200 
SUPPLEMENT  TO 
March  9,  1899. 
JOURNAL  OF  HORTICULTURE  AND  COTTAGE  GARDENER. 
CULTIVATION  OF  CELERY. 
Sweet  and  nutty  Celery  is  regarded  as  indispensable  in  the 
majority  of  gardens.  The  season  for  its  use  extends  from  September  to 
April,  but  if  the  demand  is  great,  or  the  culture  of  the  crop  not  carried 
out  in  the  best  manner,  the  supply  usually  runs  out  at  Christmas  or 
soon  alter.  On  strong  retentive  soils  Celery  is  liable  to  decay,  hence 
when  grown  on  ground  of  this  character  protection  must  be  afforded 
the  plants  from  excessive  damp  and  frost,  especially  that  intended  for 
late  supplies.  This  can  be  done  by  nailing  together  two  boards  at 
right  angles,  forming  a  V-shaped  cap  or  protector,  which  can  be 
readily  placed  on  or  taken  off  as  necessary.  Temporary  protection  is 
afforded  by  a  light  covering  of  dry  litter  or  bracken.  If  this  remain 
on  for  long  in  wet  weather  it  will  do  harm. 
Seeds  for  furnishing  plants  for  the  main  crop  must  be  sown  in 
March  or  at  an  early  date.  It  is  best  to  sow  on  the  broad  surface 
afforded  by  a  pan  or  box,  so  that  the  seed  may  be  distributed  thinly 
and  seedlings  raised  of  a  sturdy  character,  these  being  more  easily 
handled  when  the  time  for  pricking  off  arrives.  Drain  the  bottom  of 
the  jian  or  box  well  with  crocks,  and  put  over  that  the  rougher  parts 
of  the  compost.  Then  fill  with  a  ccmpcst  of  rich  fine  soil  mainly 
consisting  of  loam,  manure,  leaf  soil,  and  sand.  Make  the  surface  fine 
and  level,  and  give  a  good  watering  with  hot  water  through  a  fine  rose. 
When  the  soil  is  thoroughly  drained  sow  the  seeds  evenly  anil 
moderately  thinly,  dredging  a  layer  of  fine  soil  as  a  covering.  The 
best  position  for  the  seed  pan  or  box  is  in  a  temperature  of  58°  to  60°, 
or  on  a  mild  hotbed  in  a  frame.  Cover  the  soil  with  a  pane  of  glass 
and  paper  to  prevent  rapid  evaporation  and  consequent  drying  of 
the  soil. 
Celery  takes  two  or  three  weeks  to  germinate,  hence  it  is 
important  to  maintain  the  soil  in  a  uniform  condition  of  moisture. 
Should  the  surface  soil  become  dry  it  may  be  moistened  by  dewing  it 
over  with  the  syringe  in  preference  to  heavier  watering  with  the  rose. 
After  germination  the  seedlings  require  warmth,  moisture,  and  light, 
and  when  well  established  a  light  airy  position  in  a  cool  structure. 
This  treatment  gives  them  a  good  opjportunity  to  attain  to  a  sturdy 
habit,  provided  the  sowing  has  been  carried  out  so  as  not  to  cause  an 
overcrowded  condition. 
The  importance  of  having  the  seedlings  as  strong  as  possible  at  the 
time  when  ready  for  pricking  out  is  apparent  when  handling  the 
small  plants.  The  stronger  are  better  furnished  wdth  roots,  and  the 
stems  do  not  bend  from  weakness.  The  seedlings  must  be  pricked  out 
in  rich  soil  on  a  spent  hotbed,  or  in  a  frame  with  a  layer  of  manure 
and  a  few  inches  of  soil.  Another  method  is  to  fill  boxes  4  inches 
<leep  with  good  soil  on  a  base  of  decayed  manure  as  drairage.  Place 
the  seedlings  about  4  inches  apart.  Stand  the  boxes  in  a  frame  close 
to  the  glass,  keeping  the  lights  closed  for  a  time  until  fresh  growth  is 
made.  The  same  treatment  must  also  be  accorded  the  plants  pricked 
out  in  a  frame  or  hotbed.  Heavy  waterings  will  not  be  needed,  but 
slight  sprinklings  with  a  syringe  or  fine  rose  in  the  afternoon  are  of 
the  utmost  benefit.  Afford  air  gradually  in  increasing  ijuantity  as 
the  plants  advance  in  size.  During  mild  warm  weather  the  lights 
may  be  drawn  off,  and  fully  expose  for  some  time  in  May  to  harden 
for  final  planting  early  in  June. 
The  trenches  in  which  Celery  is  to  be  planted  may  be  of  a  width 
to  hold  either  a  double  or  a  single  row  of  plants.  For  a  double  row 
cut  the  trenches  15  inches  wide,  and  for  a  single  row  12  inches.  A 
good  spit  in  depth  is  all  that  is  required.  Cut  out  the  trenches 
straight,  and  place  the  soil  removed  smoothly  on  each  side.  In  each 
trench  place  6  inches  depth  of  good  decomjrosed  manure,  and  mix  well 
with  the  loose  soil  in  the  trench.  This  may  be  done  a  few  weeks 
before  planting,  so  that  there  is  no  delay  when  the  plants  are  ready 
for  transferring. 
Dull  weather  just  before  rain  is  the  best  time  to  plant,  and  the 
soil  in  which  the  plants  are  grorving  should  be  moist  in  condition. 
The  plants  from  boxes  will  lift  out  with  balls  of  roots  permeating  the 
manure,  and  their  removal  causes  little  or  no  check.  From  the  frames, 
too,  the  plants  may  be  readilj’-  removed,  but  it  is  not  desirable  that 
they  should  be  pricked  out  on  a  deep  bed  of  manure,  or  the  plants, 
if  left  too  long,  will  become  rank. 
Water  after  planting  to  settle  the  soil  about  the  roots,  and  should 
dry  weather  continue  free  supplies  must  be  afforded  until  rain  comes. 
Ilemove  weeds  from  the  trench,  and  sucker-like  growths  from  the 
base  of  the  plants  as  these  appear.  Abundance  of  water  will  be 
required  as  the  plants  grow.  The  soil  may  be  loosened  occasionally, 
and  after  the  first  trimming  away  of  suckers  chop  down  the  soil  on 
each  side  the  trench,  levelling  it  round  the  plants.  This  is  preliminary 
10  earthing,  which  should  not  be  commenced  before  growth  has 
brought  the  plants  to  a  good  size.  Several  earthings  are  better  than 
placing  the  soil  round  all  at  once.  The  soil  must  bo  kept  out  of  the 
hearts  of  the  plants  either  by  a  tie  of  matting  round  the  leaves,  or 
holding  «thtm  closely  together  with  the  hand.  Two  persons  can  do- 
this  better  than  one.  The  final  earthing  may  be  carried  out  to  within 
8  inches  of  the  tops  of  the  plants,  comideting  it  about  six  weeks  before 
w'anted  for  use  — E.  D.  Smith. 
NOTES  ON  RASPBERRIES. 
The  time  has  arrived  when  the  final  touches  must  be  put  oa¬ 
th  e  Raspberry  plantation,  if  they  are  not  already  accomplished.  The 
work  connected  with  the  winter  treatment  varies  in  accordance  with- 
that  bestowed  upon  the  plants  in  the  previous  summer  and  autumn. 
If  their  sucker  growths  were  reduced  to  a  quantity  sufficient  for 
supplying  the  requisite  number  of  canes  for  fruit-bearing  this  year,, 
and  the  old  bearing  wood  cut  out  in  the  autumn,  then  only  the 
shortening  of  the  fruiting  canes  remains  to  be  done,  so  far  as  pruning 
is  concerned.  There  is  no  gain,  however,  in  crowding,  so  that  if  there 
is  any  tendency  in  that  direction  it  may  be  rectified  as  the  course  of 
tying  proceeds.  Some  still  use  stakes  for  supports,  but  the  advantages 
of  wire  trellises  are  so  many,  that  where  it  is  practicable  I  would 
advise  their  early  adoption.  Two  strands  of  wire  will  do,  but  three 
make  neater  rows. 
The  winter,  so  far,  has  been  very  favourable  for  Raspberries;  in 
severe  ones  much  damage  occurs  to  the  unripened  tips  and  the  buds, 
many  of  which  fail  to  start.  This  happens,  perhaps,  more  on  heavy 
soil  than  that  of  a  lighter  character,  and  particularly  where  the  ground 
is  not  sufficiently  drained.  Under  no  circumstances  is  it  advisable  to 
shorten  back  the  canes  until  February  is  well  advanced;  pruning 
encourages  water  to  gather  in  the  pith,  which,  if  frosts  follow,  causes 
much  damage.  When  tying  and  pruning  proceed  together,  it  is 
easy  to  adapt  one  to  the  other.  In  some  seasons  it  has  been  observed 
that  unshortened  canes  brought  to  perfection  the  best  crop.  This 
points  to  the  fact  that  the  growth  must  be  well  ripened  throughout, 
and  this  condition  certainly  ought  to  be  in  evidence  after  such  a 
tropical  summer  as  the  past  one  proved  to  be.  I  have  seen  some 
gardeners  bending  down  the  points  of  the  canes  and  tying  them 
thickly  to  the  top  wire  of  the  trellis,  but  Avhether  an  extension  of 
crop  justified  the  practice,  I  could  not  determine;  certainly  appearance 
did  not. 
Raspberries  being  surface  rooting,  deep  digging  among  them  is  fatal 
to  their  well  doing,  especially  if  the  following  summer  should  be  a  dry 
one.  If  seedling  weeds  are  numerous  in  the  autumn  through  adverse 
weather,  they  may  be  skimmed  off  with  the  spade  sufficiently  deep  to 
lightly  bury  them,  and  with  a  fairly  heavy  dressing  of  manure  put 
on  early  become  in  time  entirely  suffocated,  and  instead  ot  being  an 
eyesore  are  by  digging  converted  into  plant  food.  Early  attention  to 
the  Raspberry  quarter  allows  of  fresh  strawy  manure  being  used  to 
advantage.  Its  soluble  properties  are  carried  downwards  by  the  winter’s 
rain,  the  slow  decay  of  the  insoluble  matter  provides  food  for  roots  in 
summer,  and  the  straw  makes  the  work  of  pruning  and  training  easy 
and  cleanly  to  the  feet,  advantages  that  cannot  be  other  than  beneficial 
to  those  who  have  the  work  to  do,  and  the  prospective  crop  as  well. 
The  wet  winter  has  very  much  hindered  the  work  of  planting, 
but  the  plants  being  early  in  their  growth  and  root,  there  would  be  yet 
time  to  put  this  into  practice  in  extreme  cases.  I  should  not  in  the 
least  hesitate  to  remove  plants  at  home,  or  purchase  from  a  local 
nursery,  but  from  a  distance  it  would  be  perhaps  better  to  defer 
planting  until  the  autumn.  The  advice  has  been  oft  repeated,  but 
the  mistake  is  still  made  of  leaving  newly  planted  canes  unshortened 
or  only  lightly  pruned.  No  greater  error  can  be  imagined  in  Rasp¬ 
berry  growing.  The  better  practice  is  for  all  newly  planted  canes 
to  be  shortened  to  within  a  foot  of  the  soil,  which  will  be  the  means 
of  providing  a  strong  growth  that  will  fruit  next  year.  Mulching  ot 
new  plantations  is  decidedly  advantageous,  and  if  it  is  possible,  give 
water  when  the  weather  is  continuously  dry  and  summerlike. 
Unless  a  high  state  of  cultivation  is  practised,  or  the  ground 
proves  well  suited  to  the  Raspberry,  it  shows  signs  of  debility  after 
a  few  years,  and  the  crop  so  depreciates  that  despair  rather  than 
pleasure  becomes  the  ruling  passion.  In  most  gardens,  however,  it  is 
a  crop  for  which  there  is  a  demand  that  is  seldom  fully  met,  so  that 
its  removal  from  one  site  to  another  must  be  carried  on  piecemeal. 
Beds  infested  with  bindweed  or  couch  grass  can  only  be  cleaned  by 
drastic  measures,  the  best  of  which  is  by  planting  on  fresh  and  clean 
ground. 
Of  varieties  there  are  many,  but  the  best  of  all,  according  to  my 
experience,  is  Superlative,  and  those  who  do  not  number  this  among 
their  collection,  however  small  it  may  be,  lose  a  good  deal  of  pleasure 
as  well  as  prefit.  Baumforth’s  Seedling  is  my  next  favourite;  both 
give  berries  of  large  size,  the  first  named  in  particular,  and  it  is  also 
distinct  in  every  other  respect. — W.  STiiTjrTNELL. 
