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JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER.  December  19,  1901. 
EXAMINING  ROOTS. — Potatoes  are  all  the  better  for  being 
frequently  looked  over  in  order  to  remove  decaying  and  diseased 
tubers.  It  will  also  be  necessary  to  rub  off  the  sprouts  where 
tliey  are  pushing  on  tubers  intended  for  consumption.  Seed 
tubers  which  may  be  pushing  shoots  ought  to  be  placed  on  end 
m  shallow  boxes,  and  be  elevated  to  the  light,  which  serves  to 
retard  and  strengthen  the  growth.  On  these  tubers  rub  off, 
however,  all  the  shoots  but  two.  Look  to  Onions  also,  separating 
any  bulbs  from  the  bulk  which  show  signs  of  decay.  A  very 
dry ,  but  cool,  jiosition  suits  Onions  best.  Give  extra  protec¬ 
tion  to  Carrots,  Beet  stored  in  sheds,  in  the  event  of  hard 
frost.  Lift  a  supply  of  Parsnips,  Artichokes,  Horseradish,  and 
oafsafy ,  and  lay  under  ashes  in  a  sheltered  position  under  wall 
or  hedge  or  in  a  shed. — Lymington,  Hants. 
All  correspondence  relating  to  editorial  matters  should  be  directed 
to  “  The  Editor,”  12,  Mitre  Court  Chambers,  Fleet  Street, 
London,  E.c.  It  is  requested  that  no  one  will  write  privately 
to  any  of  our  correspondents,  seeking  information  oa  matter? 
discussed  in  this  Journal,  as  doing  so  subjects  them  to  unjustifiable 
trouble  and  expense. 
1.  Can  the  boles  of  Apple  and  Pear  trees  of  twenty  years’ 
growth  or  more  be  earthed  up  2ft  or  3ft  from  above  the  collar, 
in  a  sloping  embankment,  without  causing  injury? — (W.  R.) 
1.  The  boles  of  Apple  and  Pear  trees  of  twenty  years’  growth 
or  more  may  be  earthed  up  2ft  or  3ft  above  the  collar  in  a  sloping 
embankment  without  causing  injury,  in  case  the  soil  used  in  the 
embankment  is  of  a  porous  nature  and  the  extent  of  the  embank¬ 
ment  is  not  greater  than  the  spread  of  the  branches  of  the  trees. 
I  have  repeatedly  done  this  in  the  case  of  rockeries,  and  even 
embankments  where  it  has  been  desirable  to  clothe  the  ground 
beneath  the  trees  with  shade-loving  subjects  and  for  sake  of 
appearance,  reserving  the  trees  for  purposes  of  screening  shel¬ 
tering,  and  even  producing  fruit.  Where,  however,  the  embank¬ 
ment  is  wide,  extending  considerably  outward  beyond 
the  spread  of  the  heads  of  the  trees,  and  the  soil  of 
the  embankment  is  of  a  heavv  nature,  the  burying  of 
the  trunks  up  to  2ft  or  3ft  has  been  attended  with 
injury  to  the  trees,  they  gradually  going  back  and  becoming  dis¬ 
eased,  often  resulting  in  canker  and  complete  collapse.  This  is 
unquestionably  due  not-  so  much  to  earthing  up  the  boles  2ft  or 
3ft  and  the  large  roots  near  the  stem,  as  to  covering  over  the 
feeding  roots  at  the  area  corresponding  to  the  spread  of  the 
branches  deeply,  thus  depriving  the  soil  there  of  the  assimilating 
influences  of  the  atmosphere,  the  roots  being  placed  in  conditions 
practically  corresponding  to  subsoil,  and  ill-health,  as  follows 
deep  planting,  is  the  consequence.  Still,  under  such  circum¬ 
stances,  I  have  known  the  trees  survive  even  in  fair  health  and 
productiveness  for  several  years.  In  some  cases  I  have  known 
the  trees  to  root  from  the  trunk  into  the  soil  in  which  embedded 
especially  from  scars,  and  thus  remain  healthy  indefinitely. 
2  Can  Portugal  Laurels  or  Laurels,  Holly,  or  Ilex,  of  8ft-  in 
height  be  transplanted  with  absolute  safety,  and  must  very  great 
care  be  used  ?  If  not,  what  is  the  height  entailing  least  risk  ? 
— (S.  D.) 
2.  Portugal  Laurels  are  always  difficult  to  transplant,  going 
back  for  a  time  even  when  small  (lift  to  2ft  in  height.  In  the  case 
of  laiger  plants  careful  transplantation  is  necessary  to  prevent 
‘going  back  ”  to  a  serious  extent,  or  even  partial  dying  back  of 
the  younger  growths;  then  plants  up  to  3 -’ft  to  4ft  in  height 
may  be  safely  transplanted,  but  the  lesser  size  lift,  to  2ft  or  2ft 
to  2’ ft  when  recently  transplanted)  are  most  safe.  In  case  of 
plants  8ft  m  height  the  best  plan  is  to  cut  off  the  heads,  shorten¬ 
ing  back  the  stem  and  side  branches  at  least  half,  leaving  little 
beyond  the  bare  stem  and  branches  thus  shortened,  then  lifting 
with  a  goodly  number  of  roots  and  a  fair-sized  ball,  and  carefully 
planting  in  the  spring  during  mild  weather  in  March  or  April 
according  to  season  and  locality.  The  plants  will  break  freely 
from  the  old  wood  and  form  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  years 
very  fine  specimens,  well  furnished  with  branches.  In  cutting 
back  the  lower  side  branches  should  be  left  a  foot  to  18in  in 
length,  and  the  branches  above  them  cut  more  closely  and 
gradually  nearer  the  stem  upwards,  so  as  to  give  the  desired 
pyramidal  or  globular  form  to  the  heads  desired.  The  bushes 
8ft  in  height  would  be  best  cut  back  two-thirds  in  both  stem  and 
branches,  and  this  will  compensate  for  the  loss  of  roots  in  trans¬ 
planting  and  render  the  removal  safe.  Common  Laurels  also 
transplant  badly  when  of  large  size,  those  of  8ft  height  requiring 
to  be  cut  back  about  three-quarters  in  both  stem  and  branches, 
and  then  they  transplant  fairly  well,  breaking  strongly  from  the 
old  wood  and  base.  They,  however,  are  not  equal  to  young 
plants  of  i^ft  to  2ft  recently  transplanted.  Ilex  or  Holly  of  8ft 
height  are  difficult  to  transplant  when  the  trees  have>  been  grown 
from  planting  whilst  quite  small  in  position  without  transplant¬ 
ing,  as  the  roots  are  not  very  fibrous,  and  the  loss  of  young  root¬ 
lets  in  transplanting,  even  when  carefully  performed  commonly 
results  in  casting  of  the  foliage  and  going  back  of  the  growths. 
It  is  different  when  the  trees  have  been  recently  transplanted, 
as  in  the  case  of  nursery  stock,  as  then  the  trees  may  be  lifted 
with  balls,  and  the  check  consequent  on  transplantation  is  not 
material.  If  not  recently  transplanted  the  heads  of  the  trees 
should  be  reduced  at  least  one-half,  better  two-thirds,  and  then 
lifted  with  a  fair  amount  of  roots  and,  if  possible,  a  goodly 
amount  of  soil  or  ball  adhering.  They  will  grow  freely,  recu¬ 
perating  in  the  course  of  a  season  presentably,  and  in 
two  or  three  years  forming  handsome  specimens.  Hollies  are 
safest  transplanted  in  May,  or  if  an  early  season,  at  the  latter 
part  of  April,  preferably  during  moist  mild  growing  weather. 
ADDRESS  (S.  D.). — Mr.  Abbey’s  address  is  4,  Whitbread  Terrace, 
Hatfield  Road,  St.  Albans ;  but  you  will  notice  our  intimation,  of  all 
communications  on  matters  connected  with  the  Journal  of  Horti¬ 
culture  being  addressed  to  the  Editor. 
HEATING  BY  OBSOLETE  BOILER  (W.  R.).-We  consider 
you  were  right  in  your  recommendation,  and  the  engineer  wrong  ;  at 
icast  the  whole  is  a  most  obsolete  system  of'  heating  by  hot  water, 
being  neither  effective  nor  economical. 
BOOK  ON  ROSES  (Hon.  M.  E.).— You  will  find  Wm.  Paul’s 
shilling  book  on  Rose  culture  useful ;  obtainable  at  all  booksellers. 
Or,  “  Roses  ;  how  to  Grow  and  Exhibit  Successfully,”  R.  E.  West,  Firth 
Dene,  Reigate.  Is.  But  perhaps  the  best  book  of  all  for  you  is  “  The 
Book  of  the  Rose,”  by  Foster-Melliar,  from  Macmillan  &  Co.  The 
price  we  do  not  know,  hut  it  is  more  than  2s. 
VALUE  OF  ASPARAGUS  PRODUCE  (G.  F.  O.  T.  B.).— The 
produce  of  an  acre  of  Asparagus  in  full  bearing  is  about  1500  bundles 
of  100  heads  each,  and  may  bring  in  the  markets  an  average  of  Is. 
per  100  heads  for  the  season,  or  about  £75  per  acre.  As  you  have 
manure  at  command  at  relatively  small  cost,  there  is  no  question  of 
its  being  utilised  advantageously  for  Asparagus  culture,  but  whether 
a  3-acre  plot  with  a  eottage  upon  it  would  let  readily  is  matter  for 
your  consideration.  One  thing  is  certain,  that  after  the  Asparagus 
was  worn  out  the  land  would  he  in  good  heart  for  market  gardening 
purposes,  whether  fruit  trees  as  dwarf  bushes,  or  vegetables  were 
taken  in  hand. 
LEAN-TO  HOUSE  UNSATISFACTORY  (F.  W.  R.  M.). — The 
structure  is  not  suitable  for  any  kind  of  plant  with  which  we  are 
acquainted,  not  having  any  ventilation  but  the  openings  to  which  you 
allude  in  front,  this  being  brickwork  4  feet  in  height.  It  would  per¬ 
haps  be  more  to  the  purpose  to  pull  the  house  down  and  have  it 
erected  in  a  proper  manner  than  to  make  provision  for  roof  ventila¬ 
tion.  In  this  case  it  would  be  advisable  to  have  at  least  18  inches  of 
glass  in  front,  which  need  not  necessarily  be  made  to  open,  but 
ventilators  should  he  provided  in  the  2  feet  6  inches  of  brickwork, 
and  not  more  above  the  floor  line  than  1  foot,  they  being  about  that 
depth,  3  feet  long  and  6  feet  clear  between.  With  similar  provision 
for  ventilation  at  the  top  of  the  house,  the  ventilators  being  alternate 
with  those  in  front,  and  not  less  than  18  inches  in  width,  the  house 
would  be  suitable  for  Peaches  and  Nectarines,  or  other  fruit  trees,  or 
it  might  be  utilised  for  Tomatoes  from  May  to  October  inclusive.  It 
is  worth  considering,  however,  whether  you  could  not  provide 
ventilators  at  the  upper  part  of  the  house,  and  thus  render  the  culture 
of  subjects  that  succeed  in  an  unheated  house  feasible. 
ROSES  IN  POTS  (Granville). — Successful  growers  of  Roses  in 
pots  repot  them  every  year,  not  necessarily  in  larger  pots  if  the  plants 
are  already  large  and  the  accommodation  for  growing  them  limited, 
but  that  they  may  make  new  roots,  and  receive  a  greater  amount  of 
good  food  during  the  summer  that  is  so  essential  for  producing  fine 
flowers  in  the  following  spring.  The  best  time  for  potting  Roses  is  in 
the  month  of  June,  directly  after  they  have  finished  blooming,  using  a 
compost  of  two-thirds  of  good  turfy  loam  and  a  third  of  well-decayed 
manure  Tea  Roses  having  the  addition  of  a  little  leaf  soil  and  sand. 
By  repotting  them  at  that  period  the  newr  roots  take  kindly  to  the 
soil,  which  enables  the  plants  to  make  good  growths  early,  that 
become  hard  and  ripe  before  the  summer  is  ended.  After  potting 
they  should  be  plunged  in  an  open  situation,  and  a  thick  ccating  of 
manure  placed  around  and  over  the  surface  of  the  pots,  so  tlqxt  the 
roots  are  kept  cool,  and  the  rains  wash  in  the  properties  of  the 
manure.  Roses  in  pots  are  often  spoiled  through  neglect  during 
the  summer,  which  is  the  season  they  should  receive  the  most 
attention.  You  would  not  reap  much  benefit  by  repotting  now  ;  the 
better  plan  would  be  to  loosen  and  remove  a  portion  of  the  surface 
soil,  and  apply  a  top-dressing  of  rich  compost.  Prune  the  plants 
during  this  month  and  the  next,  tie  the  points  of  the  shoots  down¬ 
wards,  and  allow  them  to  break  very  steadily  and  without  any 
assistance  from  fire  heat.  They  may  possibly  break  back  from  the 
old  wood.  As  they  advance  in  growth  a  slight  sprinkling  of  blood 
manure  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  will  strengthen  them,  using  a 
solution  of  cow  manure  and  soot  as  the  flower  buds  advance. 
