February  9,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GAPH)ENER, 
115 
Melons. — In  a  Melon  house  a  ridge  the  whole  length  of  the  bed,  about 
2  feet  wide  at  the  base,  with  the  top  flattened  so  as  to  give  a  depth  of  10 
to  12  inches,  is  preferable  to  hillocks,  the  soil  being  made  firm.  When 
warm  the  plants  may  be  turned  out,  making  the  soil  moderately  firm  about 
the  roots  and  raising  it  a  little  higher  than  before,  but  not  nearer  than  half 
an  inch  of  the  seed  leaves.  The  plants  can  be  placed  about  2^  feet 
asunder,  the  leading  or  primary  shoots  being  taken  up  without  stopping 
until  fully  two-thirds  of  the  distance  they  are  intended  to  travel,  then 
pinch  out  the  point  of  each.  Some  varieties  will  show  fruit  on  the 
first  laterals  ;  and,  as  early  Melons  are  an  important  consideration, 
take  out  the  point  of  each  alternate  one,  the  other  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
leader  being  rubbed  off  whilst  quite  young  at  a  joint  above  the  fruit,  but 
not  until  fertilised  or  artificially  impregnated.  The  plants  will  require 
little  water  for  a  (time  ;  nevertheless,  maintain  the  soil  in  a  moist 
condition,  avoiding  anything  approaching  saturation.  Sprinkle  the 
paths  and  walls  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon.  Ventilate  very 
carefully,  avoiding  cold  currents  of  air.  and  keep  the  night  temperature  at 
70°,  65°  in  the  mor  ing,  or  even  60°  on  very  cold  nights,  70°  to  75°  by 
day,  rising  to  85°  or  90"'  from  sun  heat,  and  the  latter  to  95°,  or  even  100°, 
after  closing  ;  bottom  heat  to  be  kept  steady  at  85°. 
Vines. — Eai-Uest  in  Pots. — Vines  started  in  November  must  be  attended 
to,  thinning  directly  the  berries  are  set  and  removing  surplus  bunches 
early.  The  laterals  beyond  the  bunches  may  be  allowed  to  advance 
a  joint  or  two  at  each  development,  but  only  foliage  fully  exposed  to 
light  profits  the  Grapes.  Laterals  behind  the  bunches  should  be  closely 
stopped  or  removed  where  they  interfere  with  the  principal  leaves.  Top- 
dress  with  rich  compost  or  well-decayed  manure,  and  afford  liberal  supplies 
of  liquid  manure,  not  too  strong.  Where  the  pots  are  stood  on  brick 
pedestals  with  fermenting  materials  placed  round  tne  pots,  the  roots 
may  be  encouraged  to  extend  by  turves  placed  on  the  rims  so  as  to  form 
a  dish,  this  being  filled  with  rich  material,  and  the  roots,  coming  into  the 
fermenting  material,  gather  nourishment,  which  will  greatly  aid  the 
swelling  of  the  berries. 
Early  Houses. — Tie  the  shoots  down  carefully,  not  being  in  a  hurry  ; 
but  the  points  must  not  be  allowed  to  touch  the  glass.  Avoid  crowding 
by  leaving  those  growths  only  that  can  have  full  exposure  to  light,  stopping 
the  bearing  shoots  when  two  joints  are  made  beyond  the  show  for  fruit 
and  the  leaf  at  the  joint  is  the  size  of  a  halfpenny.  If  the  space  is  small 
stop  one  joint  beyond  the  bunch,  pinching  the  laterals  at  the  first  leaf, 
and  so  ou  as  made.  Where  there  is  room  the  bearing  shoots  may  have 
three  or  more  leaves  beyond  the  bunch.  The  better  foliage  a  shoot  has 
the  finer  will  be  the  Grapes,  Laterals  below  the  bunch  may  be  removed 
where  the  space  is  limited,  except  from  the  two  lowest  leaves,  pinching 
them  at  every  joint.  The  great  point  is  to  secure  well  developed  leaves 
fully  exposed  to  light. 
Fines  in  Flower. — The  night  temperature  should  be  65°,  and  70°  to  75° 
by  day  from  fire  heat,  the  air  of  the  house  being  kept  rather  dry.  Early 
Muscats  require  a  night  temperature  of  65°  to  70°,  advancing  10°  to  15° 
by  day,  closing  the  bouse  at  80°  to  85°  in  bright  weather.  When  in  flower 
every  bunch  should  have  a  large  flat  camePs-hair  brush  drawn  lightly  over 
it,  and  if  there  is  a  deficiency  of  pollen  that  of  Hamburghs  should  be  applied. 
Thinning  the  berries  must  commence  with  the  free-setting  varieties  as 
soon  as  they  are  formed,  but  if  the  Vines  are  inclined  to  produce  stoneless 
berries  thinning  should  be  deferred  until  those  properly  fertilised  take  the 
lead  in  swelling.  Remove  duplicate  bunches,  leaving  the  best  and  most 
compact,  always  avoiding  overcropping,  and  aiming  at  high  finish. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Broad  Beans, — Where  these  are  wanted  extra  early,  there  will  be  a 
considerable  gain  by  raising  plants  under  glass  to  form  rows  across  a 
south  border.  Sow  seeds  of  the  Early  Longpod  singly  in  3-inch  pots,  and 
place  in  gentle  heat  to  germinate.  Before  the  plants  become  drawn  and 
much  root-bound,  they  must  be  hardened,  and  the  first  favourable 
opportunity  taken  of  planting  out.  Afford  temporary  shelter  for  a  tew 
days  after  planting.  As  early  in  this  month  as  the  ground  is  found  to  be 
in  a  moderately  free  working  condition,  sow  seeds  of  the  variety  named  in 
rows  2  feet  apart.  If  room  on  a  warm  border  cannot  be  afforded  this 
crop,  it  may  be  relegated  to  a  sunny  open  spot,  a  slope  to  the  south 
answering  best. 
Early  Peas  — If  seeds  of  early  varieties  are  sown  now  in  boxes  or 
3-inch  pots,  placed  in  gentle  heat  to  germinate,  and  eventually  placed 
out  of  doors,  good  gatherings  will  be  afforded  earlier  than  any  rows 
obtained  by  sowing  seed  in  the  open  at  the  present  time.  Not  jmuch  is 
gained  by  sowing  in  the  open  ground  before  the  middle  of  February,  but 
if  the  soil  is  found  in  a  comparatively  dry,  free  working  condition,  a  week 
or  so  earlier,  it  is  well  to  sow  the  seed.  Only  the  hardier  round-seeded 
varieties  should  be  sown. 
Spinach. — Rows  of  August-sown  Spinach  have  already  done  good 
service,  the  mild  autumn  favouring  late  growth.  With  a  change  to 
warmer  weather  active  growth  will  recommence,  and  this  will  be  further 
promoted  if  soot  is  freely  sown  between  the  rows,  and  lightly  stirred  in 
with  a  Dutch  hoe.  The  first  favourable  opportunity  should  be  taken  of 
sowing  more  seed  on  a  rich  warm  border.  Much  the  finest  leaves  are 
produced  by  the  Victoria  or  Monstrous  Viroflay. 
Early  Carrots. — It  is  yet  too  early  to  sow  Carrot  seed  in  the  open,  but 
those  who  have  not  the  convenience  of  glazed  frames,  may  yet  have 
many  early  bunches  of  tender  roots  with  the  aid  of  a  mild  hotbed,  boards, 
and  rough  coverings  of  some  kind.  Six  inches  of  fine  light  soil  is  ample 
for  spreading  on  the  surface  of  the  manure,  and  by  sowing  the  Carrot 
seed,  either  Early  Horn  or  Nantes  Horn,  thinly  broadcast.  Lettuce, 
Radish,  and  Celery  seeds  may  accompany  it.  Cover  lightly  with  fine  soil, 
and  protect  with  either  straw  or  mats.  Lettuce  plants  to  be  transplanted, 
and  Radishes  pulled  early,  and  the  Celery  plants  to  be  drawn  when  large 
enough  to  prick  into  boxes,  the  Carrots  eventuaily  having  the  bed  to 
themselves  till  the  Vegetable  Marrow  plants,  raised  or  planted  in  the 
centre,  begin  to  ramble. 
Radishes. — Market  gardeners  succeed  in  raising  profitable  early  crops 
of  Radishes  without  the  aid  of  hotbeds  or  frames.  A  sunny  open  spot  is 
chosen  for  the  beds,  and  as  early  in  February  as  the  weather  and  the  state 
of  ground  permit  seeds  are  sown  either  broadcast  or  in  drills,  and  covered 
with  a  little  soil.  A  light  covering  of  strawy  litter  serves  to  protect  from 
both  cold  wind  and  birds,  and  when  the  seedlings  are  through  the  ground 
this  has  to  be  raked  off  every  morning,  returning  it  again  in  the  evening. 
More  seeds  should  be  sown  a  fortnight  later. 
Early  Turnips. — Late-sown  Turnips  had  good  time  to  attain  to  a 
serviceable  size,  and  the  roots,  therefore,  are  not  so  scarce  this  winter  as 
anticipated.  Whether  they  keep  well  or  not  a  supply  of  early  Turnips 
will  be  appreciated,  and  they  also  sell  well.  If  wanted  extra  early  sow 
the  seed  over  a  mild  hotbed,  and  protect  from  cold  winds  and  frosts 
either  with  glazed  lights  or  mats.  Early  Milan  is  the  best  type  for 
forcing,  and  also  for  sowing  in  the  open.  A  good  position  for  this  crop 
is  an  east  or  south-east  border  made  moderately  rich.  Sow  the  seed 
thinly  in  drills  1  foot  apart,  and  protect  with  litter  as  advised  in  the  case 
of  Radishes. 
How  Bees  are  Destrc'Yed. 
In  country  districts,  more  particularly  when  the  apiary  is  near  the 
woods,  numerous  bees  are  destroyed  during  the  early  spring  months 
by  the  birds.  The  common  house  sparrows  are  somewhat  trouble¬ 
some  in  this  respect,  as  they  take  the  bees  whilst  on  the  wing.  The 
losses  from  these,  however,  are  small  when  compared  with  that  pest 
of  bee-keepers  the  great  tit.  Directly,  the  days  begin  to  lengthen 
and  the  sun  is  gaining  power,  these  little  pests  turn  their  attention 
to  the  bee  hives.  If  there  are  no  live  bees  visible  they  appropriate 
those  that  have  been  turned  out  of  the  hive  and  which  have  died 
from  old  age  or  other  causes.  In  this  respect  they  are  useful 
scavengers.  They  are  not  satisfied,  however,  with  the  dead  and 
outcast  from  the  hives. 
The  birds  are  aware  of  the  fact  that  it  is  only  necessary  to  give  a 
few  successive  taps  at  the  entrance  of  the  hive  to  cause  the  bees 
(should  the  weather  tbe  warm  enough)  to  leave  their  hive.  Thus 
they  fly  from  one  alighting  board  to  the  other,  tapping  with  their 
beaks  as  they  alight.  The  first  bee  that  is  visible  is  at  once  seized 
and  taken  to  a  neighbouring  bush  and  dissected,  the  head  and  sting 
being  removed,  and  the  abdomen  consumed.  Only  a  few  seconds  is 
required  for  this  operation,  and  it  is  surprising  the  number  of  bees  a 
few  tits  will  destroy  in  the  course  of  an  hour  when  the  weather  is 
favourable.  It  is  only  when  there  is  a  fall  of  snow  and  it  remains  on 
the  ground  for  a  few  days  that  an  ordinary  observer  will  note  the 
mischief  that  is  being  done.  It  is,  however,  not  only  during  severe 
weather  that  this  death  rate  is  going  on,  as  it  is  quite  as  prevalent,  or 
even  more  so,  during  mild  days,  only  it  is  not  so  easily  detected. 
Destroying  Bee  Pests. 
We  are  convinced  that  it  is  the  large  tit  (Parus  major)  that  is  the 
greatest  culprit.  We  have  often  trapped  the  blue  tit  (Parus  coeruieus) 
on  the  alighting  boards  of  the  hives.  But  after  o oserving  their  habits 
on  many  occasions  we  have  come  to  the  conclusion  they  do  little  harm 
to  the  bees.  They  will  devour  them  quite  as  readily  as  the  great 
tit,  but  we  have  not  observed  them  entice  the  bees  out.  We  destroy 
them  by  using  a  V-shaped  trap,  baited  with  bread  or  meat,  which  is  a 
very  simple  and  expeditious  way.  It  is  only  at  this  season,  or  as  long 
as  they  pay  close  attention  to  the  hives  and  their  inmates,  that  we 
trap  them,  as  they  doubtless  do  a  great  amount  of  good  at  other 
seasons,  and  their  nests  are  not  interfered  with. 
Mice,  too,  are  often  troublesome,  but  in  a  different  manner,  for  ir 
once  they  gain  an  entrance  to  a  hive  they  usually  take  up  their 
winter  quarters  there.  The  bees  being  closely  clustered  together  in 
the  hive,  are  not  interfered  with  until  the  mice  have  consumed  their 
stores  and  destroyed  the  combs,  when  they  die  of  starvation.  In 
some  districts  mice  are  very  troublesome  in  this  respect,  and  it  is  an 
advantage  to  always  have  some  baited  traps  near  the  hives  throughout 
the  winter,  as  mice  will  travel  a  long  distance  for  food,  and  they  are 
easily  caught  by  using  similar  traps  to  those  recommended  for  the 
tits.’ 
It  is  an  advantage  to  have  the  entrance  to  the  hives  made  not 
more  than  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  depth.  This  Avill  allow  ample 
room  for  the  bees  to  pass,  and  the  mice  wdll  not  be  able  to  gain 
admittance.  If  straw  skeps  are  used  the  entrance  is  usually  large,  and 
the  mice  can  thus  pass  in  readily,  unless  means  are  taken  to  prevent 
them.  If  a  piece  of  fzinc  is  fastened  over  the  entrance,  and  two  or 
three  small  holes  are  cut  at  the  bottom,  so  that  the  bees  can  pass 
through,  all  will  be  well. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
