October  31,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDEN LR 
409 
Aster  Novi-Angli®  var.  pulchellus. 
From  amongst  the  very  long  list  of  varieties  that  compose 
the  genus  commonly  named  Michaelmas  Daisies  or  Star-worts, 
no  more  impressively  handsome  or  richly  coloured  representative 
could  be  selected  than  that  one  of  the  Novi-Anglise  section  named 
pulchellus  (improved)  of  which  an  illustration  appears  on  page 
407.  The  name  signifies  “  beautiful,”  a  title  which  the  handsome 
purple  flower-sheaths  well  deserve.  Some  authorities  appear 
to  treat  the  variety  as  a  distinct  species ;  many  omit  to  mention 
it  at  all,  but  in  Mr.  Jones’s  very  complete  collection  at  Lewisham 
it  is  regarded  as  pertaining  in  all  characters  to  A.  Novi-Anglise, 
under  which  species  it  is  catalogued.  The  improved  variety  of 
pulchellus,  which  we  illustrate,  originated  as  a  seedling  in  Mr. 
Lee’s  garden  at  Clevedon,  about  1880 ;  it  nearly  approximates  in 
colour  to  the  A.  roseus.  The  disc  is  bright  yellow.  So  confused 
is  the  nomenclature  of  the  Aster  genus  that  the  true  identifica¬ 
tion  of  this  improved  form  may  be  a  matter  requiring  care. 
V/OHK/oil™  WEEK.. 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
AUTUMN  PLANTING. — The  season  for  planting  fruit  trees 
having  arrived,  advantage  must  be  taken  of  every  favourable 
opportunity  when  the  ground  works  easily  and  cleanly  by  reason 
^  dry,  to  insert  the  trees  and  bushes  in  the  ground* 
Although  early  planting  is  desirable,  and  the  sooner  it  is  carried 
out  the  better,  it  is  not  wise  to  do  so  when  the  soil  is  wet  and 
pasty.  The  wmrk  of  planting  can  be  carried  out  more  expedi¬ 
tiously,  and  with  greater  probability  of  the  trees  becoming 
quickly  established,  if  the  soil  is  of  a  crumbly  character,  so  as  to 
w-ork  among  the  fibres  when  these  are  spread  out  in  the  process 
of  planting.  Much  advantage  accrues  from  planting  fruit  trees 
m  autumn  rather  than  in  spring.  At  this  season  the  soil  is 
comparatively  warm  and  moist,  and  the  roots  will  quickly  take 
possession  and  emit  a  number  of  fresh  roots  before  winter.  This 
is  a  great  help  when  spring  arrives.  The  trees  push  strongly 
into  growth,  and  vigorous  shoots  result,  thus  occasioning  less 
trouble  m  the  summer  management. 
PREPARING  THE  GROUND. — Unless  the  ground  has  been 
previously  thoroughly  trenched  and  made  fertile  to  the  depth 
of  2ft,  this  ought  now  to  be  carried  out  previous  to  planting 
any  kind  of  trees  or  bushes.  In  trenching,  however,  keep  the 
indifferent  subsoil  to  the  bottom,  and  the  best  material  to  the 
top.  Whether  manure  should  be  added  in  the  preparation  of 
the  ground  depends  largely  on  the  sorts  to  be  planted.  Apples, 
Pears,  Plums,  Cherries,  Peaches  Nectarines,  and  Apricots  clo 
not  require  to  be  planted  in  rich  soil,  as  it  will  induce  over- 
vigorous  growth  and  prevent  fruiting.  On  the  other  hand, 
Gooseberries,  Currants,  Raspberries,  and  Blackberries  succeed 
best. when  planted  in  well  enriched  soil,  deeply  digging  and  work¬ 
ing  in  a  fair  amount  of  rotten  manure.  Stone  fruits  generally 
like  a  calcareous  soil — one  containing  lime — but  if  this  cannot  be 
secured  naturally,  much  good  will  result  from  the  addition  of  old 
pulverised  mortar  and  wood  ashes.  Loam  may  with  advantage 
be  added  to  any  poor  soil  rather  than  manure.  All  trees  and 
bushes  will  root  freely  in  it,  making  sturdy  and  abundant  roots 
TAKING  OUT  THE  HOLES. — The  holes  for  planting  in  the 
trees  should  always  be  formed  wide  and  shallow.  Deep  planting 
is  not  desirable,  as  the  roots  succeed  best  when  near  the  surface. 
Plenty  of  width  is  essential,  so  that  the  fibres  can  be  spread  out 
to  their  full  extent.  Let  the  base  of  the  hole  be  made  some¬ 
what  rounded,  and  the  soil  broken  well  down  and  pulverised 
PREPARING  THE  TREES.— Newly  obtained  fruit  trees 
always  require  a  considerable  amount  of  attention  in  regard  to 
the  roots.  In  lifting  trees  from  the  ground  in  the  nursery,  the 
roots  are  necessarily  broken  and  injured  to  some  extent.  This 
necessitates  pruning  them  back  to  smooth  parts,  which  causes 
the  wounds  to  heal  more  quickly  and  root  fibres  to  start  away. 
The  roots  of  the  trees  ought  not  to  be  exposed  to  the  drying 
influences  of  the  air  longer  than  necessary.  It  is  best  in  all 
cases  to  lay  in  the  trees  as  soon  as  received,  not  bringing  them 
out  from  the  soil  until  ready  for  planting.  Long  branches  may  have 
their  tips  removed,  so  as  to  make  the  trees  well  balanced,  other¬ 
wise  it  is  not  desirable  to  prune  severely  at  present.  Crowded 
shoots  or  sprays  emanating  from  old  wood  may  be  removed.  Care¬ 
fully  pare  smooth  all  cuts  made.  Wounds  in  the  bark  are  often 
the  first  cause  of  gum  or  canker. 
PLANTING. — A  little  fine  and  sifted  soil,  consisting  largely 
of  loam  and  wood  ashes,  ought  to  be  in  readiness  for  spreading 
among  the  roots.  Arrange  the  trees  so  that  the  soil  mark  on  the 
stem  will  not  be  sunk  lower  than  previously.  The  roots  should 
be  spread  out  in  layers  to  their  full  extent.  Cover  each  layer,  as 
arranged,  with  the  fine  soil,  sprinkling  it  over  the  fibres  from  the 
stem  outwards.  The  upper  layer  of  roots  ought  not  to  be 
covered  more  than  3in.  Make  the  soil  firm  about  the  roots,  and 
insert  a  stake  at  once  about  4ft  or  5ft  long  to  standard  trees,  as 
it  is  important  they  should  not  be  moved  about  in  rough  winds 
immediately  after  planting,  as  it  will  disturb  the  whole  root 
system. 
MULCHING  STRAWBERRIES.— The  oldest  beds  of  Straw¬ 
berries  are  materially  benefited  by  liberally  mulching  the  soil 
between  the  rows  with  some  rich,  half-decayed  manure.  Previous 
to  laying  it  down,  however,  clear  the  ground  of  strong  rooting 
weeds,  discoloured  foliage,  and  runners  which  may  have  started 
since  the  plants  were  denuded  of  them  earlier  in  the  autumn. 
Beds  of  young  plants  will  not  require  mulching,  the  ground  being 
rich  enough  to  carry  them  on  until  they  commence  fruiting, 
after  which  assistance  will  be  acceptable. 
PLANTING  STONE  FRUIT  TREES  ON  WALLS.— If 
Apricots,  Peaches,  Nectarines,  Cherries,  and  Plums  are  planted 
on  walls  in  tme  autumn,  the  trees  stand  a  better  chance  of 
starting  away  freely  in  spring.  In  preparing  the  borders  for 
their  reception  no  manure  should  be  mixed  in,  but  the  soil  may 
be  worked  to  a  good  depth,  and  some  lime  rubbish  of  a  pulverised 
character,  together  with  a  quantity  of  wood  ashes  and  burnt 
refuse  incorporated.  Soil  it  is  really  necessary  to  enrich  should 
receive  a  dressing  of  calcareous  loam,  as  being  more  suitable  for 
the  requirements  of  stone  fruit  trees.  Fan-trained  trees  are  the 
best  for  walls,  this  form  of  tree  being  easily  regulated  and  kept 
well  furnished  with  bearing  wood.  Bestow  the  usual  care  in 
planting,  but  only  loosely  secure  the  trees  to  the  wall  at  present, 
as  this  will  allow  of  the  trees  and  soil  to  settle  in  position, 
together. — Lymington,  Hants. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
PEACHES  AND  NECTARINES  —  EARLIEST  FORCED 
TREES  IN  POTS. — For  securing  very  early  fruit  the  trees  are 
unquestionably  best  grown  in  pots,  the  standard  form  being 
most  suitable,  and  the  stems  varying  in  height,  so  that  they  will 
accord  with  the  incline  of  the  structure,  and  thus  have  their 
heads  well  up  to  the  light.  The  very  early  varieties  do  well 
under  this  method  of  culture,  as  from  the  pinching  they  have 
blossom  buds  on  the  younger  wood,  and  these  are  not  liable  to 
drop  as  are  those  on  the  first  made  wood  of  the  previous  year 
through  over-development. 
Such  varieties  as  Alexander  or  Waterloo,  Early  Beatrice, 
Early  Louise,  Early  Leopold,  Hale’s  Early,  Early  Alfred,  Dr. 
Hogg,  Condor,  Early  Grosse  Mignonne,  and  Stirling  Castle 
Peaches,  with  Cardinal,  Rivers’  Early,  Lord  Napier,  Goldoni,  and 
Stanwick  Elruge  Nectarines,  answer  for  early  forcing,  and  give 
a  good  succession  of  fruit.  A  three-quarter  span-roof  house, 
facing  south,  provided  with  top  and  front  ventilation,  and  four 
rows  of  4in  hot  water  pipes,  two  along  the  front,  and  two  next 
the  path  on  the  front  side  of  the  house,  cannot  be  bettered  for 
very  early  forcing.  The  back  wall  will  thus  be  left  free,  but  it 
can  be  utilised  to  advantage  by  growing  Tomatoes  against  it,  and 
when  the  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees  are  withdrawn,  as  they  may 
be  after  the  weather  becomes  settled  in  June,  the  front  part  of 
the  house  can  be  occupied  with  Tomato  plants  in  pots,  grown 
specially  for  the  purpose. 
SUCCESSION  HOUSES. — The  trees  casting  their  foliage 
must  not  be  hurried  by  removing  the  leaves  forcibly,  but  admit 
air  freely  at  night,  keeping  the  house  rather  close  in  the  early 
part  of  the  day,  and  by  maintaining  a  dry  atmosphere  seek 
gradual  maturation,  when  the  foliage  will  part  freely  from  the 
trees.  Remove  the  surface  soil  down  to  the  roots,  and  supply 
fresh  loam  rather  stiff,  containing  a  judicious  amount  of  some 
approved  fertiliser.  Give  a  thorough  supply  of  water  to  inside 
boi’der  of  houses  with  fixed  roofs ;  but  it  is  better  to  remove  the 
roof-lights,  and  allow  the  border  to  become  thoroughly  soaked  by 
the  autumn  rains.  Any, lifting  and  root-pruning  of  trees  not  in  a 
satisfactory  state  should  be  attended  to  whilst  the  leaves  are 
upon  the  trees,  not,  however,  until  the  wood  becomes  ripened, 
not  counting  any  immature  laterals,  and  the  foliage  matured. 
Then  act  with  dispatch.  If  fresh  trees  have  to  be  introduced, 
this  should  be  done  when  they  are  safe  for  removal,  namely, 
when  the  leaves  are  nearly  off  the  trees.  The  best  description  of 
trees  for  planting  in  houses  are  those  three  or  more  years  trained 
to  walls  or  to  trellises  under  glass,  and  prepared  by  annual  or 
biennial  lifting.  Such  trees  transplant  safely  with  abundance 
of  fibres.  Carefully  lifted  and  planted,  they  can  be  forced  the 
first  year  with  every  confidence  of  a  crop,  if  not  started  before  the 
new  year,  and  not  brought  on  too  rapidly.  It  is  always  desirable 
to  select  trained  trees  in  bearing  in  preference  to  planting  young 
ones  that  are  not  furnished  with  bearing  wood,  but  if  young 
trees  must  be  planted,  select  such  as  have  a  well-formed  base, 
not  very  strong  in  the  wood,  but  well  matured  and  free  from 
gum. — St.  Albans. 
