  avoid  this  by  standing  their  plants  on  slates  or  boards 
from  the  first. — E.  D.  S. 
- ♦  -oo  »  t - - 
National  Centennial  Tree-planting. — With  a  view  to  mark  in 
a  special  manner  the  advent  of  the  twentieth  century,  the  close  of  the 
longest  reign  on  reoord,  and  the  accession  of  King  Edward  VII.  to 
the  British  Throne,  Mr.  Ellis  Lever,  Colwyn  Bay,  near  Liverpool, 
makes  an  excellent  and  timely  suggestion.  His  proposal  to  commemorate 
these  three  events  of  1901  is  that  all  county,  municipal,  urban,  and 
parish  councils  throughout  the  United  Kingdom  should  unite  to  beautify 
the  highways,  byways,  streets,  squares,  commons,  and  playgrounds  by 
planting  before  the  close  of  the  year  a  variety  of  suitable  trees  for  shade, 
and  to  render  more  attractive  as  the  years  roll  by  both  town  and  country. 
Mr.  Lever  expresses  the  opinion  that  eminent  men  and  women  should 
be  invited  to  undertake  the  planting  of  these  memorial  trees,  which 
might  be  signalised  by  public  ceremonial  in  each  county. 
flfagnolia  conspicua. 
The  inscription  beneath  the  illustration  of  this  most  beautiful 
subject  on  the  opposite  page  slates  that  it  was  grown  at  Wynlass 
Beck,  Windermere,  in  Westmoreland.  The  air  in  this  northern 
county  is  roft  and  mild,  which  explaius  the  exuberance  and  floriferous- 
ness,  so  far  north,  of  a  subject  that  is  generally  deemed  only  tractable 
when  treated  to  the  sunshine  and  the  mellow  breezes  of  our  southern 
lat’tudes.  We  present  the  subject  as  it  appears  in  Mr.  M^wson’s 
elaborate  “  Art  and  Craft  of  Garden  Making,"’  a  review  of  which  appears 
below.  The  illustration  is  one  of  a  large  number  that  a  e  included  in. 
this  delightful  and  practical  book  to  emphasise  the  use  of  certain 
subjects  in  conditions  suitable  to  them.  Of  course  there  are  numerous 
other  illustrations  of  a  purely  diagrammatical  and  practical  nature. 
Magnolia  conspicua,  M.  SoulaDgeana,  and  M.  Lence  are  three  useful 
species  for  training  as  climbers  against  walls.  Much  more  might  be 
done  to  introduce  Magnolias  to  our  gardens  ;  their  foliage  itself,  is 
handsomely  ornamental,  and  most  of  them  grow  with  comparative 
vigour. 
- <•••> - 
Book  Notice. 
“The  Art  aijd  Craft  of  Garden  faking.”* 
When  the  first  edition  of  “  The  Art  and  Craft  of  Garden  Making  ” 
appeared  a  year  ago  the  pages  of  our  Journal  accorded  this  handsome 
volume  a  full  measure  of  compliment  and  praise,  detailing  the  scope  of 
treatment  and  ability  exhibited  by  the  author,  while  special  attention 
was  directed  to  the  prodigality  and  careful  execution  of  the  useful 
illustrations  that  form  a  very  special  feature  of  this  work.  The  success 
which  we  hoped  would  attend  such  an  elaborate  and  able  publication 
has  been  attained,  and  only  pressure  of  other  duties  has  restrained  us 
from  the  sooner  noticing  the  advent  of  a  second  edition. 
The  author’s  principles  of  design  are  largely  such  as  have  been 
practised  since  the  time  of  Sir  Uvedale  Price,  and  later  on,  J.  Claudius 
Loudon.  Mr.  Mawson’s  rules  are  that  grounds  immediately  surrounding 
the  house  or  mansion  should  present  some  coherence  and  uniformity 
with  the  style  of  architecture  adopted.  Thus  for  Grecian  designs 
there  would  be  more  of  a  strictly  geometrical  plan  adopted  in  the 
making  of  the  contiguous  garden,  easing  off  the  formalism  by  degrees 
as  distance  was  measured  between  the  house  and  the  further  lying 
grounds.  In  houses  whose  outline  presents  rounded  curves,  the  freer 
gardenesque  design,  as  opposed  to  the  geometrically  formal,  could  be 
brought  right  up  to  the  walls  of  the  building,  because  there  would 
here  be  a  true  coherence  and  conformity.  Mr.  Mawson  has  not 
followed  the  older  school  of  garden  designers  in  every  principle, 
however.  His  good  sense  leads  him  to  deprecate  the  law  of  “  deceptive 
planting,”  which  was  that  perspective  was  obtained  by  a  system  of 
planting  trees  with  deep  toned  foliage  as  a  background  to  the  lightest 
tinted  trees  that  could  be  selected  for  foregrouud  employment.  Again, 
the  older  masters  practised  the  art  of  deceiving  one  as  to  the  apparent 
extent  of  gardens  and  grounds  when  these  happened  to  be  less  exten¬ 
sive  than  the  dignity  of  the  mansion  demanded.  Their  principle  was 
never  to  show  more  than  a  very  restricted  area  of  ground  in  any 
single  view.  By  certain  rules  in  planting  this  was  easily  managed,  and 
very  limited  domains  were  falsely  impressed  on  one  as  being  much 
more  extensive  than  they  really  were,  from  the  fact  that  the  designer’s 
art  had  prevented  any  view  of  the  grounds  as  a  whole  from  being 
apparent  in  one  comprehensive  survey. 
In  the  choice  of  trees  and  shrubs  when  planting,  the  author  prefers 
masses  of  one  species  rather  than  a  great  mixture.  This  is  laudable 
when  woods  and  forests  are  the  subject  considered,  but  we  confess  a 
preference  to  as  many  varieties  of  trees  and  shrubs  as  space  will 
allow  in  the  shrubberies  and  kept  gronnds  ;  the  more  and  the  better 
they  are  the  greater  the  interest.  The  massing  system  is  perfectly 
correct  where  space  allows  one  to  carry  it  into  full  effect. 
•  The  opening  chapter  of  the  book  is  devoted  to  a  succinct  history  of 
garden  making,  old  and  new  ;  after  which,  in  rotation,  come  ohapters 
dealing  with  the  site  and  its  treatment,  fences,  gateways,  terraces, 
flower  gardens,  lawns,  walks,  drives,  the  position  of  greenhouses  and 
fruit  houses,  &c.,  together  with  the  erection  of  fountains,  and  the 
treatment  of  water  in  streams,  pools,  and  ponds.  The  subject  of 
planting  for  landscape  effect,  also  the  formal  arrangement  of  trees,  with 
chapters  on  kitchen  garden  and  orchards,  are  likewise  furnished. 
Numerous  samples  of  finished  garden  designs  are  provided,  and  quite  a 
host  of  plans,  sections,  and  sketched  details,  not  omitting  the  more 
elaborate  illustrations.  To  the  gardener  or  employer  seeking  for  advice 
or  ideas  on  the  making  or  altering  of  their  gardens  or  estates  we  recom¬ 
mend  Mr.  Mawson’s  book.  The  illustrations  upon  page  309  and  313, 
kindly  lent  by  Mr.  Mawson,  are  two  of  the  many  with  which  the 
work  abounds. 
*  “The -Art  and  Craft  of  Garden  Making,”  by  Thomas  H.  Mawson, 
London.  Published  by  B.  T.  Batsford,  94,  High  Holborn ;  and  Geo. 
Newnes,  Ltd.,  Southampton  Street,  Strand.  1901.  Price  21s. 
