88 
Felruary  2,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  ITORTICULTIJRE  AN B  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
SEASONABLE  NOTES, 
In  the  “  Ivosarians’  Year.  Book”  Dr. Shack leton  strongly advoc.ites 
the  use  of  standard  Eoses  for  suburban  gardens,  as  tending  to  lift 
the  Eose  growth  into  a  clearer,  atmosphere,  .  There  may  be  some 
force  in  this  remark,  but  I  am  inclined  to  think  the  main  benefit  is 
derived  from  the  plant  beipg  less  liable  to  rain  splashes  and  dirt. 
A  Eose  upon  a  standard  or  half-standard  stem  looks  larger,  and  is 
ilicidedly  showier  than  the  same  sized  plant  would  appear  when 
!.!’Own  as  a  bush.  For  many  years  we  have  cultivated  the  weaker- 
gi  owing  Teas  and  Noisettes  in  this  form,  and  also  those  with  a  tendency 
u.  drooping  blossoms,  such  as  Souvenir  d’un  Ami,  alba  rosea,  and 
aman  Cochet. 
The  short  Briar  stem,  and  those  reaching  to  some  fe^,  suit 
a  most  any  Eose ;  but  when  taller  stems  are  used  it  is  well  to  have 
vigorous  growers,  and  those  producing  long  rods,  that  will  be  covered 
with  blossoms  throughout  their  length,  and  droop  over  in  more  or  less 
weeping  form.  When  grown  in  the  centre  of  Eose  beds,  or  singly 
upon  the  lawn,  such  standards  are  seen  to  advantage ;  but  we  must 
have  strong,  or  at  least  very  free  growers.  And  if  the  greater  longevity 
of  dwarfs  has  lessened  the  proportion  of  standards  that  were  formerly 
grown,  tow  forms  are  showier  when  a  judicious  selection  of  varieties 
has  been  made;  and  much  more  depends  upon  this  in  the  case  of 
standards  than  with  dwarfs. 
We  have  a  large  death  roll  among  standards  because  we  are  treat¬ 
ing  the  stock  itself  in  so  unnatural  a  manner  by  constantly  cutting 
away  the  suckers  all  Briars  almost  invariably  throw  as  soon  as 
established.  With  dwarfs  we  bud  close  upon  the  crown  of  the  root, 
and  few  suckers  result.  In  standards  we  leave  the  whole  of  the  root 
free,  and  a  large  proportion  of  the  stem.  It  is  the  nature  of  Briars 
to  make  vigorous  and  rather  coarse  roots,  and  to  throw  out  suckers 
from  time  , to  time.  ^Jf  we  curtail  this  we  must  provide  a  Eose  of 
sufficient  vigour  to  keep  the  roots  active,  and  be  able  to  draw  the  sap 
up  the  Briar  stem. 
If  we  work  a  weak-growing  .variety  as  a  dwarf  upon  such  vigorous 
stocks  as  the  De  la  Gritferaie, we  soon  find  it  overpowered  and  rapidly 
deteriorating.  No  doubt  this  is  caused  by  the  great  contrast  between 
the  constitution  of  Eose  and  stock.  On  the  other  hand,  a  naturally 
vigorous  grower  will  give  a  very  different  result,  as  the  stock  and 
Eose  are  more  at  union  in  their  reciuirements.  Briars  in  a  state  of 
nature  produce  long, coarse  roots,  and  often  develop  suckers  throughout 
their  whole  length,  and  this  in  spite  of  the  most  careful  trimming  of 
roots.  To  avoid  this  it  is  a  good  plan  to  lift  the  plants  every  four  or 
five  years  in  order  to  cut  such  away  more  thoroughly.  The  lifting 
when  done  in  seasop  is  decidedly  beneficial  rather  than  harmful,  and 
we  get  more  fibrous  roots.  We. plant  Briar  stocks  early  in  the  autumn, 
and  should  do  the  same  with,  standard  Eoses,  for  after  all  it  is  the 
Briar  we  are  considering  when  transplanting. 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  to  be  forced  in  pots  should  be  pruned  now 
and  cut  back  harder  than  ihany  practise.  We  only  grow  these  under 
glass  because  of  their  deep  and  glowing  colours.  Other  shades  can 
oe  much  better  obtained  from  the  Teas  and  a  few  Hybrid  Teas.  Of 
all  H.P.  Eoses  General  Jacqueminot  is  far  away  from  the  rest  as  a 
forcer.  It  is  a  freer  bloomer  than  others,  comes  a  good  colour,  has 
pointed  buds,  opens  well,  and  is  deliciously  scented.  All  of  the  H.P.’s 
should  be  brought  on  very  steadily  until  they  show  new  growths  of 
some  inch  or  so  in  length,  after  which  a  gentle  rise  may  be  given  until 
the  flower  buds  are  discernible,  when  they  may  be  forced  at  will. 
But  if  we  hurry  and  excite  the  sap  in  the  wood  too  much  before  the 
roots  are  active  the  result  is  2  inches  or  so  of  growth,  aud  then  a 
sudden  check,  which  is  generally  fatal  to  many  flowers. 
Because  the  weather,  has  been  so  mild,  and  a  few  Eoses  are 
pushing  into  growth  in  sheltered  places,  I  note  that  several  have  begun 
pruning.  But  none  of  these  was  a  Eose  grower.  It  was  invariably 
that  most  useful  man  who  can  do  and  understands  everything  pertain¬ 
ing  to  the  garden.  We  all  know  him.  By  no  means  prune  until  (he 
end  of  next  month,  let  the  weather  be  what  it  may.  How  many 
biishels  of  Eoses  are  cut  away  each  year  late  in  the  autumn  when  our 
friend  the  jobbing  gardener  is  tidying  up  the  villa  garden  for  the 
winter  months.  Long  growths  of  our  showiest  Eoses  are  removed 
as  useless  because  they  did  not  flower  during  the  past  summer,  and 
are  waving  about  in  the  way.  They  are  really  the  most  valuable  wood 
of  .all,  and  will  produce  by  far  the  best  and  greatest  number  of  blossoms 
in  the  following  year.  It  is  such  an  easy  matter  to  secure  them  until 
[iruning  time  arrives,  when,  as  a  rule,  with  that  class  of  Eose  all  we 
have  to  do  is  to  thin  out  old  wood  to  make  room  for  the  very  shoots 
I  haa’e  recently  seen  cut  away  so  ruthlessly. 
Turning  once  more  to  Eoses  under  glass,  I  would  say  a  few  words 
about  those  in  unheated  houses.  These  are  pushing  into  growth,  and 
as  the  sun  gains  power  will  progress  rapidly,  unless  we  get  a  spell  of 
cold  weather ;  even  then  they  are  apt  to  be  premature  in  growth,  only 
to  be  caught  by  cold  weather  when  some  3  inches  or  so  long.  Give 
as  much  ventilation  as  possible,  and  keep  them  backward  until  the 
early  part  of  February.  When  they  do  start,  the  heat  from  sun  and 
shelter  from  glass  will  bring  them  along  apace — too  fast,  In  fact, 
unle.ss  one  is  very  careful  to  regulate  by  ventilation.  This  is  the 
difficulty  with  Eoses  in  unheated  houses— one  cannot  be  sure  of  a 
fairly  uniform  temperature.  But  much  can  be  done  in  keeping  the 
plants  back  until  such  time  as  the  protection  from  glass  will  be 
sufficient  to  save  from  late  frosts.  Often  have  I  flattered  myself  that 
the  plants  were  carrying  healthy  and  promising  young  growths,  that 
were  so  far  advanced  as  to  be  almost  certain  of  a  satisfactory  crop  ; 
but  a  few  dull  d.ay.s,  and  the  inevitable  damping  when  one  is  not  able 
to  u.se  a  little  tire  he.at  to  counteract  it,  have  been  fatal.  It  is  the 
same  from  cold,  if  we  hurry  our  plants  too  much  at  first. — Practice. 
EARLY  PEAS. 
Dry,  warm  sheltered  borders  are  to  be  found  in  some  gardens  very 
suitable  for  the  ])roduction  of  early  vegetables.  If,  in  addition,  the  soil 
is  rich,  deep  aud  fertile,  or  can  be  thoroughly  well  cultivated  by  double 
digging  or  trenching  as  w'ell  as  liberal  manuring,  it  will  be  in  fine  con¬ 
dition  for  sowing  an  early  crop  of  Peas.  A  few  rows  of  the  round 
seeded  first  early  kinds,  such  as  Sutton’s  Bountiful,  William  I.,  and 
Dickson’s  First  and  Best,  may  be  sown  at  once.  There  are  also  early 
wrinkled  seeded  varieties,  some  of  the  best  being  William  Hurst, 
Chelsea  Gem,  and  English  Wonder.  All  these  are  reliable  dwarf 
varieties,  which  under  favourable  conditions  give  good  returns  by  pro¬ 
ducing  splendid  crops  of  tender  Peas. 
Narrow  sloping  borders,  well  protected  on  every  hand,  but  fully 
open  to  the  sun,  ought,  it'  possible,  to  be  chosen  for  these  early  crops. 
It  is  the  cold  cutting  winds  of  spring  which  are  the  greatest  enemies 
to  the  young  Pea  growth,  hence  the  need  of  adequate  shelter,  which 
may  be  further  enhanced  by  early  furnishing  the  Peas  with  sticks. 
Early  Peas  may  be  sown  somewdiat  thicker  than  varieties  sown  sub¬ 
sequently.  Place  the  seeds  in  drills,  3  or  4  inches  wide  and  2  inches 
deep,  drawn  with  a  hoe.  Cover  the  seed  with  fine  soil,  and  then  fill 
up  the  drills  with  the  soil  on  each  side.  Three  feet  distance  between 
the  rows  is  a  suitable  distance  for  early  crops,  as  all  the  varieties  are 
of  dwarf  growth. 
In  addition  to  sowing  outdoors,  it  is  quite  feasible  to  advance  an 
early  crop  by  sowing  in  boxes,  pots,  or  on  strips  of  turf  under  glass, 
but  not  under  the  influence  of  heat.  Strips  of  turf  may  be  laid 
grass  side  downwards  in  boxes,  the  ends  or  bottoms  of  which  are 
movable.  Wooden  or  zinc  spouting  answers  well.  Scoop  out  a 
space  in  the  soil  to  receive  the  seed,  not  sowing  too  thickly,  and  cover 
with  fine  soil.  Place  in  a  frame  or  cool  house  where  germination  will  be 
steady,  consequently  the  young  plants  will  advance  sturdily.  Plenty 
of  air  must  be  afforded  them,  and  a  position  near  the  glass.  If  sown 
in  pots,  employ  those  34  or  4  inches  in  diameter,  and  stand  them  on  a 
moist  base.  The  turf  used  or  the  soil  being  thoroughly  moist  at  the 
time  of  sowing,  only  a  slight  sprinkling  of  water  will  be  necessary 
after  the  seed  is  covered. 
The  most  important  matter  is  to  prevent  them  growing  too  quickly, 
w'hereby  the  plants  become  drawn.  This  can  only  be  effected  by  a 
constant  circulation  of  air  about  them,  and  giving  them  exposure  to 
the  outer  atmosphere  on  favourable  opportunities,  hence  the  value  and 
convenience  of  frames  from  which  the  lights  can  be  drawn  off. 
Previous  to  planting  them  out  in  the  open,  fully  expose  for  some  time, 
protecting  from  sudden  frosts  and  rough  winds. 
Plant  in  shallow  trenches,  which  afford  a  little  protection  from  the 
winds,  and  furnish  them  with  short  branching  stakes  as  sufiport, 
giving  the  rows  further  shelter  by  affixing  branches  of  evergreens  on 
the  windy  side.  The  latter  can  be  removed  when  the  rows  are  fully 
established,  and  the  weather  is  favourable  for  growth. 
If  dry  warm  weather  sets  in  at  the  time  of  flowering,  mulch  down 
each  side  of  the  rows  with  light  mani'.re,  and  afford  them  water  if 
necessary.  When  the  pods  begin  to  swell,  diluted  liquid  manure 
will  help  the  crop  considerably.— E.  D.  S. 
Eaising  Peas  Under  Glass. 
In  perusing  the  columns  of  your  valuable  paper  I  have  not  seen  a 
really  practical  plan  given  whereby  those  who  wish  to  have  early  Peas 
with  as  little  inconvenience  as  possible,  and  are  obliged  to  sow  indoors, 
