February  16,  1899. 
JOURKAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
135 
roots.  It  is  rather  early  yet  to  give  the  spring  mulching.  Recently 
planted  beds  require  occasional  hoeing  between  the  plants.  If  any  plants 
have  become  loosened  make  them  firm  again  in  the  soil. 
Ground  may  be  prepared  for  new  plantations,  choosing  a  situation  not 
previously  occupied  with  Strawberries.  Dig  deeply,  preferably  double¬ 
digging  the  site,  and  add  good  decomposed  manure  in  liberal  quantity  to 
light  soil.  Heavy  soil  is  more  benefited  by  thorough  breaking  up  and 
deeply  working  than  shallow  cultivation,  even  if  manure  is  freely 
employed.  The  preparation  of  the  soil  should  precede  planting  by 
several  weeks,  in  order  that  the  freshly  moved  ground  may  have  time  to 
become  consolidated,  as  Strawberries  prefer  firm  ground  in  which  to  root. 
Plants  from  nursery  beds  formed  in  the  autumn  are  the  best  for  spring 
planting,  which  ought  not  to  be  delayed  beyond  the  middle  of  March, 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Peaches  and  Nectarines. — Earliest  House. — Where  the  shoots  reserved 
at  the  base  of  the  present  bearing  wood  are  sufficiently  advanced,  they 
should  be  tied  down,  so  as  to  give  them  the  desired  inclination,  taking 
care  not  to’bring  them  too  sharply  to  the  branches,  nor  endeavour  to 
tie  them  until  they  are  sufficiently  advanced  to  allow  of  the  operation 
being  performed  without  snapping  off  their  points.  The  terminal 
growths  of  leading  branches  should  be  trained  in  their  full  length,  pinch¬ 
ing  the  laterals  to  one  leaf  as  produced.  Growths  for  furnishing  branches 
also  require  to  be  trained  in  without  stopping,  tying  and  regulating 
them  as  they  advance,  in  doing  which  leave  plenty  of  room  for 
swelling.  In  laying-in  young  growths  from  extension  branches,  allow  a 
distance  of  12  to  15  inches  between  them,  and  about  6  inches  between  the 
shoots,  so  that  the  foliage  will  receive  plenty  of  light  and  air.  Shoots 
retained  to  attract  the  sap  to  the  fruit  must  be  kept  closely  pinched  to  one 
leaf  after  they  have  previously  been  stopped  at  the  third  joint  or  to  that 
with  a  good  leaf. 
Make  an  examination  of  the  border  every  fortnight  or  three  weeks, 
not  being  deceived  by  the  surface  looking  wet  from  syringing,  and  supply 
water  or  liquid  manure  to  weakly  trees  thoroughly,  wheneverjrequired. 
This  procedure  is  better  than  having  stated  times  for  watering,  for 
needless  supplies  of  either  water  or  liquid  manure  only  tend  to  make  the 
soil  sodden  and  sour,  while  neglect  of  affording  moisture  retards  growth 
and  favours  attacks  of  red  spider.  Syringe  the  trees  in  the  morning  and 
afternoon  to  keep  this  pest  in  subjection,  and  for  it  and  aphides  apply  an 
insecticide,  'petroleum  emulsion  properly  diluted  being  effective  and  safe. 
The  temperature  should  b^  maintained  at  60°  to  6.5°  by  artificial  means,  a 
tall  to  55°  on  cold  aiornings  being  much  better  for  the  trees  than  sharp 
firing,  which  only  induces  attenuated  growths  and  favours  insects. 
Trees  Started  at  the  Netv  Year. — These  will  now  require  attention  in 
disbudding,  doing  it  gradually,  removing  the  strongest  and  ill-placed, 
retaining  a  good  growth  at  the  base  of  each  current  bearing  branch,  and 
a  shoot  on  a  level  with  or  above  the  fruit.  Thinning  the  fruits  must  also 
be  attended  to  where  too  thick  by  first  removing  the  smaller  and  those  on 
the  under  side  of  the  branches,  but  avoid  wholesale  thinning  and  dis¬ 
budding,  proceeding  on  the  principle  of  a  little  and  often.  A  temperature 
of  55°  at  night  in  cold  weather.  60°  when  mild,  60°  to  65°  by  day  arti¬ 
ficially,  advancing  to  70°  to  75°  from  sun  heat,  and  free  ventilation  from 
65°.  Syringing  the  trees  must  be  practised  morning  and  afternoon, 
except  when  the  weather  is  dull,  when  an  occasional  syringing  and 
damping  of  the  paths  and  borders  in  the  morning  and  early  afternoon 
will  be  sufficient. 
Houses  Started  at  the  Beginning  of  February. — The  trees  are  coming 
into  blossom,  and  must  not  be  syringed  after  the  anthers  show  clear  of 
the  corolla,  but  sprinkle  the  floor  and  border  every  morning  and  after¬ 
noon  when  bright,  occasionally  only  when  dull.  Avoid  cold  currents  of 
air,  yet  ventilate  early  and  freely  on  all  favourable  occasions.  Maintain 
a  temperature  of  50°  at  night,  55°  by  day,  advancing  to  65°  or  more  from 
sun  heat,  but  not  without  full  ventilation.  Leave  a  little  ventilation 
constantly  at  the  top  of  the  house,  and  enlarge  the  opening  on  dull  days 
so  as  to  insure  a  change  of  air,  keeping  the  atmosphere  buoyant,  for  a 
stagnant  condition  of  the  air  of  the  house  is  fatal  to  a  good  set  of  fruit. 
Attend  to  fertilisation  when  the  blossoms  are  fully  expanded  and  the 
pollen  is  ripe  by  shaking  the  trees,  or  dusting  with  a  rabbit’s  tail  mounted 
on  a  small  stick,  or  a  camel's-hair  brush.  , 
Trees  to  Afford  Fruit  in  July  or  Early  August. — The  house  for  this 
purpose  should  be  started  early  in  March,  there  not  being  any  need  to 
close  the  house  ;  but  give  air  fully  day  and  night,  except  when  frost 
prevails,  to  prevent  the  trees  being  brought  on  too  rapidly.  Nothing, 
however,  is  gained  by  striving  to  retard  the  trees  at  the  blossoming  stage, 
but  everything  may  be  lost  as  regards  a  crop  by  failing  to  attend  to  the 
conditions  essential  to  a  good  set  of  fruit.  These  are  ceasing  syringing 
after  the  anthers  appear,  and  only  a  moderate  air  moisture  for  the  proper 
development  of  the  blossoms— a  temperature  of  50°  by  day,  advancing  to 
65°  with  abundant  ventilation,  and  40°  to  45°  at  night  with  enough  air  to 
prevent  the  atmosphere  becoming  stagnant.  If  there  be  a  plentiful  show 
of  blossom  remove  those  on  the  under  side  of  the  trellis  or  the  back  by 
drawing  the  hand  the  reverse  way  of  the  growth. 
Late  Houses. — The  buds  in  these  are  much  too  forward  where  the  roof- 
lights  are  fixed,  there  being  quite  a  fortnight’s  difference  between  them 
and  those  which  have  been  exposed  since  the  fall  of  the  leaf.  All  pruning 
and  readjustment  of  the  trees  on  the  trellises  must  be  completed  without 
delay.  Where  the  lights  are  off  they  need  not  be  replaced  until  the  buds 
show  colour.  In  other  cases  ventilate  freely,  merely  excluding  frost,  or 
not  that,  as  the  buds  take  no  barm  until  they  are  swelled  so  as  to  show 
pink  or  red.  The  pruning  must  be  completed  in  the  case  of  trees  in 
unheated  houses  before  the  buds  are  much  advanced  and  swelling,  and 
they  cannot  be  kept  too  cool,  as  late  blossoming  is  an  important  matter, 
the  spring  frosts  and  dull  weather  at  the  time  of  setting  often  proving 
disastrous  to  the  crop.  Indeed,  unheated  houses  are  not  advisable,  espe¬ 
cially  in  cold  localities.  Fixed  roof-lights  are  a  still  greater  mistake,  as 
the  blossoms  come  on  too  rapidly  in  seasons  like  this,  and  they  often  have 
to  struggle  with  a  close,  moist,  cold  atmosphere  when  they  should  be 
setting.  A  little  heat  during  flowering  does  much  towards  insuring  a  good 
set,  and  in;  ate  summer  a  gentle  artificial  warmth  does  much  in  ripening 
the  fruit  and  maturing  the  wood.  Examine  the  borders,  making  sure 
that  there  is  no  lack  of  moisture.  If  the  soil  has  left  the  walls  loosen 
it  with  a  fork,  and  close  the  interstices  so  as  to  make  the  water  go  through 
all  parts  of  the  borders,  and  thoroughly  moisten  them  from  the  surface 
down  to  the  drainage. 
-J.  . 1  ■-rTZi 
HE  BEE-KEEPER. 
The  Weather. 
Bee-keepers  are  usually  close  observers  of  the  weather;  it  is, 
therefore,  interesting  to  compare  notes  with  those  who  may  be  more 
favourably  situated  in  other  parts  of  the  country.  In  this  district 
(South  Yorkshire)  the  changes  that  have  taken  place  in  the  weather 
during  the  first  month  of  the  year  have  been  many.  The  early  days 
of  January  were  exceptionally  mild,  the  bees  being  almost  daily  on 
the  wing.  Afterwards  high  winds  prevailed,  causing  disaster  to  the 
bees  owing  to  the  roofs  or  hives  being  blown  bodily  over.  Rain  and 
sleet  followed,  then  a  spell  of  tine  weather  and  a  high  temperature. 
Frost  afterwards  set  in,  12°  being  registered  two  nights  in  succession, 
and  again  a  rapid  change  to  rain.  Similar  weather  has  prevailed  up 
to  the  present  time — fine  mild  days,  rain,  frost,  and  snow.  It  having 
been  snowing  for  several  hours  the  whole  surface  j^of  the  ground  is 
at  the  moment  of  writing  covered  with  a  white  mantle.  This  will 
probably  disappear  as  rapidly  as  it  came,  as  the  sun  is  now  gaining 
power  daily. 
What  will  be  the  condition  of  the  bees  after  the  various  changes 
in  the  weather?  Will  they  have  commenced  breeding  at  this  early 
date  ?  After  a  wide  experience  of  bees  wintered  in  a  variety  of  hives, 
we  do  not  think  they  suffer  nearly  so  much  as  some  bee-keepers 
imagine  if  they  are  in  dry  and  well  ventilated  hives.  Strong  colonies 
in  favourable  situations  will  doubtless  have  commenced  breeding  if 
the  stock  is  headed  by  a  young  queen.  It  is,  however,  of  little 
advantage  to  the  bee-keeper  to  have  brood  thus  early  in  the  season,  as 
a  cold  spell  of  weather  may  set  in  at  any  time,  and  it  may  then 
become  chilled. 
Bees  if  not  handled  or  disturbed  during  the  winter  months,  and 
are  well  supplied  with  stores,  rarely  make  a  mistake  in  this  respect,  as 
the  brood  nest  will  not  be  enlarged  until  natural  pollen  can  be  obtained 
outside  the  hive.  Should  the  apiary  be  situated  in  a  district  where 
early  spring  flowers  are  scarce,  artificial  pollen  must  be  supplied 
to  them  ;  but  in  any  case  the  bees  may  be  depended  on  not  to  raise 
more  brood  during  the  early  spring  months  than  they  have  food  for. 
Hives. 
Whilst  on  the  subject  of  early  breeding,  it  may  be  an  advantage  to 
know  which  is  the  best  hive  for  wintering  purposes.  We  should  have 
no  hesitation  in  saying  there  is  nothing  equal  to  the  straw  skep  for 
this  purpose,  and  in  a  large  apiary  we  would  recommend  bee-keepers 
to  always  have  a  few  skei)s  for  early  swarms.  We  have  practised  this 
system  for  many  years  with  varying  results.  The  stocks  in  straw 
skeps  are  not  always  the  strongest  in  early  spring.  But  taking  one 
with  the  other  they  invariably  winter  well.  The  colony  in  a  warm 
frame  hive,  if  well  attended  to,  will  be  much  stronger  by  the  time  the 
honey  flow  comes  than  one  in  a  straw  skep  if  it  does  not  swarm.  If 
it  does,  then  allowance  must  be  made  for  the  old  stock,  swarm  and 
cast  as  the  case  may  be. 
A  hive  with  double  sides,  or  one  having  an  open-air  space  which 
may  be  filled  with  cork  dust,  may  be  depended  on  to  winter  bees 
successfully.  We  have  on  several  occasions  experimented  with  a  given 
number  of  hives,  some  of  which  had  an  inch  or  more  of  open  space 
round  the  hive.  In  the  others  this  space  was  filled  with  some  warm 
material  as  mentioned  above.  There  was  not  sufficient  difference, 
however,  the  following  spring  to  enable  it  to  be  said  that  one  was 
better  than  the  other. 
Again,  some  bee-keepers  will  have  the  majority  of  their  hives 
made  with  single  sides  without  any  packing  or  open-air  space.  Hives 
of  this  description  are  soon  affected  by  the  various  changes  in  the 
weather.  They,  no  doubt,  are  soon  warmed  by  the  sun  striking 
directly  on  them ;  the  extreme  cold,  how^ever,  will  affect  them  in  the 
opposite  direction.  They  are  very  hot  in  the  summer ;  but  this  may 
be  counteracted  by  shading  them  during  the  prevalence  of  bright  sun¬ 
shine.  We  have  some  extra  strong  colonies  in  hives  of  this  descrip¬ 
tion  at  the  present  tiine,  and  it  is  somewhat  difficult  to  say  which  are 
the  best. — An  English  Bee-keeper. 
