November  21,  1901.  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  475 
Fruit  Forcing. 
CUCUMBERS. — The  growing  of  clean  straight  fruit  in  winter 
is  an  easy  matter.  There  is  nothing  like  plenty  of  heated  surface 
for  growing  winter  Cucumbers.  The  heat,  not  being  radiated  at 
a  high  temperature,  is  good  for  vegetation,  and  the  water  in  the 
pipes  not  having  to  be  kept  at  near  boiling  point  the  results  are 
satisfactory  in  produce  and  cost  of  production,  for  hard  firing 
means  a  corresponding  waste  of  fuel.  Very  little  air  will  be 
needed  now,  yet  a  change  of  atmosphere  whenever  a  favourable 
opportunity  offers  will  be  of  great  service  in  hardening  the  tissues, 
always,  however,  excluding  cold  and  sharp  air,  turning  off  the  top 
heat  when  the  sun  is  very  bright  and  likely  to  raise  the  tem¬ 
perature  much  over  85deg  or  90deg.  In  bright  weather,  damp 
the  house  in  the  morning  and  afternoon  ;  but  be  careful  not  to 
wet  the  embryo  fruit,  for  water  hanging  on  it  will  cause  decay. 
Water  will  be  required  at  the  roots  about  twice  a  week,  always 
affording  it  equal  in  temperature  to  that  of  the  bed.  Maintain 
the  night  temperature  at  65deg  (GOdeg  on  cold  mornings,  and 
70deg  in  mild  weather),  TOdeg,  to  75deg  by  day,  and  85deg  to 
90deg  from  sun  heat. 
The  plants  from  the  August  sowing  planted  out  in  September 
have  covered  the  trellis,  and  are  fruiting  plentifully  ;  but  this 
must  be  allowed  moderately  if  the  plants  are  expected  to  afford 
full  supplies  at  a  later  period.  Young  plants,  however,  always 
give  the  best  results,  hence  when  they  become  strong  the  better 
plan  is  to  fruit  them,  and  have  a  succession  to  follow  when  they 
indicate  exhaustion.  Attend  frequently  to  stopping  and  thin¬ 
ning,  also  tying  the  shoots,  avoiding  overcrowding,  as  stout  foliage 
better  endures  the  trying  ordeal  of  wintry  weather.  Canker 
must  be  held  in  check  by  quicklime  rubbed  well  into  the  affected 
parts.  Remove  old  useless  leaves,  as  this  is  good  for  the  plants, 
and  keep  off  attacks  of  red  spider;  but  the  best  safeguard  for 
this  pest  and  white  fly  is  a  little  sulphur  on  the  hot  water  pipes, 
also  for  mildew.  Aphides  and  thrips  succumb  to  fumigation  with 
tobacco  paper  or  vaporisation  with  nicotine  compound,  but 
neither  must  be  excessively  used  or  the  foliage  will  suffer  more  or 
less  injury ;  besides,  either  operation  on  two  or  three  con¬ 
secutive  evenings  in  moderation  makes  sure  of  the  pests. 
STRAWBERRIES  IN  POTS. — A  start  must  be. made  early  in 
December  to  have  fruit  ripe  early  in  March.  La  Grosse  Sucree 
has  been  for  many  years,  and  still  remains  our  standard  early 
forcing  variety,  with  some  plants  of  Vicomtesse  Herieart  de 
Thury  and  Royal  Sovereign  introduced  at  the  same  time.  The 
plants  have  always  done  best  with  us  in  a  three-quarter  span- 
roofed  house  facing  south,  there  being  a  bed  in  front  for 
Cucumbers  or  Melons,  a  path  at  the  back  and  a  narrow  border  at 
the  foot  of  the  wall  for  Tomatoes,  now  going  on  towards  fruiting 
in  pots  in  another  structure,  they  being  brought  into  the  Straw¬ 
berry  house  soon  after  starting.  The  Strawberry  plants  are 
placed  on  an  improvised  stage  tier  fashion,  so  as  to  admit  of 
ready  access  from  the  path  for  watering,  and  loin  to  18in  from 
the  glass.  The  plants  to  be  introduced  should  have  the' drainage 
seen  to,  rectifying  it.  if  defective,  making  sure  that  it  is  free, 
removing  the  loose  surface  soil,  or  loosening  it  if  hard,  and 
supplying  a  top-dressing  of  horse  droppings  rubbed  through  a 
Jin  sieve,  adding  a  good  handful  of  some  approved  fertiliser  to 
each  peck,  then  watering  it  with  a  rose  watering  pot,  so  as  to 
bring  it  into  a  moist  state  and  consolidate  the  material,  other¬ 
wise  it  washes  off  in  watering  the  plants.  Plants  so  treated 
push  surface  roots  freely,  and  the  manurial  elements  are  taken 
up  by  them.  Wash  the  pots,  remove  the  decaying  leaves  only, 
and  place  in  position,  taking  care  to  keep  the  soil  moist,  for  dry 
soil  causes  the  loss  of  roots.— St.  Albans. 
The  Kitchen  Garden. 
EARLY  BROCCOLI. — The  early  autumn  Broccoli  now  com¬ 
mencing  to  turn  in  should  not  be  left  too  long  on  the  ground. 
The  heads  are  too  valuable  to  be  allowed  to  spoil  by  becoming 
saturated  with  wet  or  softened  and  discoloured  by  frost.  As  soon 
as  the  heads  commence  to  swell  to  a  fair  size  lift  the  plants  by 
the  roots  with  some  soil  attached,  and  place  them  closely  together 
in  a  shed  or  deep  frame,  surrounding  the  roots  with  moist  soil. 
The  worst  of  the  lower  leaves  may  be  removed.  If  carefully 
treated  in  this  manner  the  heads  will  continue  to  expand  after 
being  taken  up.  When  the  heads  are  cut,  of  course  destroy  the 
stumps  and  leaves,  and  clear  decaying  matter  from  the  others. 
ENDIVE  AND  LETTUCE.— Fully  grown  plants  of  both 
Endive  and  Lettuce  should  be  lifted  and  placed  in  a  cold  frame 
before  severe  frosts  occur.  A  frame  that  can  be  freely  ventilated! 
is  the  best  place  for  them,  as  they  are  liable  to  suffer  from  damp- 
if  this  is  not  frequently  attended  to.  Clear  off  all  yellow  and 
decaying  leaves  as  soon  as  they  appear.  Blanch  the  Endive  by 
tying  the  tips  of  leaves  together. 
GLOBE  ARTICHOKES. — The  dead,  decaying,  and  useless, 
leaves  from  round  the  plants  ought  to  be  removed.  After  this, 
manure,  consisting  of  a  mixture  of  long  and  short  material,  may 
be  heaped  round,  this  serving  for  the  purpose  of  enriching  the 
roots  and  affording  protection  to  the  crowns  during  the  winter. 
POTATOES  FOR  FRAMES. — Seed  Potatoes  intended  to  be 
used  for  planting  in  frames  early  in  the  year  should  now  be 
brought  from  the  store,  examined,  and  all  the  best  tubers  placed 
eye  end  upwards  in  shallow  boxes,  standing  them  in  a  cool 
structure  in  subdued  light,  where  the  sprouts  will  harden,  grow 
stout,  and  of  a  dark  purple  colour.  When  the  sprouts  are  about 
half  an  inch  long  the  tubers  are  ready  for  planting. 
POTATOES  IN  STORE. — It  is  very  desirable  that  Potatoes 
in  heaps  in  sheds  or  cellars  should  be  overhauled  in  order  to  pick 
out  decaying  or  diseased  tubers.  Attention  given  to  them  will 
be  of  the  utmost  benefit,  for  once  fairly  clean  and  sound  they 
keep  in  good  condition  so  much  longer. 
CABBAGE. — The  advanced  rows  of  plants  may  have  earth, 
drawn  to  them,  while  those  smaller  in  size  can  be  hoed  between,, 
alike  to  destroy  seedling  weeds  and  to  break  up  the  surface  for 
the  admittance  of  air  and  warmth.  If  the  stock  is  not  large- 
enough,  more  plants  may  be  placed  out.  A  row  or  two,  according, 
to  the  demand  for  Red  Cabbage;  may  be  planted  of  these.  If 
plants  are  not  available  a  sowing  must  be  made  in  February. 
SEAKALE. — Prepare  the  strong  roots  of  Seakale  for  forcings 
After  lifting,  the  slender  side  roots  are  cut  away,  only  the  stout, 
thick  main  roots  with  prominent  crowns  being  utilised  for  forcing. 
This  preparation  enables  them  to  be  placed  thickly  together, 
working  a  little  soil  between  them,  in  boxes  or  pots,  or  on  the 
floor  of  a  forcing  house.  An  early  batch  may  be  forced  by  the 
aid  of  leaves  and  manure,  packing  the  material  round  and  over 
the  receptacles  containing  the  roots.  Seakale  must  be  forced 
in  absolute  darkness.  Cover  the  boxes  or  pots  with  others  of  like- 
size,  so  that,  the  produce  when  ready  may  be  conveniently 
gathered. 
Preserve  all  the  superfluous  roots  as  thick  as  the  little  finger,, 
cutting  them  into  lengths  of  Gin,  and  preserve  in  sand  for  forming 
fresh  plantations  in  spring.  Cut  the  upper  ends  transversely T 
and  the  lower  ends  slantingly. 
RHUBARB. — Placing  Rhubarb  into  a  forcing  structure  need 
not  be  undertaken  until  next  month,  but  the  clumps  may  be 
lifted  out-  of  'the  ground  and  left  fully  exposed,  so  that  the- 
weather  can  act  directly  upon  them,  and  cause  a  complete  rest.. 
A  good  stiff  frost  will  generally  ensure  this.  The  roots  start  away 
better  when  placed  in  heat. 
PLANTING  RHUBARB. — This  is  a  good  season  to  form  a 
fresh  plantation  if  roots  are  available  to  be  divided  up  for  the 
purpose.  A  large  root  may  be  divided  at  least  into  four  divisions 
each  with  several  crowns.  Plant  3ft  apart  in  very  richly  prepared 
ground  that  has  been  deeply  dug  or  trenched. — Lymington,. 
Hants. 
Trade  Catalogues  Received. 
Hogg  &  Robertson,  nurserymen,  seedsmen,  and  bulb  growers,  Dublin. 
— Forest  Trees,  Conifers,  Fruit  Trees,  Shrubs,  Boses,  etc. 
J.  Backnouse  &  Son,  Ltd.,  The  Nurseries,  York. — 1,  Select  List  of 
Microscopic  Fungi ;  2,  Botanical  Material. 
- <.#.*• - 
PUBLICATIONS  RECEIVED.—1 Garten  flora':”  November.  *  * 
“  American  Agriculturist.”  *  *  •  “  Essex  Field  Experiments,  1896- 
1901.”  Part  1 :  On  Permanent  Pastures.  *  *  “  Prospectus  of  the 
Winter  School  of  Agriculture,  Chelmsford.  Session  1901-2.” 
Course  I.:  November  25  —  December  21,  1901.  Course  II.:. 
December  30,  1901,  to  February  1,  1902.  *  *  “  Select  List  of 
Microscopic  Fungi  ”  from  Messrs.  J.  Backhouse  and  Sons,  Ltd., 
York  ;  also  “  Catalogue  of  Botanical  Material.”  *  *  “  The 
Canadian  Horticulturist,”  November,  1901.  Special  features :  The 
Jessica  Grape;  Wilder  Pear;  Notes  on  Summer  Pears;  The  Apple 
Market.  *  *  “  The  Best  Hardy  Perennials  for  Cut  Flowers.” 
Liverpool :  Blake  and  Mackenzie,  School  Lane.  This  book  we  hope 
soon  to  review.  “  Lilies  for  English  Gardens,”  by  G.  Jekyll,  8s.  6d., 
nett:  Geo.  Newnes,  Ltd.  This  we  will  also  review.  *  *  Revue 
de  l’Hortieulture  Beige  et  etrangfere,”  November  1,  1901.  Coloured 
plates  of  Maranta  Lujai'ana  and  Begonia  Double  erecta  crista ta.  *  * 
u  Le  Jardin.”  *  *  "  Meehan’s  Monthly  :  ”  coloured  plate  of  Prinos. 
vertieillatue.  *  *  “  American  Gardening.” 
