February  2,  1899. 
95 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
use  shallow  boxes,  lining  witli  wadding  or  some  soft  material ;  wrap  each 
fruit  separately  in  either  solt  leaves  or  tissue  paper,  and  over  this  either 
wadding  or  fine  wood  wool.  Place  a  single  layer  in  the  box,  and  fill  all 
crevices  between  the  fruit  with  the  same  kind  of  material  as  used  for 
wrapping,  placing  a  layer  of  wadding  over  all. 
The  first  crop  over,  encourage  the  successional  ones  by  growing  as 
previously  advised.  During  the  period  of  ripeness  red  spider  may  have 
made  its  appearance,  in  which  case  syringe  heavily  for  a  few  days. 
Wasps  anu  bluebottle  flies  may  be  found  very  troublesome  in  the  autumn 
months,  and  means  should  be  taken  for  their  eradication,  as  if  left  un¬ 
molested  a  whole  house  of  ripe  fruit  is  soon  totally  ruined.  As  the 
•autumn  months  advance  gradually  allow  the  trees  to  go  to  rest,  after 
which  preparations  are  made  for  another  year’s  work, — Sempeb. 
HARDY  FRUIT  GARDEN. 
Apricots. — As  these  are  the  first  trees  to  bloom  in  spring  the  necessary 
pruning,  cleansing,  and  tying-in  should  be  completed  as  early  as  possible. 
It  is  usual  to  detach  all  the  younger  wood  from  the  wall  early  in  December 
for  the  purpose  of  retarding  the  buds  and  to  complete  the  ripening.  The 
branches  may  now  be  unfastened,  which  will  facilitate  the  operation  of 
removing  worn-out  and  useless  wood.  Apricots  are  much  subject  to  losing 
branches  by  gumming  and  other  causes.  .  When  affected  in  this  way  it  is 
desirable  that  they  be  removed,  thus  giving  an  opportunity  to  re-arrange 
the  whole  trees,  laying  in,  and  disposing  the  wood  to  the  best  advantage. 
Apricots  bear  both  on  spurs  and  young  ripened  shoots.  Natural 
spurs  are  formed  more  freely  on  Apricots  than  on  Peaches  and  Nectarines, 
while  artificial  spurs  may  be  produced  wherever  desirable  by  shortening 
shoots  that  cannot  easily  and  profitably  be  laid  in.  Having  pruned  out 
all  superfluous  wood,  shorten  the  young  shoots  to  either  a  triple  bud  or  a 
wood  bud.  Dispose  the  main  branches  in  position,  afterwards  the 
secondary  branches,  and  finally  the  bearing  wood,  the  latter  about 
4  inches  between  each  shoot,  which  ought,  as  far  as  possible,  to  originate 
from  the  upper  side  of  the  branches.  Well  wash  the  walls  and  trees 
with  an  insecticide  before  re-arranging  the  branches.  In  painting  the 
young  shoots  with  the  mixture  due  care  must  be  taken  to  work  the  brush 
upwards  so  as  not  to  dislocate  the  buds. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — The  pruning,  cleansing,  and  re-arrangement 
of  these  should  be  dealt  with  next.  The  best  fruit  being  borne  on  young 
wood,  the  aim  in  pruning  must  be  to  retain  all  the  medium-sized,  well- 
ripened  shoots.  Cut  out  weak  and  over-sappy  shoots  —  the  latter 
especially — starting  from  main  branches.  Partially  worn-out  branches 
ought  to  be  removed,  as  well  as  weak  wood  wherever  situated.  It  is 
seldom  necessary  or  desirable  to  form  artificial  spurs  on  Peaches  and 
Nectarines,  though  such  will  bear  fruit  readily.  Thin  out  the  young 
shoots  to  about  4  inches  apart,  retaining  those  of  medium  strength  and 
well-ripened  condition.  Dress  the  walls,  branches,  and  young  wood  with 
an  insecticide,  any  of  the  numerous  advertised  compounds  being  effectual, 
though  one  formed  of  softsoap  and  sulphur  is  excellent  ;  3  ozs.  of  soft- 
soap  dissolved  in  a  gallon  of  water,  mixing  a  handful  of  sulphur  into  a 
paste  and  then  adding  to  the  above,  will  give  a  good  insecticide.  Some 
prefer  to  thicken  it  with  clay,  soot,  and  cow  manure,  applying  it  with  a 
brush  to  the  trees,  but  avoid  injury  to  the  buds  on  the  young  shoots  by 
brushing  upwards  carefully. 
In  the  final  nailing-in  of  the  young  wood  prune  the  shoots  back  to 
wood  buds  or  triple  buds,  one  of  which  is  a  wood  bud.  If  pruned  to 
flower  buds  only  there  will  be  no  growth  for  drawing  sap  to  the  fruit. 
Superfluous  growths  which  have  to  be  dispensed  with  should  be  cut  out 
entirely,  or  only  sparingly  retained  to  form  spurs  by  shortening  back. 
Secure  all  wood  in  a  straight  direction  if  this  can  be  done  readily. 
Liquid  Manure  for  Fruit  Trees. — There  is  no  better  way  of  adding 
to  the  fertility  of  the  soil  in  which  large  old  fruit  trees  are  growing,  and 
which  require  assistance,  than  frequent  applications  of  liquid  manure 
from  cesspools  and  tanks.  The  soil  in  most  districts  is  now  in  a  thoroughly 
moist  condition,  and  liquid  manure  if  applied  will  permeate  down  to  the 
lowest  roots,  which  will  receive  benefit  as  well  as  those  in  the  upper 
stratum  of  soil.  Liquid  manure  contains  plant  food  in  solution,  and  the 
value  of  rich  material  of  this  kind  stored  in  the  soil  for  the  future  use  of 
the  roots  is  exceedingly  great.  The  liquid  should  be  applied  over  the 
whole  area  of  soil  covered  by  the  branches.  It  may  be  given  freely  to  all 
trees  which  have  previously  borne  good  crops,  and  hence  need  assistance 
to  sustain  them  for  future  effort. 
Weakly  growing  trees  will  be  stimulated  by  a  copious  soaking  of 
liquid  manure  into  making  better  growth,  and  plumping  insufficiently 
fed  fruit  buds.  Trees  on  grass  suffer  from  exhaustion  by  reason  of  the 
grass  largely  abstracting  food  which  is  not  replaced  except  by  heavy 
manurial  dressings  either  of  liquid  or  solid  material.  The  best  manner 
of  applying  liquid  manure  on  grass  land  is  to  make  holes  with  a  crowbar 
to  a  considerable  depth,  repeatedly  filling  them  up  with  liquid  until  the 
soil  is  well  saturated.  When  finished  the  holes  may  be  filled  in  with 
manure  and  loam.  In  addition  to  filling  the  holes  with  liquid  the  latter 
may  be  poured  freely  on  the  surface. 
Bush  fruits,  including  Currants,  Gooseberries,  and  Raspberries,  much 
appreciate  the  rich  fare  contained  in  liquid  manure,  and  it  may  be  applied 
freely  to  well-established  bushes,  either  previous  to  or  after  a  mulching 
of  manure.  The  fibrous  roots  of  these  small  fruits  appropriate  large 
quantities  of  food,  and  it  is  profitable  to  treat  them  liberally  when  in  a 
good  fruiting  condition. 
Young  trees  when  planted  in  well-prepared  and  rich  soil  grow'  freely 
enough,  and  should  not  have  an  application  ;  but  weakly  bushes  in  poor 
soil  would  certainly  be  benefited. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — The  trees  started  in 
December,  and  having  set  the  fruit,  should  be  syringed  in  the  morning 
and  afternoon  of  fine  days  to  keep  red  spider  in  check,  but  an  occasional 
syringing  sufiSces  in  dull  weather,  damping  the  paths  and  borders  instead 
of  the  trees,  so  as  to  maintain  a  genial  atmosphere.  Applications  of  liquid 
manure  will  assist  the  fruit  in  swelling,  especially  that  on  trees  long 
subjected  to  forcing.  Vigorous  trees  will  not  require  any  stimulants, 
excessive  vigour  being  unfavourable  to  the  fruit  safely  passing  the 
stoning  process.  Proceed  with  the  thinning  of  the  fruit,  removing  a  few 
fruits  only  at  a  time,  those  badly  placed  first.  Follow  up  disbudding, 
leaving  a  growth  at  the  base  of  each  bearing  branch  or  last  year's  wood 
and  another  at  its  extremity,  or  at  a  level  with  the  fruit.  The  shoots 
retained  for  attracting  the  sap  to  the  fruit  should  be  stopped  at  the  second 
or  third  leaf  unless  they  are  extensions,  but  the  basal  growths  must  be 
trained-in  to  take  the  place  of  those  bearing  fruit.  Shoots  upon  extensions 
may  be  left  at  12  to  15  inches  distance  apart  to  form  the  bearing  shoots 
of  the  future.  The  night  temperature  may  range  from  55°  to  60°,  and  60° 
to  65°  by  day,  with  an  advance  to  70°  or  75°  from  sun  heat.  It  is  better, 
however,  to  seek  advancement  from  sun  heat  than  to  push  the  trees  in 
sunless  weather.  Ventilate  on  all  favourable  occasions  liberally,  and  avoid 
a  close,  stagnant  atmosphere  at  all  times,  leaving  a  little  air  on  constantly  ; 
but  cold  draughts  are  pernicious,  and  aridity  favours  insect  pests. 
Second  Early  House. — Trees  started  at  the  new  year  will  he  in  blossom, 
and  should  have  a  temperature  of  50°,  45°  or  even  40°  on  very  cold  nights, 
50°  to  55°  by  day  artificially,  and  60°  to  65°  from  sun  heat,  not  allowing  a 
rise  above  65°  without  full  ventilation.  Lose  no  opportunity  of  admitting 
air,  ventilating  from  50°,  avoiding,  however,  cold  currents,  and  leave  a 
little  ventilation  constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house.  Damp  the  paths  and 
other  surfaces  occasionally  to  secure  a  genial  atmosphere,  but  avoid  a 
close  saturated  one.  Shake  the  trees  on  fine  mornings  to  disperse  the 
pollen,  or  brush  the  blossoms  over  lightly  with  a  rabbit’s  tail  mounted 
on  a  small  stick,  or  apply  the  pollen  to  the  stigma  with  a  camel-hair  brush. 
Houses  Started  Early  in  February. — The  trees  to  afford  ripe  fruit  in 
July  must  now  be  started,  they  having  commenced  to  swell  their  buds 
naturally.  Syringe  the  trees  occasionally  until  the  blossom  buds  show 
colour,  when  it  should  be  discontinued,  but  sprinkle  the  paths  and  borders 
once  or  twice  a  day  to  maintain  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere, 
avoiding  a  close,  stagnant  one.  If  the  flowers  are  very  numerous  thin 
them  by  rubbing  the  hand  downwards  on  the  under  side  of  the  shoots, 
which  will  strengthen  the  remainder,  enabling  them  to  set  better. 
Examine  the  trees  closely,  and  if  there  be  any  aphides,  fumigate  with 
tobacco  or  vaporise  with  nicotine,  so  as  to  destroy  them  before  the  flowers 
expand.  Maintain  a  temperature  of  40°  to  45°  at  night,  and  50°  by  day, 
above  which  ventilate  freely.  When  the  flowers  expand  raise  the  tempe¬ 
rature  to  50°  at  night,  55°  by  day,  and  60®  to  65®  from  sun  heat  with  free 
ventilation.  On  cold  nights  the  temperature  may  fall  to  45°,  or  even  less, 
also  50°  by  day,  allowing  a  little  ventilation  constantly  at  the  top  of  the 
house. 
Later  Houses. — Admit  air  freely  so  as  to  retard  the  blossoming,  especi¬ 
ally  in  the  case  of  unheated  houses,  which  are  liable  to  suffer  from  spring 
frosts.  See  that  borders  have  water  if  needed.  If  the  roof-lights  have 
been  removed  they  need  not  be  replaced  until  the  buds  are  advanced  in 
swelling  ;  they  are  quite  safe  for  another  month  or  more,  or  until  the 
blossoms  show  colour. 
Pines. — Fruiting  Plants  and  Starters. — The  specially  prepared  plants 
for  early  summer  fruiting  will  now  be  throwing  up  fruit,  and  should  have 
a  mean  temperature  of  70°,  varying  it  5°  according  to  the  weather, 
admitting  air  at  80°  with  sunshine,  but  not  lowering  the  temperature, 
allowing  it  to  rise  to  85°,  closing  between  that  and  80°,  and  if  it  rise 
somewhat  after  closing  it  will  be  an  advantage  rather  than  otherwise. 
When  the  suckers  are  large  enough  to  handle,  all  except  one  to  each  plant 
must  have  the  growth  checked  by  taking  out  the  centres. 
Successional  Plants. — To  supplement  the  autumn-potted  plants,  select 
others  which  have  been  wintered  in  7  or  8-inch  pots,  choosing  the  most 
vigorous.  Those  remaining  may  be  reserved  until  the  general  spring 
potting,  when  they  can  be  shaken  out  and  treated  similarly  to  sucker.s. 
For  those  now  to  be  potted  good  fibrous  loam,  with  the  turf  well  reduced, 
placed  under  cover  to  become  dried,  is  a  suitable  compost.  Drain  the  pots 
well,  dust  soot  or  dry  wood  ashes  over  the  crocks  to  exclude  worms,  and 
ram  the  soil  firmly  round  the  plants,  keeping  them  well  down  in  the  pots 
to  admit  of  copious  supplies  of  water  being  given  when  necessary  ; 
10-inch  pots  are  suitable  for  Queens,  and  11  or  12-inch  for  those  of  more 
robust  growth.  A  temperature  of  60°  to  65°  will  be  sufficient  for  these 
plants,  also  for  those  potted  last  autumn,  and  about  85°  bottom  heat. 
Plants  in  beds  about  to  bo  started  into  fruit  must  not  have  the  heat 
at  the  base  of  the  pots  over  90°  or  95°,  or  their  roots  will  be  injured.  If 
sufficient  fruit  be  started  to  meet  the  requirements,  later  successional 
plants  that  have  not  been  subjected  to  a  high  temperature  may  be 
advanced  slowly,  they  with  autumn-rooted  suckers  requiring  careful 
watering,  especially  where  the  heat  at  the  roots  is  supplied  by  fermenting 
materials. 
