16 
January  5,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
wander  in  and  out  looking  for  the  (it-bits,  so  all  will  agree  that  every 
.plant  ought  to  be  so  placed  that  it  can  be  clearly  seen  from  the  point  of 
■observation.  Then,  again,  we  have  the  advantage  of  being  able  to  unite 
forces,  such  as  a  detachment  from  India,  one  from  Australia,  a  third  from 
the  South  Sea  Islands,  and  so  on — gems  from  anywhere  and  everywhere 
to  unite  in  one  grand  international  congress  ;  and  this  is  witliout  doubt 
a  great  advantage  to  an  exhibitor.  It  may  now  be  advisable  to  point  out 
a  few  things  it  is  belter  to  avoid. 
In  the  first  place,  never  try  to  make  a  group  similar  to  what  has  been 
seen  elsewhere.  Nature  does  not  recommend  this,  and  herein  lies  its 
greatest  charm.  No  one  ever  saw  two  pieces  of  natural  scenery  exactly 
alike,  so  strive  for  originality.  Never  attempt  to  make  a  pattern,  as  is 
done  in  carpets.  I  believe  this  is  one  of  man’s  worst  attempts  to  bo 
■artistic.  In  plant  arrangements  you  often  see  Nature  admirably  repre¬ 
sented  in  the  body  of  the  group,  and  the  man,  true  to  his  mechanical 
instinct,  steps  in  to  improve  by  placing  round  its  [neck  a  frill  of  perhaps 
blue  Lobelia,  or  anything  according  to  fancy.  Never  take  too  many 
plants  to  a  show,  as  one  of  the  worst. and  commonest  of  mistakes  is  over¬ 
crowding.  Avoid  a  late  start.  Of  course  there  are  men  who  pride  them¬ 
selves  on  being  able  to  arrange  a  group  quickly,  and  no  doubt  some  do 
take  longer  than  others.  But  a  good  start  often  saves  werr}'  at  the 
■fini^ih,  as  this  state  frequently  leads  to  disaster.  If  there  is  time  to  spare 
it  can  generally  be  used  in  “  touching  up,”  w  hich  otherwise  would  have 
to  be  left  undone. 
It  is  necessary  to  use  many  artificial  aids  in  making  group«,  but  not 
■one  must  ever  be  visible.  Nothing  mars  the  effect  more  than  to  see  bare 
pots,  ugly  stakes,  matting,  drain  pipes,  tables,  fiower  stands,  and  other 
things.  Another  common  error  is  going  to  see  what  fellow  exhibitors  are 
doing,  for  it  distracts  the  mind,  and  prevents  preconceive!  ideas  bearing 
fruit.  Never  let  a  plant  toueh  its  neighbour,  or  peculiar  effects  are  liable 
to  result.  For  example,  I  have  seen  a  beautiful  Croton  made  to  look  as 
if  Lilium  auratum  blooms  were  growing  on  it,  splendid  heads  of 
ll)drangea  paniculata  peeping  from  a  clump  of  Maidenhair,  and  the  tops 
ol  graceful  Palms  rising  from  a  mass  of  red,  white,  and  blue.  Is  this 
right  ?  Certainly  not.— -(FeaeZ  &-/  Mr.  G.  Wilson,  Swanland  Manor,  at 
a  meeting  of  the  Iless'e  Gardeners'  .Association.) 
[Though  we  regard  Mr.  Wilson  as  a  master  iu  the  art  of  grouping 
plants,  we  join  in  the  tribute  which  he  deservedly  pays  to  Mr.  Samuel 
Tliacker.  who  has  produced  the  best  effects  with  limited  means  that  we 
have  seen  at  any  show.] 
CTo  be  continued.') 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Nerines. 
In  answer  to  “Parvo,”  regarding  Nerine  culture,  especially  in  relation 
to  the  temperature  stated  on  page  367  last  vol.,  I  may  say  that  the 
temperature  of  45°  as  a  night  minimum,  and  80°  to  8.5°  as  a  day  maximum 
with  sun  heat,  and  50°,  or  a  little  above  the  night  minimum  by  iho  use  of 
fire  heat  on  dull  days,  has  the  following  a.dvantage — with  a  due  proportion 
of  light,  moisture,  and  food  material  it  wmuld  tend  to  stimulate  their 
growth,  increase  ihe  assimilation  in,jhe  leaves,  and  ultimately  produce 
bulbs  which  w  ould  be  richer  in  matter  fog  the  origin  and  development  of 
li  iral  organ?. 
I  think  we  should  heartily  encourage  this  work  of  the  leaves,  and  one 
way  of  doing  so  is  to  maintain  a  genial  temperature  by  ‘  bottling  up”  tbo 
SIT  heat,  although  in  doing  so  the  temperature- may  rise  to  85°.  i  In 
giving  this  numher  I  have  in  view' a  shallow'  structure  with  the  plants 
near  the  glass.  In  a  largo  house  the  circumstanres  might  bo  altered  to 
suit  the  rase,  especially  if  other  plants  w ero  to  be  considered.  A  Peach 
n  mso  shelf  w'ould  be  a  good  place  for  Nerines  after  flowering,  and  by 
careful  w'atering  and  feeding  a  fair  degree  of  success  would  bo  attained, 
but  I  question  whether  the  flowers  would  he  so  largo,  ilicir  colour  so 
bi illiant,  or  their  texture  so  strong  and  lasting  as  would  bo  attained  by 
giving  the  plants  more  liberal  treatment,  growing  them  in  a  stractiire 
specially  suited  to  afford  them  a  higher  temperature.  Regarding  the 
influence  of  temperature  on  the  longevit}'  of  a  bulb  I  can  give  no  distinct 
■opinion. 
The  species  wliicb  “Parvo’  mentioned  arc  about  the  lirst.  According 
^  the  Kew “  Iland-lLt”  Ncrinc  erispa  is  s\  nonymous  with  N.  undiilata,  and 
N.corusca  with  N.  sirniensis,  the  latter  in  each  case  being  tlie  correct 
name.  Three  of  the  named  garden  hybrids  are  worth  special  notice — 
— N.  elegans  (flexuosa  x  rosoa),  N.  Meadow banki  (sarnie nsis  x  Folher- 
gilli),  and  N.  !Manselli  (flexuosa  x  Fotliergilli).  The  last  is  a  late 
iloomer,  flowering  towards  the  end  of  Novcmlicr,  and  eontinurs  to  flower 
in  December.  It  is  slightly  lighter  in  colour  than  sarniensis. — 
A.  L.  C.  R. 
Statices. 
It  seems  to  be  a  hard  and  fast  rule  with  some  grow'crs  to  rest  all 
plants  alike  through  the  winter,  and  I  am  of  the  opinion  that  this  is 
the  cause  of  many  failures,  especially  with  Statices,  which  do  not 
-appreciate  being  rested  during  the  winter  months.  I  do  not  wish  to 
-infer  that  they  must  be  kept  growing  at  the  same  rate  in  (ho  winter  as 
during  the  summer,  but  simply  that  they  should  just  be  kept  steadily 
moving.  My  observations  teach  me,  too,  that  Statices  like  a  closer 
atmosphere  than  do  many  greenhouse  plants,  but  they  must  have  a  little 
air,  and  be  kept  close  to  the  glass,  though  not  too  much  exposed  lo  the 
bright  sun,  or  they  will  quickly  fall  a  prey  to  rod  spider,  and  iho  leaves 
will  assume  a  sickly,  rusty  appearance. 
Statices  may  be  easily  propagated  from  cuttings  made  of  the  shoots 
in  early  spring,  which  should  be  inserted  singly  in  3-inrh  pots  filled  with 
a  mixture  of  good  loam  and  sand  in  equal  parts.  They  must  be  kept 
under  a  bell-glass  or  in  a  propagating  frame  in  a  temperate  house,  when 
roots  will  soon  be  erailted.  About  the  latter  end  of  June  or  the  beginning 
of  July  the  young  plants  may  be  transferred  to  5  or  6-inch  pots,  using  a 
compost  of  three  parls  of  fibrous  loam  and  ono  part  of  coarse  sand. 
Stand  them  in  a  temperate  house,  and  syringe  every  afiornoon  unless  the 
weather  be  very  dull  and  damp.  During  the  winter  months  they  may  be 
kept  in  a  rather  lower  temperature  say,  45°  to  50°,  on  a  shelf  near  the 
glass  if  possible,  as  they  will  then  form  stiffer  and  sturdier  grow'ths  than 
would  otherwise  be  the  case.  As  abundance  of  water  is  essential  during 
the  growing  period  the  drainage  must  be  efficient,  or  stagnation  at  the 
roots  will  bring  partial  or  total  collapse.  Whin  in  fiower  they  must  not 
be  syringed,  or  the  blooms  will  damp.  When  the  shoots  have  grown 
sufficiently  long  they  should  be  trained  dow'n  towards  the  rim  of  the  pot, 
so  as  to  form  shapely  plants.  It  will  be  found  advisable  not  to  allow  the 
young  shoots  to  flower  too  much  the  first  season,  as  it  interferes  materially 
with  their  growth. 
Thrips  and  red  spider  will  be  found  troublesome,  and  do  serious  mis¬ 
chief  unless  attended  to  with  promptitude.  Great  care  must  be  exercised 
in  using  insecticides,  or  they  will  cause  injury  to  the  leaves,  and  thus 
partially  spoil  the  beauty  of  the  plants. — One  of  the  School. 
HAKDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Cleansing  Fruit  Trees  of  Moss  and  Lichen. — When  fruit  trees  and 
bushes  are  infested  with  moss  and  lichens  they  present  an  unsightly 
appearance,  and  means  ought  to  bo  adopted  which  will  eventually  clear 
the  stems,  branches,  and  shoots  of  these  incrustations.  Apparently  no 
harm  results  from  ihcir  presence,  but  if  allowed  to  remain  it  is  certain  that 
insects  will  lorm  a  lodgment,  to  iho  defrirr.ei.t  of  the  health  and  vigour  of 
the  trees.  If  more  than  ordinarily  thick  incrus'ations  aro  present,  scrape 
off  the  thickest  portions  with  a  piece  of  hoop  iron  or  other  suitable  tool, 
but  avoid  culling  or  wounding  the  bark, 
Tlie  operation  is  best  carried  out  when  the  trees  arc  moist.  This 
effected,  well  brush  or  wash  the  trunk  and  branches  over  with  hot  lime- 
wash,  which  decomposes  the  vegetative  growth  and  destroys  any  inject 
life  present.  Tho  slenderer  shoots  of  trees  and  bushes  may,  if  necessary, 
bo  cleansed  by  distributing  over  them  finely  powdered  lime  in  damp  or 
fi'ggy  weather.  Tiie  lime  dressing  is  excellent  for  Gooseberries  and 
Currants,  as  it  will  not  only  cleanse  them  from  green  growths,  but  of 
scale  or  red  spider,  while  (hat  which  falls  to  the  ground  acts  beneficially, 
destroying  the  larvas  of  catirpillars  and  neutralising  tho  acidity  of  over- 
rich  soils  Brine  applied  on  tho  trunks  and  larger  brarches  with  a 
scrubbing  brush  is  a'so  excellent. 
If  Ibo  glaring  whiteness  of  lime  is  objected  t'',  this  may  be  toned 
d  jwn  by  Iho  addition  of  soot.  Some  prefer  (he  further  addition  of 
sulphur,  about  an  equal  quantity  being  used  willi  the  lime  and  half  soot, 
the  whole  mixid  in  a  soapy  solulion,  and  applied  to  the  convenient  parts. 
Destroying  American  Blight. — Apple  trees  affected  with  American 
blight  are  also  us  iallv  attackcil  wiih  canker,  the  w  oands  in  the  bark  and 
the  excrescences  formed  by  it  jr.avid:ng  safe  refuge  for  the  insects.  The 
cankered  parts  may  with  advantage  b'j  pared  smooth!}',  then  painted  over 
with  a  mixtuie  of  Stockholm  tar  and  softsoap,  or  tho  latter  and  petroleum, 
a  pii-t  to  the  gallon  of  strong  si  ap  sfiution.  Brush  well  into  the  affectecl 
p'-rts.  Gishurst  compound  and  ether  in  ectic'des  may  bo  employed  if 
p  eferred,  but  in  bad  cases  a  p  trolma  emulsion,  formed  either  with 
8  ftsoap  or  cartoVc  soap,  is  the  besfi 
A  General  Cleanser.— Trees  or  bnshei  that  do  not  require  special 
efforts  to  lid  them  of  pests  should  bo  sprayed  w'ith  C  lates’  soda  and 
potash  solution.  This  is  made  by  dissolving  1  lb.  of^auslic  soda  and  1  lb. 
of  crude  commercial  potash  in  10  gallons  of  water.  This  preparation 
ought  only  to  bo  used  when  the  trees  are  dormant.  It  is  excellent  for 
thoroughly  cleansing  tho  bark  of  all  infestations,  whether  insect  pests  or 
mossy  or  lichenous  growths. 
Outdoor  Vines. — /’nmin/;.— IVIild  weather  should  bo  chosen  for  carrying 
out  the  necessary  pruning  required  by  Vines  on  outdoor  walls  or  trellises. 
Aged  branches  with  elongated  and  knotty  spurs  might  with  groat 
advantage  bo  cut  out  and  their  places  taken  by  vigorous  young  canes 
that  aro  well  ripened.  It  requites  seme  forethought  to  have  suitable 
young  canes  to  take  the  place  of  old  rods.  Those  which  may  be  required 
shouid  be  selected  during  the  growing  season,  and  shortened  to  about 
4  feet  at  the  winter  pruning.  As  a  rule  new  canes  intended  to  renovate 
the  Vines  ought  to  bo  originated  as  near  the  base  as  possible,  but  to  fill 
vacancies  or  to  substitute  new  growth  for  old  in  any  part,  w'ell  ripened 
lateral  growths  may  be  laid  in,  pruning  down  to  good  firm  buds. 
The  majority  of  tho  lateral  shoots  on  the  spurs  must  be  shortened  to 
one  or  two  buds,  but  seize  the  opportunity  where  two  or  three  laterals 
issue  from  one  main  spur  to  remove  those  furthest  away  from  tho  main 
stem.  In  this  way  spurs  are  prevented  from  extending  too  far,  there  is 
