October  31,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER k 
395 
Roses  for  General  Cultivation. 
The  following  lists  have  been  drawn  up  with  a  view  to 
.^assist  those  who  have  bijt  little  knowledge  of  the  different  j 
kinds  of  Roses  in  making  a  selection  for  their  own  garden. 
All  the  established  varieties  are  arranged  under  the  various 
headings,  according  to  their  order  of  merit,  so  that,  however 
small  the  number  of  Roses  required  may  be,  a  satisfactory 
choice  can  readily  be  made.  The  varieties  marked  with  an 
asterisk  are  either  quite  new  or  of  recent  introduction. 
Exhibition  Roses, 
Hybrid  Perfetuals. — Pink:  Mrs.  John  Laing,  Mrs.  R.  G. 
Sharman  -  Crawford,  Killarney,*  Mrs.  Cocker.*  Crimson: 
Ulrich  Brunner,  Dupuv  Jamain,  Fisher  Holmes,  General 
Jacqueminot,  Alfred  Colomb,  Captain  Hayward  Rose  : 
Suzanne  M.  Rodocanachi.  Dark  Crimson:  Prince  Arthur, 
Prince  C.  de  Rohan.  Charles  Lefebvre.  Hybrid  Teas. — 
White  :  Viscountess  Folkestone,  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria, 
Bessie  Brown.*  Pink:  La  France,  Caroline  Testout,  Mrs. 
TV.  J.  Grant.  Rose:  Marqmse  Litta.  Teas  and  Noisettes  — 
White:  Souvenir  de  S  A.  Prince,  Inuocente  Pirola,  White 
Marnan  Cochet.*  Pin/c:  Maman  Cochet,  Souvenir  d’un  Ami, 
Mrs.  E.  Mawley.*  Yellow:  Marie  Van  Houtte,  Madame 
Hoste,  Caroline  Kuster. 
Garden  or  Decorative  Roses. 
Summer-flowering.  —  Provence  :  Commou  or  Cabbage 
(pink).  Moss  :  Common  or  Old  (pink),  Blanche  Moreau 
(white).  Damask:  Rosa  Mundi  (striped).  Austrian  Briar: 
Austrian  Copper  (coppery  red),  Austrian  Yellow  (yellow), 
Harrisoni  (yellow),  Soleil  d’Or*  (yellow).  Hybrid  Sweet 
Briars:  Janet’s  Pride  (white,  tipped  crimson),  Lady  Penzance 
'(coppery  yellow),  Jeannie  Deans  (crimson).  Climbing  Roses; 
Crimson  Rambler  (crimson).  Bennett’s  Seedling  (white), 
Claire  Jacquier  (yellow),  Carmine  Pillar  (carmine,  single),  The 
Garland  (blush),  Rosa  himalayica*  (white). 
Autumn-Flowering.  —  Hybrid  Teas  :  Gustave  Regis 
(yellow),  Griiss  an  Teplitz*  (crimson),  Madame  Jules  Grolez* 
(rose),  Souvenir  Hu  President  Carnot  (white),  Madame  Abel 
Chatenay  (pink),  Grand  Due  A.  de  Luxembourg*  (pink), 
Augustine  Guinoisseau  (white),  Bardou  Job  (crimson,  single). 
Bourbon:  Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison  (white).  China:  Old 
Blush  or  Common  Monthly  (pink),  Laurette  Messimy  (rose), 
Madame  Eugene  Resal  (rose),  Mrs.  Bosanquet  (whitQ.  Teas 
and  Noisettes  :  L’ Ideal  (metallic  red),  Madame  Lamhard  (rose), 
G.  Nabonnand  (flesh),  Beaute  Inconstante  (metallic  red), 
Souvenir  de  Catherine  Guillot*  (coppery  carmine),  Mrs.  B.  R. 
Cant*  (rose),  Corailina*  (crimson).  Perpetual  Scotch:  Stan- 
well  Perpetual  (blush)  Polyantha :  Madame  Anna  Maria  de 
Montravel  (white),  Perle  d’Or  (yellow),  Cecile  Brunner  (pink), 
Leonie  Lamesch*  (copper  and  yellow),  Eugenie  Lamesch 
(yellow).  Japanese  :  Blanc  Double  de  Coubert  (white),  Alba 
(white,  single),  Madame  G.  Bruant  (white).  Climbing:  Gloire 
de  Dijon  (yellow),  Long  worth  Rambler  (crimson),  Madame 
Alfred  Carriere  (white),  W.  A.  Richardson  (yellow),  R,eine 
Olga  de  Wurtemburg  (crimson),  Reve  d’Or  (yellow),  Aimee 
Vibert  (white),  Wichuriana*  (trailing).— E.  M.,  Berkhamsted. 
- - 
Renovating  Vine  Borders. 
In  soils  of  a  suitable  nature  and  the  cultural  treatment 
proper,  Vines  flourish  for  an  indefinite  period.  Artificial 
borders,  however,  are  mostly  provided  for  Vines  under  glass 
and  the  roots  confined  to  limited  areas.  In  not  a  few  caess 
the  soil  becomes  defective,  an  unfavourable  rooting  medium 
implying  unsuitable  nutrition,  and  the  results  in  crops  are 
unsatisfactory.  Where  such  is  the  case  thorough  renovation 
of  the  border  is  desirable.  In  many  instances,  however,  a 
partial  renewal  of  the  soil,  or  such  portion  of  it  as  will  secure 
active  feeders,  is  generally  attended  with  favourable  results. 
Where  Vines,  therefore,  are  not  in  a  satisfactory  con¬ 
dition,  no  time  should  be  lost  in  removing  the  soil  down  to 
the  roots  and  picking  it  from  amongst  them,  so  as  to  displace 
as  much  of  the  old  stuff  as  possible  with  fresh  compost,  and 
it  is  best  effected  whilst  the  leaves  are  upon  the  stems,  but 
not  before  they  have  performed  their  functions  to  the  extent 
of  perfecting  the  buds  and  wood.  In  case  the  border  is 
found  very  unsatisfactory,  and  the  roots  few  and  deep,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  remove  all  the  soil  and  renew  the  whole 
border,  commencing  with  the  drainage,  wdiich  should  be 
clear  and  9in  to  12in  deep,  with  a  3-in  layer  of  fine  material 
i  on  the  top,  old  mortar  rubbish  freed  from  pieces  of  wood 
answering  perfectly  There  must  be  a  3in  or  4in  drain  under 
the  drainage,  with  the  proper  fall  and  outlet  to  carry  off 
superfluous  water. 
The  soil  should  consist  of  the  top  2in  or  3in  of  a  pasture, 
where  the  staple  is  a  good  yellow  or  hazel  loam,  with  one- 
sixth  of  old  mortar  rubbish,  one-twelfth  of  charred  refuse  or 
wood  ashes,  and  one  hundredth  of  crushed  bones,  all  well 
incorporated.  Two  depths  of  compost  is  ample,  allowing 
about  6in  more  for  settling,  and  the  roots  should  be  laid  on 
the  top  foot  in  layers  according  to  their  inclination,  en¬ 
couraging  those  from  near  the  collar  or  at  it  by  laying  them 
just  beneath  the  surface,  making  the  whole  compact,  and 
leaving  the  soil  moderately  dry. 
If  the  roots  are  inside  and  outside  one  part  may  be  done 
one  year  and  the  other  the  next  without  any  danger  of  loss 
of  crop.  Take  care  to  preserve  all  the  roots  possible,  but 
cutting  off  broken  and  paring  bruised  ends  smooth,  and 
keep  them  as  much  as  practicable  from  the  drying  influences 
of  the  atmosphere  whilst  the  operation  is  in  progress.  If 
the  roots  are  long  and  bare  of  fibres  notch  them  at  about 
every  foot  or  18in  on  the  under  side  from  a  quarter  to  half 
through  with  the  transverse  cut  next  the  stem,  and  this  will 
induce  fibres  to  form  at  the  notches.  Afford  a  good  water¬ 
ing  to  settle  the  soil  about  the  roots,  then  sprinkle  on  each 
square  yard  and  point  or  scratch  in  4oz  of  some  approved 
fertiliser,  mulch  with  about  an  inch  of  short  manure,  and 
cover  outside  borders  with  a  few  inches  thickness  of  leaves 
with  a  little  litter  over  them. — G.  A. 
- - 
Retarded  Lily  of  the  Valley  Crowns. 
At  the  present  season  of  the  year,  how  greatly  gardeners  and 
florists  appreciate  the  fine  spikes  of  Lily  of  the  Valley  which 
may  be  obtained  from  retarded  crowns,  for  choice  flowers  are 
usually  scarce  during  October  and  November.  At  the  time  of  writ¬ 
ing  King  Frost  has  spared  the  outdoor  flowers,  and  the  borders 
are  yet  gay  with  Chrysanthemums,  Dahlias,  Michaelmas  Daisies, 
and  Helianthemums.  Under  glass,  many  varieties  of  Chrysanthe¬ 
mums  are  already  in  full  beauty,  and  onward  till  Christmas  the 
popular  “  Autumn  Queen  ”  will  supply  hosts  of  flowers  for 
decorative  purposes.  The  Lily  of  the  Valley  and  the  Roman 
Hyacinth  will,  however,  during  that  period  be  principally  relied 
upon  to  supply  sweet  choice  white  flowers.  Although  retarded 
crowns  of  the  former  may  be  brought  into  flower  quite  easily,  the 
amount  of  success  achieved  under  different  systems  varies  con¬ 
siderably.  Sometimes,  during  October,  when  the  weather  has 
been  bright  and  clear,  I  have  found  them  come  on  satisfactorily  if 
placed  under  a  hand-light,  and  kept  close  and  dark  for  a  time, 
in  a  comparatively  cool  house  which  is  heated  slightly  at  night. 
When,  however,  November  comes  round,  and  the  days  are 
damp  and  the  nights  cold,  I  find  by  far  the  better  results  are 
obtained  by  giving  the  crowns  bottom  heat.  If  kept  too  cool, 
the  flower-stalks  fail  to  lengthen  well,  and  as  progress  is  slow,  the 
bottom  bells  lose  their  freshness  before  the  terminal  ones  begin 
to  open.  I  have  at  various  times  attempted  to  grow  these  in  a 
variety  of  ways,  and  the  result  of  my  experiments  is  that  under 
the  following  conditions  they  succeed  splendidly : — -Place  the 
crowns  in  pots  or  boxes  as  soon  as  they  arrive,  employ  an  open 
compost  in  filling  them  in,  so  that  the  heat  will  pass  freely 
between  the  roots.  After  this  operation  is  performed,  place 
them  in  a  frame,  in  a  propagating  or  forcing  house,  where  there  is 
a  brisk  bottom  heat.  Water  thoroughly,  and  darken  the  frame 
until  the  spikes  of  flowers  begin  to  develop.  Then  admit  light 
and  air  by  degrees,  but  shade, from  sunshine.  Always  maintain  a 
moist  atmosphere,  and  allow  the  soil  to  get  slightly  dry,  then 
water  copiously  with  warm  water. 
If  too  much  water  is  given,  or  rather  I  should  write  if  the 
soil  is  kept  too  vret  and  sticky,  some  of  the  flowers,  especially  the 
weaker  ones,  will  turn  yellow.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  it  is 
allov’ed  to  get  too  dry,  the  longer  bells  will  quickly  lose  their 
freshness.  When  the  treatment  is  suitable,  and  the  crowns 
good,  the  flower  stems  will  be  long,  and  the  bells  large  and  fresh 
looking.  Florists,  as  a  rule,  prefer  pale  yellow  to  deep  green 
leaves,  and  the  tint  can  easily  be  regulated  by  a  greater  or  lesser 
amount  of  shading.  I  trust  this  note  may  be  helpful  to  some  who 
are  not  altogether  successful  in  their  treatment  of  retarded 
crowns.  If  such  watch  closely,  they  will  generally  be  able  to 
discover  the  exact  treatment  in  regard  to  heat  and  moisture, 
which  answers  the  best,  but  it  has  to  be  found  out  by  actual 
experience,  as  the  dividing  line  between  successful  and  unsuccess¬ 
ful  practice  is  a  fine  one  indeed. — H.  D. 
