January  26,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULl'URE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
73 
injurious  to  the  well-beinj'  of  the  tree,  or  the  young  fruit  will  drop  badly. 
Cleanliness  in  all  things  must  be  rigidly  observed. 
Assuming  the  trees  have  naturally  cast  their  leaves,  pruning  should 
'bo  taken  in  hand,  and  experience  is  necessary  in  this  operation,  as 
thoughtlessness  would  soon  ruin  the  fruiting  properties  of  the  tree.  No 
more  old  wood  ought  to  bo  taken  out  than  will  permit  that  left  behind 
being  laid  in  at  an  even  distance  of,  say,  5  or  6  inches,  more  or  less, 
•according  to  the  condition  of  the  tree.  After  pruning,  thoroughly  wash 
all  glass  and  woodwork,  and,  if  necessary,  dress  the  trees  with  Gishurst 
■compound,  a  sharp  look  out  being  kept  for  scale,  which,  if  left,  soon 
multiply,  and  give  the  leaves  in  the  summer  an  unsightly  appearance, 
besides  being  injurious  to  the  fruit.  In  training  the  trees,  endeavour  to 
get  every  branch  and  growth  straight  and  evenly  distributed.  Look  to 
the  border  after  all  training  has  been  completed,  taking  ofiE  the  surface 
soil  down  to  the  roots,  and,  if  at  all  dry,  afford  a  good  watering  of  clear 
water,  afterwards  adding  a  rich  root-enticing  compost  ns  a  top-dressing. 
The  Figs  are  then  ready  for  starting,  and,  until  such  time  as  this  comes, 
should  be  kept  quite  cool,  merely  excluding  frost. 
In  many  places  early  forcing  of  Figs  is  practised  by  the  means  of 
young  trees  in  pots,  these,  if  necessary,  having  been  repotted  on  the  fall 
of  Ihe  leaf,  not  giving  too  great  a  snift.  They  ought  to  be  started  early  in 
December  if  r.pe  fruits  are  required  by  the  middle  of  the  following 
April.  Plunge  the  pots  to  the  rim  in  sweet  fermenting  material,  having 
a  temperature  of  about  75°.  The  house  should  be  started  with  a 
temperature  of  45°  to  50°  by  night,  allowing  5°  more  during  the  daytime. 
Gradually  raise  the  temperature  as  growth  advances,  judiciously  watering 
with  both  clear  water  and  liquid  manure,  the  latter  more  especially  as  the 
fruit  is  swelling.  Frequent  syringings  to  keep  insects  at  bay,  thoughtful 
stopping  at  four  or  five  leaves,  thinning  of  weakly  growths,  and  gradually 
hardening  as  ripening  approaches,  constitute  the  chief  items  in  this 
direction.  Care  will  be  needed  when  the  fruit  has  reached  that  stage 
when  it  appears  stationary,  as  no  hurrying  must  then  take  place,  or 
disaster  may  ensue, — Semper. 
(To  be  continued.) 
i 
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FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers.  —  Z’aisiny  Plants  in  Frames.  —  The  mafeiial  for  making 
the  seedling  be.Is  being  in  a  fit  condition  for  turning  over  and  mixing 
with  leaves,  so  as  to  induce  a  sweet  regular  heat,  a  site  for  the  bed 
should  be  chosen  with  a  full  southern  aspect,  and  having  shelter  to 
the  north,  as  that  of  a  wall.  If  the  ground  be  rather  higher  where 
the  bed  is  to  be  formed  than  the  surrounding  level,  all  the  better. 
Mix,  and  beat  the  materials  well  down  with  the  fork  as  the  work 
proceeds,  making  the  bed  about  5  feet  high  at  the  back  and  4  feet 
6  inches  in  front,  which  will  allow  for  settling,  as  it  will  do  about 
one-third.  A  few  Pea  sticks  placed  across  and  along  the  bed  at  intervals 
not  only  prevents  overheating,  but  admits  of  the  heat  from  linings  being 
conveyed  to  the  interior  of  the  bed.  For  early  work  frames  with  an 
inner  lining  are  an  advantage.  They  are  formed  by  placing  quarter-inch 
boards  11  inches  in  depth  at  the  back  and  9  inches  in  front,  with  the 
bottom  edges  level  with  the  bottom  of  the  box,  nailing  strips  of  wood  an 
inch  wide  and  thick  on  the  inside  of  the  frame,  and  then  the  boards 
which  form  a  cavity  all  around  the  inside  of  the  box,  and  thus  top 
heat  is  furnished.  In  a  week,  after  making  up  the  bed  and  putting  on 
the  frame  and  light,  level  the  surface  of  the  bed,  replace  the  box,'and 
place  in  sufficient  sweetened  fermenting  material  to  raise  the  inside  to 
within  4  inches  of  the  inner  casing,  placing  partially  decayed,  rather  dry 
leaves,  or  sifted  spent  tan  on  the  manure,  and  bringing  up  level  with  the 
casing,  which  will  allow  of  the  pots  being  plunged  about  3  inches. 
To  raise  the  plants,  3-inch  pots  are  half  filled  with  light  rich  loam, 
placing  one  seed  in  the  centre  of  each  pot.  covering  about  half  an  inch 
with  fine  moist  soil,  so  that  no  water  is  needed  until  after  germination. 
Space  is  thus  left  in  the  pot  for  top-dressing,  which  is  preferable  to 
moving  the  plants,  A  square  of  glass  placed  over  each  pot  will  hasten 
the  germination,  but  it  must  be  removed  as  soon  as  the  plants  appear. 
The  plants  from  a  sowing  made  early  in  Febiuary  will  bo  ready  for 
planting  early  in  March,  and  will  afford  fruit  at  the  end  of  April  or 
early  in  Maj\ 
Vines. — Early  Fcrced  in  Pofs.— Although  it  is  desirable  to  thin  the 
berries  somewhat  freely,  it  is  essential  that  enough  be  left  to  form 
compact  bunches.  Maintain  the  temperature  at  66°  at  night,  falling  to 
60°  on  cold  mornings,  65°  to  70°  by  day,  admitting  a  little  air  at  75° 
increasing  the  temperature  with  sun  heat  to  80°  or  85°,  closing  the  house 
at  80°  with  a  prospect  of  an  advance  to  85°  or  90°,  at  the  .same  time 
damping  the  house.  Sprinkle  the  paths  and  walls  in  the  morning  and 
evening  when  sharp  firing  is  had  recourse  to,  but  avoid  causing  a  steam. 
Great  care  is  necessary  m  ventilating,  admitting  a  little  air  a^a  time  so 
as  not  to  reduce  the  temperature,  but  to  prevent  its  rising  suddenly  to  an 
unsafe  point.  Afford  copious  supplies  of  liquid  manure  a  few  degrees 
warmer  than  the  mean  temperature  of  the  house. 
Early  Force i  PI  inted  out  Vines. — Remove  all  duplicate  bunches,  thinning 
the  berries  immediately  they  are  well  formed.  Give  attention  to  stopping 
bud  laterals  and  tying  bud  shoots.  It  is  assumed  that  the  bearing 
growths  have  been  stopped  two  or  three  joints  beyond  the  fruit.  Where 
the  space  is  restricted  they  may  be  pinched  to  one  joint  above  the  bunch. 
In  any  case  the  axillary  growths  can  be  stopped  at  the  first  joint,  and 
to  one  leaf  afterwards  as  fresh  growth  is  made.  If  this  is  likely  to 
interfere  with  the  principal  leaves  the  laterals  must  be  rubbed  off  except 
from  the  two  lowest  leaves,  those  on  a  level  with  and  above  the  fruit 
being  stopped  to  one  joint.  The  principal  foliage  should  be  fully  exposed 
to  light  and  air,  overcrowding  being  highly  prejudicial.  Very  close 
stopping,  however,  is  not  to  bo  recommended  where  there  is  room  for 
extension,  as  the  increase  of  foliage  promotes  root  action,  therefore 
preserve  all  foliage  consistent  with  its  full  exposure  to  light.  If  there 
are  no  fermenting  materials  or  evaporation  troughs  in  the  house  the  floors 
and  borders  may  be  sprinkled  with  diluted  stable  drainings.  Where  the 
soil  is  of  a  very  porous  nature,  or  the  borders  of  limited  area,  the 
whole  of  the  surface  of  inside  borders  may  be  covered  with  sweetened 
horse  droppings,  then  the  water  applied  passing  through  the  light 
mulching  will  excite  root  action,  and  with  the  leaves  in  good  condition 
the  berries  swell  freely. 
Houses  in  which  the  Vines  are  in  bloom  should  be  maintained  steadily 
at  65°  at  night,  70°  to  75°  by  day,  and  5"  to  10°  more  from  sun  heat,  with 
5°  more  all  round  for  Muscats.  Black  Muscat  (Hamburgh)  and  even 
Madresfiold  Court,  also  Muscat  of  Alexandria  and  other  varieties  liable 
to  set  indifferently,  may  be  assisted  by  tapping  the  bunches  every  day,  or 
more  certainly  by  applying  ripe  pollen,  drawing  a  brush  lightly  over  the 
bunches.  A  constant  circulation  of  dry  warm  air  is  conducive  to  a  good 
set,  and  it  is  advisable  not  to  stop  the  growth  closely  during  the  setting 
period.  If  any  varieties  are  deficient  of  pollen  it  may  be  taken  from  those 
affording  it  freely,  such  as  Black  Hamburgh,  collecting  it  on  a  sheet  of 
paper,  and  then  loading  a  brush  with  if,  pass  it  over  the  bunches  of  the 
shy  setter. 
Vines  Started  at  the  New  Year. — Continue  to  syringe  the  rods  twice  a 
day  until  the  bunches  are  formed,  when  it  is  best  discontinued,  but  main¬ 
taining  plenty  of  atmospheric  moisture  by  damping  the  paths  and  borders 
two  or  three  times  a  day.  Increase  the  temperature  to  55°  at  night,  and 
from  that  gradually  to  60°  after  the  buds  start,  60°  to  65°  by  day,  with  an 
advance  from  sun  heat  to  75°  and  ventilation  in  accordance  with  the  state 
of  the  external  air.  It  is  desirable  to  keep  up  a  supply  of  ammonia  in  all 
houses  by  turning  over  any  fermenting  material,  sprinkling  sweetened 
horse  droppings  on  the  border,  damping  with  liquid  manure  or  having 
the  evaporation  troughs  kept  filled  with  the  same. 
Houses  to  Afford  Pipe  Grapes  in  July. — Start  the  Vines  at  the  beginning 
of  February.  There  is  no  need  to  cover  the  outside  border  with  more 
protective  material,  such  as  leaves  or  litter  ;  these  suffice  to  prevent  the 
soil  being  frozen.  If  the  Vines  are  planted  outside,  see  that  the  stems 
are  well  protected  by  hayband.o,  for  if  these  become  frozen  after  the  Vines 
have  started  into  growth,  it  is  certain  they  will  receive  a  severe  check  and 
the  crop  be  lost.  Syringe  the  rods  two  or  three  times  a  day,  maintaining 
a  temperature  of  50°  at  night  and  65°  by  day  with  sun  heat.  Supply 
inside  borders  with  water  or  liquid  manure,  but  only  to  bring  the  soil 
into  a  moist  condition,  taking  care  not  to  make  it  sodden  and  sour. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Early  Celery. — If  Celery  is  wanted  very  early  seeds  should  be  sown 
at  once,  giving  the  preference  to  a  good  white  var;ety.  The  seeds  should 
be  sown  on  the  surface  of  pans  of  fine  soil  made  level  and  moistened. 
Cover  very  lightly,  if  at  all,  with  fine  soil,  place  on  a  mild  hotbed  or  in  a 
moist,  brisk  heat,  cover  with  a  square  of  glass,  shade  heavily,  and  be 
careful  not  to  disturb  the  seed  by  careless  watering.  When  large  enough 
prick  them  in  boxes  of  light  loamy  soil,  and  still  keep  them  in  a  light 
position  and  gentle  heat.  Subsequently  they  may  be  grown  in  frames  or 
in  6- inch  pots. 
Onions.— If  extra  fine  Onions  are  required  for  competition  at  shows,  the 
plants  to  produce  them  should  be  raised  under  glass  and  duly  planted  out. 
This  plan  is  also  the  best  to  follow  by  all  who  have  hitherto  experienced 
any  difficulty  in  obtaining  heavy  crops  of  sound,  good  keeping  bulbs, 
Wlien  raised  in  gentle  heat  not  a  seed  or  a  plant  is  wasted,  an  early  start 
is  insured,  and  a  perfect  maturation  of  bulbs  inevitable.  If  the  seed  is 
.sown  somewhat  thinly  in  boxes  of  light  loamy  soil  the  plants  may 
eventually  be  moved  from  the  boxes  to  where  they  are  to  be  grown  to 
their  full  size,  but  if  raised  thickly  they  ought  to  be  pricked  into  other 
boxes  and  kept  in  these  for  a  time.  Press  the  seed  into  the  soil,  cover 
with  a  little  fine  soil,  and  place  in  a  moderately  warm  house,  pit,  or  frame 
to  germinate. 
Early  Leeks, — For  ordinary  purposes  the  plants  may  well  be  raised  in 
the  open  ground,  sowing  the  seed  late  in  February  or  early  in  March,  but 
if  fine  Leeks  are  wanted  comparatively  early  sow  the  seed  and  treat  the 
plants  throughout  similarly  to  Celery. 
Carrots  and  Radishes.  -  For  these  a  gentle,  lasting  heat  is  required, 
and  the  hotbeds  may  be  formed  either  in  pits  or  in  a  sheltered  open 
position  somewhat  larger  than  the  frames  to  be  stood  on  them.  About 
6  inches  of  light  sandy  soil,  such  as  may  be  obtained  by  sifting  over  a 
heap  of  old  potting  soil,  is  enough  for  the  surface.  Sow  the  seed,  directly 
all  danger  from  overheating  of  the  hotbed  is  past,  in  shallow  drills.  If 
Carrots  and  Radishes  are  grown  together,  as  they  may  well  be,  the 
former  should  be  sown  in  drills  8  inches  apart,  and  midway  between 
these  a  row  of  Radishes.  In  any  ease,  thin  sowing  to  obviate  the  neces¬ 
sity  for  thinning,  should  be  practised,  covering  the  seel  with  a  little  fine 
soil.  The  Radishes  will  be  ready  for  use  and  drawn  long  before  the 
whole  of  the  space  is  required  by  the  Carrots. 
