532 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
.December  12,  1901. 
manner.  In  some  districts  it  is  advisable  to  plant  the  trees  rather 
closely,  and  when  they  have  attained  to  a  height  of  10ft  to  15ft, 
cut  every  alternate  one  over  at  the  ground  level.  This  results 
in  a  number  of  shoots  from  each  in  the  following  spring,  and 
after  these  have  grown  for  two  or  three  years  the  other  trees 
may  also  be  cut  over  at  the  ground.  In  that  way  a  first-class 
windbreak  may  be  secured  and  maintained. 
English  Maple  (Acer  campestris). — This  does  not  like  wet,  but 
well-drained  land,  and  on  exposed  seaside  grounds  holds  its  own 
as  a  densely  branched  tree,  affording  considerable  shelter  in  both 
summer  and  winter,  and  as  a  fringe-fence  or  hedge  is  excellent  for 
maritime  woods. 
Turkey  Oak  (Quercus  cerris). — In  poor  or  well  drained  soils, 
and  not  in  the  first  brunt  of  the  sea  storm,  this  is  a  valuable  tree 
for  shelter,  as  its  leafage  breaks  the  wind,  and  the  sturdy  twigs 
and  ample  limbs  do  good  work  in  winter  as  wind  sifting. 
Common  Beech  (Fagus  sylvatica). — The  calcareous  and  sandy 
formations  suit  this  tree,  but  it  rather  yields  to  than  stands 
out  boldly  to  the  sea  breeze,  nevertheless  is  a  great  wind  breaker 
from  its  many  twigs,  and  does  fairly  well  by  the  sea,  but  is  better 
as  a  second  than  a  front  rank  tree. 
Ash  (Fraxinus  excelsior). — This  very  graceful  tree  proves  well 
adapted  for  planting  in  poor  rocky  soils  exposed  to  the  ocean’s 
blast,  yet  has  not  the  shelter  of  the  others  preceding.  It  is,  how¬ 
ever,  worth  planting  for  its  gracefulness,  and  for  thriving  in  poor 
soils. 
Birch  (Betula  alba). — The  “queen  of  the  woods”  braves  the 
seastorms,  and  has  a  very  graceful  appearance,  and  is  serviceable 
in  poor,  rocky  soils. 
Small-growing  Deciduous  Trees. 
Common  Elder  (Sambucus  nigra). — Where  will  this  not  grow? 
What  succeeds  better  in  poor  sandy  soil?  Not  any  stands  bolder 
to  the  angry  blast  or  heeds  less  the  pelting  of  saline  particles. 
Whether  as  a  single  specimen,  in  which  it  spreads  about  widely, 
or  as  a  breakwind  fence  or  hedge,  it  is  amongst  the  best  for  sea¬ 
side  planting. 
Service  Tree  (Pyrus  domestica),  Beam  Tree  (P.  Aria),  and 
Siberian  Crab  (P.  prunifolia)  are  excellent  for  planting  in  posi¬ 
tions  exposed  to  saline  winds  and  storms. 
Mountain  Ash  (Pyrus  Aucuparia). — This,  the  Rowan  tree, 
grows  luxuriantly  on  exposed  seaside  land,  and  succeeds  even 
down  to  high-water  mark,  notwithstanding  that  the  soil  be  of  the 
poorest  description.  It  is  not  only  pretty  in  foliage,  flower,  and 
fruit,  but  very  useful  for  planting  as  shelter  along  the  roughest 
parts  of  the  coast. 
Wild  Pear  (Pyrus  communis). — Mention  has  been  already 
made  of  this  tree  as  a  hedge  plant,  it  forming  a  branching 
specimen,  lovely  in  blossom  and  not  unattractive  in  fruit,  and  is 
a  very  good  plant  for  fences  near  the  sea. 
Cherry  or  Myrobalan  Plum  (Prunus  cerasifera). — This  tree 
not  only  grows  well  and  bears  its  Cherry-like  fruit  as  a  specimen, 
but  it  also  makes  a  good  hedgerow  plant ;  though  not  bearing  as 
such,  yet  a  fence  is  of  consequence  in  seaside  resorts,  and  all  the 
better  if  not  tempting  to  juveniles. 
Common  Laburnum  or  Golden  Chain  (Laburnum  vulgare)  and 
Scotch  Laburnum  (L.  alpinum)  do  exceedingly  well,  and  it  goes 
without  saying  are  very  beautiful  in  the  early  summer. 
Hawthorn  (Crataegus  species  and  varieties).— The  white, 
pink,  and  red,  both  single  and  double  blossomed  forms  are 
splendid,  and  do  well  near  by  the  sea,  even  the  “  haws  ”  render 
the  densely  branched  spreading  heads  attractive  in  the  winter 
season,  and  afford  food  for  the  thrush  family  of  birds  and  some 
others  equally  pinched  in  severe  weather. 
Wild  Apple  or  Crab  (Pyrus  Malus).— This  vies  with  the 
Siberian  in  its  efforts  of  doing  well  on  the  sea  coast,  the  so-called 
ornamental  Crabs  being  even  more  effective  in  flower  and  in 
fruit,  though  some  consider  the  tint  of  the  British  Apple  the 
“  pink  of  perfection.”  It  prefers  well  drained  soil  and  rocky 
spots  to  damp  places. — G.  Abbey. 
(To  be  contibued.) 
- - 
Irish  Notes. 
December  bas  come,  though  garbed  in  an  unorthodox  fashion. 
The  frost  and  all  its  entourage  is  absent ;  the  weather  at  present 
is  pleasant,  and  there  is  an  absence  of  all  the  unwelcome  climatic 
factors.  The  genial  conditions  helped  our  roseries,  and  until 
lately  I  could  easily  pull  some  very  fine  buds,  especially  of  La 
France,  so  that  it  is  hard  to  get  them  to  rest.  Ambling  through 
the  herbaceous  borders,  dowered  with  memories  of  floral  enchant¬ 
ment,  the  leafless  stalks  vivify  one’s  thoughts.  Yet,  flowering 
in  one  corner  we  have  Schizostylis  coccinea,  that  winter  flowering 
gem  from  Kaffraria  commonly  called  “  the  Winter  Gladioli.” 
Christmas  or  Lenten  Roses  are  just  bursting  into  bloom.  The 
large-flowered  type,  Helleborus  argutifolius,  though  commonly 
termed  angustifolius,  is  being  cultivated,  though  much  later  when 
in  flower.  To  have  Hellebores  in  variety  at  this  period  is  a 
decided  acquisition,  the  blooms  being  a  great  boon  for  cut  flowers, 
and  last  a  fairly  long  time. 
A  recent  visit  to  Trinity  College  found  the  Ipomseas  in  health, 
especially  the  greenhouse  twiners,  notably  Horsfalliee  and  Leari, 
which  are  about  the  best.  The  blooms  are  borne  in  abundance, 
and  should  prove  welcome  in  our  conservatories,  though  they  have 
not  yet  received  the  recognition  from  our  cultivators  on  this  side 
of  the  Channel.  The  uncommon  Laportea  moroides  was  fruiting. 
It  is  the  well-known  Queensland  tree  whose  vinous  purple  fruit 
has  merited  the  appellation  of  poisonous,  and  is  a  member  of  the 
Urticacese. 
The  Royal  Horticultural  Society  of  Ireland  are  holding  their 
annual  meeting  next  week ;  it  should  mark  a  turning  point  in 
the  affairs  of  the  society.  The  drifting  into  insolvency  is  to  be 
regretted,  but  the  executive  are  not  wholly  blameless,  and  the 
year’s  working  should  show  a.  something  better,  and  induce  the 
committee  to  inaugurate  a  scheme  for  the  furtherance  of  horti¬ 
culture.  The  advent  of  Messrs.  Dickson,  the  eminent  rosarians, 
in  their  branch  depot  is  a  welcome  feature. — A.  O’N. 
Early  Tomatoes. 
Those  who  can  command  a  temperature  of  65deg,  a  light 
sunny  structure,  and  some  bottom  heat,  may  sow  seed  now 
thinly  in  pots  of  light  and  sandy  soil.  The  pots  should  be 
freely  drained,  and  filled  with  a  compost  composed  chiefly 
of  light  loam,  leaf  soil,  and  sand,  equal  parts  of  each. 
Porosity  of  the  soil  is  important  for  the  seed  pots,  as  water 
supplied  must  drain  quickly  away.  In  addition  to  the 
drainage  crocks,  cover  the  latter  with  some  of  the  rougher 
parts  of  the  compost,  and  do  not  fill  the  pots  level  with  the 
rim  nor  press  the  material  too  firmly  at  this  season  of  the 
year.  The  soil  must  be  thoroughly  moist  and  warm,  and  if 
so,  plunging  the  pot  in  cocoa-nut  fibre  over  hot  water  pipes 
in  the  temperature  previously  named,  water  will  not  be 
needed  at  first. 
Scatter  the  seeds  an  inch  apart  round  the  edge  of  the 
pot,  and  just  cover  with  sandy  soil,  which  press  smoothly. 
It  will  be  of  great  assistance  in  retaining  the  soil  uniformly 
moist  if  the  surface  is  covered  with  a  layer  of  moss  until  the 
seed  germinates,  but  not  a  moment  longer.  If  allowed  to 
remain,  the  seedlings  will  be  weakened,  which  is  almost 
fatal  to  success  at  this  season.  Another  plan  is  to  cover 
the  pot  with  glass,  keeping  it  dark  until  the  seed  pushes 
its  first  growth.  A  position  for  the  pot  near  the  glass  in  a 
heated  house  is  absolutely  necessary  from  the  very  first  after 
the  seed  has  germinated.  The  growth  must  be  encouraged 
to  advance  sturdily  if  slowly.  The  plants  will  always  be 
the  better  for  it  afterwards.  Give  as  little  water  as  possible, 
and  utilise  every  ray  of  sunshine. 
When  the  seedlings  have  made  a  nice  lot  of  fibrous  roots 
they  will  be  ready  to  pot  singly  in  2jin  pots,  sinking  the 
stems  down  to  the  seed  leaves.  Drain  these  pots  with  one 
crock  and  a  little  turfy  material,  still  using  the  compost 
sandy  and  light,  but  pressing  it  a  little  closer  together 
round  the  roots  and  buried  stems.  A  position  on  a  warm 
shelf  and  in  abundant  light  must  be  afforded.  Water  care¬ 
fully.  If  they  have  been  intelligently  managed  on  these 
lines  up  to  this  stage,  the  after  management  will  be  com¬ 
paratively  easy.  The  plants  may  require  one  more  shift 
into  a  size  larger  pot,  growing  on  near  the  glass  until  they 
are  filled  with  roots,  when  it  must  be  decided  whether  they 
are  to  be  fruited  in  pots  or  in  a  border. 
For  the  earliest  crops  7in  or  8in  pots  are  perhaps  the 
best,  because  the  plants  are  then  portable,  and  can  be 
elevated  to  the  light,  a  matter  of  extreme  importance 
during  the  limited  daylight  of  the  early  part  of  the  year. 
The  compost  may  be  of  a  stronger  character,  and  be  Dressed 
more  firmly  into  the  pots.  Grow'  to  a  single  stem,  training 
to  wires  just  under  the  roof,  and  rub  out  all  side  shoots  as 
they  form.  The  flower  trusses  which  appear  on  the  main 
stem  may,  when  the  flowers  are  fully  open,  be  smartly 
shaken  at  mid-day  to  disperse  the  pollen,  or  pollen  from 
the  ripest  or  fully  opened  blooms  can  be  collected  on  a 
camel’s-hair  brush  and  conveyed  to  the  stigmas  ready  to 
receive  it.  Early  in  the  season  the  latter  method  is  the 
most  necessary.  .  , 
If  the  pots  are  not  quite  filled  with  sou  at  the  time  ot 
potting,  a  light  top-dressing  or  two  of  rich  soil  will  be  of 
advantage  in  promoting  the  welfare  of  the  crop,  and  as  the 
soil  becomes  well  occupied  with  roots  weak  supplies  ot 
liquid  manure  are  specially  beneficial, — E.  D.  S, 
