December  19,  1901. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER 
557 
Chrysanthemums  for  Christmas. 
Iii  these  days  of  huge  blooms  and  exhibitions  I  fear  many 
gardeners  lose  sight  altogether  of  the  late  varieties  for  decorative 
purposes  until  the  festive  season  arrives,  and  then  they  suddenly 
find  that  there  is  little  in  the  conservatory  or  for  the  decoration 
of  rooms  except  plants  of  a  smaller  type,  such  as  Ericas,  Epacrises, 
Primulas,  and  so  on.  The  glories  of  November  have  departed, 
and  left  an  awkward  gap  that  they  find  it  difficult  to  fill  at  a 
season  when  so  much  is  required,  and  many,  no.  doubt,  mentally 
resolve  to  have  matters  arranged  a  little  better  next  year;  but, 
alas  !  their  resolutions  rarely  advance  to  tangible  form.  They 
cannot  forget  the  huge  blooms  seen  at  the  last  exhibitions,  nor 
the  new  varieties,  which,  by  the  way,  are  all  large  “  monstrous 
beauties,”  warranted  to  flower  the  second  week  in  November,  if 
the  pinching  and  bnd-securing  so  accurately  described  in  our 
catalogues  be  carried  out,  that  the  Christmas  decorative  varieties 
are  all  too  readily  forgotten,  and  I  may  say  in  passing  that  the 
specialists’  catalogues  do  not  make  a  strong  point  of  these 
varieties,  except  to  explain  that  by  doing  this,  that,  and  the 
other  you  can  obtain  large  blooms  for  show  purposes. 
Many  and  many  a  conservatory  and  greenhouse  at  the  present 
time  may  contain  a  few  straggling  plants  of  a  nondescript 
character,  those,  for  instance,  that  refused  for  some  reason  or 
other  to  “  come  to  time,”  but  as  to  a  display,  that  is  beside  the 
question.  Noiv,  where  must  we  turn  for  information  as  to  the 
best  varieties  for  this  purpose  ?  Why  to  the  market  growers,  the 
men  who  are  compelled  to  keep  up  a  constant  supply  of  Chrysan¬ 
themums  from  September  to  January — yes,  and  much  later. 
Mind  you,  I  do  not  take  this  as  a  virtue  to  the  market  men — 
Oh,  no  ! — for  with  them  it  becomes  a  matter  of  bread  and  butter ; 
but  I  do  say  they  are  the  class  to  whom  wre  must  look  for  informa¬ 
tion  as  to  the  best  varieties,  for  their  houses  just  now  are  filled 
with  thousands  of  all  the  best  late-flowering  varieties,  and  it  is 
from  this  source  that  I  now  take  up  this  subject.  In  the  first  case, 
to  make  a  good  decorative  plant  we  must  have  a  large  full  bush — 
dwarf  growing,  if  possible — but  at  the  same  time  there  are  a  few 
good  varieties  that  are  tall  growing,  but  are  so  useful  that  they 
cannot  be  ignored.  Then,  good  foliage  is  also  essential,  but  this 
is  a  mere  matter  of  detail.  Commencing  with  the  white  varieties, 
L.  Canning  is  known  as  one  of  the  best,  dwarf  in  habit,  and, 
if  well  grown,  really  good,  but  one  often  sees  it  inferior  or  poor. 
I  have  heard  it  stated  that  this  variety  is  showing  signs  of 
degeneracy,  but  I  think  it  is  merely  a  matter  of  culture. 
Mine.  Therese  Panckoucke— a  fine  white  that  has  come  well 
to  the  front  of  late  years,  and  bids  fair  to  stop  there — is  a  capital 
Christmas  variety,  but  rather  tall ;  Mine.  Ad.  Cliatin,  although 
tinged  with  colour  while  opening,  becomes  pure  white  after¬ 
wards.  A  good  dwarf  grower,  Princess  Victoria,  is  a  splendid 
variety,  creamy  white,  changing  to  pure  white  after  it  has 
developed ;  a  good  sort  to  retain  its  foliage.  Of  the  newer 
varieties,  Tuxwood  White  bids  fair  to  become  a  general  favourite. 
1  have  not  grown  it  myself,  but  a  neighbour  has  a  grand  batch  for 
the  market.  Mrs.  J.  C.  Neville,  grown  to  terminal  buds,  I  feel 
convinced  will  also  make  a  valuable  addition  ;  as  will  also  Homme 
d’Helle,  a  Continental  variety  I  am  growing  for  the  first  time. 
This  bids  fair  to  be  a  good  one. 
Taking  the  yellow  varieties  next,  we  come  to  the  popular 
W.  H.  Lincoln,  a  veritable  sheet  anchor,  for  it  can  be  had  in 
flower  from  September  to  the  end  of  December,  having  a  perfect 
habit,  good  constitution,  and  lasting  properties.  It  is  invaluable 
to  everyone  requiring  cut  flowers.  Query :  Whv  does  Lincoln 
refuse  to  sport?  A  white,  bronze,  or  pink  would  be  a  godsend. 
W.  H.  Rieman  is  also  a  good  yellow,  while  Yellow  Princess 
Victoria  furnishes  us  with  a  good  pale  yellow.  The  old  Golden 
Gate  is  in  full  beauty  just  now,  and  deserves  a  place  in  all  late 
flowering  collections.  King  of  Plumes  must  not  be  overlooked, 
for  the  cut  flowers  are  so  light  and  graceful  for  vase  decoration. 
In  pinks  the  selection  grows  beautifully  and  sadly  less.  Fram- 
field  Pink,  if  grown  as  coldly  as  possible,  will  fill  the  gap,  but  it 
soon  loses  colour  and  becomes  washy.  Mine.  A.  Rosseau  is  a 
capital  variety,  and  should  be  in  all  late  collections.  Mrs. 
Barkley,  though  hardly  a  pink,  answers  the  purpose  well,  and  the 
terminal  buds  open  for  the  festive  season.  Belle  des  Gordes,  a 
hirsute  variety,  though  pale  at  this  season,  makes  a  pleasing 
shade  of  pink.  > 
In  the  bronze  section  we  include  Lord  Brooke,  Geo.  Seward, 
though  there  is  little  true  bronze  in  it;  Matthew  Hodgson,  a 
crimson  brown,  grand  for  giving  a  little  warm  tone  to  the  col¬ 
lection  :  Master  H.  Tucker,  a  rich  bronze,  but  rattier  tall;  Julia 
Scaramanga,  a  fine  bronze,  but  a  sky  scraper;  while  Mrs.  E.  W. 
Clarke,  a  deep  purple  is  indispensable,  and  W.  H.  Whitehouse, 
I  believe,  will  make  a  good  variet"  for  this  purpose.  I  have  a 
number  that  will  not  flower  until  January  is  well  advanced.  Dora 
Herxheimer,  will  also  make  a  good  amaranth  variety  for  late 
work.  This  list  might  be  considerably  extended,  but  I  have  men¬ 
tioned  enough  for  a  good  display.  I  am  taking  it  as  an  axiom 
that  all  will  be  grown  to  terminal  buds. — An  Old  Contributor. 
Hints  on  Propagating. 
Growers  of  every  grade  now  begin  to  take  an  active  interest 
in  procuring  and  inserting  cuttings  for  another  season.  The 
energies  of  the  old  plants,  hitherto  confined  to  the  production  of 
the  flowers,  are  now  expended  in  the  process  of  starting  and 
throwing  up  from  the  base  the  sucker-like  growths,  which  every 
grower  likes  to  see,  though  it  is  not  every  variety  which  is  free 
in  this  respect.  Some,  perhaps  constitutionally  weak,  require 
considerable  coaxing  to  induce  a  free  growth  of  suckers,  and  it  is 
found  necessary  to  shake  out  the  stools  and  pot  in  some  fresh 
compost  in  a  smaller  pot,  affording  a  little  heat,  a  moist  atmo¬ 
sphere,  and  a  daily  whiff  with  the  syringe  to  induce  fresh  root 
action  and  consequent  new  growth.  Others,  not  too  vigorous  in 
the  production  of  suckers  from  around  the  stem,  produce  them 
readily  from  the  woody  stems  left  above  the  soil  on  cutting  down 
the  plants. 
The  relative  value  of  these  growths  for  furnishing  cuttings  is 
a  matter  of  importance.  Of  the  two,  the  sucker  growths  are  to 
be  preferred  ;  but,  rather  than  lose  a  variety  altogether,  insert 
stem  cuttings,  and  grow  them  on  until  better  are  procurable. 
The  preference  for  sucker  cuttings  lies  in  the  fact  that  they 
invariably  possess  a  clean  central  growth,  which  will  continue 
and  make  a  good  plant,  while  stem  cuttings  often,  not  always, 
show  a  flower-bud  in  the  centre,  such  cuttings  not  being  supposed 
to  result  in  good  plants.  If  they  must  be  grown  the  flower-buds 
should  be  persistently  rubbed  out.  To  be  brief,  however,  on  this 
point,  I  advise  that  healthy,  short-jointed  sucker  growths  be 
obtained,  if  possible. 
Some  of  these  may  be  secured  with  roots,  but  there  is  no 
apparent  advantage  in  having  such,  except  that  there  is  less 
chance  of  losing  them.  Cuttings  that  have  new  roots  to  form 
always  seem  to  grow  away  better  when  once  established.  Good 
cuttings  readily  strike  root,  if  carefully  managed.  Obtain  them 
about  Jin  long',  and  cut  level  just  below  a  joint  where  the  stem 
is  green  rather  than  white,  removing  a  few  of  the  bottom  leaves. 
The  pots  for  single. cuttings  may  be  the  2^in  size.  Where  several 
cuttings  are  placed  round  the  edge  use  the  3in  or  3Jin  pots — dry, 
clean,  and  moderately  drained.  .The  propagating  compost  may 
be  equal  parts  of  loam  and  leaf  soil  and  sand.  rill  the  pots 
firmly  and  surface  with  sand.  When  inserting  the  cuttings  see 
that  the  base  of  each  touches  the  bottom  of  the  hole  made  for  it. 
Close  the  compost  well  round  to  make  all  firm.  Level,  and  give 
a  gentle  watering. 
The  next  stage  is  placing  the  pots  in  such  position  best  suited 
for  the  cuttings  to  strike  root.  Too  much  heat  will  spoil  them; 
but  they  do  not  resent  a  little,  which  assists  in  the  early  forma¬ 
tion  of  roots  and  maintains  the  cuttings  fresh.  Stand  the  pots 
on  a  moist  base  in  a  small  frame  or  under  handlights,  at  first 
keeping  the  covering  close,  but  wipe  off  the  deposition  of  mois¬ 
ture  on  the  glass  every  morning..  Only  shade  to -prevent  flagging. 
Immediately  roots  form  admit  air  daily,  increasing  the  amount. 
But  little  water  should  be  needed  until  the  rooting  is  active  and 
moisture  from  the  soil  more  quickly  absorbed.  When  the  cuttings 
have  become  well  inured  to  full  exposure  to  the  air  of  the  house 
in  which  the  cutting  frames  are  placed  transfer  the  pots  contain¬ 
ing  them  to  an  airy  shelf. 
Carefully  attend  to  the  requirements  of  the  plants  as  regards 
moisture,  and  in  a  short  time  they  will  be  ready  for  potting  on, 
or  dividing  into  single  specimens.  In  every  case  cuttings  may  not 
be  ready  to  insert;  but  as  the  season  for  propagation  extends 
for  the  next  three  months  there  will  be  time  to  secure  those  from 
even  backward  plants.  For  the  majority  of  Japanese  and 
incurved  varieties  January  is  an  excellent  month  for  propagation. 
February  does  well  for  the  early-flowering  varieties,  and  also  for 
pompons  and  singles. 
Propagation  can  be  effected  more  quickly  in  March,  and  good 
plants  result  if  the  cuttings,  after  rooted,  are  not  allowed  to 
become  pot-bound.  Every  chance  should  be  given  to  the  large- 
flowering  exhibition  varieties  by  propagating  early,  so  as  to  give 
the  plants  a  long  season  of  growth.  It  must,  however,  be  un¬ 
interrupted  by  not  allowing  them  to  become  pot-bound  at  any 
stage. 
Dwarf  and  bushy  specimens  are  secured  by  growing  on  early 
propagated  plants  strongly,  and  stopping  them  several  times  to 
multiply  the  number  of  growths;  also  by  growing  the  plants 
strongly  on  a  single  stem  until  May  or  June,  then  cutting  them 
boldly  back  to  6in,  8in,  or  12in.  The  tops  of  these  may  then  be 
propagated  and  grown  as  single-stemmed  dwarf  plants  bearing  a 
single  bloom. — E.  D.  S. 
