388 
October  24,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
The  Kitchen  Garden. 
LIFTING  BEET. — Beet  may  now  be  carefully  lifted  and 
.stored  in  a  frost-proof  place.  The  actual  drawing  of  the  roots 
from  the  ground  should  be  carefully  done.  Loosen  the  tap  root 
with  a  fork,  as  low  as  possible,  which  will  allow  of  the  root  being 
readily  drawn  out.  The  foliage  must  not  be  cut  off,  but  twisted 
off  a  few  inches  above  the  crown.  Lay  in  a  shed  to  dry,  and 
eventually  store  in  a  cool  shed  between  layers  of  dry  ashes  or 
sand.  Should  much  damp  soil  adhere  to  the  roots,  or  they  are 
stored  in  wet  material,  a  growth  of  rootlets  is  set  up,  and  leaves 
also  push. 
CARROTS  AND  TURNIPS. — Full  grown  Carrots  and  a 
portion  of  summer  sown  Turnips  should  be  lifted  and  stored. 
The  tops  may  be  removed  and  the  roots  well  dried  before  they  are 
stored.  Place  them  in  a  position  where  severe  frost  will  not 
harm  them  when  given  a  little  extra  covering.  For  the  present, 
however,  it  suffices  to  place  them  in  layers  between  dry  sand  or 
ashes. 
PARSNIPS. — These  roots  may  remain  in  the  ground  with 
advantage.  A  few  may  be  lifted  and  stored,  however,  on  the 
approach  of  severe  frost. 
SALSAFY  AND  SCORZONERA. — The  best  roots  of  these 
may  be  lifted.  Twist  off  the  leaves,  like  Beet,  and  store  the 
roots  between  layers  of  dry  sand  or  ashes  in  a  shed  or  dry, 
•cellar. 
W  INTER  GREENS. — Remove  all  yellow  and  decaying 
leaves  from  Brussels  Sprouts,  Broccoli,  Savoys,  and  Kale. 
Cauliflowers  turning  in  should  be  protected  from  frost  by  laying 
or  breaking  some  leaves  over  the  flowers.  Hoe  between  the 
autumn  planted  Cabbage,  and  place  out  more  plants  if  necessary. 
Soot  is  beneficial  where  slugs  abound,  and  it  will  also  enrich  the 
soil. 
CELERY. — Late  rows  of  Celery  still  remaining  unearthed 
ought  to  receive  the  last  moulding  up  if  the  plants  are  large 
enough,  making  the  sides  of  the  ridge  moderately  steep  so  as  to 
drain  off  superfluous  water.  In  very  wet  and  retentive  soil,  some 
light  material  such  as  ashes  should  be  worked  round  the  plants, 
finishing  the  earthing  with  the  ordinary  soil. 
IMPROVING  SOIL. — It  is  much  easier  to  grow  good 
vegetables,  especially  in  dry  periods  during  summer,  when  the 
soil  is  thoroughly  well  prepared  by  deep  working.  At  the  present 
season  of  the  year  much  ground  is  vacant  after  the  removal  of 
crops,  and  an  opportunity  is  afforded  of  giving  special  attention 
to  the  important  matter  of  deep  cultivation.  Trenching  the 
ground  2  to  3  feet  deep  is  the  best  method  of  effecting  the 
desired  improvement,  though  in  some  cases  it  may  not  be 
desirable  to  completely  reverse  the  spits  of  soil,  burying  the  good 
■surface  soil  and  bringing  inert  material  which  may  constitute  the 
subsoil  to  the  top.  This  difficulty  may  be  overcome,  however,  by 
the  process  of  bastard  trenching,  whereby  the  soil  may  be 
thoroughly  moved  to  the  required  depth,  still,  however,  retaining 
the  various  layers  in  their  respective  original  positions.  Not 
only  moving  the  soil  deeply, but  freeing  it  of  deep-rooted  weeds,  is 
a  detail  of  the  work  of  improvement.  Where  much  of  this  class 
of  weeds  abound  the  process  of  clearing  is  rendered  somewhat 
difficult  by  the  fact  that  small  portions  of  roots  left  in  the  soil  are 
liable  to  grow,  hence  it  is  advisable  not  to  mix  manure  in  such 
soil,  as  it  will  be  necessary  to  fork  over  the  ground  again  several 
times  if  possible  and  remove  as  many  of  the  roots  as  can  be  found. 
BI  RNING  RI  BBISH. — All  material  that  will  not  readily 
decompose  may  be  disposed  of  by  fire.  Pea,  Bean,  and  Potato 
haulm,  Cabbage  and  Cauliflower  stems,  hedge  clippings,  weeds, 
leaves,  long  grass,  the  prunings  of  shrubs,  rough  sweepings  and 
sticks,  can  all  be  reduced  to  ashes.  The  driest  materials  must  be 
used  to  commence  the  fire,  which,  when  well  alight,  will  take  the 
other  refuse.  If  piled  well  round  and  over  the  fire  combustion 
will  be  slow,  and  instead  of  a  rapidly  burning  fire  it  will  be  more 
of  a  smother.  The  materials  are  thus  gradually  reduced  to  ashes 
and  charcoal,  and  a  valuable  heap  of  burnt  refuse  is  secured,  which 
is  useful  in  many  ways  in  the  kitchen  garden. — Lymington, 
Hants. 
Gardeners’  Provident  and  Charitable  Institutions. 
The  Gardeners’  Royal  Benevolent  Institution. — Secretary 
Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram,  175,  Victoria  Street,  SAV.  ’ 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society _ 
Secretary ,  Mr.  W.  Collins,  9,  Martindale  Road,  Balham,  London.  SAY. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund. — Secretary,  Mr.  Brian  Wynne 
8.  Danes  Inn  Strand,  London,  W.C. 
- «•*•> - 
South  African  Fruit  Growing. 
.  Competent  authorities,  write  to  the  effect  that,  “  Fruit-grow- 
especially  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  larger  towns,  is 
capable  of  extensive  development,  and  it  is  a  noteworthy  fact 
that  enormous  profits  have  in  the  past  been  realised  from  this 
important  industry.” 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  on  m  tters 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
CARNATION  RUST  (P.  McK.). — This  fungus,  Puccinia  aren- 
arige,  may  be  checked  by  sponging  with  a  rose-red  solution  of 
potassium  permanganate,  or  loz  of  the  crystals  dissolved  in  3 
gallons  of  water,  or  a  tablespoonful  of  Condy’s  red  fluid  to  a  quart 
of  water.  It  may  also  be  checked  by  spraying  with  ammoniacal 
solution  of  copper  carbonate,  made  by  mixing  loz  of  carbonate 
of  copper  and  lfoz  of  carbonate  of  ammonia,  and  dissolving  in 
hot  water  (half  a  pint).  When  thoroughly  dissolved  add  4  gallons 
of  cold  water.  This  does  not  discolour  the  foliage  like  dilute 
Bordeaux  mixture,  which,  however,  is  effective  against  the  rust. 
Under  the  circumstances  we  advise  the  rose-red  solution  of- potas¬ 
sium  permanganate. 
MAGGOTS  IN  GRAPES  (F.  W.  S.).— You  will  be  interested  to 
know  that  the  fly  is  that  known  as  the  Fever  Fly,  Dilophus  vul¬ 
garis,  it  having  developed  from  the  pupa.  The  larvae,  according 
to  Curtis,  does  much  damage  in  the  garden.  It  attacks  Hop 
canes  in  some  seasons,  but  yours  is  the  only  recorded  instance  of 
its  appearing  in  Grapes.  We  publish  on  pp.  384,  385,  an  account 
of  its  attack,  with  illustrations,  by  Mr.  G.  Abbey.  Perhaps  the 
flies  were  attracted  by  the  very  indifferent  boite  dust,  and  the 
larvae  found  it  suitable  feeding  stuff ;  but  that  would  not  account 
for  the  attack  on  the  Grapes.  We  think  it  arose  from  the  mulch¬ 
ing  of  manure  and  the  ammonia  given  off,  decay  being  set  up  in 
the  Grapes,  and  the  flies  simply  deposited  eggs  on  the  decaying 
bunchels,  and  the  maggots  hastened  the  putrefaction.  The  treat¬ 
ment  you  propose  is  correct,  there  not  being  anything  like 
thorough  cleanliness  and  a  sweet  condition  of  the  border  to 
secure  health  in  Vines. 
BARE  PATCHES  ON  LAWN  (A.  D.).— The  bare  patches  are 
no  doubt  due  to  fungi  of  the  fairy  ring  (Maras  mi  us  oreades)  class, 
as  you  found,  on  removing  a  portion  of  the  turf,  a  compact  mass 
of  fungus  being  brought  to  view.  It  is  difficult  to  get  rid  of  the 
fungus  without  breaking  up  the  lawn,  but  much  good  may  be  done 
by  the  use  of  lawn  manure,  not  lawn  sand,  applying  51b  of  lawn 
manure  per  rod  (30f  square  yards)  now  and  again  in  the  spring. 
It  should  be  applied  when  the  grass  is  dry,  but  the  soil  moist,  and 
to  ensure  an  even  spreading  by  hand,  it  should  be  mixed  pre¬ 
viously  with  a  larger  bulk  of  dry  earth.  If  used  alone,  a  large¬ 
sized  kitchen  dredger  will  insure  an  even  spread.  The  lawn 
manure  may  be  had  of  manure  dealers,  nurserymen,  and  horticul¬ 
tural  sundriesmen  advertising  in  the  Journal  of  Horticulture,  or 
you  may  apply  to  Messrs.  Richardson,  Skeldersgate,  York.  It 
should  have  a  guarantee  minima  of  12  to  15  per  cent,  ammonia, 
and  12  to  18  per  cent,  phosphates.  The  manure  may  brown  the 
grass  temporarily,  but  it  will  soon  recover  after  rain.  It  will 
stimulate  the  finer  grasses,  discourage  daisies  and  other  broad¬ 
leaved  weeds,  and  greatly  upset  the  fungi,  rendering  the  lawn 
even  all  over  in  verdure. 
DISEASED  VIOLET  LEAVES  (F.  C.).— The  leaves  are  in¬ 
fested  by  the  Viola  mildew,  Peronospora  violse,  which  has  of  late 
years  done  considerable  injury  to  the  cultivated  Neapolitan  and 
its  several  forms  or  varieties.  It  produces  large  brown  spots  or 
patches  on  the  leaf,  often  involving  the  whole  surface,  and  is 
particularly  destructive  to  young  leaves.  The  under  side  of  the 
leaves,  is  more  or  less  covered  with  a  somewhat  dense,  dingy,  pale 
violeUgrey  felt,  which  under  the  microscope  is  seen  to  consist  of 
conidiophores  and  bearing  spores  or  conidia,  and  later  on  the 
resting  spores  (oospores)  are  formed  in  the  dying  parts  of  the  leaf. 
The  fungus  is  most  abundant  in  damp  weather,  and  on  plants  in 
frames,  and  damp  with  the  placing  of  the  plants  close  together,  as 
is  the  common  practice,  is  greatly  conducive  of  the  disease.  The 
best  means  of  combating  the  fungus  is  removing  all  affected 
leaves  as  they  appear,  and  burning  them,  admitting  air  freely 
on  all  favourable  occasions,  even  tilting  the  lights  when  the 
weather  is  wet,  so  as  to  promote  a  circulation  of  air.  In  addi¬ 
tion  to  this,  the  plants  may  be  dusted  occasionally  with  air- 
slaked  lime.  We  have  also  found  dusting  with  charcoal  broken 
up  small  very  useful,  as  it  to  a  certain  extent  renders  the  atmo¬ 
sphere  sweet,  and  prevents  damp.  With  the  -foregoing  attended 
to,  we  have  not  found  it  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  fungicides, 
for  with  plenty  of  air  and  not  too  much  water  the  fungus  is  re¬ 
tarded  in  spreading. 
