94 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER, 
February  2,  1899. 
NOTES  ON  ALPINE  FLOWERS. 
Sempeevivum  Laggeri. 
There  are  many  positions  in  which  the  Houseleeks  are  invaluable, 
and  their  worth  is  not  properly  appreciated  by  those  who  are  imperfectly 
acquainted  with  the  variety  of  appearance  they  present.  There  are,  of 
Course,  many  very  much  alike,  but  a  large  number  are  dissimilar.  In  hot 
dry  positions  they  are  quite  at  home,  drought  having  apparently  no  power 
to  destroy  them.  Should  they  look  limp  and  shrivelled  for  a  time,  they 
soon  recover.  For  wall  or  roof  gardening  they  are  exceedingly  serviceable, 
and  on  perpendicular  rockwork  they  look  well  in  the  crevices. 
Among  the  Sempervivums  few  are  as  interesting  as  what  are  known  as 
the  Cobweb  Houseleeks.  They  are  so  called  because  of  the  silk-like 
tomentum  with  which  they  are  covered,  and  which,  in  dry  weather,  looks 
as  if  it  had  been  woven  by  a  spi4er.  It  is  remarkably  pretty,  and  well 
repays  close  inspection.  The  Houseleek  now  spoken  of — S.  Laggeri — 
IS,  botanically  speaking,  only  a  |  variety  of  S.  arachnoideum  ;  but,  for 
simplicity  sake,  the  usual  abbreviated  name  of  S.  Laggeri  is  here  used. 
It  is  larger  in  all  its  parts  than  the  small-sized  S.  arachnoideum,  and  is 
otmsequently  more  effective.  The  rosettes  in  dry  weather  are  quite  as 
white  as  the  Edelweiss,  and  the  red  flowers  give  an  effective  contrast. 
No  compost  suits  the  Houseleek  better  than  a  mixture  of  clay,  cow 
manure,  and  lime  rubbish.  In  wet  districts  the  Cobweb  Houseleeks 
sometimes  decay  if  planted  on  the  level.  They  will  be  found  in  such 
places  to  thrive  better  if  planted  on  the  face  of  a  wall  or  rockwork, 
exposed  to  the  sun.  The  smallest  modicum  of  soil  to  start 
with  will  suffice  to  establish  a  rosette  or  two,  and  will  not  require  to 
be  added  to  as  the  plant  increases  in  size.  A  small  hole  made  in  the 
mwtar  of  a  wall  and  filled  with  the  compost  recommended,  will  afford 
a  home  for  this  desirable  and  interesting  plant. 
Saxifraga  Salomoni. 
A  specialist  in  Saxifrages  has  his  work  cut  out  for  him  should  he 
endeavour  to  unravel  the  mysteries  of  their  nomenclature.  Seedlings 
seem  to  set  at  defiance  all  our  preconceived  ideas  regarding  species,  and 
give  us  room  for  doubt,  to  say  nothing  of  a  stronger  word.  Thus,  though 
wo  are  told  that  the  pretty  little  Rockfoil  under  notice  is  a  hybrid 
between  S.  Rocheliana  and  S.  Burseriana,  one  would  require  to  know 
more  about  the  manner  in  which  the  cross  w'as  effected  than  is  at  present 
at  our  command  before  we  can  accept  the  statement.  However  this  may’ 
be,  this  Saxifrage  is  an  acquisition,  and  is  worthy  of  wider  growth  than 
at  present.  The  little  rosettes  are  rather  like  those  of  S.  Burseriana, 
but  softer-looking  and  greener  in  colour.  The  flowers,  which  are  white,' 
hai^  more  substance  than  those  of  the  greater  number  of  the  forms  of 
S.  Burseriana,  and  are  almost  intermediate  in  size  between  those  of  what 
we  know  as  the  type  of  that  Rockfoil  and  those  of  S.  B.  major. 
So  far  as  his  own  garden  is  concerned,  and  in  the  few  other  places  the 
with  it,  S.  Salomoni  does  not  appear  to  have  the  failing 
which  so  militates  against  the  usefulness  of  S.  Burseriana.  This,  as  is 
pretty  well  known,  is  that  it  dies  off  from  the  centre  when  it  attains  a 
moderate  size.  S.  Salomoni  is  not  yet  plentiful,  but  is  offered  for  sale 
by  some  nurserymen.  It  is  increased  by  division. 
Saxifraga  ceratophylla. 
Recognised  as  a  variety  of  S.  trifurcata,  the  Horn-leaved  Rockfoil  may 
he  conveniently  spoken  of  under  its  garden  name.  It  is  a  plant  which 
gives  much  pleasure  in  winter,  when  its  leaves  are  of  brightest  green,  as 
well  as  in  early  summer,  when  its  large  white  flowers  are  upraised  above 
the  foliage.  ‘ 
^  According  to  the  soil  S.  ceratophylla  grows  from  about  3  to  8  or 
9  inches  high.  It  forms  large  tufts  of  deeply  parted  leaves,  which  look 
remarkably  pretty.  The  flowers  are  very  freely  produced  in  panicles, 
and  are  of  almost  snowy  whiteness.  It  comes  from  Spain,  and  may  be 
propagated  by  division  or  seed.  In  moist  weather  a  “  branch  ”  taken 
off  with  the  old  stem  attached,  and  put  an  inch  or  two  into  the  ground, 
roots  readily’.  The  Horn-leaved  Rockfoil  will  thrive  either  in  sun  or 
shade,  but  like  a  good  many  of  the  Saxifrages — is  the  better  of  being 
renewed  occasionally  by  propagation.  In  some  gardens  it  dies  off  in  a 
manner  not  unlike  S.  Burseriana.  This  distinct  large  flowered  and 
leaved  Saxifrage  should  not  be  omitted  from  collections  of  Alpine  flowers. 
Erythronium  Haetvyegi. 
space  available  may  suffice  for  a  short  notice  of  the  earliest 
XT  *  u  Tooth  Violets — Erythronium  Hartwegi.  It  is  a  native  of 
North-West  America,  and  comes  into  flower  with  us  about  February’. 
Newly  purchased  roots  may  bloom  earlier,  but,  when  established,  early  in 
the  month  named  is  its  usual  time.  There  are  more  attractive  Dog’s 
Tooth  Violets,  but  its  creamy-white  or  yellow  flowers  and  mottled  leaves 
seldom  fa,il  to  please.  It  ought  to  have  a  rather  dry  and  sunny  position. 
vVith  a  view  to  securing  flowers  of  more  substance  and  lasting  longer  in 
bloom,  the  writer  experimented  with  it  in  a  half-shaded  position  with  dis¬ 
appointing  results.  E.  Hartwegi  may  be  obtained  at  a  moderate  price 
from  those  in  the  trade. — Alpines. 
CTo  be  continued.) 
Primroses  in  January. — As  showing  the  mildness  of  the  weather 
during  January  and  the  preceding  month,  in  the  woods  here  Primroses 
are  bursting  into  flower.  On  the  1 9th  ult.  I  picked  several  fully  expanded 
blossoms.— E.  Molyneux. 
THE  YOUNG  GARDENERS’  DOMAIN. 
Gloxinias. 
These  useful  and  beautiful  plants  when  well  grown  fully  repay  all 
necessary  attention,  and  will  be  finely  proportioned,  carrying  deep  green 
foliage  and  abundance  of  flowers.  The  following  treatment  has  answered 
well.  Plants  raised  from  seeds  are  the  best,  and  sowing  should 
commence  early  in  January.  The  pans  must  be  drained  and  filled 
with  a  compost  of  fibrous  loam  and  leaf  mould  in  equal  parts,  with  a 
liberal  sprinkling  of  sharp  sand.  Peat  should  not  be  used,  or  the  surface 
may  become  covered  w  ith  a  green  moss,  which  is  fatal  to  the  roots  of 
seedlings.  The  pots,  covered  with  glass,  should  be  placed  in  a  warm 
house,  and  immediately  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  handle  they  ought 
to  be  transplanted  into  other  receptacles,  using  the  same  compost  as 
before.  If  care  be  exercised  in  the  moving  and  the  soil  is  in  proper  condi¬ 
tion  the  roots  soon  take  hold,  and  the  seedlings  thrive,  and  must  eventually 
be  potted  singly  in  well  drained  3  inch  pots.  After  this  stage  is  reached 
a  good  place  lor  them  is  the  shelf  in  a  Cucumber  house  close  to 
the  glass,  and  they  demand  careful  watering.  If  convenient  allow  them 
to  remain  in  this  position  until  they  show  flower,  and  then  remove  them 
to  a  close  pit  until  the  flowers  open.  The  grower  will  find  it  an 
advantage  to  flower  the  plants  the  first  year,  as  he  will  know  what  he  is 
growing,  and  can  discard  worthless  and  inferior  varieties. 
After  flowering  the  supply  of  water  must  be  gradually  lessened,  not 
drying  suddenly,  as  that  is  the  time  the  tuber  is  perfecting  itself  for  the 
following  season.  When  thoroughly  dried,  which  will  be  in  the  early 
autumn,  they  should  be  removed  to  a  shelf  where  they’  do  not  receive 
water,  but  where  atmospheric  moisture  is  afforded,  the  main  object  being 
to  keep  the  tubers  plump.  Early  in  January  the  potting  must  be  done 
and  a  little  stronger  compost  may  be  used — viz.,  two  parts  of  fresh  fibrous 
loam,  one  and  a  half  of  decayed  cow  manure,  one  part^of  leaf  mould,  with 
an  addition  of  sharp  sand,  placing  the  tubers  in  the  same  sized  pots  they 
previously  occupied.  They  should  then  be  placed  in  brisk  heat  until  they 
begin  to  break  freely’,  when  they  will  soon  require  a  shilt  into  5  and  6-incb 
pots.  Place  them  back  for  a  few  days,  and  afterwards  transfer  to  an  inter¬ 
mediate  house,  keeping  well  up  to  the  light  As  soon  as  they  have  filled 
these  pots  with  roots,  they  will  require  one  more  shift  into  their  blooming 
pots,  using  the  same  compost  as  previously  advocated.  By  this  simple 
mode  of  culture  they  grow  luxuriantly,  with  foliage  covering  the  pots,  and 
flowers  of  size,  substance,  and  colour. — Interested. 
The  Fig. 
{Gontinmd  from  page  73.) 
Turning  to  the  permanent  trees,  if  ripe  fruit  be  desired  during  the 
early  part  of  May,  a  start  should  be  made  at  the  commencement  of  the 
year,  giving  a  temperature  of  45°  by  night  and  50°  by  day’,  with  a  rise  of  5° 
at  the  end  of  ten  days,  and  when  at  the  latter  temperature,  syringe  the 
trees  at  midday  in  bright  weather,  using  tepid  water — this  will  assist  an 
even  breik.  At  the  close  of  the  first  month  the  young  growths  will  be 
coming,  when  a  temperature  of  55°  by  night  and  60°  by  day  should  be 
given.  Endeavour  must  bo  made  to  keep  the  atmosphere  of  the  house  a 
genial  one,  care  being  taken  in  air-giving,  allowing  the  temperature 
to  reach  its  maximum,  ihen  admitting  a  little  by  means  of  the  top  venti¬ 
lator,  closing  the  house  sufficiently  early  to  make  the  best  possible  use  of 
sun  heat. 
About  the  middle  of  February  the  young  fruit  will  be  swelling,  and  a 
further  rise  of  5°  should  be  allowed.  As  growth  advances  stopping  must 
be  resorted  to,  pinching  the  points  of  those  shoots  which  have  four  or  five 
good  leaves,  and  these  again  breaking,  will  give  the  successional  crops  of 
fruit.  The  shoots  will  require  tying  down,  but  do  not  do  this  too  tightly, 
but  allow  room  for  further  development  of  the  young  wood.  In  carrying 
out  this  work  try  to  get  all  leaves  clear  of  the  glass,  or  those  touching  it 
may  be  scorched  on  bright  sunny  dayr.  Maintain  a  clean  healthy  growth 
by  careful  but  thorough  sy  ringings,  both  in  the  morning  and  at  closing 
time,  the  latter  being  performed  sufficiently  early,  that  all  may  be  dry  ere 
night  sets  in.  If  syringing  is  not  properly  done,  red  spider  soon  makes 
its  appearance,  and  will  prove  very  detrimental  to  the  tree. 
When  the  fruit  commences  the  second  swelling,  which,  if  grown  as 
advised,  should  be  about  the  middle  of  April,  allow  the  night  temperature 
to  range  about  70°,  by  day  80°  or  even  85°,  before  admitting  air.  Admit 
air  gradually  until  the  maximum  is  reached,  as,  if  given  thoughtlessly,  a 
wholesale  crippling  of  the  young  tender  shoots  may  take  place.  I  have 
heard  and  read  of  shading  being  used  for  Figs,  but  have  had  no  personal 
experience  in  its  use.  I  have  seen  our  Figs  stand  the  hottest  summer  sun 
without  it,  and  they  have  not  been  injured  in  the  slightest.  Scorching  of 
the  leaves  is,  I  believe,  more  the  fault  of  careless  ventilation  than  other¬ 
wise.  During  the  growing  season,  never  allow  the  border  to  approach 
dryness.  It  is  really  astonishing  the  amount  which  is  taken  up  by 
healthy’  vigorous  Figs  during  a  season  of  growth.  1  do  not  mean  give  a. 
little  and  often,  this  is  bad  practice,  but  apply  sufficient  at  each  watering 
to  thoroughly  wet  every  particle  of  the  soil,  and  from  their  restricted 
position  this  is  soon  appropriated  by  the  roots. 
As  the  Fig  is  a  gross  feeder  the  plants  must  have  stimulants,  and 
there  are  so  many  good  special  manures  nowadays  that  it  is  difficult  to 
advise  one  above  another  ;  at  the  same  time  the  Fig  will  be  found  to- 
relish  feeding  from  the  “old-fashioned”  liquid  farmyard  manure.  As 
ripeness  approaches  discontinue  feeding  until  the  first  crop  is  gathered.. 
More  air  may  now  be  admitted,  and  syringings  should  cease  for  the 
time,  keeping  moisture  about  by  frequently  damping  the  walls  and  floor. 
If  required  for  immediate  use  on  the  dinner  table,  allow  the  fruit  to 
droop  somewhat,  gathering  just  as  a  drop  of  the  juice  is  observed  in  the 
eye,  but  for  travelling  gather  slightly  before  this  stage.  In  packing  Figs. 
