December  26,  1901. 
JOURNAL  Ob'  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
587 
Hardy  Fruit  Garden. 
CLEANSING  FRUIT  TREES.— As  a  general  wash  for  fruit 
trees  in  winter  a  caustic  soda  and  potash  solution  is  one  of  the 
best  of  the  numerous  insecticides  which  are  recommended.  This 
solution  is  made  by  dissolving  ^lb  each  of  caustic  soda  and 
crude  commercial  potash  in  5  gallons  of  hot  water.  The  mixture 
must  be  applied  in  a  mist-like  state  over  every  part  of  the  trees, 
and  this  is  best  effected  by  using  a  suitable  spraying  apparatus, 
which  will  economically  distribute  the  insecticide  over  the  trees 
and  bushes.  As  this  particular  preparation  is  of  a  burning  and 
caustic  character  the  operator  should  wear  a  pair  of  thick  gloves 
to  protect  the  hands  from  injury.  If  well  applied,  so  as  to  reach 
every  part  of  the  trees,  this  insecticide  is  excellent  for  destroy¬ 
ing  all  insect  eggs,  reel  spider,  American  blight,  and  moss  and 
lichen.  It  leaves  the  trees  clean  and  bright.  In  bad  cases  of 
American  biiglit  and  thick  encrustations  of  moss  on  the  trees,  it 
is  advisable  to  give  the  affected  parts  a  preliminary  washing  with 
a  mixture  of  softsoap,  4oz  to  the  gallon  of  water,  to  which  has 
been  added  a  wineglassful  of  petroleum.  A  considerable  quantity 
of  moss  and  lichen  can  be  scraped  off  the  trunk  and  principal 
branches  with  a  piece  of  hoopiron  before  the  washing. 
CHECKING  LUXURIANT  FRUIT  TREES.— The  best  time 
for  root-pruning  for  the  purpose  cf  checking  luxuriant  fruit  trees 
is  early  autumn  ;  but  circumstances  frequently  prevent  the  work 
being  done  at  that  period,  and  therefore  a  later  time  has  to  be 
chosen.  The  operation  may  be  carried  out  any  time  during  the 
winter  when  mild  weather  prevails  and  the  ground  is  not  too 
vret.  From  very  early  autumn  pruning  results  may  be  seen  the 
first  season ;  but  when  carried  out  later  this  is  not  so  apparent 
the  first  summer,  but  will  show  the  result  of  the  check  the 
following  season.  There  will  be  a  less  number  of  strong  shoots 
produced,  and  instead  of  buds  extending  into  wood  buds  they 
should  plump  up  into  fruit  buds  ;  at  least,  they  will,  under  favour¬ 
able  conditions,  show  a  tendency  to  do  this,  though  it  takes  a 
time  to  transform  an  excessively  luxuriant  fruit  tree  to  a  fruitful 
one.  It  is  not  always  advisable  to  effect  the  whole  operation  of 
root-pruning — that  is,  cutting  the  whole  of  the  roots  round  the 
tree  in  one  season,  when  the  operation  must  necessarily  be  a 
severe  one.  It  is  better  to  do  half  one  season  and  half  the  follow¬ 
ing,  the  method  of  root-pruning  is  as  follows  :  Take  out  a  trench 
at  a  moderate  distance  from  the  trunk  according  to  the  size  of 
the  tree  or  bush  to  be  operated  on.  A  distance  of  3ft  to  Aft  is 
usually  ample.  Cut  off  all  the  strong  roots  found  on  the  side  of 
the  trench.  When  reaching  a  sufficient  depth  undermine  the'ball 
and  sever  the  strong  descending  roots  found  there.  These  are 
most  frequently  the  cause  of  excessive  luxuriance.  The  ends 
of  all  roots  thus  treated  should  be  pruned  smoothly.  Fill  in  the 
trench  again  with  good  soil,  making  it  very  firm,  and  any  fibrous 
roots  which  have  been  preserved  should  be  laid  out  in  it.  On 
completion  mulch  with  light  manure. 
TOP-DRESSING  WEAKLY  WALL  TREES.— Wall  trees 
often  languish  from  want  of  additional  support,  either  in  the 
matter  of  soil  or  water.  The  nature  of  the  support  necessary 
may  be  ascertained  by  removing  the  surface  soil  down  to  the 
roots.  If  moisture  is  needed  this  will  be  apparent  by  the  dry 
condition  of  the  soil  below/ and  much  benefit  will  be  derived  from 
thoroughly  saturating  it  with  clear  water",  followed  by  liquid 
manure,  before  affording  a  top-dressing  of  fresh  soil.  If 
adequately  moist  below  a  good  soaking  of  liquid  manure  will 
still  be  of  benefit,  adding  much  fertilising  material  to  the  lower 
roots.  A  good  top-dressing  of  rich  soil,  consisting  mainly  of  loam 
intermixed  with  burnt  refuse,  will  form  excellent  rooting 
material  for  the  young  fibres  near  the  surface.  For  stone  fruit 
trees  some  calcareous  material  in  the  form  of  crushed  mortar  may 
be  added. 
PLANTING  WALL  FRUIT  TREES. — Trained  trees  of 
Apples,  Pears,  Plums,  and  Cherries  may  with  advantage  be 
planted  now.  The  soil  should  be  deeply  dug  and  enriched  if 
necessary,  rather  with  good  loam  and  burnt  refuse  than  manure. 
If  the  whole  of  the  border  is  not  prepared,  the  stations  for  plant¬ 
ing  the  trees  must  be  of  ample  size  to  accommodate  the  roots, 
as  it  will  not  do  to  cramp  them  when  planting.  They  should  be 
spread  out  to  their  full  extent  in  shallow  holes,  covering  them 
not  more  than  a  few  inches.  The  trees  must  not  be  permanently 
fastened  at  this  time,  because  they  will  sink  with  the  soil. 
Lightly  secure  them  now,  and  fasten  permanently  in  spring. 
Apples  and  Pears  may  be  horizontally  trained,  fan-shaped,  and 
diagonal  cordons.  Plums  and  Cherries  are  more  prolific  as  fan¬ 
shaped  trees,  also  Peaches  and  Nectarines.  These  are  readily 
replenished  with  young  wood,  while  old  material  is  easily 
removed.  Thus  a  constant  succession  of  suitable  wood  is  main¬ 
tained.  Gooseberries  and  Currants  grown  on  walls  in  cordon 
shape  may  also  be  planted  now.  Upright  cordons  are  the  best. — 
Lymington,  Hants. 
Fruit  Forcing. 
CUCUMBERS. — These  like,  and  must  have  for  healthy  pro¬ 
gressive  growth,  light,  heat,  and  moisture.  Keep  the  glass 
clean,  both  inside  and  outside.  Add  a  little  fresh  soil  over  the 
roots  as  they  protrude  through  the  sides  of  the  ridges  or  hillocks, 
using  it  sweet  and  warmed  and  moderately  moist.  A  few 
sweetened  horse  droppings  sprinkled  on  the  surface  of  the  bed 
occasionally  will  attract  the  roots,  and  supply  them  with  nourish¬ 
ment,  and  a  small  handful  of  soot  sprinkled  on  each  square  yard 
of  surface  will  add  colour  to  the  foliage  and  fruit,  afford  nutrition, 
and  be  inimical  to  root  pests.  Afford  water  only  when  the  soil  is 
getting  dry,  then  supply  sufficient  to  moisten  the  soil  through  to 
the  drainage. 
Plants  in  beds  of  small  area,  boxes,  and  pots,  should  have' 
liquid  manure,  always  tepid,  and  not  too  strong  nor  too  often. 
Damping  the  paths  and  sides  of  the  bed  and  house  will  be  sufficient 
to  maintain  a  genial  atmosphere,  attending  to  it  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon  of  fine  days.  Remove  surplus  fruits  as  they  appear ; 
also  tendrils  and  male  blossoms  unless  they  are  required  for  im¬ 
pregnating  the  fruit-bearing  flowers.  Stopping  and  thinning 
the  growths  will  not  be  much  needed,  but  it  must  not  be 
neglected,  as  crowding  is  the  precursor  of  evil  consequences.  Tie 
on  the  growths  as  necessary.  Do  not  overcrop  the  plants,  and  be 
careful  not  to  allow  the  fruit  to  remain  longer  on  them  than  to 
attain  a  useable  size  ;  they  keep  fresh  for  several  days  after  being 
cut  if  the  heels  are  inserted  in  a  saucer  of  water  in  a  cool  place, 
but  safe  from  frost. 
VINES — EARLIEST  FORCED. — The  Vines  started  early  m 
November  will  now’  have  their  action  excited  by  the  development 
of  the  foliage,  and  great  care  is  necessary  to  prevent  a  chill. 
The  temperature  about  the  pots  of  the  earliest  forced  Vines 
should  be  kept  steady  at  70deg  to  75deg,  pressing  down  the 
fermenting  materials  and  adding  fresh  as  required.  Disbud  and 
tie  down  before  the  shoots  touch  the  glass,  not  being  in  too  great 
a  hurry  in  staging.  When  two  leaves  are  made  beyond  the 
bunch  the  laterals  of  Vines  in  pots  should  have  the  points 
pinched  off  when  the  leaf  at  the  joint  is  the  size  of  a  halfpenny. 
Those  planted  in  borders  may  be  stopped  three  or  four  joints 
bevond  the  fruit,  and  then  extend  the  growths  so  as  to  secure 
well-developed  foliage  all  over  the  trellis.  Remove  superfluous 
bunches  as  soon  as  choice  can  be  made  of  the1  best,  under  rather 
than  over-cropping  the  Vines. 
Maintain  the  night  temperature  at  60deg  to  65deg,  and  /Odeg 
to  75deg  by  day,  with  an  advance  to  80deg.  85deg,  or  90deg  from 
sun  heat.  When  the  flowers  open  keep  the  heat  at  70deg  to 
75dev  regularlw  and  maintain  a  rather  dry  atmosphere,  and  w’hen 
the  fruit  is  set  return  to  the  temperature  before  named. 
Artificial  fertilisation  should  not  be  neglected,  operating  about 
midday.  Afford  liquid  manure  -when  the  soil  is  moderately  dry 
to  Vines  in  pots,  even  wrhen  in  flowrnr,  or  always  after  they  have 
developed  the  first  leaves.  Maintain  a  moist  genial  atmosphere 
by  damping  the  paths  two  or  three  times  a  day,  and  occasionally 
with  clear  weak  liquid  manure.  Houses  with  fermenting  beds  will 
not  require  any  aerial  ammonia. — St.  Albans. 
Trade  Catalogues  Received. 
Cooper.  Taber  &  Co.,  Ltd.,  90  and  92,  Southwark  Street.  London.  S.E. 
— Wholesale  Seed  Catalogue ,  1902. 
Dickson  &  Robinson.  Manchester. — Seeds. 
Dicksons.  Chester. — Seeds.  Potatoes. 
Henry  Eckford,  seed  grower,  Wem,  Shropshire. — Giant  Sweet  Peas 
and  Other  Seeds. 
Fisher.  Son  &  Sibray,  Ltd..  Royal  Nurseries,  Handsworth,  near 
Sheffield. — Seeds ;  also  Trees  and  Shrubs,  Poses. 
Ed.  Webb  &  Sons.  Royal  Seed  Establishment,  Wordsley,  Stourbridge.— 
Seeds.  [  ( 
Gardeners’  Provident  and  Charitable  Institutions. 
The  Gardeners’  Royal  Benevolent  Institution—  Secretary, 
Mr.  G.  J.  Ingram.  175.  Victoria  Street.  S.W. 
United  Horticultural  Benefit  and  Provident  Society.— 
Secretary ,  Mr.  W.  Collins,  9.  Martindale  Road.  Balham,  London.  S.W. 
Royal  Gardeners’  Orphan  Fund. — Secretary,  Mr.  Brian  Wynne 
8,  Danes  Inn  Strand,  London.  W.C. 
PUBLICATIONS  RECEIVED.  —  Gartenflora,”  December  1: 
contains  coloured  plate  of  Odontoglossum  Wilckeanum,  Rchb.  *  * 
“  Le  Jardin,”  November  20:  coloured  plate  of  Begonia  semperflorens 
hybrids  ;  and  December  5  contains  coloured  plate  of  Begonia  erecta 
cristata  bicolor.  *  *  “  The  Tropical  Agriculturist,  November, 
1901.  *  *  “  The  Precession  of  the  Months :  ”  verses  by  Beatrice 
Crane  ;  designs  by  Wa’ter  Crane. 
