October  3,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
321 
some  late  Peaches.  As  the  wood  in  some  late  unheated  houses  is  not 
too  ripe,  the  house  may  be  kept  almost  closed  by  day,  so  as  to  secure  a 
good  heat,  admitting  sufficient  air  to  insure  a  circulation,  continuing  the 
ventilation  at  night.  Any  trees  that  have  too  gross  wood  should  have  a 
trenoh  taken  out  as  deep  as  the  roots,  and  about  one-third  the  distance 
from  the  stem  the  trees  cover  of  trellis,  and  left  open  for  a  fortnight, 
then  filling  in  firmly. — St.  Albans. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden . 
Gathering  Filberts  and  Cob  Nuts. — The  nuts  are  now  ready  to 
gather,  and  should  be  laid  in  a  dry  place  where  they  can  receive  plenty 
of  air  to  thoroughly  dry.  They  are  best  stored  in  earthenware  jars, 
which  may  be  kept  closely  secured  down  so  that  the  kernels  may  be 
kept  fresh  until  spring.  Retain  the  husks  on  the  nuts. 
Preparing  Soil  for  Fruit  Trees. — As  the  planting  season  is  approach¬ 
ing  the  positions  where  fruit  trees  are  to  be  planted  must  be  prepared 
in  readiness  for  the  reception  of  the  trees  in  a  month’s  time.  In 
preparing  a  site  for  standard  trees,  which  are  usually  placed  20  to 
30  feet  apart,  take  out  the  soil  two  spits  deep  from  a  circle  8  feet  in 
diameter.  The  bottom  spit  may  then  be  well  broken  up,  and  the  soil 
again  returned,  not,  as  a  rule,  adding  manure,  but  some  loamy  soil  can 
be  introduced  with  advantage,  as  well  as  burnt  refuse,  to  improve  the 
material  for  planting  in.  Should  the  situation  be  damp  it  is  advisable 
to  raise  the  soil  above  the  ordinary  level,  introducing  a  layer  of  broken 
brickbats  at  the  depth  of  2  feet.  The  ground  for  small  trees  should  be 
entirely  trenched  over  to  the  depth  of  two  spits,  breaking  up  the  bottom 
well.  Little  or  no  manure  is  needed  for  Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  or 
Cherries;  but  for  small  fruits,  including  Gooseberries,  Currants, 
Raspberries,  and  Blackberries,  employ  a  liberal  quantity  of  manure 
when  trenching  the  ground.  Soil  prepared  now  will  be  in  excellent 
condition  for  planting  later  on.  It  has  sufficient  time  to  become 
consolidated,  and  should  work  well  and  be  friable. 
Thinning  Branches  of  Wall  Trees. — It  is  frequently  the  oase  that  wall 
tree  are  hampered  with  too  many  branches,  owing  to  their  having  been 
originated  in  the  first  instance  too  closely  together.  The  spurs,  too, 
may  be  far  more  numerous  than  they  ought,  and  if  old  and  elongated  it 
is  certain  they  are  the  means  of  causing  injury  to  those  in  their 
vicinity.  In  conjunction,  therefore,  with  reducing  the  number  of  the 
branches,  say  to  a  foot  apart,  also  thin  out  the  spurs,  and  shorten  them 
where  elongated.  In  some  cases  young  growths  may  take  the  place 
of  old  branohes  with  great  advantage  to  the  trees;  indeed,  a  gradual 
recuperation  may  be  frequently  effected  by  displacing  a  certain  amount 
of  old  growths  each  year  in  favour  of  new,  thereby  entirely 
transforming  the  trees  from  a  crowded  and  unfruitful  state  to  a  possibly 
fruitful  and  profitable  condition.  If,  in  addition  to  the  crowding  of 
branches  and  spurs,  the  foreright  shoots  have  not  been  shortened  back 
at  the  proper  time,  this  will  also  be  imperative,  though  the  same  good 
cannot  result  from  this  late  treatment  as  when  carried  out  at  the  proper 
time.  One  advantage  of  thinning  and  regulating  crowded  trees  now  is 
that  the  foliage  is  on,  which  makes  it  easier  to  see  when  the  branches 
are  sufficiently  wide  apart. 
Applying  Liquid  Manure.  —  Nothing  is  more  beneficial  to  old 
established  fruit  trees  whioh  may  need  extra  support  at  the  roots  than 
to  enrich  the  soil  to  the  full  extent  of  the  spread  of  the  branches  with 
rich  liquid  from  the  farmyard.  Food  of  this  character  is  best  applied 
when  the  soil  is  moist.  The  recent  rains  have  rendered  the  soil  in  the 
best  condition  for  receiving  the  liquid,  which  may  be  given  moderately 
strong.  In  some  positions,  however,  it  takes  long  continued  rain  to 
thoroughly  moisten  the  ground,  and  as  the  trees  growing  in  such 
positions  need  the  soil  enriching,  recourse  must  be  had  to  soaking  the 
soil  with  clear  water  to  bring  it  to  the  required  state  of  moisture.  Trees 
growing  against  walls,  for  instance,  are  much  more  subject  to  becoming 
dry  than  those  in  the  open,  the  wall  assisting  largely  in  draining  the 
moisture  away,  and  also  preventing  the  rain  reaching  the  ground  to  a 
great  extent.  The  most  generally  useful  and  readily  available  liquid 
consists  of  the  drainings  from  the  farmyard,  where  animal  urine  and 
percolations  from  a  mixed  manure  heap  collect  into  a  common  tank. 
Such  liquid  is  especially  valuable,  as  it  contains  the  chief  constituents 
of  plant  food.  Soapsuds  and  household  slops,  if  mixed  in  the  proportion 
of  four  parts  of  the  former  to  one  of  the  latter,  are  extremely  fertilising 
in  their  effects.  Fowl  manure,  pigeon  dung,  and  soot  are  powerful 
manures,  but  a  peck  of  either  mixed  in  20  gallons  of  water  will  not 
harm  fruit  trees  applied  to  the  roots  at  this  season  when  the  soil  is 
moist.  Trees  in  a  weakly  and  impoverished  state  will  not  be  benefited 
immediately  so  far  is  apparent,  but  an  improvement  will  be  noticeable 
the  following  and  succeeding  years. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — When  the  trees  have  been  cleared  of 
fruit,  the  removal  of  supei  fluous  wood  is  very  necessary  tp  make  room 
for  the  successional  shoots,  so  that,  they  may  become  thoroughly  well 
ripened.  First  cut  out  the  old  bearing  growths  from  which  the  fruit 
has  recently  been  removed.  Weakly,  crowded,  and  ill-placed  shoots  or 
branches  may  be  also  dispensed  with,  this  affording  an  opportunity  to 
rearrange  the  whole  lot  of  branches,  and  thus  allow  ample  space  for  all. 
This  pruning  and  readjustment  now  will  render  less  attention  necessary 
at  the  winter  pruning,  while  the  trees  have  the  benefit  of  increased  air, 
light,  and  space  during  the  completion  of  wood  ripening. — Lymington, 
Hants. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
Xiondon,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  matters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
Mushrooms  with  Light  GUIs,  and  Others  with  Dark  (Fistfor). — - 
The  specimens  are  simply  forms  of  the  cultivated  Mushroom,  Agaricus 
campestris  var.  hortensis,  whioh  is  very  variable,  and  probably  due 
solely  to  varietal  tendencies,  for  the  variations  arise  when  the  spawn  is 
identical,  and  the  manure  and  soil  the  same.  The  light-gilled  form 
accords  with  the  sub-variety  Buchanani,  and  the  dark  is  the  ordinary 
cultivated  variety. 
Ivy  on  Trees  (Subscriber) . — Undoubtedly  when  Ivy  encircles  the  whole 
stem  of  a  tree,  and  has  grown  thick  and  old,  it  has  an  injurious  effeot. 
The  stout,  main  branohes  of  the  Ivy  tighten  around  the  ever  widening 
trunk  with  steadily  increasing  firmness,  and  besides  shutting  out  light 
and  air,  the  Ivy  may  cheok  sap-flow.  Foresters  never  allow  trees  to 
be  Ivy  clad,  even  though  they  are  so  beautiful  when  robed  with  the 
dark  green  leaves  of  this  climber.  Of  course  it  is  easy  to  destroy  the 
Ivy  by  cutting  the  main  stems  at  the  base.  We  have  never  seen  a  tree 
that  has  been  actually  killed  through  the  effects  of  Ivy. 
Name  of  Grub  (A  Ten-year-old  Reader).  —  The  enemy  of  your 
Cyclamens  is  the  grub  or  larva  of  that  too  common  pest  the  black 
weevil,  Otiorhynohus  sulcatus.  These  live  and  feed  through  the 
winter,  and  the  beetles  which  appear  afterwards  do  damage  to  fruit, 
especially  the  Vine.  This  grub  is  not  easy  to  kill  ;  the  application  of 
lime  or  soot  has  been  found  efficacious,  but  these  cannot  sometimes  be 
used.  They  are  killed  by  solution  of  nitrate  of  soda,  or  a  weak  solution  of 
carbolio  acid,  also  by  the  well-known  liquor  compounded  of  paraffin,  soda, 
and  weak  soapsuds.  It  is  probable  quassia  water  would  destroy  them. 
Melon  Foliage  Gone  Brown  ( J .  J.). — The  leaves  are  affected  by  the 
Cucumber  and  Melon  mildew,  Plasmopara  (Peronospora)  cubensis, 
which  has  only  recently  been  known  in  England,  though  very  destruc¬ 
tive  when  it  does  occur,  the  foliage  cfllapsing  in  a  few  days  if  the 
disease  is  allowed  to  run  its  course  unchecked.  Treatment  with 
ammoniacal  solution  of  copper  carbonate  may  be  useful  in  checking  the 
pest,  the  spraying  being  very  light,  and  the  under  side  of  the  leaves 
reached.  The  roots  of  the  plant  are  quite  clean,  there  not  being 
anything  wrong  with  them  or  the  root  stem.  The  fruit  is  affected  by 
the  so-called  ripe  rot  (Gloeosporium  fructigenum),  though  it  usually 
attacks  the  fruit  when  about  half  grown,  and  produces  a  minute  canker- 
like  spot  or  spots  (in  the  case  of  the  Melon),  which  continue  to  enlarge 
and  in  a  rounded  form.  When  the  fruit  is  ripe,  or  near  it,  the  patches 
become  brown,  sunken,  and  decay  rapidly  sets  in,  the  flesh  of  the  fruit 
having  a  very  bitter  taste,  and  the  smell  becomes  offensive.  Probably 
early  treatment  with  potassium  sulphide,  1  oz.  to  3  gallons  of  water 
would  act  as  a  preventive  of  disease,  or  ammoniacal  copper  carbonate 
may  be  used,  applying  in  the  finest  possible  spray.  Destroy  all  affeoted 
leaves  or  plants  and  fruits  by  fire. 
Carbonate  of  Copper  Preparation  (F.  W.). — To  manufacture  copper 
carbonate.  In  a  tub  or  barrel  dissolve  6  lbs.  of  copper  sulphate  in  hot 
water.  In  another  suitable  vessel  dissolve  7  lbs.  of  washing  soda  in 
hot  water.  When  the  two  solutions  are  cool,  pour  the  seoond  slowly 
into  the  first,  then  add  water  until  the  tub  or  half-barrel  (25  gallons)  is 
full.  Stir  thoroughly,  and  let  the  solution  stand  twenty-four  hours,  then 
syphon  off  the  clear  liquid  and  add  fresh  water.  Stir  again,  and  again 
allow  the  solution  to  stand  twenty-four  hours  ;  syphon  off  the  clear 
liquid  as  before,  then  remove  and  dry  the  sediment,  which  is  carbonate  of 
copper.  Using  the  above  quantities  of  copper  sulphate  and  washing  soda 
there  will  be  formed  about  3  lbs.  of  copper  carbonate.  This  precipitated 
copper  carbonate  may  be  used  in  water  for  spraying  at  the  rate  of  1  oz. 
to  25  gallons  of  water.  It  does  not  injure  foliage,  but  is  not  so 
effective  as  a  fungicide  as  ammoniacal  solution  of  copper  oarbonate. 
This  is  made  as  follows: — Water,  9  gallons;  strong  (26°)  aqua 
ammonia,  12  fluid  ozs.  ;  copper  carbonate,  1  oz.  Make  the  copper 
carbonate  into  a  thin  paste  by  adding  sufficient  water.  Add  the 
ammonia  water  slowly,  and  when  dissolved  add  the  water  to  make 
9  gallons.  Thus  a  clear  deep  blue  solution  is  obtained,  whioh  does  not 
become  cloudy  or  disfigure  foliage  like  Bordeaux  mixture.  You  mention 
carbonate  of  copper  and  sulphate  of  copper,  which  is  the  fungicide 
known  as  Eau  Celeste  modified.  The  formula  is  as  follows: — Two 
pounds  of  sulphate  of  copper,  2^  lbs.  oarbonate  of  soda,  and  1£  pint 
of  ammonia  (22Q) ;  water  32  gallons.  Dissolve  the  copper  sulphate  in 
8  gallons  of  water,  add  the  ammonia  water,  then  the  remainder  of  the 
water,  and  add  the  carbonate  of  soda.  Stir  thoroughly,  and  the  solution 
is  ready  for  use.  We  do  not  advise  this,  as  it  sometimes  injures  the 
foliage;  but  the  ammoniacal  solution  of  copper  carbonate,  which  has 
superseded  Eau  Celeste,  simple  or  modified. 
