12 
January  5,  1899. 
JOUnXAL  OF  HOETTCULTURE  AXD  COTTAGE  (EARDEAXJR. 
without  abundance  of  sun  it  is  not  possible  for  Peaches  to  succeed  in 
any  compost.  Farmyard  manure  added  to  ordinarily  good  turfy  loam 
will  make  the  compost  too  rich  in  organic  matter,  but  a  poor  loam 
containing  no  turf  might  have  a  fifth  part  added  of  manure,  but  no 
more.  The  best  material  for  Peaches  is  undoubtedly  good  calcareous 
loam.  I  have  seen  them  do  well  in  such  on  a  chalk  subsoil.  Cut  the 
turf  from  a  pasture  deeply  enough,  so  that  there  is  not  only  the  turf, 
but  a  few  inches  of  the  soil  below,  which  is  all  tlie  better  if  it  contains 
small  stones.  Light  soil  can  be  improved  by  the  addition  of  burnt 
or  powdered  clay.  Old  mortar,  brick  rubbish,  or  lime,  may  be  added 
at  the  rate  of  one-fourth  to  any  soil,  also  wood  ashes  and  a  sprinkling 
of  bone  dust.  Give  not  more  than  2  feet  in  depth  of  compost,  making 
it  firm,  and  have  the  subsoil  well  drained. — E.  D.  S. 
The  recipe  given  on  page  494  last  week  is  far  too  rich.  Peach 
trees  planted  in  a  compost  formed  of  such  ingredients  would  pro¬ 
duce  very  gross  shoots,  and  give  the  cultivator  unnecessary  trouble 
in  bringing  them  into  a  fruitful  condition.  When  trees  are  planted 
the  objects  desired  are  the  rapid  production  of  fibrous  roots  and 
moderately  strong  shoots,  which  are  the  visible  evidences  of  correct 
root  action.  When  trees  of  this  description  are  established  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  securing  a  good  crop  of  fruit  annually  under  glass,  and 
no  matter  how  heavy,  by  the  aid  of  top-dressings,  abundance  of 
water,  and  high  feeding  generally,  the  crop  may  he  brought  through 
successfully  ;  but  to  secure  fruits  of  full  size  liberal  thinning  must  of 
course  he  resorted  to.  The  recipe  given  below  is  the  one  I  strongly 
recommend  for  adoption  in  forming  composts  for  Peach  borders  : — 
Good  fibrous  loam  10  loads,  lime  rubble  1  and  wood  ashes  1  load, 
with  1  cwt.  of  bone  meal,  and  2  bushels  of  soot.  When  turfy  loam 
cannot  be  obtained  a  mellow  yellow  clay  answers  splendidly  if,  in 
addition  to  the  other  ingredients  above  given,  half  a  load  of  charcoal 
is  added. — H.  D.  \  _ 
Peach  trees  growing  in  such  a  compost  as  described  by  “  A.  D.” 
could  not  well  be  a  success.  The  soil  would  be  much  too  rich  to  insure 
prolonged  satisfactory  results.  The  necessity  of  the  addition  of  manure 
to  soil  for  Peach  or  Vine  border  making  is  best  judged  on  the  spot. 
Presuming  that  freshly  cut  turf  is  employed  as  the  staple  of  the 
compost,  if  this  be  taken  from  a  position  that  has  grown  but  little 
grass,  then  the  addition  of  a  manurial  stimulant  might  with  advantage 
be  employed. 
Soil  too  rich  in  manure  is  certain  to  cause  trouble  in  the  near 
future  in  the  form  of  gumming  and  the  general  absence  of  a  full  fruit 
crop.  Far  better  to  err  on  the  opposite  side,  because  stimulants  can 
always  be  provided  in  liquid  form  and  by  surface  dressings  to  assist 
growth  when  it  is  seen  by  the  current  shoots  that  the  trees  require 
additional  aid.  Trees  that  never  make  growths  larger  than  the  small 
finger,  and  more  often  of  the  thickness  ot  an  ordinary  cedar  pencil,  are 
not  only  more  easily  managed,  but  give  much  better  results  than 
those  that  make  shoots  thick  enough  for  walking  sticks. 
Turf  of  ordinary  quality  requires  but  little  to  enrich  it  sufficiently. 
The  addition  of  wood  ashes,  old  mortar  rubble,  and  charcoal  is  quite 
sufficient.  The  quantity  of  each  to  be  increased  if  the  turf  is  of  a 
heavy  retentive  character.  The  great  aim  should  be  porosity  of  the 
soil.  This  is  improved  if  broken  bricks  are  freely  added  at  the  time  of 
making  up  the  border.  Finally  I  would  say,  to  ten  loads  of  turfy 
loam,  of  medium  texture,  add  one  load  wood  ashes  and  charcoal  com¬ 
bined,  and  two  loads  of  old  mortar  rubble  and  broken  bricks. 
In  the  process  of  making  the  border  tread  the  soil  down  quite 
firmly.  This  is  an  important  detail ;  but  in  doing  this  it  is  perhaps 
of  even  greater  importance  that  the  soil  be  in  a  semi-dry  state,  certainly 
not  in  a  wet  condition,  as  if  kneaded  together  it  is  not  favourable  to 
free  root  action. — E.  iMoLYNEUX. 
The  question  raised  by  “A.  D.”  (page  494)  on  the  ingredients 
necessary  for  making  a  Peach  border,  should  bring  out  some  interesting 
reading  from  several  among  your  many  readers  who  have  had  such 
work  to  carry  out.  I  am  not  a  little  surprised  that  “  A.  D.”  should 
accept  and  describe  the  recipe  forwarded  to  him  as  an  elaborate  one, 
and  I  should  certainly  think  the  young  gardener  acted  with  much 
wisdom  in  soliciting  the  opinion  of  such  an  able  critic  before  com¬ 
mitting  himself  to  such  an  uncertain  course  of  action.  I  once  had  to 
take  to  a  newly  formed  Peach  border,  so  rich  in  texture  that  for  three 
or  four  years  I  had  to  continue  an  annual  course  of  root-pruning  before 
any  useful  fruit-bearing  wood  was  possible. 
Very  strong  growth  is  undesirable  in  any  fruit  tree,  and  it  is 
certainly  unwise  to  foster  this  by  artificial  means  when,  by  moderation, 
it  is  possible  to  produce  an  early  crop,  and  build  up  a  more  easily 
managed  tree  with  less  trouble  or  cost.  If  good  garden  soil,  which  has 
been  proved  to  suit  truit  trees,  were  substituted  to  almost  or  quite  one- 
half  of  the  ten  loads,  the  horse  droppings  entirely  omitted,  and  the  Vine 
manure  also  reduced  one-half„  a  compost  abundantly  rich  would  be 
provided  for  Peach  growing.  Even  then  the  trees  would  need  rational 
manaerement,  and  have  some  freedom  allowed  them  about  their  heads. 
In  the  production  of  vigorous  and  productive  trees,  pruning  is  best 
done  in  summer,  that  is  to  say,  disbudding  and  pinching  should  be  so 
manipulated  that  very  little  pruning  in  the  winter  is  necessary. 
Branches  thiuly  disposed,  the  points  of  over-strong  shoots  stopped 
before  they  proceed  too  far,  will,  when  attention  to  the  usual  course  of 
watering  and  syringing  is  strictly  carried  out,  result  in  fruitful 
growth,  even  if  the  trees  are  vigorous.  Clear  water  only  should  be 
given  for  a  long  time  to  newly  made  Peach  borders.  If  this  is  given 
in  regular  and  sufficient  quantity,  there  would  be  abundant  fertility 
found  in  the  soil  to  insure  the  best  of  results. — W.  S.,  Wilts. 
[We  have  other  communications  on  this  subject  from  highly 
successful  cultivators  of  Peaches.] 
FREESIAS  AND  THEIR  CULTURE. 
In  dealing  with  Freesias  I  do  not  propose  to  enter  into  their  history, 
for  whatever  that  may  be,  it  is  certain  that  these  easily  grown  plants 
with  their  deliciously  fragrant  ilowers  are  amongst  the  most  highly 
appreciated  of  those  that  have  come  to  us  from  the  Cape.  It  is 
difficult  to  say  to  what  we  can  compare  the  perfume,  but  to  me  it 
seems  to  combine  the  scent  of  the  Marechal  Niel  Kose  with  that  of 
the  Primrose.  The  blooms,  when  cut  and  placed  in  vases  with  their 
own  foliage,  are  very  effective,  and  for  early  spring  use  I  do  not  know 
a  more  useful  plant.  This  is  the  more  emphasised  when  we  consider 
that  the  perfume,  unlike  that  of  some  flowers,  is  never  overpowering, 
but  always  refreshing.  In  my  opinion  it  is  a  most  charming  flower, 
and  abundantly  repays  any  little  extra  care  that  can  be  bestowed  on 
its  cultivation.  4’he  varieties  I  grow  are  Leichtlini  and  refracta  alba, 
of  which  the  former  is  soft  yellow  and  the  latter  white. 
Anyone  wishing  to  grow  Freesias  can  do  so  from  seed,  which 
should  be  sown  in  August  or  September,  and  if  in  the  former  month 
the  young  plants  may  flower  the  following  season.  If  the  seeds  are 
home-saved,  they  must  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  When  once  a  start  is 
made  to  cultivate  Freesias  it  will  be  found  an  easy  matter  to  maintain 
a  good  stock,  for,  unlike  some  of  our  other  bulbs,  it  is  not  necessary  to 
obtain  a  fresh  supply  each  year  if  the  plants  have  had  proper  attention. 
The  most  suitable  soil  is  sandy  loam  and  leaf  mould,  and  the  seed 
should  be  sown  thinly  to  avoid  transplanting.  The  pots  or  pans  may 
be  placed  in  a  sunny  position  in  a  cold  frame,  air  being  admitted  by 
lifting  the  back  of  the  frame  lights  immediately  the  seedlings  push 
through  the  soil.  It  is,  however,  imperative  that  draughts  be  avoided. 
The  plants  must  be  thinned  out  to  eight  or  nine  in  a  5-inch  pot. 
When  the  plants  are  firmly  established  they  should  have  abundance 
of  air  to  keep  them  sturdy  and  strong.  It  will  be  necessary  to  afford 
a  slight  shading  during  the  hottest  ])art  of  the  day,  and  as  the  pots 
become  full  of  roots  watering  must  be  carefully  looked  to,  while  as 
flowering  approaches  a  little  liquid  manure  will  be  found  beneficial. 
As  signs  of  rest  become  apparent  the  water  should  be  gradually  with¬ 
held,  for  herein  lies  the  most  important  point  in  Freesia  growing — that 
is,  to  get  the  bulbs  properly  ripened. 
In  many  cases,  as  soon  as  the  flowers  are  over  or  have  been  cut, 
the  plants  are  cast  into  any  out-of-the-way  corner  to  look  after  them¬ 
selves,  and  it  is  obvious  that  well-ripened  bulbs  will  not  be  had  in  that 
way.  When  the  foliage  is  quite  yellow  the  pots  ought  to  be  placed 
on  a  vinery  shelf,  or  in  some  position  facing  the  south  where  they  can 
enjoy  the  full  benefit  of  the  sun.  There  will  then  be  no  doubt  as  to 
the  eventual  proper  ripeness  of  the  bulbs.  When  this  stage  is  reached 
they  should  be  turned  out  and  sorted  into  three  sizes,  and  then  be 
placed  in  some  cool  dry  place  till  the  time  for  potting  is  again 
with  us. 
August  is  a  good  time  to  pot  the  earliest  bulbs,  following  at 
intervals  of  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  later  and  so  on,  according  to  the 
stock  or  the  number  of  plants  required.  The  largest  bulbs  can  be  put 
six  or  seven  in  a  pot,  and  the  seconds  nine  or  ten  in  a  5-inch  pot, 
while  the  thirds  must  be  disposed  thinly  in  pots  or  pans,  to  be  grown 
in  a  similar  manner  to  the  seedlings  to  produce  good  bulbs  for  flower¬ 
ing  the  following  year.  The  best  soil  for  this  potting  I  find  to  be 
composed  of  two  parts  each  of  loam,  leaf  mould,  with  one  part  of  well- 
decayed  manure  and  some  coarse  sand.  If  the  compost  is  in  proper 
condition  no  water  will  he  required  until  growth  commences,  and  a 
frame  from  which  frost  is  excluded  or  a  shelf  in  a  cool  house  will  be 
the  most  suitable  place  for  them.  Abundance  of  air  in  mild  weather 
with  a  light  position  will  be  found  most  conducive  to  a  dwarf  sturdy 
growth ;  but  when  the  flowers  appear  a  little  more  heat  may  be 
afforded  to  a  portion  of  the  earliest  stock  to  slightly  hasten  expansion, 
the  remainder  being  left  to  form  a  succession.  Great  care  should  be 
taken  in  applying  the  heat  very  gently,  otherwise  the  plants  will  become 
drawn,  and  the  flowers  when  cut  and  placed  in  water  quickly  flag. 
Freesias  are  naturally  weak  plants,  and  should  be  supported  by  neat 
stakes  before  they  are  allowed  to  fall  over.  The  foliage  is  very  delicate, 
and  will  not  tolerate  much  fumigation,  even  with  XL  All.  The  effects 
will  not  be  noticed  at  the  time,  but  a  few  days  after  the  leaves  may  turn 
yellow  at  the  tips.— (ASsirac^  of  paper  read  hy  Mr.  G.  Carpenter  , 
West  Hall,  By  fleet,  hcfore  the  Woking  Horticultural  Society.) 
