January  26,  1899. 
CO  JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
In  examining  tlie  structural  parts  of  plants,  such  as  have  ceased 
to  grow,  as  in  the  full-sized  leaf,  the  perfectly  formed  wood,  we  Hud 
that  the  cells  do  not  correspond  to  the  description  just  given.  In  the 
external  form,  thickness  and  ap))earance  of  the  cell  wall,  and  especially 
in  the  character  of  the  contents,  there  is  infinite  variety,  lint  this 
difference  is  simply  the  result  of  changes  in  the  original  cells  during 
the  processes  of  growth  and  maturity. 
Thus,  many  of  the  tower  orders  of  plants  are  constituted  entirely  of 
cells,  blit  in  higher  orders,  as  in  flowering  plants,  these  simple  cells  are 
ileveloped  into  cellular  tissue,  wood  tissue,  and  vascular  tissue.  The 
plant,  then,  when  fixed  in  the  earth,  consists  of  the  root,  stem,  and 
leaf,  all  of  which  are  developed  by  the  proliferation  or  generation  of 
cells  from  the  parent  cell  or  cells  in  the  germ  vesicle  cells  of  the  seed. 
We  have  now  to  consider  the  nature  of  the  food  used  by  the  plant 
cell.  'J'his  food  consists  of  the  elements  of  the  atmosphere,  and  of 
the  mineral  or  inorganic  substances  of  the  earth.  Wonderful  and 
mysterious,  indeed,  is  the  power  of  the  plant  cells;  under  the  influence 
of  the  sun’s  rays  to  separate  from  atmospheric  air  the  compound 
known  as  carbonic  acid  gas,  and  to  disintegrate  and  to  appropriate  to 
its  usg  the  elements  contained  in  the  hardest  rocks. 
While  we  know  the  elements  essential  to  plants  as  food,  and  the 
forms  of  combination  of  the  elements  best  adapted  to  the  growth  of 
plants,  we  are  almost  entirely  ignorant  of  the  methods  by  which  they 
acquire  their  food,  and  build  up  such  tissues  as  cellulose,  starch, 
albumen,  oil,  fat,  resin,  and  other  matter  which  constitute  their 
structure  and  products.  This  power  of  appropriating  and  assimilating 
elements  must  be  largely  referred  to  the  vital  chemistry  of  the  plant. 
It  was  thought  at  one  time  that  jdfnts  lived  on  humus  or 
vegetable  mould,  and  that  the  mineral  substances  found  in  their 
ashes  were  accidental  or  extraneous ;  but  we  now  know'  from  actual 
research  that  mineral  substances  enter  into  the  vegetable  structure 
i:i  solution  as  food,  and  that  plants  cannot  exist  without  them.  Yet 
it,  is  true  that  they  are  required  in  very  minute  proportions  in  com¬ 
parison  with  the  carbonaceous  and  nitrogenous  food  of  the  plant. 
In  reality  by  far  the  largest  portion  of  the  bulk  of  plants  is  made 
up  of  a  combination  of  organic  substances;  about  95  jar  cent,  of 
so  called  atmospheric  food,  such  as  carbon,  hydrogen,  oxygen,  and 
nitrogen  ;  the  remaining  5  per  cent,  is  obtained  from  the  soil,  and  is 
called  mineral  food,  consisting  of  potash,  soda,  magnesia,  lime,  phos¬ 
phoric  acid,  sulphuric  acid,  and  iron.  These  are  the  elements 
considered  to  be  the  most  essential  as  plant  food.  It  is,  how^ever, 
only  nitrogen,  potash,  and  phosphoric  acid,  which  have  aptly  been  called 
the  golden  tripod  of  plant  life,  that  the  gardener  need,  as  a  rule, 
ti'ouble  himself  about,  except  in  certain  cases,  when  the  element  lime 
becomes  absolutely  nrcessai'y.  These  are  the  substances  that  should 
rule  the  selection  and  purchase  of  artificial  manures. — J.  J.  Willis, 
llarpcnden. 
IIAIIK  PRUNING  AND  LIFTING  OLD  FEAR 
TREES. 
Bark  pruning,  or  the  ringing  of  fruit  trees  with  a  view  to  bringing 
them  into  early  bearing,  is  a  method  by  w'hich  temporary  returns 
may  be  obtained,  but  the  practice  has  not,  I  think,  much  to  recom¬ 
mend  it  in  a  general  sense.  ’J’recs  prone  to  extreme  vigour  produce 
r<iots  few  in  number  and  of  a  size  proportionate  to  that  of  the 
bi'anches,  and  vigorous  growth  often  indicates  deep  root  burrowing  in 
the  subsoil. 
So  long  as  this  thong-like  root  growth  is  allowed  to  go  un¬ 
checked,  there  is  not  the  remotest  chance  of  getting  those  of  a 
fibrous  nature  in  quantity',  or  near  the  surface,  and  I  cannot  see 
what  beneficial  influence  cair  bo  brought  to  bear  on  the  production 
ol  root  fibres  by  ringing  of  the  main  stem  or  branches.  It  is  easy'  to 
understand  that  in  a  young  vigorous  tree  ringing  of  the  bark  would 
so  check  the  flow  of  sap  and  the  excessive  growth  as  to  promote  that 
of  a  more  fruit-beating  chaiacter  for  a  time.  Except  in  such  cases 
where  access  to  the  roots  is  rendered  impossible  from  local  circum¬ 
stances,  1  should  not  consider  it  advisable  to  adopt  ringing  as  a 
substitute  for  root-pruning,  and  I  think  it  will  be  found  that  the 
course  taken  by  Mr.  Bicker  (page  49)  in  dealing  with  his  o!d  deep- 
rooted  trees  is  the  better  one. 
By  sev(  ring  tap  roots  of  large  size  a  preat  check  is  given  the  tree, 
and  by  enriching  the  surrounding  soil,  mulching  and  watering  in  dry 
weather,  roots  of  a  fruit-prcducing  character  aie  sure  to  follow'  in  due 
course.  A  stone  slab  of  18  inches  square  could  not  serve  any  useful 
purpose,  and  would  prove  a  hindrance  rather  than  otherwise  in  root- 
pruning  even  a  much  younger  tree.  A  layer  of  dry  lime  rubble 
9  inches  thick  at  a  suitable  depth  has  been  found  a  good  provision 
against  deep  root  burrowing  in  Pear  trees.  The  course  advised  by 
the  Editor  of  reducing  the  branches  and  laterals  would  much  assist 
the  trees  after  the  severe  operation  to  w'hich  they  have  been 
subjected. —  W.  S. 
ASFARAGUS. 
It  is  diflicult  to  write  anything  new  in  respect  of  the  culture  of 
this  vegetable,  but  considering  the  high  estimation  in  which  it  is 
held  both  in  large  and  small  establishments,  no  apology  should  be 
necessary  fora  few  remarks  on  a  well-worn  subject.  Except  on  very 
strong  land  Asparagus  is  not  difficult  to  grow.  In  light  sandy  soils, 
given  generous  treatment,  it  will  thrive  like  a  weed,  reproducing  itself  in 
all  sorts  of  odd  corners,  and  with  such  ground  expensive  methods  of  pre- 
])aration'arc  not  needful ;  in  fact,  simple  p  ractice  leads  top)rofitable  results. 
With  clay  the  case  is  totally  different,  special  beds  ‘must  be  formed. 
The  winter  is  the  best  time  to  eommence  this  operation.  If  the  soil 
is  very  strong  it  may  be  found  advisable  to  remove  some  of  the  original, 
refilling  with  old  refuse  from  the  potting  sheds,  road  scrapings,  leaf 
soil  if  procurable,  ashes  from  rubbish  fires — anything,  in  fact,  having  an 
opening  tendency.  If  the  land  is  not  well  drained,  this  must  be 
provided  by  some  means  if  good  crops  are  to  result. 
There  is  still  to  my  mind  no  better  method  of  arranging  Asparagus 
beds  than  the  old  one  of  having  three  rows  of  plants  in  a  bed  5  feet 
across,  one  row  through  the  centre  and  the  others  18  inches  from  it  on 
each  side,  and  having  alleys  between  about  15  inches  wide.  The 
materials  1  have  mentioned  above  should  be  trenched  into  the  soil, 
and  as  far  as  possible  be  dug  over  two  or  three  times  during  the 
w'inter,  to  thoroughly  mix  the  whole.  I  am  aware  that  some  very 
good  gardeners  grow  their  Asparagus  on  a  different  system — viz.,  in 
rows  from  0  to  8  feet  apart,  with  other  crops  between.  This  is,  I 
think,  more  suitable  for  large  places  ;  in  a  small  garden  the  old- 
fashioned  beds  count  very  much  for  tidiness,  and  are  p>referable. 
On  light,  well-manured  land  seeds  of  Asparagus  may  be  sown  in 
April,  in  drills  3  or  4  inches  in  deprth  and  18  inches  apart.  If  this  is 
done,  every  fourth  row  may  be  taken  up  at  the  end  of  a  year,  and  the 
spiaccs  thus  formed  will  constitute  the  paths.  The  young  plants  will 
eventually  require  thinning  to  about  15  inches  asunder  in  the  rows. 
If  the  seeds  were  sown  thinly  in  the  first  instance,  they  may  all  grow 
together  the  first  year,  but  if  at  all  crowded  they  should  be  thinned 
wlien  2  or  3  inches  in  height.  As  is  generally  recognised  now',  plant¬ 
ing  is  best  done  in  spming,  when  the  crowns  are  beginning  to  move. 
Opien  sufficient  ground  to  allow  the  roots  to  be  spread  out  fully  and 
evenlj',  and,  when  finished,  the  crow'us  may  be  about  3  inches  below 
the  surface. 
On  more  than  one  occasion  I  have  been  asked  when  to  cut  dow'n 
A.sparagus,  almost  as  if  there  were  some  mystery  about  this  p^rocess. 
The  old  growths,  as  a  rule,  may  be  cut  the  first  or  second  w'eek  in 
November,  but  excep^t  on  the  score  of  neatness  (of  course  that  is 
important)  there  is  no  need  for  extreme  haste.  It  must  be  remembered 
the  sooner  the  ground  is  cleared  so  much  the  earlier  may  a  good 
mulching  of  manure  be  applied  if  thought  necessary.  Is  it,  however, 
leally  essential  that  Asparagus  should  have  as  much  manure  as  it 
often  gets  ?  True,  it  is  a  gross  feeder,  still  there  is  usually  the  salt  in 
spring  as  well  as  the  autumn  dressing.  A  friend  of  mine  having  read 
in  the  Journal  of  a  gardener  who  was  in  the  habit  of  using  the  ashes 
from  the  refuse  fires  was  led  to  try  these  each  alternate  year  with  most 
excellent  results. 
Scarcely  enough  importance  is,  I  think,  attached  to  watering  in 
dr}'  seasons.  I  took  charge  of  some  twenty  year-old  beds  in  the 
cutting  season,  and  there  seemed  to  be  the  greatest  difficulty  in 
maintaining  a  supply  for  the  house.  We  gave  a  light  dressing  of 
nitrate  of  soda,  and  a  thorough  watering,  repeating  the  latter  as 
needed.  In  a  fortnight  there  was  ampde  produce,  while  in  three  weeks 
Asparagus  was  being  given  away.  The  nitrate  was  npeated  once 
or  twice  afterwards,  and  a  good  supply  was  easily  maintained. 
Forcing  Asparagus  is  not  a  hard  matter  if  pro})er  convenience  is  at 
hand  for  heating.  I  have  seen  blanched  stems  cut  from  a  Mushroom 
house  which  were  much  appreciated,  but  as  a  rule  it  is  best  grown  in 
a  frame,  so  that  the  light  may  have  the  necessary  effect,  and  good 
green  heads  be  produced.  However  showy  the  great  white  bundles 
of  French  piroduco  one  sees  in  shop  windows  may  be,  I  should  certainly 
pmelor  good  green  topis  cut  just  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  about 
6  or  7  inches  in  length,  with  enough  white  left  on  to  serve  as  a 
“  handle.” 
In  my  opinion  salt  is  sometimes  given  too  freely  to  Asparagus.  A 
light  dressing  is  better  than  a  very  heavy  one  so  long  as  enough  is 
applied  to  kill  weeds.  The  tendency  of  salt  is  to  lower  the  tempierature 
of  the  soil,  and  this  is  not  desirable.  To  sum  upi.  Asparagus  should 
have  the  best  of  culture,  be  kept  clear  of  weeds,  and  then  the  grower 
will  be  justified  in  expecting  good  succulent  heads,  whether  his  object 
is  the  market  or  an  employer’s  table. — J.  Shalfori). 
