186 
supplement  to 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
March  9,  1899. 
BEST  POSITIONS  FOR  TOMATOES. 
There  arc  not  any  f-igns  of  decrease  in  the  raf;e  for  Tomatoes  ; 
on  the  contrary,  the  evidence  is  all  in  favour  of  the  presumption 
that  this  season  they  will  be  in  greater  demand  than  ever.  Market 
growers  utilise  the  whole  of  the  bodv  of  their  houses,  planting 
transversely  in  well  prepared  borders.  Some  allow  much  more  space 
than  others,  and  after  trying  various  distances,  the  conclusion  arrived 
at  is  that  an  equal  weight  of  superior  fruit  is  obtained  at  a  less  outlay 
in  labour  and  material  by  allowing  ample  space.  I  would  advise 
owners  in  charge  of  small  houses  to  crop  differently,  as  they  will 
secure  heavier,  earlier,  and  more  saleable  crops,  if  they  utilise  the 
roofs  more  and  the  body  of  the  structures  less. 
Fresh  soil  is  of  the  greatest  assistance  to  the  Tomato  grower,  and 
this  is  not  often  available  in  sufficient  quantities  to  admit  of  a  whole 
border  being  changed,  but  must  be  found  when  narrow  beds  along 
the  fronts  of  houses  only  are  provided  tor  the  plants  to  root  in.  In 
the  case  of  houses  with  glazed  fronts  the  ridges  of  soil  may  be  formed 
on  the  floors,  but  the  plants  naturally  make  the  best  progress  and 
produce  the  earliest  crops  when  the  soil  is  placed  on  slate-covered 
stagings  over  hot-water  pipes,  with,  perhaps,  a  top-heat  pipe  just 
above  the  soil.  A  ridge  2  feet  wide  and  1  foot  in  depth  of  sound 
loamy  soil  is  ample,  but  under  and  in  front  of  this  there  may  advan¬ 
tageously  be  2  inches  of  ashes,  made  firm  by  having  had  pot  plants 
on  previously.  Tomato  roots  revel  in  ashes,  jrrovided  these  are  ke|it 
moist. 
Most  gardeners  who  have  visited  Mr.  H.  J.  Jones  of  Lewisham 
during  the  summer  will  have  observed  tliat  he  can  grow  Tomatoes 
equally  as  well  as  Chrysanthemums.  The  bulk  of  the  plants  are 
trained  up  tlie  roofs  of  small  span-roofed  houses,  Avhere  they  crop 
grandly.  Mr.  Jones  is  apt  to  draw  attention  to  the  small  quantity 
of  soil  his  plants  are  rooted  in,  but  under  pressure  will  admit  that 
the  ashes  in  front  are  crowded  with  roots,  where  they  get  the  benefit 
of  liquid  manure  from  the  soil,  as  well  as  occasional  dressings  ot  his 
own  special  mixture.  It  is  only  right  to  add  that  the  varieties 
cultivated  at  Hither  Green  are  among  the  heaviest  cr  'pi  ers  that  can 
be  named.  The  Cropper — an  improved  Ham  Green  Favourite — and 
the  Champion,  obtained  by  crossing  the  Cropper  with  selected 
Perfection — are  both  grand,  and  this  I  say  after  having  had  personal 
experience  with  them. 
In  many  instances  boxes  or  pots  might  well  be  substituted  for  a 
ridge  of  soil,  and  I  prefer  the  first  named  wheu  the  position  is  much 
exposed  to  the  sun  or  hot-water  pipes,  with  no  soil  or  ashes  underneath 
for  the  roots  to  spread  into.  We  frequently  hear  of  the  great  weight 
of  fruit  produced  by  pot  plants  ;  but  we  cannot  afford  to  be  top¬ 
dressing,  manuring,  and  watering  all  day  long,  and  I  invariably 
arrange  my  plants  in  pots,  these  running  into  thousands,  where  they 
can  root  out  into  either  ashes  or  soil.  No  matter  how  well  plants 
in  10-inch  to  12-inch  pots  are  attended  to,  there  is  always  an 
improvement  noticeable  in  their  growth  directly  the  roots  reach  the 
soil  or  ashes  underneath.  For  roof  culture  the  plants  should  be 
disposed  15  inches  apart  and  confined  to  a  single  stem,  nothing,  as 
previously  intimated,  being  gained,  while  much  may  he  lost  by 
■crowding. 
Shady  positions  do  not  suit  Tomatoes,  crops  failing  to  set  on 
plants  that  do  not  get  a  fair  amount  of  light  and  sun.  It  is 
useless,  therefore,  to  attempt  their  culture  in  well  furnished  vineries 
or  Peach  houses.  For  the  first  two,  or  three  seasons  at  the  most, 
after  planting  the  Vines  or  trees  it  is  possible  to  grow  Tomatoes 
profitably  in  these  positions,  and  if  there  is  not  any  undue  crowding 
of  top  growth,  or  neglect  to  keep  the  borders  will  moistened,  no 
harm  should  result  to  tlie  permanent  crops  from  their  association  with 
Tomatoes.  In  these  instances  pot  culture  is  desirable,  standing  the 
pots  across  the  houses,  midway  between  the  rafters  devoted  to  the 
growing  Vines  and  in  the  spaces  between  and  under  the  roof  not 
occupied  by  Peach  and  Nectarine  trees.  I  have  also  seen  excellent 
crops  taken  from  plants  rooting  in  boxes  disposed  on  the  high  back 
shelves  of  vineries  and  trained  dowm  the  blank  spices  between 
advancing  Vines.  Pots  would  not  do  in  such  positions,  as  tlwy  part 
with  moisture  too  rapidly,  whereas  wood  is  n on-conductive. 
Amateurs  who  grow  a  few  Tomatoes  more  or  less  successfully 
among  their  greenhouse  plants  will  do  well  to  remember  that  an 
ordinary  herring  box,  costing  one  penny,  will  be  much  better  for  a 
single  plant  than  a  pot  for  which  they  have  to  pay  fourpence.  They 
ought  also  to  avoid  the  varieties  more  noted  for  the  size  and  hand¬ 
some  appearance  of  their  fruit  than  for  other  good  qualities.  What 
they  want  in  their  small  houses  are  sturdy  growing,  free  setting, 
early  ripening  sorts,  among  which  I  would  include  Early  Ruby  and 
the  comparatively  new  Comet.  If  they  require  a  few  handsome 
truits  for  exhibition  purposes  a  trial  should  be  given  Duke  of  York. 
I  have  noticed  that  many  amateurs  have  small  glazed  sheds  for 
potting  and  other  purposes  :  the  roofs  of  these  should  be  covered  with 
Tomato  plants  every  surnm^'r,  as  they  succeed  fairly  well  in  such 
positions. — W.  Igguldkn. 
SPRING  PLANTING. 
Differences  of  opinion  undoubtedly  exist  regarding  the  respectiv<‘ 
advantages  of  autumn  and  spring  planting  for  fruit  trees.  The 
advocates  of  each  method  advance  their  special  reasons,  and  as  the-e 
are  generally  founded  on  personal  experience  they  are  worthy  of  than 
attention  and  respect  that  should  always  be  accorded  to  the  observa¬ 
tions  of  a  practical  man.  Much  can  be  urged  in  favour  of  autumn 
planting,  and  the  most  important  of  the  arguments  on  that  side  relate 
to  the  expediency  of  the  practice.  Obviously,  where  there  is  a  large 
Fig.  40. — The  Rev.  H.  Hony-wood  D’Ombrain. 
extent  of  land  to  be  planted,  the  earlier  the  work  is  commenced  the 
better  chance  there  is,  in  our  uncertain  climate,  of  having  it  completed 
in  due  time. 
In  reference  to  this,  however,  it  may  be  said  th  it  where  land  has 
been  propeily  jirepared  in  advance  the  actual  operation  of  planting 
need  not  be  a  very  prolonged  one,  if  an  adequate  amount  of  labour  is 
available.  Again,  it  is  correctly  said  that  planters  who  make  their 
selections  early  in  the  season  at  the  nurseries  secure  the  best  trees, 
and  later  purchasers  have  to  be  content  with  the  leavings.  There  is 
something  in  this,  perhaps,  in  certain  cases,  where  the  stock  of 
particular  varieties  may  be  short,  but  as  a  matter  of  fact  comparatively 
few  growers  do  select  their  own  trees,  and  the  nurserymen  very 
properly,  in  their  own  interests  and  those  of  subsequent  customers, 
usually  contrive  to  equalise  their  orders  in  a  very  fair  way.  There  is 
another  jioint  in  reference  to  this — namely,  at  whatever  time  planting 
is  to  be  done,  the  selection  can  still  be  made  in  the  autumn,  and  the 
trees  will  continue  in  as  good  condition  for  planting  as  if  in  the 
nursery  quarters,  provided  they  are  carefully  laid  in  trenches,  the 
roots  well  covered  with  soil,  in  a  position  where  rain  cannot 
accumulate. 
\Vhat  may  be  termed  the  theoretical  aspect  of  the  question  is 
briefly  summed  up  as  lolljws.  It  is  contended  that  autumn  planting 
allows  a  longer  period  for  the  trees  to  recover  from  the  check  and 
unavoidable  injuries  caused  by  removal.  Further,  that  being  in  a 
state  of  rest  they  suffer  less  real  damage  at  the  time.  There  seems  to 
be  much  reason  in  favour  of  these  opinions,  but  are  they  supported  by 
facts  ?  Can  any  deflnite  evidence  be  produced  to  prove  that  the 
results  are  precisely  what  they  are  expected  to  be  ?  In  my  own 
experience  I  have  had  occasion  to  lift  and  examine  trees  planted 
at  all  times,  and  so  far  as  appearance  goes  I  have  rarely  been  able 
to  detect  any  improvement  in  the  condition  of  the  roots  of  autumn 
planted  trees  as  compared  with  those  removed  at  a  much  later  period. 
