February  23,  1899, 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
155 
growing  period  give  ample  heat,  and  syringe  freely  when  required,  and 
the  pots  should  be  half  plunged  in  a  hotbed.  Straggling  shoots  must  be 
stopped  to  give  two  or  three  shoots  instead  of  one.  This  treatment  should 
continue  until  September,  with  a  little  shade  from  bright  sun.  The  pots 
ought  then  to  be  placed  nearer  the  glass,  and  in  full  light,  syringing  being 
resorted  to  at  times,  but  must  be  gradually  discontinued,  and  water  at  the 
roots  also  lessened,  though  never  so  as  to  cause  the  plants  to  droop. 
The  object  of  this  is,  of  course,  to  ripen  the  shoots  formed.  With  the 
moisture  lessened  the  temperature  may  be  allowe  1  to  fall  to  G0°,  A  rest 
is  thus  given  in  the  dull  season. 
About  March  or  earlier  the  temperature  may  be  gradually  raised,  and 
the  pots  be  plunged  in  a  sweet  hotbed,  with  openings  below  to  insure 
drainage.  Water  at  the  roots  will  be  more  needed,  and  the  syringe  should 
be  used  before  the  flower  trusses  show,  when  a  drier  and  cooler  atmo¬ 
sphere  should  be  given  to  preserve  the  blooms.  Under  the  foregoing 
treatment  Ixoras  have  done  splendidly,  and  have  fully  repaid  all  the 
attention  given  during  the  growing  and  ripening  period. — Interested. 
W^K.FOi^.'raEWEEK.. 
FRUIT  FORCING. 
Cucumbers. — The  plants  raised  from  seed  sown  at  the  new  year  and 
transferred  to  the  ridges  or  hillocks  in  the  Cucumber  house  need  not  be 
stopped  until  they  have  extended  two-thirds  up  the  trellis.  Train  the 
laterals  about  1  foot  distance  apart,  and  do  not  stop  them  until  they  have 
extended  about  two-thirds  across  their  allotted  space  sideways.  A 
vigorous  growth  is  thus  secured,  and  the  plants  will  crop  much  better  and 
longer  than  those  which  are  pinched  from  near  the  bottom  of  the  trellis 
with  a  view  to  early  fruit.  If  the  latter  practice  is  followed  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  overcrop  the  plants,  or  the  growth  will  be  stunted,  and  not 
enough  made  for  a  successional  and  regular  supply  of  fruit. 
Winter  Fiuiterg. — As  the  light  and  sun  heat  tell  advantageously  a 
greater  supply  of  atmospheric  moisture  is  needed,  keeping  the  evapo¬ 
ration  troughs  charged  with  liquid  manure,  or  sprinkle  the  paths  occasion¬ 
ally  with  it  at  closing  time,  damping  with  water  in  the  morning  and  early 
afternoon.  Supply  top  dressings  of  fresh  lumpy  loam  at  fortnightly  or 
three  weeks’  intervals,  and  sprinkle  on  each  square  yard  a  handful  of  a 
mixture  of  bone  superphosphate  and  soot  in  equal  parts  by  measure. 
Thin  the  fruits  well,  remove  superfluous  growths,  bad  leaves,  tendrils,  and 
male  blossoms,  stopping  the  shoots  one  joint  beyond  the  fruit,  avoiding 
overcrowding.  Maintain  a  night  tempersture  of  65°,  70°  to  75°  by  day, 
advancing  to  80°,  85°,  or  90°  from  sun,  and  closing  early  so  as  to  run  up 
early  in  the  afternoon  to  95°  or  100°. 
Vines. — Early  Forced  in  Pots — The  Vines  started  early  in  November, 
and  being  strong  well-ripened  canes,  have,  under  proper  management,  the 
Grapes  in  an  advanced  state,  and  soon  will  be  taking  the  last  swelling. 
This  occurs  with  the  colouring,  when  they  swell  more  than  at  any  other 
stage,  therefore  supply  fresh  top-dressings  of  turfy  loam  or  lumpy 
well-decayed  manure,  with  a  sprinkling  every  ten  days  or  fortnight  of 
superphosphate  three  parts  and  one  part  powdered  saltpetre,  mixed. 
This  not  only  feeds  but  encourages  root  action,  and  the  roots  absorb 
liquid  manure,  which  should  be  supplied  warm,  copiously  and  not  too 
strong.  Maintain  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  by  damping  the 
paths  and  walks  two  or  three  times  a  day%  especially  at  closing  time, 
which  should  be  sufficiently  early  to  run  up  the  temperature  to  85°  or  90°. 
Stopping,  Tying,  and  Eegulating  Shoots. — The  growth  in  houses  started 
a  few  weeks  ago  will  be  sufficiently  forward  for  disbudding,  but  not 
attempting  it  before  the  best  breaks  can  be  discerned.  The  operation 
should  be  performed  gradually,  removing  the  weakest  and  worst  placed 
first,  and  ultimately  leaving  no  more  growths  than  there  is  space  for  the 
full  exposure  of  the  foliage  to  light,  always  retaining  the  most  promising 
for  fruit.  Stopping  should  take  place  at  one  joint  beyond  the  bunch 
where  the  space  is  limited,  but  two  joints  ought  to  be  left  where  there  is 
room  for  lateral  extension.  Tie  the  growths  before  they  touch  the  glass, 
bringing  them  down  carefully,  as  they  are  liable  to  break.  Allow  suffi¬ 
cient  room  in  the  ligature  for  the  swelling  of  the  shoots,  and  loosen  all 
those  that  are  too  tight. 
Vines  in  Flower. — Cease  syringing,  yet  avoid  a  very  arid  atmosphere, 
and  prevent  condensation  of  moisture  by  a  little  ventilation  constantly 
without  causing  a  draught.  Temperature  60°  to  65°  at  night,  70°  to  75° 
by  day  artificially.  Carefully  fertilise  shy-setting  varieties,  brushing  the 
bunches  lightly'  with  a  cameTs-hair  brush,  and  then  follow  with  some 
charged  with  pollen  collected  from  free-setting  sorts,  such  as  Black 
Ilamburghs.  Fertilisation  is  imperative  in  the  case  of  Muscats,  attending 
to  it  on  a  fine  day  after  the  house  has  been  ventilated  a  short  time,  and 
always  when  the  “caps”  part  easily  from  the  tips  of  the  flowers,  as 
then  the  stigmas  are  ready  to  receive  the  pollen. 
Thinning  Grapes. — Never  allow  this  work  to  get  into  arrear,  but  thin 
free-setting  varieties  as  soon  as  they  are  fairly  out  of  flower,  taking  out 
the  smallest  berries  first,  and  then  going  over  the  bunches  again,  so  as  to 
leave  only  sufficient  berries  to  form  a  compact  bunch,  each  berry  being 
allowed  space  to  swell  to  its  full  size  without  wedging  or  losing  its  natural 
form.  This  requires  the  exercise  of  a  little  judgment,  and  can  only  be 
acquired  by  experience.  Muscats  and  all  shy-setting  varieties  should  not 
be  thinned  untiT  the  properly  fertilised  berries  can  be  distinguished,  as 
they  may  by  their  taking  the  lead  in  swelling,  whilst  the  unfertilised 
remain  almost  stationary’. 
Feeding. — After  setting  and  thinning  the  Grapes  swell  fast,  and  should 
be  accelerated  by  judicious  applications  of  liquid  manure,  encouraging 
surface  roots  by  light  mulchings  of  lumpy  manure,  such  as  sw’eetened 
horse  droppings,  and  sprinkling  on  each  square  yard  a  small  handful  of 
the  mixture  advised  for  Vines  in  pots.  Attend  to  watering  as  required, 
not  having  stated  times,  but  always  make  an  examination  of  the  border, 
and  supply  tepid  water  whenever  necessary,  but  then  only,  and  always 
sufficient  to  moisten  the  soil  down  to  the  drainage.  Overwatering  is 
even  worse  than  too  little,  as  it  makes  the  soil  sodden  and  sour,  and 
shanking  follows.  Maintain  a  genial  condition  of  the  atmosphere  by 
damping  the  floor  and  border  in  the  morning,  at  closing  time,  and  in  the 
evening.  Make  the  most  of  tun  heat  by  early’  closing,  running  up  to  85° 
or  90°,  and  this  will  maintain  a  good  temperature  into  the  night,  when  it 
should  gradually  fall  to  the  minimum  temperature  of  60°  to  65°,  Admit 
air  in  the  morning  before  the  sun  has  raised  the  temperature  more  than  5° 
to  10°.  This  should  be  done  without  lowering  the  temperature,  and  the 
Vines  will  be  saved  from  scorching. 
THE  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 
Cropping  the  Ground. — -The  rainfall  has  been  exceptionally  heavy’,  and 
when  a  change  takes  place  the  ground  in  many  instances  will  be  found 
slow  in  arriving  at  a  suitable  condition  for  cropping.  Once  more,  then, 
the  advice  not  to  be  in  too  great  a  hurry  in  sowing  seeds  and  planting 
other  crops  is  the  best  that,  under  the  circumstances,  can  be  given. 
Especially  is  this  the  case  with  cold  clayey  soils,  and  those  who  have  to 
deal  with  these  ought  to  forward  Peas,  Beans,  Cauliflowers  and  Lettuces, 
by  sowing  under  glass,  planting  out  in  due  course. 
Cauliflowers. — Good  late  Broccoli  is  none  too  plentiful,  and  if  the  mild 
weather  continues  the  supply  will  not  hold  out  so  late  as  usual.  This 
being  so  there  is  all  the  more  necessity  to  take  extra  care  of  autumn- 
raised  Cauliflower  plants.  These  transplant  better  out  of  4-inch  pots 
than  they  do  from  boxes,  and  a  little  time  will  be  gained  by  establishing 
in  these  pots  in  gentle  heat  under  glass,  taking  care  to  harden  them 
before  they  become  badly  root-bound,  planting  in  hand-lights  across  the 
garden  or  in  a  rough  deep  frame  over  a  bed  of  soil  and  manure.  They 
will  not  bear  forcing,  and  must  not  be  unduly  coddled.  If  seed  of  the 
small  early’  sorts  are  sow  n  now  in  gentle  heat  they  will  germinate  quickly, 
after  which  shelves  near  the  glass  in  a  cooler  house  or  pit  is  the  best 
place  for  the  plants.  When  they  have  formed  a  rough  leaf,  pot  singly’  or 
in  pairs,  and  treat  as  advised  in  the  case  of  the  autumn-raised,  only  in 
this  case  a  portion  of  the  plants  may  be  planted  on  a  warm  border  and  the 
rest  in  the  open. 
Lettuce. — A  few  or  many  plants  of  early  and  second  early  Cabbage 
and  Cos  varieties  of  Lettuce,  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  pans  or  boxes 
under  glass  now,  should  prove  of  service  in  keeping  up  the  supply  of 
salad,  .  Avoid  sowing  the  seed  thickly,  and  raise  the  plants  in  gentle 
heat.  Harden  early,  and  prick  out  in  sheltered  nursery  beds,  where  a 
portion  of  the  plants  may  be  left  to  heart-in,  transplanting  the  rest  when 
large  enough  to  sunny  well-manured  borders. 
Garlic  and  Shallots. — Directly  the  ground  can  bo  got  into  a  suitable 
condition  roots  of  both  kinds  should  be  planted.  It  must  be  remembered 
that  single  divisions  (cloves)  will  grow  into  large  roots,  while  the  larger- 
sized  roots,  planted  whole,  will  split  up  during  the  growing  season. 
Press  them  into  well  prepared  firm  soil,  rather  more  than  half  burying 
them,  and  if  disposed  6  inches  apart,  in  rows  9  inches  to  12  inches  asunder, 
this  will  be  allowing  ample  space.  If  Parsley  is  raised  under  glass,  with 
a  view  to  having  early  gatherings  of  leaves,  this  may  eventually  be 
dibbled  out  midway  between  the  Garlic  and  •  Shallots,  in  which  case  the 
rows  of  the  two  latter  should  be  fully  12  inches  apart. 
Seakale  Propagation. — Where  young  roots  are  lifted  and  forced  a  fresh 
stock  of  plants  has  to  be  raised  every  season,  and  early’  propagation 
means  a  good  start  towards  obtaining  the  desirable  strong  roots.  When 
the  roots  are  lifted  for  forcing  all  the  stronger  thongs  unavoidably  or 
purposely  snapped  off  should  be  saved,  and  stored  in  moist  soil  or  sand. 
These  may  be  cut  into  3  inch  or  4-inch  lengths,  marking  the  smaller  end, 
which  is  to  be  the  rooting  end,  by  slicing  a  small  piece  off  it.  Store  the 
cuttings  thickly  to  their  full  depth  in  boxes  of  fine  soil  or  common  sand, 
and  arrange  them  in  cool  house,  frame,  or  shed  for  the  present.  By  the 
time  they  have  formed  a  few  roots  and  commenced  top  growth  the  ground 
ought  to  be  ready  for  their  reception,  and  planting-out  take  place. 
The  Mushroom  House. — Mushrooms  are  impatient  of  much  fire  heat, 
and  whenever  the  weather  is  mild  it  should  be  dispensed  with  as  much  as 
possible.  A  temperature  of  55°  answers  well,  and  a  newly  formed  bed  will 
often  serve  to  keep  up  sufficient  warmth.  Beds  that  did  not  start  pro¬ 
ducing  before  midwinter  or  as  soon  as  expected,  may  yet  do  good  service. 
Examine  them,  and  if  found  cold  and  damp  with  few  or  no  traces  of  the 
spawn  having  run,  they  may  well  be  broken  up,  and  their  room  devoted 
to  fresh  beds  ;  but  if  dry  and  apparently  overrun  by  a  white  mould,  the 
chances  are  a  good  crop  of  ^Mushrooms  may  y  et  be  forthcoming. 
Apply  enough  tepid  water  through  a  rose  to  well  moisten  the  soil  and 
manure,  more  than  one  application  being  necessary  to  accomplish  this, 
afterwards  covering  the  bed  with  6  inches  of  stained  straw  or  litter. 
Watering  with  tepid  water  impregnated  with  salt  will  sometimes 
put  new  life  into  an  apparently  exhausted  bed,  especially  if  this  can  be 
supplemented  with  the  heat  from  a  fresh  bed  formed  below'. 
