January  12,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
35 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Euonymuses  as  Greenhouse  Plants. 
AMONG.ST  hardy  evergreen  shrubs  there  are  few  so  pretty  for  pot 
cultivation  and  greenhouse  decoration  as  Euonymus  japonicus  aureo- 
variegata  and  E.  radicans  albo-marginata.  The  first  named  has  deep 
green  and  beautifully  bright  golden  marked  leaves,  and  is  the  more 
effective.  The  foliage  of  E.  radicans  is  green  in  the  centre,  and  edged 
with  pure  white.  Both  are  easily  increased  from  cuttings,  eight  or  ten 
of  which  may  be  placed  in  a  5-inch  pot,  in  some  peat  and  sand.  They 
will  root  in  a  close  frame  at  nearly  any  period  of  the  year. 
Immediately  the  cuttings  are  rooted  they  should  bo  potted  singly  in 
3-inch  pots,  the  compost  consisting  of  equal  parts  of  loam  and  peat,  with 
an  addition  of  coarse  silver  sand.  As  soon  as  they  begin  to  root  into 
this  there  is  no  danger  of  them  suffering  from  exposure,  for  when  placed 
in  the  greenhouse  they  soon  begin  to  make  progiess  ;  and  Avhen  quite 
small  are  extremely  useful  for  edging  stages.  Plants  in  3-inch  pots  will 
attain  the  height  of  15  inches  and  6  inches  through,  and  when  this  size  is 
reached,  if  desirable  they  can  bo  transferred  to  5  or  6-inch  pots.  The 
same  compost  should  be  used  at  this  and  all  subsequent  pottings. 
Euonymuses  may  be  potted  at  any  time  and  returned  to  their  old  quarters, 
as  they  do  not  require  to  bo  kept  close  and  shaded,  like  many  plants  after 
potting.  Now  roots  are  produced  freely,  and  on  this  account  large 
quantities  of  water  are  required  in  the  growing  season.  Splendid 
specimens  can  be  grown  in  10  and  12-inch  pots,  while  larger  pots  and 
tubs  may  bo  requisitioned  if  desired. 
The  variety  E.  japonicus  aureo-variegata  has  a  good  natural  habit 
without  any  training,  though  sometimes  the  leading  shoots  may  require 
a  stake.  Side  shoots  that  are  inclined  to  straggle  from  the  line  ot  the 
others  may  be  tied  into  a  vacancy  or  cut  back.  The  bottom  growths 
seldom  fail  to  extend  in  proportion  to  the  main  shoot  going  upwards,  and 
of  course  the  leader  may  be  stopped  at  w  hatever  height  is  des  red. 
Pyramidal  form  is  the  best.  E.  radicans  albo-marginata  has  a  trailing 
or  climbing  habit.  It  hpngs  over  the  sides  of  the  pot,  and  in  this  style 
looks  very  pretty.  It  may  also  be  made  to  assume  a  pyramidal  shape  by 
attention  to  staking  and  tying  through  the  growing  season. 
Both  alike  are  subject  to  become  infested  with  aphis.  Occasional 
syringing  does  much  to  remedy  this,  and  is  the  best  way  of  keeping  the 
foliage  clean  and  health}'.  When  well  grown  the  Euonymuses  make 
conspicuous  objects  for  decorative  irse,  and  fully  repay  any  attention  in 
their  growth.  They  are  not  sensitive  to  a  few  hardships,  and  for  either 
greenhouse,  conservatory,  or  porch  decoration  always  prove  their  useful¬ 
ness, — Interested. 
The  Culture  of  Eoliage  Plants. 
With  what  satisfaction  does  the  gardener — yes,  and  his  subordinates — 
enter  the  plant  stove  and  gaze  in  adaiiration  on  the  clean,  healthy  collec¬ 
tion  of  foliage  plants.  The  culture  of  foliage  plants  is  one  of  extreme 
interest,  and  to  some  rather  difficult.  But  what  can  be  more  interesting 
than  to  watch  and  attend  to  the  gradually  developing  growth,  the 
brilliancy  of  increasing  colour,  until  the  plant  or  collection  of  plants 
stand  before  us,  objects  of  rare  beauty  in  themselves,  and  calling  forth 
admiration  from  all  who  inspect  them. 
Crotons.— These  rank  amongst  the  most  popular  foliage  plants,  and 
their  many  good  points,  both  in  colour  and  uselulness,  certainly  entitle 
them  to  a  prominent  position.  The  main  object  to  be  attained  with  regard 
to  Crotons  is  short  stout  growth  and  brilliant  colouring.  If  they  can 
have  a  house  devoted  entirely  to  their  culture  so  much  the  better,  but 
where  that  is  not  possible  grow  them  in  the  most  exposed  position  in  the 
stove.  Plenty  of  moisture,  both  at  the  roots  and  in  the  atmosphere,  is 
essential,  and  on  no  account  shade  them,  with  the  exception,  however,  of 
freshly  rooted  or  newly  potted  plants,  and  then  only  for  a  few  days  until 
they  have  made  a  start. 
Propagating  is  effected  in  two  waj's — namely,  by  cuttings  and  ringimr. 
Insert  the  cuttings  in  small  pots  in  light  soil,  and  plunge  in  a  warm  pro¬ 
pagating  case  with  a  temperature  from  75°  to  80%  and  keep  close  for  a 
few  days.  When  rooted  they  may  be  potted  into  3-inch  pots,  and  for 
some  purposes,  such  ns  table  decoration,  edging  the  plant  stove,  and  othtr 
purposes,  this  size  will  bo  found  largo  enough.  When  this  is  the  case, 
and  the  pots  are  full  of  roots,  feeding  may  commence,  gradually  at  first, 
increasing  the  strength  of  the  manure  water  as  the  plant  becomes  stronger 
and  more  robust.  AVhen  larger  plants  are  required  pot  as  often  as  neces¬ 
sary’,  but  avoid  overpotting,  as  weak  growth  is  the  result.  A  suitable 
compost  for  Crotons  is  loamy  turf,  leaf  soil,  half-decayed  cow  manure, 
charcoal  and  sand  added.  Some  of  the  best  varieties  for  general  purposes 
are  Prince  of  AVales,  Warreni,  Laingi,  Chelsoni,  Ileadi,  angustifolius. 
Newmani,  and  ncany  more. 
Dracaenas. — These  are  very  useful  and  ornamental  foliage  plants. 
Some  of  the  hardier  varieties — such  as  D.  indivisa,  I),  congesta — are 
valuable,  especially  in  winter,  as  they  take  less  harm  in  cold  passages 
than  some  of  the  tenderer  varieties.  There  are  several  methods  of  pro¬ 
pagation.  The  more  usual  mode  is  to  take  off  the  top  and  root  it  in  a  pot ; 
then  cut  the  s'.cin  in  pieces,  taking  care  that  there  is  a  bud  to  each 
division.  Lay  these  in  a  pan  of  cocoa-nut  fibre  refuse  and  sand,  damp 
slightly,  and  put  in  a  good  bottom  heat.  When  rooting  and  growth  has 
commenced,  and  the  plants  are  large  enough,  pot  into  small  pots  in  light, 
moderately  rich  soil,  and  pot  as  often  as  necessary.  Kinging  is  also 
resorted  to  by  some  growers,  and  is  a  fairly'  suceesslul  method.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  shade  these  slightly  in  sunny  weather,  as  they  are  liable  to 
scorch  if  water  happens  to  lie  on  the  foliage.  D.  terminah.s  is  rather  an 
old  variety,  but  still  very'  useful.  Dractenas  Goldiana,  pendula,  elegant- 
issima.  Bausei,  and  Coeperi  rank  amongst  the  choicest  varieties. — 
E.  .1.  B. 
(To  be  concluded.) 
V^K.fou.theWEEK,. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Yines.— Earliest  Forced  in  Pols. — The  heat  about  the  pots  must  not  be 
allowed  to  decline,  but  bring  the  fermenting  materials  up  to  the  rims, 
pressing  them  down,  yet  not  so  as  to  raise  the  temperature  above  70°  to 
75°  A  heap  of  Oak  or  Beech  leaves  and  stable  litter  should  be  in  the 
reserve  ground,  to  admit  of  d  supply  of  prepared  material  being  obtained 
as  required.  AVhen  the  Grapes  are  set  thin  the  berries  carefully,  supply 
liquid  manure  to  the  roots,  and  place  some  turves,  grass  side  downwards, 
around  the  rims  of  the  pots,  so  as  to  form  a  dish,  the  turves  extending 
over  the  rims  and  resting  on  the  fermenting  material,  and  fill  the  dish  with 
decayed  manure.  This  will  encourage  surface  roots,  which  will  extend 
to  the  turves  over  the  rims  of  the  pots  and  into  the  fermenting  material, 
and  thus  greatly  assist  the  Grapes  in  swelling. 
Early  Houses  — Exercise  great  care  in  ventilating,  as  sharp  northerly 
and  easterly  winds,  with  cold  draughts,  injure  the  foliage,  causing  it  to 
become  stunted  and  crumpled,  but  judicious  ventilation  is  essential  to 
sturdy  growth  and  well  developed  foliage.  A  confined  moist  atmosphere, 
on  the  other  hand,  causes  the  growth  to  bpcome  lean  and  drawn,  the 
leaves  thin  and  poor  in  texture,  therefore  liable  to  be  scorched  by  the  sun 
and  fall  a  prey  to  red  spider.  Attend  to  disbudding  and  tying  down  the 
shoots  before  they  touch  the  glass',  being  careful  not  to  displace  them 
from  their  sockets  or  cause  them  to  snap  by  too  sharp  bending  and  too 
ti  ht  tying.  Stop  the  bearing  shoots  near  two  joints  beyond  tbe  show 
for  fruit  where  the  space  is  limited,  but  where  there  is  room  for  lateral 
extension  allow  a  joint  or  two  more,  and  then  let  the  growths  extend  so 
that  an  even  spread  of  foliage  fully  exposed  to  light  will  be  insured,  yet 
avoid  overcrowding,  as  that  is  fatal  to  ‘'atisfactoiy'  results.  Remove  a'i 
surplus  bunches,  and  when  they  come  into  flower  maintain  a  day  and  night 
temperature  of  70°  to  75°,  with  a  decline  however,  of  5°  through  the  night, 
and  a  rather  drier  atmosphere. 
Borises  to  Afford  Ripe  Fruit  in  June.— Theve  must  not  be  any  further 
delay  in  starting  the  Vines  intended  to  produce  Grapes  at  the  time 
named.  If  the  roots  arc  partly  inside  and  partly  outside,  the  latter  border 
must  be  protected  with  leaves  or  litter,  so  as  to  prevent  the  soil  being 
frozen,  but  this  ought  to  have  been  attended  to  in  November.  Supply  the 
inside  border  thoroughly  with  water,  but  only  to  make  the  soil  evenly 
moist,  as  excessive  waterings  in  the  early  stages  hinder  root  formation, 
and  tend  to  induce  sappy  growth  with  shanking  later  on.  If  the  A  ines 
are  weak  supply’  liquid  manure,  not  too  strong,  after  the  border  has  been 
made  fairly  moist.  Sprinkle  the  rods  twice  a  day,  depressing  young  rods 
and  canes  to  a  horizontal  level  or  below,  so  as  to  insure  the  buds  breaking 
evenly’.  Maintain  a  temperature  of  50°  to  55°  at  night  and  on  dull  days, 
advancing  to  65°  from  sun  heat,  continuing  those  heats  until  the  buds  begin 
to  swell,  when  gradually  raise  the  night  temperature,  so  as  to  have  it  60° 
bv  the  time  the  Vines  come  into  leaf,  and  to  65’  by  day  artificially. 
Vines  from  uhioh  the  Grapes  hare  been  cut. — The  sooner  the  Vines  are 
pruned  now  the  less  danger  is  there  of  their  bleeding  froin  the  wounds 
when  the  sap  rises.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  dress  the  cuts  with  styptic  or 
patent  knotting  or  French  polish  whilst  they  are  dry,  so  as  to  close  the 
pores  of  the  wood,  as  a  safeguard  against  bleeding.  Cut  to  a  plump  bud 
as  near  the  base  as  possible,  two  buds  being  sufficient  to  leave  where  the 
wood  is  stout  and  short-jointed,  but  where  the  practice  has  been  followed 
and  not  proved  satisfactory,  the  operator  may  prune  to  the  best  bud  on 
well-ripened  wood.  This  will  cause  the  spurs  to  become  long,  and  a 
shoot  must  be  trained  from  ihe  base  to  displace  f  ach  spur  after  its  shoot 
has  borne  fruit.  Thoroughly  cleanse  the  house,  washing  the  glass  wnh 
clear  water,  the  woodwork  with  disinfectant  soap  and  a  brush  ,  litnewash 
the  walls,  and  remove  the  loose  bark  from  the  Vines,  avoiding  peeling 
and  scraping  that  may  injure  the  live  bark,  and  wash  the.’n  with  a  solution 
of  caustic  soda  and  commercial  potash  (pcarlash),  1  oz.  each,  to  a  gallon 
of  water,  apply  ing  with  a  brush  carefully  and  not  excessively’,  or  use 
some  approved  insecticide.  Surface-dress  the  borders,  clearing  off  the 
loose  surface,  using  fresh  loam,  with  a  handful  of  sulphate  of  potash,  and 
a  6  inch  potful  of  steamed  bonemeal  to  each  barrowload  of  loam.  Keep 
the  house  as  cool  as  possible  to  secure  complete  rest.  If  there  are  plants 
in  the  house  only  afford  fire  heat  to  exclude  frost,  not  exceeding  40  to 
45°  by  artificial  means. 
Late  tr rapes,— These  are  best  cut  with  all  the  wood  that  can  be  spared, 
and  the  ends  of  the  shoots  placed  in  bottles  of  water  in  an  inclining 
position  in  a  Grape  room,  dry  fruit  room,  or  an  empty  room  from  which 
frost  is  excluded  ;  but  not  warm  (above  50‘),  or  the  Grapes  will  shrive  . 
This  will  admit  of  the  Vines  being  pruned  and  the  house  being  cleaned, 
and  it  is  much  better  than  allowing  the  Grapes  to  hang  on  the  V  ines, 
pruning  having  to  be  deferred  until  a  late  period,  whereby  the  latter  are 
liable  to  suffer  through  bleeding  and  want  of  rest.  Maintain  a  tempe¬ 
rature  of  40°  to  45°,  with  a  dry  atmosphere  in  houses  where  Grapes  are 
